Samsung HW-Q950T and HW-Q900T Soundbar - Review & Comments

@PrMinisterGR

thanks for the reply. I also think it might be an x900h eARC bug. I’ve considered swapping it for a CX but the girlfriend uses subtitles when watching movies, therefore, burn in is not a risk - it is guaranteed.

I agree that, in terms of sound quality, the hw-q950t is a beast.

I will tell you the truth. The cables were bended. And the reason they are bended is to hide them from view. i can give them a greater curve or pass them elsewhere but the setup is so clean it would be a shame to destroy.

Now are you telling me thay the HdMI cable supplied with the soundbar isnt good? They have these blocks on each extremity which I’ve never seen. I thought it was a good thing :S
Subtitles are not a problem for OLEDs, as far as I can tell at least. We always use them too. All streaming services allow you to have transparent subtitles with transparent backgrounds.

I don't want to push you in messing up your setup, just to pop another idea since I haven't seen "in the middle of playing" drop out reports.
Mine didn’t come with a hdmi cable. Should it have done?
Yes.
 

RG9400

Member
I've been following this thread, but just wanted to make sure I understand how this bar is behaving with the next gen consoles and say an LG CX. I tried to summarize what I understood to be the issues, but I apologize since I definitely was getting a bit confused.

1. Xbox Series X connected directly to the bar -- Are people indicating that sound seems to be working properly for all the various sound outputs, but there may be some issues passing through [email protected] with HDR on? If [email protected] is not needed, but I do want HDR/DV, this setup should work? I did notice others mentioning that there was some issue with rear speakers in non-ATMOS games/media with Atmos turned on, and this unfortunately sounds like an issue I had with the N950 and the Xbox One X. The Xbox would send an ATMOS container when set to bitstream Dolby Atmos, making the soundbar think no further processing was needed. However, for non-ATMOS content, the rear channels on Xbox were mapped to the *side* speakers of the soundbar, so the rears ended up being silent. If this is what is happening now, that means this issue is still not fixed, and it requires you to constantly toggle between sound modes.

2. XSX connected to CX, then eARC to bar - Seems there is some issue with audio delays, and people are not able to actually get the lossless version of audio. As such, since the CX would not passthrough DTS, I would prefer option 1 anyways, but I was confused since I was unable to clearly identify if people's troubles are mainly with this setup compared to option 1.

3. PS5 connected directly to the bar -- Bitstream DTS or Dolby would probably work normally, right? But same thing regarding video passthrough of [email protected] as the XSX. From what I understood, the bar would not handle the LPCM output, even when connected directly to the bar. This means we have to choose from one of the bitstream options which someone mentioned was lower quality compared to the LPCM output, is that an accurate assessment? Also, LPCM is probably going to be the codec of choice for their Tempest Engine I assume, so I guess this bar would not be able to handle future games that end up utilizing that whenever they come out (though not for at least another year).

4. PS5 connected to CX, then eARC to bar -- Seems this has pretty much the same issues as XSX in option 2

Basically, if I wanted to get a somewhat future-proof setup for next gen going, the CX + the Q950T is probably not the best bet, and I should wait for newer models?
 

gazza7474

Active Member
Maybe I overlooked it! Still have the box. Was it somewhere obvious if you can remember?
I think USA customers get a HDMI cable but certainly not British and I'm guessing not in Europe either
 

GatorChamp

Member
Please do explain to everyone here complaining about frequent audio drops, lack of compatibility with apple TV and consoles, and a terrible user interface why this thing is worth $1800. If you look at the reviews on other sites and youtube, you will see the consensus is that this product is another piece of Samsung garbage.
 

Chaybee1

Active Member
Please do explain to everyone here complaining about frequent audio drops, lack of compatibility with apple TV and consoles, and a terrible user interface why this thing is worth $1800. If you look at the reviews on other sites and youtube, you will see the consensus is that this product is another piece of Samsung garbage.
So you join a group to post about a product you hate. 🙄
 

antsims

Distinguished Member
Thanks for the reply

I have watched different movies which say there are in Dolby Atmos and on the Samsung 90T under the sound mode is locked, so think it’s coming through.

The display on top not lite up unless you press a button on the remote and the dis play then just shows bar sounds.

please help
As you play the movie, the top display will scroll Dolby Atmos, if its receiving it. But you have to be very quick! It’ll only scroll once across the tiny display on the top once for a split second. You can’t make it show it again. Make sure the Apple TV sound settings are also set to Dolby Atmos. Hope this helps?
 

GatorChamp

Member
So you join a group to post about a product you hate. 🙄
Yes! Believe it or not, forums are designed to share information and opinions. Based on the information in this thread, my opinion is that this product is garbage! A soundbar should not require babying, tweaking, resetting, and hovering above a tiny display to work properly. And based on the info on this very thread and around the rest of the internet, this product is defective out of the box.
 
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GatorChamp

Member
Please sell it asap then and get your 'tidy' profit.
Then leave this group to owners who actually test and tweak their setups for the better.
It's clear there are some people in denial here about the quality of this product. I understand how you may have spent alot of money on something and have to somehow justify that you made the right decision. But please don't try to deny that major flaws exist with the product that cannot be simply overlooked and ignored. Most of the people here have arrived looking for solutions to the same basic problems and have expressed tremendous frustration and regret with purchasing this product.

You may not realize it, but you and I have the exact same level of reason and rights to post here. What would be more valuable is posting about the problems one has, solutions, and what products do deliver expected basic functionality such as surround sound from a gaming console...
 
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Talkshowchris

Well-known Member
It's clear there are some people in denial here about the quality of this product. I understand how you may have spent alot of money on something and have to somehow justify that you made the right decision. But please don't try to pretend that major flaws exist with the products that cannot be simply overlooked and ignored. Most of the people here have arrived looking for solutions to the same basic problems and have expressed tremendous frustration and regret with purchasing this product.

You may not realize it, but you and I have the exact same level of reason and rights to post here. What I inevitably decide to do with my property and the length of time I spend here should not be a concern for you. What would be more valuable is posting about the problems one has, solutions, and what products do deliver expected basic functionality such as surround sound from a gaming console...
Surely your reason is to moan and complain, add the odd derogatory comment about existing owners from post-to-post?
I don't see that as the reason why other come to post here.
As far as rights go; you are entitled to your opinion, that much is true.
 
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Bwlmog

Active Member
Surely your reason is to moan and complain, add the odd derogatory comment about existing owners from post-to-post?
I don't see that as the reason why other come to post here.
As far as rights go; you are entitled to your opinion, that much is true. For what it's worth, I value the opinion of others on this group significantly more than yours.
.
 
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chrisnewell41

Standard Member
Mine didn’t come with a hdmi cable. Should it have done?
Mine also not with a hdmi cable but I did expect it based on reviews I had seen.

I also have to say the soundbar sounds great and the effect it gives in my room is exceptional.

Dolby atmos content from streaming platforms is absolutely amazing so I can’t imagine what uncompressed would sound like from a blu ray.

I have the q950 plugged into my Samsung q95t using eArc and I have qsymphony enabled (adaptive mode) and it does add extra to the front sound stage IMO, flicking between this mode and soundbar only you can tell it adds to the presence at the front.

my old Samsung soundbar was really buggy but to me this is much better. Only once have I had no sound at all when coming out of Dolby atmos content going back to tv content but turning things off and back on sorted that.

Just waiting for my 50% cash back to drop into my account which will certainly make this even more impressive😂
 
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outoftheknow

Moderator
Shame to see people joining the forum just to troll. I've done what I always do in such scenarios and that's to block them from me feed. Saves all the hassle really.
Mod comment

I’ve chosen this post but this is for all

All opinions are fine in these forums. (Edit - it is usually polite not to encourage people to buy or not buy based on your opinion)

If somebody is trolling report the post and a mod will consider it. Do not moderate posts yourself.

If you have an opposite opinion, the same posting rules apply.

Everybody play nice or warnings will be the result.
 
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Shurenuff

Standard Member
I've been following this thread, but just wanted to make sure I understand how this bar is behaving with the next gen consoles and say an LG CX. I tried to summarize what I understood to be the issues, but I apologize since I definitely was getting a bit confused.

1. Xbox Series X connected directly to the bar -- Are people indicating that sound seems to be working properly for all the various sound outputs, but there may be some issues passing through [email protected] with HDR on? If [email protected] is not needed, but I do want HDR/DV, this setup should work? I did notice others mentioning that there was some issue with rear speakers in non-ATMOS games/media with Atmos turned on, and this unfortunately sounds like an issue I had with the N950 and the Xbox One X. The Xbox would send an ATMOS container when set to bitstream Dolby Atmos, making the soundbar think no further processing was needed. However, for non-ATMOS content, the rear channels on Xbox were mapped to the *side* speakers of the soundbar, so the rears ended up being silent. If this is what is happening now, that means this issue is still not fixed, and it requires you to constantly toggle between sound modes.

2. XSX connected to CX, then eARC to bar - Seems there is some issue with audio delays, and people are not able to actually get the lossless version of audio. As such, since the CX would not passthrough DTS, I would prefer option 1 anyways, but I was confused since I was unable to clearly identify if people's troubles are mainly with this setup compared to option 1.

3. PS5 connected directly to the bar -- Bitstream DTS or Dolby would probably work normally, right? But same thing regarding video passthrough of [email protected] as the XSX. From what I understood, the bar would not handle the LPCM output, even when connected directly to the bar. This means we have to choose from one of the bitstream options which someone mentioned was lower quality compared to the LPCM output, is that an accurate assessment? Also, LPCM is probably going to be the codec of choice for their Tempest Engine I assume, so I guess this bar would not be able to handle future games that end up utilizing that whenever they come out (though not for at least another year).

4. PS5 connected to CX, then eARC to bar -- Seems this has pretty much the same issues as XSX in option 2

Basically, if I wanted to get a somewhat future-proof setup for next gen going, the CX + the Q950T is probably not the best bet, and I should wait for newer models?

I just got a 55” CX on a good deal and picked up the Q950T a few weeks ago on a great deal, so I’m holding out that the issues are addressed by Samsung via firmware eventually. This will be my gaming setup in the office. I plan to go with option 2 whenever I can get my hands on a PS5 for all the reasons you mentioned.

I do have a 55” C9 in the bedroom, worst case if they don’t fix the LPCM issues on the bar, I might swap TV’s so at least I can go direct to the TV for 4K 120fps and eARC, while still being able to utilize DTS.

What a headache. Why does it have to be this hard? It’s like these companies are doing these things to screw the consumer... it shouldn’t be this complicated.
 

D4RKSYD

Novice Member
I forgot I still followed this page, I was going to get this bar but polk had a hell of a deal on their signature series and went that route, but I just wanted to share my insite with the audio drops, as I know it can be frustrating. I had my series x connected to tv (samsung q90t), then TV to receiver via earc. I kept getting audio drops and loud pops. Went through so much troubleshooting, then I remembered people saying the q90t had issues with eArc sometimes. My receiver (yamaha rx-v6a) hasnt had the 4k/120 vrr update yet so that's why I wanted to go to the TV, since I use those features. Well I swapped things around and sent the xbox to the receiver and passed video to the TV. Lo and behold that fixed all my issues. Been like that for 2 days and not 1 problem. For laughs I swapped it back, within 10 minutes it popped and dropped. So if you are getting audio drops or issues it might be your tvs earc, atleast thats what it was for me. Good luck with the bar, it does sound insanely good
 
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CalPhil93

Member
I keep this updated with the best setting I have:


Samsung HW-Q950T System Setting:
TREBLE = 0
BASS = -3 (Doesn't affect rear speaker bass level)
CENTER LEVEL = +1
SIDE LEVEL = +1
WIDE LEVEL = +1
FRONT TOP LEVEL = +1
REAR LEVEL = +6
REAR TOP LEVEL = +6

SUBWOOFER = +2 to about +5 range with most music types and recordings

7-Band EQ (sets in Standard mode but applies EQ setting to all modes):
150 Hz = +5
300 Hz = +5
600 Hz = +3
1.2 kHz = +2
2.5 kHz = +3
5 kHz = +5
10 kHz = +5

Those Q950T system and EQ settings listed have not changed for about a month, I don't think they will change further from here.

But if you also use a PC with Q950T, then download and install the free app, "Equalizer APO" for Win10, and plug these settings into it. It produces incredible sound quality with music, games, streaming-TV, movies ... basically any audio that comes from a PC's HDMI out.
View attachment 1405950

I update the Equalizer APO about once a week (after some loud listening on a Friday) but the changes are now small fractions of a dB, it's close to the perfect full-range playback setting for this system, when you really crank the volume using a PC with music.
Truly, thank you so much for this! Switched to exclusively listening to music with my PC because these settings sound so bloody amazing!!

A quick question though.. when using PC as the sound source, do you keep the Smart Things 7-band EQ settings as default 0 across the board? Or do plug your recommended 7-band settings into the app as well and use them alongside the APO settings? Or does it simply not matter, with the APO settings taking precedence if PC is the source?

Appreciate you might not know, but your investigation so far has been nothing short of exceptional so figured I'd ask! Thank you so much once again!!
 

Bwlmog

Active Member
Is there anything similar to the APO Equalizer available for the Nvidia Shield, without rooting it? I don't have a PC to to use the APO and its not available on the Mac so only other option is via ATV (which instantly creates LPCM issues) or the Shield. Thanks in advance.
 

PlanetaryReference

Active Member
I wouldn't be able to tolerate all that crap though if it wasn't for the LG TV (where everything is connected).
I'm equally happy and problem free with it but have an LG ARC TV that won't pass Dolby Atmos at all, so XOX to bar, and PC to TV, all works great except the input switching with Atmos games. Which is a minor quirk that's not annoying me.

I am very interested in this, I have zero glitching with Virtual, what kind of dropouts do you get? I still can't decide if I want it on or off, sound-wise.
XOX direct to bar, started Mafia III (7.1 ... yes, I do love this game) and normally it gives zero audio issues but suddenly got intermittent sound as it started, plus in the game, and then the audio failed completely when I switched to TV and back to XOX, or out of the game to the XOX system, then back to game. The audio generally farted about then dropped out completely, so I had to reboot the Q950T to get the audio back. That happened twice.

It also caused the TV to drop its ARC link settings, plus to lose the TV's remote control of the Q950T's volume and on/off (why/how it did this I have no clue as the XOX is direct to the bar).

I gave up at this point and turned Virtual OFF, then all the messed up audio ended.

The difference is you're PC games to TV, I suppose.

The manual definitely should elaborate a bit on virtual setting, plus what can happen with it. I now suspect this may be a part of what 'Sonos-Guy' encountered as he tested it, but had the Virtual setting ON. I'd have noticed this in the first week if I'd had Virtual turned on. Because other than this (and the dodgy EQ not working with v1016) the Q950T has been almost entirely trouble free for me.

It's a pity as Virtual does work with stereo sources. If the upscaler only turned Virtual on when there's a 2-channel source detected, that would fix it - then I'd leave it on.
 

sc1lcq

Active Member
i don’t use games which seems to be when most get problems but for tv, film & music you can’t go wrong with this set up
 

PlanetaryReference

Active Member
... and consoles, and a terrible user interface why this thing is worth $1800.
When I bought it I paid $1,615 (lists at $1,949), and had a 60 day money back guarantee, so I took the low risk that I might buy a lemon and get stuck with it.

If you want to know why I kept it, listen to it with music, Atmos game, or DD+ movie, and you'll want one. Plus the fact that the negative criticisms were mostly nit-picking and being exaggerated (and even deliberately lied about by one video prolific Q950T 'reviewer', which was all a bit grubby and foolish).

My XOX console is compatible with it. The mode switching with Atmos has been nailed down (within this thread) to being due to HDR being ON or OFF on Xbox. When XOX HDR is set to off even that one minor mode-switching quirk that I experience is gone.

I agree the user display interface is not close to what it should be, but everything on the remote does work since the latest firmware update, and to be fair Samsung also updated the EQ settings text interface within the last update, so even that got some improvement.

I'd buy a Q950T again, I'd even pay the $1,895 for it if I had too, which is what it usually actually sells for here, it's only price v performance competitor is the LG bar ($1,699 here) but I simply wouldn't want the extra $200 to get it instead, but lose the sound quality. And I did seriously contemplate this prior to the last firmware update as the Q950T's EQ didn't even work then. So glad they fixed that, as that plus the speaker re-balancing on the bar has made all the difference to it.

But yeah, Samsung really needs to stop releasing sound bars too early, with such immature firmware.
 
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PlanetaryReference

Active Member
Truly, thank you so much for this! Switched to exclusively listening to music with my PC because these settings sound so bloody amazing!!

A quick question though.. when using PC as the sound source, do you keep the Smart Things 7-band EQ settings as default 0 across the board? Or do plug your recommended 7-band settings into the app as well and use them alongside the APO settings? Or does it simply not matter, with the APO settings taking precedence if PC is the source?

Appreciate you might not know, but your investigation so far has been nothing short of exceptional so figured I'd ask! Thank you so much once again!!
If you use it from the PC then use all of the settings on that APO settings image, leave none of them out.

Q950T - Equalizer APO Variable 31-Band EQ -  Dec 4th 2020.png


Once set leave it that way and just use the mode and volume buttons on the remote to control the PC's sound. I don't use the phone app at all.

Set the sub volume anywhere you like it with the remote.

Now all you have to do is turn it up.
 
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Bwlmog

Active Member
If you use it from the PC then use all of the settings on that APO settings image, leave none of them out.

Once set leave it that way and just use the mode and volume buttons on the remote to control the PC's sound. I don't use the phone app at all.
I'm guessing you can't use the APO to capture those settings and then lock them into the soundbar for non-PC use? If you could then I'd borrow a friend's laptop to get that set up properly.
 

PlanetaryReference

Active Member
I'm guessing you can't use the APO to capture those settings and then lock them into the soundbar for non-PC use? If you could then I'd borrow a friend's laptop to get that set up properly.
Not that I know of.

AVforums member 'narcospablos' told me about Equalizer APO, and posted a d/l link to it. I didn't know it existed prior to buying the Q950T (wish I had).

The same APO settings will work with a Windows laptop with APO installed on it and a HDMI video out to the TV's HDMI in, to use the TV as both an audio and video monitor for the laptop. Then out of the TV's ARC or eARC HDMI to the bar's ARC/eARC in.
 

spider_neil

Active Member
My soundbar keeps switching between HDMI 1 and 2.
My ATV4K is in HDMI 1 and my 4K blu-ray player is in HDMI 2.
But when I try and watch a blu ray the soundbar keeps switching back to HDMI 1. Can I turn this feature off it really annoying? I don't want to have to plug out my ATV4K everytime I want to watch a blu-ray.
 

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