Quad 11L: Moving back to single wiring, where to connect?

T

THFC West Lower

Guest
Sorry for a stupid question guys, but Im moving back to a single run of wire as I got some free Kimber stuff which is meant to be good and wanted to compare to my current Bi-wire set-up.

After searching, I finally found the supplied 'jumper' bars, but having mis-placed the user manual, I cant remember whether the single wire goes into the HF or LF posts (treble or bass posts) via the banana plug that will be my cable termination?

Or does it not matter if there's a jumper in place?

Thanks

P.S if anyone has a link to the 11L user mnaual that would be great. Thanks
 
hi, i have some 11L's but they are bi-wired.

Just connect the single cable to the LF inputs and cut a short length of the same cable to run between the LF and HF inputs. will probably be better than the jumper poles anyway.
 
Doesn't matter as you essentially are just using one wire to touch both positives/negatives. Just make sure you link - to - and + to + LOL
 
Or does it not matter if there's a jumper in place?

The above is true, if you've jumper plates, you can connect either to HF or LF, up to you! But, as Chris says, if you snip a short length of your Kimber off, and use it in place of the jumper plates, this should in theory be better, as your cable is probably a better conductor than the plates.
Many biwire 'unbelievers' state this is the sole reason perople hear a differnce in a biwire situation, the plates are dumped and high quality speaker cable is used instead.
 
Thanks guys!

Do I leave the small lengths of Kimber un-terminated then, or should I used spades between the binding posts and insert the plugs into the end of the binding post
 
I'd leave the short length bare, as you'll njot often be removing/reattaching them (hopefully). As for the main length of speaker cable, your choice. All my cable is bare wire because I'm tight. It's a PITA when I move them, but that's about once a year.....
 
No big difference..but I would use spades as they are that much neater - and equally as easy to remove if the situation arises.....
 
Thanks guys!

Do I leave the small lengths of Kimber un-terminated then, or should I used spades between the binding posts and insert the plugs into the end of the binding post
Some suggestions.

If your speakers have good solid binding posts, dispence with adding bananas, spades, whatever. I can never see the point in inserting cable into a plug which just introduces another joint in the signal path. Unless you have a reason to move/replace your speakers on a regular basis, how can it help?

Before you jump to the Kimber, just because you can, strip back an extra inch or so of bare wire and insert through the treble terminals into the bass terminals. Then tighten up the binding posts HARD! See if you can actually tell any difference between this and biwiring.

I'll bet not. Keeping the jumper bars out of the chain, you'll have made the difference often ascribed to biwiring.

You'll now be in a position to decide whether the Kimber makes a difference in the direction you like. This is key. Stick with the cable that sounds right for you, not just because it's more expensive.

Russell
 
As Russ Will says, removing the jumper bars and replacing with short lengths of your prefered speaker cable removes issues jumper bars can cause. Personally I do still fit my own (high quality) banana plugs but I am a serial speaker swapper with B&W 601's, CM1's and 705's all having been part of my stereo experiments so far this year.
 
Thanks guys.

A family friend works in an audio outlet and is willing to attach the 'air-loc' QED plugs for dirt cheap, like he did with my exisiting cable, so it's a good quality connection.
 
Many biwire 'unbelievers' state this is the sole reason perople hear a differnce in a biwire situation, the plates are dumped and high quality speaker cable is used instead.

Before you jump to the Kimber, just because you can, strip back an extra inch or so of bare wire and insert through the treble terminals into the bass terminals. Then tighten up the binding posts HARD! See if you can actually tell any difference between this and biwiring.

I'll bet not. Keeping the jumper bars out of the chain, you'll have made the difference often ascribed to biwiring.

You 'unbeliever' you :rotfl:
 

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