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Quick Crossover Question

Evokazz

Well-known Member
Had my setup running a few years now and never been impressed with the bass, it's ok, but not mind blowing like some similar systems, decided to have a fiddle with it and start by asking here, it sounds like it's almost there, but lacking detail if this makes sense. I don't tend to have it booming out full whack, I prefer a clear detailed sound, but feel the Sub is getting lost in the background (only sometimes).

I have the following:

Denon AVRX2200W
Q Acoustics 3020 fronts
Q Acoustics 3090c center
Q Acoustics 3010 rears
Q Acoustics 7070si Sub

I have the crossovers set to 80hz on all speakers, on the sub itself the level is set around the 10pm position, and the crossover to "AV". Phase is 0.

Everythings sounds reasonable, but wondering if should increase the crossover in the amp on ALL speakers to 100hz or even 120hz? I can't help wonder if some detail is being lost at 80hz. My sub is from a different range from the rest of my speakers and apparently has a bit more power than the 3000 version had, so want to make sure it's being utilised correctly.

People say the main things affected by crossover are fronts and subs (not sure if this is right) but here are the specs for the setup regarding Freq: If everything looks good at my current 80hz with these speakers (and Audyssey threw the 80hz figure up as well) then I'll just accept that and resume as normal, but always best to check with someone who knows better.


Fronts 3020
  • Frequency Response: 64Hz - 22kHz
  • Nominal Impedance: 6ohm
  • Minimum Impedance: 4.0ohm
  • Sensitivity: 88dB
  • Recommended Power: 25 - 75w
  • Crossover Frequency: 2.9kHz

Center 3090c

  • Frequency Response: 75Hz - 22kHz
  • Nominal Impedance: 6ohm
  • Sensitivity: 89dB
  • Recommended Power: 25 - 100w
  • Crossover Frequency: 2.7kHz

Rear 3010
  • Frequency Response: 68Hz - 22kHz
  • Nominal Impedance: 6ohm
  • Minimum Impedance: 6ohm
  • Sensitivity: 86dB
  • Recommended Power: 15 - 75w
  • Crossover Frequency: 2.8kHz

Sub 7070si
  • LF Unitsy: 8" High-Excursion Driver
  • Power Handlingy: 150W Class-D
  • Frequencyy: 35Hz - 200Hz
 

mjbtin

Well-known Member
You can try setting the crossover on the speakers to 100hz.
Maybe you just need to up the gain/vol on sub to 12oclock and rerun audyessy.

Martin
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
Set the SENSITIVITY control on the subwoofer to ON as opposed to using the AUTO setting. This will negate the sub from not waking up when required. It is ordinarilly suggested not to use AUTO power settings on subwoofers if they are being integrated into an AV setup.


There's nothing preventing you from experimenting with the crossover configurations, but I'd suggest not setting the crossovers below 80Hz. Also note that if you increase the crossover settings and then start to detect where the subwoofer is located then it would be advisable to then decrease the setting until you once again cannot locate the sub by its output. It is unlikely you'd be able to detect where the sub is located with settings below 200Hz though.
 

Evokazz

Well-known Member
Set the SENSITIVITY control on the subwoofer to ON as opposed to using the AUTO setting. This will negate the sub from not waking up when required. It is ordinarilly suggested not to use AUTO power settings on subwoofers if they are being integrated into an AV setup.


There's nothing preventing you from experimenting with the crossover configurations, but I'd suggest not setting the crossovers below 80Hz. Also note that if you increase the crossover settings and then start to detect where the subwoofer is located then it would be advisable to then decrease the setting until you once again cannot locate the sub by its output. It is unlikely you'd be able to detect where the sub is located with settings below 200Hz though.

Thanks, would 100hz be more fitting for my setup than 80hz?

The power setting isn't an issue, it's been set to always ON since new.
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
80Hz may be a little too close to some of the speakers' actual rated roll offs so I'd suggest 90Hz to allow for a smoother transition from the speakers to the sub. You could set this higher though if you wish, but will incrementally increase the chanaces of the sub becoming locatable the higher you set these crossovers. It would be something you'd need to have a play about with in order to determine the best setting for your room and indeed your hearing.


Maybe even consider locating the sub elsewhere within the room? It could actually be where it is now that makes its output less distinguishable? There may be issues will nulls in its current location?
 

Evokazz

Well-known Member
80Hz may be a little too close to some of the speakers' actual rated roll offs so I'd suggest 90Hz to allow for a smoother transition from the speakers to the sub. You could set this higher though if you wish, but will incrementally increase the chanaces of the sub becoming locatable the higher you set these crossovers. It would be something you'd need to have a play about with in order to determine the best setting for your room and indeed your hearing.


Maybe even consider locating the sub elsewhere within the room? It could actually be where it is now that makes its output less distinguishable? There may be issues will nulls in its current location?

I've left at 80hz as there doesn't seem a noticable difference from 80hz to 120hz weirdly, and 80hz is reference they say. How about the LPE to LFE frequency in the amp? This is set to:

LFE
120hz

Is this correct? I've read on Google this should be left at 120hz. My sub is pulled forward away from the wall slightly due to placement of living room this is unvoidable, should the sub be up against the wall? If so I can grab the wall mount for it and place it on wall.

Just tested Saving Private Ryan opening scene, the sound is phenomenal, but bass is lacking a little on explosions, there's a bit where some guy gets blown to bits and the explosion is close to the action, I can feel the bass in the sub, but it feels pretty weak to what I'd expect. Level is set to 10pm position.
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
LPF of LFE should always be left set to 120Hz. This filter only applies to the discrete LFE channel which is always sent to the sub and is never dealt with by the passive speakers if a sub is present. You leave it set to 120Hz because this is the ceiling used for the LFE channel associated with Dolby encoded content. decreasing this setting would effect the intended upper roll off of the LFE channel. the Low Pass Filter for the LFE channel is not a crossover.
 

Potsnack

Standard Member
I'm no expert but just my experiences in case it helps.

I have the same speakers as you except my sub is the QA 3070s. My room is fairly small but I found the QA speakers are at their best when the port bungs are used even though my speakers are 15+ inches away from walls. Whilst the bungs do remove a little bottom end they seem to add some "punch" to what bass remains and the sub takes care of the rest anyway.

I keep my Sub volume dial at 11-oclock which Audyssey32 reports as in the green during calibration and results in just a -0.5 trim. For crossovers Audyssey32 always gives a result of 40,40,60 (without bungs) and 60,60,90 (with bungs). I've tried all variations but always settle on 80,80,120 (with bungs).

I was initially disappointed in my speakers and bass but after many calibrations I found it was the sub position mainly at fault not the speakers. Just moving the sub an inch or two can make a world of difference it seems. Using the Audyssey app to monitor calibration results/graphs I was able to identify the best position for the sub in the room and since then I honestly couldn't be happier.

One silly thing to mention is that I've noticed (and for the life of my I can't work out why Denon do it) that the Denon 3500 defaults with Loudness Management On [Low]. This can really throttle the sound if you don't know it's on and can throw you a curve ball for a while. Worth checking before you do anything else and it engages after resets as well as out of the box. I'm also sure it came on after a recent firmware update too, but can't be 100% sure of that.
 

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