Replacing Lightwave Connect series 2-gang with with Lightwave Smart series 2-gang switch

jasehigh

Novice Member
Decided to replace my Lightwave connect series switches with the Lightwave smart series switches, to get greater LED compatibility and native homekit support.
I thought the new Lightwave switches would have the same connections as the old switches, alas they do not.

The 2-gang connect switches have X, S and L terminals for both "Master 1" and "Master 2".
The 2-gang smart switches have S, L, N for "Dimmer 1" and X for "Dimmer 2".

I currently have a 2-gang Lightwave connect series switch in my Kitchen, controlling the main ceiling light on the left switch and under cabinet lights on the right switch.
Can any one advise on the wiring required for the new Lightwave smart series switch. Diagrams attached.

Any help is really appreciated.

Jase.
 

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jasehigh

Novice Member
Picture of current wiring of Lightwave connect 2-gang switch attached.
 

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nigelk1

Active Member
The smart switches have L & N to power the unit, and then x for dimmer 1 to power circuit 1 and x for dimmer 2 to power circuit 2.

The diagram for your existing circuit doesn’t make sense as you wouldn’t link the 2 switch circuits together (x), are you sure the red wires are not connected to the L on each circuit ?

also in the photo of the box, does the blue terminate in a connector block somewhere ?
 

jasehigh

Novice Member
A better picture of the current Lightwave Connect switch wiring is attached, as you can see, it's as per the diagram. There are neutral wires behind the box, but these are connected together in a terminating block.
 

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nigelk1

Active Member
The instructions for the smart say connect a neutral if you have it, so it isn’t 100% necessary. The 2 browns should be the live feed so they would go in the L on the new switch. It’s the red and yellow/red that I don’t understand.

do you know what colour wire feeds your under counter lights ?

the x denotes the switch circuit and x on master 1 should go to one light and the x on master 2 to the other, but your are linked which doesn’t make sense unless they have been wired incorrectly and the red is supplying the live, but then I don’t think the switch would work.

do you have a meter you can use to check the voltages ? I.e do you see 240v on the brown or red wires ?
 

jasehigh

Novice Member
There are two under cabinet LED light strips controlled from the current "master 1" switch, these just have live (brown) and blue (neutral) wires going to the LED driver. Hence, I believe the 2 brown wires are for the under cabinet lights.
 

nigelk1

Active Member
Ok so that would potentially indicate the old switch is wired incorrectly. The brown should be in the x symbol as this is the switched circuit.

the old and new should be like the diagram below.

EF881CE6-3731-4A0C-91AD-32857023D28F.jpeg


you could try connecting the red to the L on your new switch and see if it powers up.

If it does the the 2 brown would go in one x and the yellow/red in the other.

But it would be better if you could check what voltage you are seeing on the wires first.
 

Chester

Well-known Member
I agree with Nigel that this doesn't seem to have been wired correctly before at all. But probably not worth focussing too much on the old/existing wiring, but would be good to know what's presented to the wall box. Ideally this should be:

Live + optional but highly recommended neutral (I'll ignore earth since it's not connected to the dimmers themselves)
Switched live for circuit 1
Switched live for circuit 2

L22 connections.png


All but 2 of mine have neutrals at the dimmer, just traditional wiring doesn't make this possible right now, but they work just fine for those circuits at least. All neutrals are connected together using a single terminal block and then out to the N terminal on the dimmer. If you don't have neutrals coming to the wall box, ignore connecting the N terminal and hopefully it will be stable for your circuits.
 

jasehigh

Novice Member
Thanks both the the advise. I have established the 2 brown wires are the under cabinet lights, while the yellow/red wire is the ceiling light.

If I attach the 2 brown wires to L and the red wire to X - the under cabinet lights can be controlled.
if I attach the yellow/red with to L and the red wire to X - the ceiling light can be controlled.

Somehow the switch wire is shared for the ceiling light and the under cabinet lights.
 

nigelk1

Active Member
Thanks both the the advise. I have established the 2 brown wires are the under cabinet lights, while the yellow/red wire is the ceiling light.

If I attach the 2 brown wires to L and the red wire to X - the under cabinet lights can be controlled.
if I attach the yellow/red with to L and the red wire to X - the ceiling light can be controlled.

Somehow the switch wire is shared for the ceiling light and the under cabinet lights.
Hi,
You need the red in the L and then the 2 browns in one x and the yellow/red in the other like I said before.

your trying to wire in correctly like it was before.
 

jasehigh

Novice Member
Yep, it makes sense.. and light switch now installed and working:
Red into L
Brown x2 into X
Yellow/red into X

Calibrated the lights, but I get a flickering in the ceiling light when I switch on/off the under cabinet lights (only if the ceiling light is on first).
 

nigelk1

Active Member
Yep, it makes sense.. and light switch now installed and working:
Red into L
Brown x2 into X
Yellow/red into X

Calibrated the lights, but I get a flickering in the ceiling light when I switch on/off the under cabinet lights (only if the ceiling light is on first).
The first thing to try would be to get a neutral connected like Chester said. If you can get to the connector block behind your box and run a new wire.
 

jasehigh

Novice Member
I have indeed connected the neutral wires, without these connected the ceiling light continually flashed. However, I still have the ceiling light flicking when the under cabinet lights are then switched on/off.
 

Chester

Well-known Member
What happens if you swap the 2 switched outputs? I've had to do this in my home office to put 3 x GU10 Philips Master load on dimmer 1. The other load is an LED batten and on dimmer 1, this was flickering when off, but absolutely fine when on dimmer 2.

Or, the flickering you may be talking about is the load on dimmer 2 flashing when on as the soft start on dimmer 1 is activating. I have this in the kitchen for dimmers 2 and 3, however they can be switched on or off with no flashing; the flashing only happens if 2 or 3 is on, as 1 is switched on, and only for the dimmers that are already on.

Just to double check, what do your loads comprise of (ceiling light and LED tape driver)? Lightwave are recommending Ledridge these days and they work very well with the 24V triac driver.
 

jasehigh

Novice Member
The kicker under cabinets have an LED Strip (60 LED/M 4000K IP65 SMD2835 Chip 12V DC) and a LED driver (TRIAC Dimmable instant Voltage LED Power Supply PSU20W24VDCD). These work well with Lightwave connect and smart series switch as far as I can see.

Swapping the switched units over did the trick, no flickering now.

many thanks for all the assistance, really appreciated as always.
 

Chester

Well-known Member
Cool! May I ask what the other load is? And which one is on Dimmer 1 (on the right as viewed from the front)?
 

jasehigh

Novice Member
Dimmer 1 is the kitchen ceiling light, where there is a track light, now fitted with 6 dimmable GU10 bulbs, Philips CorePro LED Spot 5W (50W) Dimmable GU10 Lamp 4000k Cool White (929001364302).
 

nigelk1

Active Member
Excellent.

I got a 10 pack of those bulbs for £28 from Amazon which is a good deal I think
 

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