rawl bolts into breeze block ???

Discussion in 'Home Cinema Building DIY' started by jono400, Apr 18, 2007.

  1. jono400

    jono400
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    Anyone advise me on what type off bolts would best suit the following situation ?? wantting to put up a wall bracket to hold up a 42" plasma tv, actual wall where it is being mounted is plasterboard with a small gap and then breeze block with dods holding the plasterboard in place.

    so okay whats the best method off getting a very secure fixing on this then ?? how do you prevent the breeze block from just crumbling when drilling the hole into it and is anything required to pack out this small gap at the other side off the plasterboard ??


    any advice, tips, pics would be greatly appreciatted.

    cheers,
    john
     
  2. woody67

    woody67
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    Do you mean breeze block (lightweight clinker ash and concrete from the 50's and 60's), lightweight concrete or modern aerated blocks?

    Any soft block, or one with numerous voids, would be better with a resin fixing.

    Remember that the load is distributed between all fixings, and is acting down and not trying to pull the fixing out horizontally.

    The easiest way to fill the gap between the board and the wall is with expanding foam.

    The alternative is to cut the boards and fit some timber directly to the blocks
     
  3. jono400

    jono400
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    Okay thanks so much for your reply, thought it was breeze block but too be honest not sure now that you have suggested a few other alternatives that to the uneducated could well be :oops: its a grey block which looks as if it would crumble quite easy if drilled into , its actually a main outside wall so its this breeze block or whatver and then the actual outside brickwork.

    breese block still used nowadays ??

    house is only around four years old so you reckon its probably not actually breeze block then ??

    you reckon a resin fixing then, does this work alongside the actual rawl bolts then ???

    and lastly yep expanding foam sounds fine- good idea !!

    sorry for all the questions mate but sure you understand just want to try get it right first time around - otherwaide could be an expensive mistake !!!
     
  4. freero

    freero
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    jono if you decide to use expanding foam be very careful not to inject too much, and be sure to use 'low expansion' foam. Otherwise you`ll end up blowing your plasterboard off the wall and it`s a nightmare to fix.
     
  5. jono400

    jono400
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    No problem mate appreciatte your advice, my main concern is getting these rawl bolts into the breeze block securely enough, as I say the block looks as if it could crumble too easily but suppose there is only one way off finding out ??!!

    might take the option off removing the whole plasterboard area behind the wall bracket and fitting a bit off ply to the wall instaed and then attatching the wall bracket to this, not sure if this would make any difference to the overall strength off the fixing or not but would at least fill out the space rather than having to bother with expanding foam etc.

    anyone anything further to add ?? any advice at all would be so much appreciatted.

    cheers
     
  6. Lakes_Puma

    Lakes_Puma
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    Hi Jono

    I have done exactly what you are wanting to do, see my photos here

    TV Bracket

    I used this stuff Resin

    and fixed studs into the blockwork (by about 100mm) then when that had set I packed the holes around the studs with a plaster/PVA mix and pushed it right into the gaps once it was all set I painted it and mounted the wall bracket, solid as a rock!
     
  7. jono400

    jono400
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    Thanks so much for the info / link to your pictures thats ioff great help to me and am sure its going to be the best idea for my particular set up.

    one question you say studs is this just a length off threaded rod cut up, or is it actually rawl bolts ?? sorry slightly new to all this !!! any ideas if I can buy this threaded rod thru screwfix like the resin you linked to ??

    lastly, thuis resin can it be applied with the use off say a normal silicone type applicator gun ??

    thats it, once again really do appreciatte your kind help.

    regards,
    john
     
  8. Lakes_Puma

    Lakes_Puma
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    Hi Jono

    The fixing are just threaded rods from screwfix see Rods

    and you need a special gun (like a silicone one but fatter) I bought one for the job and it cost me about 20 quid like this one resin gun but if you don't think you'll use it again you can borrow mine, all I ask is you cover the postage costs and return it when you've finished with it.

    PM me if you want to do this.
     
  9. jono400

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    Thanks so much for your further advice and off course your very kind offer , will certainly get back to you within the next few days mate to arrange if your offer is required, plasma is due to be delivered next tuesday so will try get things sorted out asap regards gettiung this bracket fitted, never seems enough time with work commitments etc just now ??!!! but again will be back in touch soon.

    thanks again for now.

    john
     
  10. jono400

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    Hi mate just a quick update !! now have the m10 studs, resin and the neccesary wall bracket all ready to be fitted, the resin I managed to get from screwfix was off the correct size for a normal silicon type applicator gun so no probs there but again thanks so much for your kind offer anyway.

    okay any advice on what size off hole I will have to drill for m10x130 studs ie. will it have to be slightly bigger in both diammeter and length than neccesary for these studs so as to allow the resin to fill the surrounding area or should I make it a snug fit as it actually grips the stud but still make it slightly longer so any excess resin has somewhere to go - slightly confused if someone can offer any advice ??

    cheers
     
  11. woody67

    woody67
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    I would go for a snug fit as the voids in the wall and the thread depth, will allow the resin to grip. So try a 10mm, or 11mm at the most.
     
  12. seafoodmix

    seafoodmix
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    drill bit dia 12mm for 10mm rod

    hole depth min. 95mm


    drill, blow out hole with a pump, brush clean hole , then resin inject (discard first two pumps) , curing as tin but should be about 2.5 hr


    be advised that to use the anchor properly the nut should be done up with a torque wrench.

    As it is not an expanding anchor you will not necessarily get a point where you can turn it no more. You may find that if you start putting all your weight on a spanner that the anchor and it surrounding resin rotate in the hole !
     

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