Answered Running power and HDMI in ceiling? Advice on how to do this.

[KhalJimbo]

Hi All,

We are in the process of buying a new build property and unfortunately the builder won't install plug sockets on the ceiling for me or let me run an HDMI cable before the cover up the ceiling.

I'll need to get all of this done after we are in now.

Question I have is, what is the easiest way to run HDMI and get plug sockets onto the ceiling with minimal damage?

This is the layout of the room. Where the screen is will all the equipment. The blue lines are the direction of the joists, the red dots are the ceiling lights and the black dot is where I would want a plug sockets. Any advice on how to achieve this with minimal damage and trunking?

I will be getting an electrician to add the sockets.

 

[xxGBHxx]

Hi,

*NEVER* heard of anything so ridiculous. First fix (as running cables is called) is an absolutely basic thing to do before you seal up and do second fix (put the lights/sockets in).

Now I can absolutely understand *HE* might not be prepared to run the cables, and that is absolutely fine. But he has absolutely no business whatsoever telling you that you can't run cables in your own house. Personally I'd tell him to down tools and wait for you to do whatever the hell you want.

On to your issue. There is no "easy way" other than to either surface mount or take the ceiling down (or at the very least cut a hole between every other joist). Firstly I can't see where your incoming circuit for the sockets is. If you've not already taken a spur from an existing ring or a radial/ring direct from the CU for those sockets then you're in the poop. You can't take a spur off the lighting for the sockets as that's not allowed.

By building regs you also have to be careful where you notch/drill joists for pipes and cables. If you want to get a cable to that mid dot you can either run it in over the surface and then into the void between the joists where the socket would go. Or you just cut holes between every other joist big enough to get your drill in and drill through the joists. Surface mount is less destructive but then you'll have to hide the wire somehow.

The only other option maybe is if you have access to the roof from the floor above. If you can lift the floor and get at it that way you might be able to do it from there but again depending on the floor you have that can be very destructive.

Sorry there's not better way to do it.

G

 

[Joe Fernand]

'But he has absolutely no business whatsoever telling you that you can't run cables in your own house' - he/she will if they have a Builders Insurance policy which dictates that they and they alone can work in the property prior to handover, happens all the time.

Joe

 

[xxGBHxx]

'But he has absolutely no business whatsoever telling you that you can't run cables in your own house' - he/she will if they have a Builders Insurance policy which dictates that they and they alone can work in the property prior to handover, happens all the time.

Joe

Sorry my fault then as I assumed it was just a builder they'd hired doing work on the property before they move in. Especially when he's talking about a sparky doing work etc.

If it's a completely new build the misplacing of sockets is the last of his worries

I digress.

G

 

[IWC Dopplel]

You could always run a spectate line from the CU if it’s close, put a separate switch fuse and avoid a plug. So the line comes from the CU through the ceiling to an iec socket.

 

[xxGBHxx]

You could always run a spectate line from the CU if it’s close, put a separate switch fuse and avoid a plug. So the line comes from the CU through the ceiling to an iec socket.

Whats a spectate line? Can't find reference to it anywhere. If you mean fused radial from the CU then how does that help with the wiring? You still have to get past the joists either way or am I missing something? (quite possible!)

G

 

[KhalJimbo]

Sorry my fault then as I assumed it was just a builder they'd hired doing work on the property before they move in. Especially when he's talking about a sparky doing work etc.

If it's a completely new build the misplacing of sockets is the last of his worries

I digress.

G

This is correct, it's a complete new build. The place has yesterday become water tight so the internals are being started on now.

I've asked to have two sockets in the ceiling and the site manager said that it would deviate from the originals plans and the NHBC states they can't fit plug sockets higher than 1.2m from the floor.

I have it all done with trunking in my current setup and it's OK but ideally I would like to not use trunking here. I don't mind using trunking to get to the screen that is fine as it will in in the corner of the wall. It's the power\HDMI to the PJ itself that is my concern, since it will be in the middle of the room I don't want trunking running up the wall. It is dot and dab plaster board so I suppose there might be a possibility of fishing power and HDMI behind the plaster boards on the walls. Getting it to the ceiling might be tricky.

I'm going for a site visit on Friday so might try plead my case to the site manager again.

 

[Joe Fernand]

If they won't run wires ask them to run conduit where you know you want to run wires.

We have managed to 'sneak' onsite a few times to get cables in where the builders where not for getting involved.

Joe

 

[Cherrywood]

Understand not fitting new sockets as per there new regs but HDMI should be fine.

I would ask for HDMI and as Joe said conduit with draw string or even electric cable but not terminated. Then will be easy to retro fit once they have packed up and gone.

Not sure on full set up your going for, but might want to ask for speaker cable runs also for ATMOS is future. Again have cables run to speaker locations but not terminated so you simply cut speaker holes and grab cables.

 

[KhalJimbo]

Thanks @Joe Fernand and @Cherrywood

I'll ask about getting trunking put in. They are already putting trunking in the wall for the TV and to be honest I can just pull a power cable up that to power the PJ Screen.

Speaker setup I currently have a Monitor Audio 5.2.0 with two upward firing Atmos speakers.

I plan to go for a Klipsch RP 260 5.2.1 to start (with my current Onkyo upfiring Atmos speakers to start). Speaker cables I'm not too fussed on at the moment since it's dot and dab plaster boarding so should be easy to fish holes through.

My main concern is the ceiling stuff, @Cherrywood that's a very good idea about asking if speaker wires can just be laid and not terminated in trunking. They are already putting trunking in one of the walls for me so will see if I can get it added to the ceiling too for HDMI. Power to the PJ is still a concern. I can do it with a long lead and trunking if I put the PJ at the back of the room but that is almost 6.5m away from the screen so will be too far away. Ideally I want the PJ about 4m away for a 120" image.

 

[Gerard Fernand]

Whats the room layout and socket position of the rooms above the lounge, it may be easier to take a spur from one of these to the projector position. Assuming the floors are chipboard panels, then use these http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/trend/content/content_detail.php?record_type=Knowledge&id=15888 to create access to the ceiling void.

 

[IWC Dopplel]

Whats a spectate line? Can't find reference to it anywhere. If you mean fused radial from the CU then how does that help with the wiring? You still have to get past the joists either way or am I missing something? (quite possible!)

G

Sorry for the late reply, yes in my installation I took a line direct from the consumer unit which was not too far away via heating pipes across the ceiling to the PJ with a iec connection. So avoided adding a 13A socket and plug

 

[IWC Dopplel]

So my off switch to remove power to the PJ is a fuse in the CU on that floor