Samsung HT-TZ212R - Fan noise solution

Discussion in 'Home Cinema Buying & Building' started by greyhound_dog_1, Jul 22, 2008.

  1. greyhound_dog_1

    greyhound_dog_1
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    Hi all

    Just bought the Samsung HT-TZ212R 5.1 home cinema system a few months back. First of all, this is a fantastic system, and a worthy replacement to by previous THX 2.1 system, and I can recommend it.

    I have, however, had some difficulty with the stock fitted cooling fan in the receiver/player unit. The fan air movement noise is clearly audible at medium listening volumes. As well as being generally noisy, it would, intermittantly, produce a rattling noise.

    I have successfully sorted it out, so this is just a note to those out there thinking of buying this product, or who have bought it and are also irritated with the noise and want to fix it.

    Basically, I replaced the 50mm fan with quieter Rasurbo model, and insert 4 x 1N4001 diodes to reduce the fan voltage by 3V.

    ----

    And now, the how 2 section for those interested.

    Removing the case:
    Make sure power is unplugged!
    Unscrew the five screws using a small flat head screwdriver (using a cross-head tends to eat the soft screws they've used). Slide cover back a few mm until resistance is felt, then lift the back of the cover up - pivoting about the front. Once cover is at 45 degrees, it will then slide out of the catches at the front.

    Replacing the case:
    Reverse of above. When inserting back into slots at front, make sure it's at 45 degrees, and that all the catches are fully inserted before lowering the cover into place. As I found out, if one catch isn't in it's slot, the cover will put stress on the front LED panel, and make it go a bit crazy with all the indicators lit. If this happens, don't panic, just take it off and try again, no damage seems to be caused.

    Existing 12V DC fan is held on by 2 screws at the back, and is plugged into the circuit board by a small 2 pin connector. Unscrew these and unplug to remove the fan.

    Having removed the fan from the case and observed it in operation, the fan for no reason, started to get a bit off axis and vibrate. This is an obvious fault with the stock fan (but perhaps just my particular one). Rather than send the whole unit back for a fortnight to have the fan replaced, I decided it was easier to do it myself.

    I purchased a replacement 50mm 12V Rasurbo quiet fan for about £7.

    The new fan had screw holes that were wider than the old fan, so the old screws could not be used; neither did the screws supplied with the new fan go through the case holes. I increased the diameter of the case holes slightly using a magnetic screwdriver rather than a drill, that way the small fines are collected and don't end up in the unit!

    I cut the connector off the old fan, stripped the wires and soldered to the new fan.

    The new fan worked well, much better. However, the air whoosh noise was still very noticable. The new fan was very quiet when not mounted in the case, but the presence of the case grill at the back made it noisy again. I found that covering up part of the exhaust grill makes the fan speed reduce - this indicates the air flow is already being limited by the size of the aperture, and so this is the reason why it is noisy. So the fan speed needs reducing.

    I chose a fan that had similar performance to the stock fan. However, if you can find a fan that is a bit slower than the stock fan (i.e. < 9.79 cuft/min) then this would be useful.
    The stock fan details can be found here:
    http://www.qwikflow.com/DC_Fans/dc5015.pdf
    (see RDM5015S).

    To reduce the fan speed, I just attached four 1N4001 diodes as per the method on this link. Simply soldered then in series with the positive supply.

    http://www.cpemma.co.uk/diodes.html

    I experimented with 3 to 5 diodes in series, and found that 4 diodes gave a suitable fan speed - low noise, but it felt like a similar flow rate when installed in the case.

    This reduced the fan speed and reduced air noise to a whisper. Note that at the optimum fan speed, there will be very little change in cooling, as the air flow was previously limited by the size of the grill holes anyway (and was noisy), whereas now it is just about limited by the fan speed (and so is quiet).

    Incidentally, I also found the unit has a sensitive thermal cut-out, so if your fan speed is insufficient, it will let you know rather than suffering damage. [I unplugged the fan to see what the effect was, and after 2 minutes, the whole unit turned off]. I tested the reduced fan speed cooling on a loudish volume (18-20) for some 15 minutes, and it did not cut out. As it shouldn't, since the actual air speed felt about the same.

    So if you are happy voiding the warranty, I would recommend the above simple surgery. If you don't have a rattly fan, perhaps no need to buy a new fan - simply adding diodes may make it quieter.

    Or just learn to live with it. Or turn up the volume a bit.
    :)

    P.s. I will not be held responsible for people following this advice who accidentally kill their system...
     
  2. phildrip

    phildrip
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    Thanks for this - I replaced the noisy fan in my Samsung HTZ310r as you recommended and it's virtually silent now! Fantastic!
     
  3. greyhound_dog_1

    greyhound_dog_1
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    Aha, I see someone found this useful, that's good.
    Addition note on the Samsaung fan noise issue.

    With the replacement so called 'quiet' fan I have since found as time goes on, that it was still a little clicky.

    Investigations revealed that the fan was noisy when held vertically, but when positioned flat/horizontal it was silent.

    Just to see if it would work, I simply attached the fan flat on the top of the heatsink, and held it in place with those super sticky double sided pads from DIY stores that are meant for holding mirrors to their housing.

    It was super quiet, and even though the air was no longer being exhausted from the back, the unit didn't complain about the temperature.

    It seems sufficient to move heat from the heat exchanger to the inside of the box. I guess the box being metal conducts the heat out anyway.

    Rather than messing around with new fans and diodes, I would try this one first, just move the fan horizontal.
     

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