Samsung HW-Q90R Soundbar Review & Comments

Masterstroke

Active Member
I can set the Samsung to WIFI with the app or the fysical buttons but it does not show up in any of my Apple gadgets after that so cannot stream to it through WIFI.
Yeah, I have the same problem, my 2 Macs, iPhone & iPad will not recognise the sound-bar unless I use bluetooth to stream directly, but as for streaming via Wi-Fi over a LAN it's a no-no.
 

skingg

Standard Member
Yeah, I have the same problem, my 2 Macs, iPhone & iPad will not recognise the sound-bar unless I use bluetooth to stream directly, but as for streaming via Wi-Fi over a LAN it's a no-no.
Do you have any latency issues when streaming via bluetooth to the bar?
 

Punch

Standard Member
Just picked up mine amazing sound next level well worth the money no lip sync issues using sky so hopefully it continues. I compared it to my Sonos play bar and play ones and no competition at all but still enjoyed them before I switched to the Q90R.
 

daibaron

Active Member
I previously had the HW-N950 and i was happy with it but i sold it to get the new HW-Q950T 9.1.4.
The HW-Q950T was quite a disappointment. (you can read my review and comments on another thread).
I finally decided to get the HW-Q90R which at this time is not heavily discounted and sold at the same price point as the HW-Q950T.
Everything is now working well for me.
Q90R Compared to the Q950T:
The build quality is great
The sound quality is the same
Has LPCM 7.1 and DLNA/UpnP
 

Punch

Standard Member
Yes definitely better I checked before buying and even the Samsung rep said that Q90R overall was better. The only thing is I have a KS8000 and I want to be able to switch off the TV with the sound bar at the same time without using both remotes and ideas.
 

daibaron

Active Member
Go in your TV settings and find something related to HDMI "CEC" then check if it is enabled and able to switch off any or particular devices.
 
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Punch

Standard Member
I have managed to set it up now thanks. One thing I’m finding this morning is last night I was watching 6 Underground on Netflix through my Amazon cube playing in ATMOS sounded amazing. This morning I came back switched it back on to see how it sounded a bit louder and the sub and back speakers are not playing sound. Last night I had to see I had to set up both sub and rears as I got my new stands is there I have done wrong.

thank you
 

bitsss

Standard Member
The HW-Q950T was quite a disappointment. (you can read my review and comments on another thread).
I finally decided to get the HW-Q90R which at this time is not heavily discounted and sold at the same price point as the HW-Q950T.
Everything is now working well for me.
Q90R Compared to the Q950T:
The build quality is great
The sound quality is the same
Has LPCM 7.1 and DLNA/UpnP
This would explain Q950T fast price dropping,at least in my country,along with other goofs,like 'upfiring display',or fierce competition from LG,Sonos.
Again,happy not to buy this one and purchased the Q90R,back in spring.
 

Punch

Standard Member
Have you either of you had issues with powering the Q90R off then when you power it back the sub and rear speakers fail to connect. I am having to do this every morning and it’s getting a bit frustrating I’m not sure if it’s me. I have followed the paring process but still having issues. I have also updated the software to the newest via SmartThings but I did see yesterday looking at each update that my sub I think should be on 136 but was on 130 I think. Any help or advice would be really appreciated as the unit when it works is
 

San5324

Active Member
Have you either of you had issues with powering the Q90R off then when you power it back the sub and rear speakers fail to connect. I am having to do this every morning and it’s getting a bit frustrating I’m not sure if it’s me. I have followed the paring process but still having issues. I have also updated the software to the newest via SmartThings but I did see yesterday looking at each update that my sub I think should be on 136 but was on 130 I think. Any help or advice would be really appreciated as the unit when it works is
I have zero issues... Am using it since last year June.
 

jms_uk

Well-known Member
Have you either of you had issues with powering the Q90R off then when you power it back the sub and rear speakers fail to connect. I am having to do this every morning and it’s getting a bit frustrating I’m not sure if it’s me. I have followed the paring process but still having issues. I have also updated the software to the newest via SmartThings but I did see yesterday looking at each update that my sub I think should be on 136 but was on 130 I think. Any help or advice would be really appreciated as the unit when it works is
Has been a problem across the Samsung soundbar generations k950, n950, q90r and q950t (for some). Do you have a 5ghz router or wifi mesh extender?

I wrote an extensive post here which is to do with the N950, but given the similarity in hardware with the Q90R, its worth a look to see if anything in there works for you :)
 
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Punch

Standard Member
I tried and updated the sub and rears hopefully helps as I was showing old update I think originally. So I think may be that is what the issue was. When I first got it home it did an update via SmartThings but I think it may of been only for the sound bar. Does that sound right. I have put down what I had below.


M 0128.0

B1 1010.5

H 0051.0

FD 0040.0

W 0242.0

S 0133.0

RR 0133.0

RL 0133.0
 

BeefS2

Active Member
I tried and updated the sub and rears hopefully helps as I was showing old update I think originally. So I think may be that is what the issue was. When I first got it home it did an update via SmartThings but I think it may of been only for the sound bar. Does that sound right. I have put down what I had below.

M 0128.0

B1 1010.5

H 0051.0

FD 0040.0

W 0242.0

S 0133.0

RR 0133.0

RL 0133.0
Yeah, the rears should be 136.0
 

AhYungIX

Standard Member
Have you either of you had issues with powering the Q90R off then when you power it back the sub and rear speakers fail to connect. I am having to do this every morning and it’s getting a bit frustrating I’m not sure if it’s me. I have followed the paring process but still having issues. I have also updated the software to the newest via SmartThings but I did see yesterday looking at each update that my sub I think should be on 136 but was on 130 I think. Any help or advice would be really appreciated as the unit when it works is
Bro, you are not alone.
One simple solution is to "unplug the sub's power plug and replug back after 3 seconds"
Another solution is ... disable SUB totally.

I'm doing this everytime when i wanna hear sub.
 

Punch

Standard Member
I updated the sub and rears and now all working fine no more drop outs. I think it was because the sub and rears where on old software. Let’s hope it stays like that because they are amazing piece of tech when they work. Are you on the newest software?
 

AhYungIX

Standard Member
I updated the sub and rears and now all working fine no more drop outs. I think it was because the sub and rears where on old software. Let’s hope it stays like that because they are amazing piece of tech when they work. Are you on the newest software?
Mine is Q950T actually with the latest version 1017.5 which is same as Q90R i believe.

But somehow in Q950T still have ppl also facing same issue.
 

portenyo

Novice Member
Just returned a JBL Bar 9.1, so it's already impressed on all accounts.
Hi all, I have a JBL BAR 9.1, did you find so much better the Samsung hw-q90r?
How do you cast music to the Samsung soundbar? I love this feature in JBL BAR 9.1. Have you been able to cast from apps without bluetooth?
Thanks in advance.
 
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Punch

Standard Member
I copied this from Samsung forums. Hope it helps


The sound bar can link with TV via HDMI, Wifi and Bluetooth. Obviously HDMI is the preferred mode.



The real use for Wifi connection is music streaming. You can stream music from Spotify
directly to soundbar without TV turn on.


 

portenyo

Novice Member
I copied this from Samsung forums. Hope it helps


The sound bar can link with TV via HDMI, Wifi and Bluetooth. Obviously HDMI is the preferred mode.



The real use for Wifi connection is music streaming. You can stream music from Spotify
directly to soundbar without TV turn on.


So the only app that's able to cast to Samsung hw-q90r is Spotify? (nor Amazon music, Deezer, etc.)
It's a pity. I was thinking of getting one, but if this is that way I'd prefer JBL BAR 9.1.
 

Dalibor Koplik

Active Member
So the only app that's able to cast to Samsung hw-q90r is Spotify? (nor Amazon music, Deezer, etc.)
It's a pity. I was thinking of getting one, but if this is that way I'd prefer JBL BAR 9.1.
Smart Things app offers Tune In and (I think) Deezer; YouTube can be casted as well via BT
 

Syrixiya

Standard Member
I tried and updated the sub and rears hopefully helps as I was showing old update I think originally. So I think may be that is what the issue was. When I first got it home it did an update via SmartThings but I think it may of been only for the sound bar. Does that sound right. I have put down what I had below.


M 0128.0

B1 1010.5

H 0051.0

FD 0040.0

W 0242.0

S 0133.0

RR 0133.0

RL 0133.0
Yeah, the rears should be 136.0
I updated the sub and rears and now all working fine no more drop outs. I think it was because the sub and rears where on old software. Let’s hope it stays like that because they are amazing piece of tech when they work. Are you on the newest software?
How do you know what the sub and rear version should be? Also, how are you updating them individually? or are you just re-applying the main firmware file?

Thanks.
 

BeefS2

Active Member
How do you know what the sub and rear version should be? Also, how are you updating them individually? or are you just re-applying the main firmware file?

Thanks.
To check the firmware, turn off the bar. When off hold the settings button until the words start scrolling across the screen. The current firmware will scroll across the screen.

With smartthings everything should update at the same time. It doesn’t always work out that way. If you update by USB, you have a couple extra steps to update sub and rears. To do this turn on the q90r and let it sit for a minute or 2 then tap the volume button then press and hold the down button on the circular pad until update flashes across the bar. Update should flash on the screen for a few minutes, and then it’ll cycle through turning off and restarting a few times. Let it be for a minute or two to make sure it’s done with updating

Good reference thread
 

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