Project- Hide out- aka dedicated cinema room build

aim-n-shoot

Active Member
Hi All

Well it had to happen sooner or later. I been a member for some time now and have posted my current set up in the gallery. But after seeing a number of dedicated rooms I have decided to covert an existing out building into a dedicated cinema room. Mainly to stop it becoming a dumping ground but also because I've gotten tired of being told to turn the volume down the kids are sleeping or what about the neighbours .

So to give you some background, we built an out building at the bottom of the garden. The purpose which was to use it to live in whlie our house was being renovated after whichit was going to be used as gym and office. As you may have guessed after the work on the house finished the gym and office didn't happen instead it became a dumping ground.The plan now is to convert it to a cinema.

As you will be able to see from the pictures the room is a fair size it is 4.6x6.6 at the widest. point and 4.8 @ the narrowest.

You will be able to see from the pictures the ceiling is pitched and not flat. I think this will cause problem acuosticaly.

The plan is to have a scope wide screen that will be 3mtr wide 1.79 (not sure if the right is right) the image will be able provided by , though not set in stone, an Epson 9100. The sound will come from B&W 600 series speakers in a 7.1 setup. The speakers will be powered by Onkyo 818 or a Denon .


Well that's it for now. Any advice you can give me especially acousticly will be welcomed.
 

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Peter Parker

Distinguished Member
Scope is generally a screen ratio of 2.35:1 to 2.40:1, depending on whether or not you have a preference. That would mean it would be 3m wide by 1.277m tall for 2.35:1.

TV is 16:9 or 1.78:1, and scope films will be shown smaller with black bars top and bottom. A 16:9 screen will be the same as your tv, only bigger (3m x 1.69m)

Gary
 

aim-n-shoot

Active Member
Scope is generally a screen ratio of 2.35:1 to 2.40:1, depending on whether or not you have a preference. That would mean it would be 3m wide by 1.277m tall for 2.35:1.

TV is 16:9 or 1.78:1, and scope films will be shown smaller with black bars top and bottom. A 16:9 screen will be the same as your tv, only bigger (3m x 1.69m)

Gary
Thanks for the info Gary.
The screen size will 16:9 (3X1.69), in the future, if I understand it correctly, I plan on using anamorphic lens to fill out the screen.
 

Peter Parker

Distinguished Member
If you use an A lens, it will make the image 33% wider than it currently is (if you keep the pj where it is and the screen height the same), so then you will need a 4m wide x 1.69m tall screen. A lenses are for scope screens, not 16:9 ones. See one of the links in my sig.

Gary
 

aim-n-shoot

Active Member
If you use an A lens, it will make the image 33% wider than it currently is (if you keep the pj where it is and the screen height the same), so then you will need a 4m wide x 1.69m tall screen. A lenses are for scope screens, not 16:9 ones. See one of the links in my sig.

Gary
Hi Gary
I want to keep to the screen width of 3 meters if i go to 4 it will be to big for the viewing distance. I could stretch to 4 but that would only leave me 30cm on each side for speakers. I suppose what i was trying to say was i would make to screen big enough for 2:35 and to use curtains to shrink it to 16:9 which will be less then 3 meters.

What do u think.. What would be the ideal viewing distance for a 4 meter screen
 

Peter Parker

Distinguished Member
With any 2.35 screen and anamorphic lens, I would sit between 2 to 3 times the screen height, depending on personal preference (2.4 x SH is where THX suggest the best viewing is done taking into account immersion and visual acuity with good quality full HD). If you zoom the image to fit the scope movie to the screen, then I would suggest 3 x the screen height because pixels become larger and the image courser because in effect you're moving your seating position 33% closer.

If you like a 2.5 x the SH ratio, a 3m wide 2.35 screen would have you sitting at 3.2m away, and a 4m wide 2.35 screen would have you at 4.3m away.

The best way to see what works for you though, is to project a 16:9 image onto the wall and sit as close as you feel comfortable with, and then zoom it wider for a 2.35 movie to the full 3m or 4m width and see how that looks (3m wide scope has a 2.25m wide 16:9 image, and a 4m wide scope has a 3m wide 16:9). Watch a few movies and move the seats to a place where you feel you're getting the best viewing experience from. Or, if your seating is already decided, make the image as big as you're happy to live with taking into account both ratios so that 16:9 doesn't look too small, which can happen if you get the seating distance wrong. You may then end up wanting to zoom everything that isn't 2.35 bigger.

Have you considered an acoustically transparent screen with the speakers behind, or what about having the speakers underneath or above the screen so you can go for a wider screen if that's what you want?

Gary
 

aim-n-shoot

Active Member
Hi Gary

I have had a play with the projecter last night and have settled for 3 meter at 16:9. I found if i go to 3 meter scope then in 16:9 the image size is too small for the area.
 

Peter Parker

Distinguished Member
Usually I'd suggest moving your seating closer so that the 16:9 becomes visually large enough, but if your seating is fixed, you have to make compromises somewhere. Home Cinema is usually all about compromises for most of us :)

Did you try 4m wide 2.35 and think about the speakers above/below or behind the screen?

Another option is Constant Image Area. With that you have a 2.05:1 ratio screen which gives both 16:9 and 2.35 the same image area. You just zoom to the width of the screen for scope movies, or zoom to the height for 16:9. Scope was always designed to be the same height and wider than 16:9 for more immersion, and to have it letterboxed within 16:9 is the opposite of what was intended as you lose the effect. CIA does go some way to solving the problems where CIH isn't practical.

Forgot to mention, zooming for CIA (or sticking with 16:9) means you don't need to go to the expense of a anamorphic lens either, and they can be quite expensive.

Gary.
 
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aim-n-shoot

Active Member
Mate that's what i meant, I just didn't know the correct term. I want to be able to have a CIA so that i can view both ratios on the same screen.

Btw i have been thinking about it at work may be i can raise the screen higher to allow for the speakers allowing me to widen the screen to 4 meters. Big is better as the say.

Ok what do u recommend the height of a 2.05:1 cia screen that will be 4 meters wide.
 

Peter Parker

Distinguished Member
With a 2.35:1 screen and constant image height (CIH), you can view both 16:9 and 2.35 on the same screen, and both are the same height. You can mask the sides when viewing 16:9 using ordinary curtains.

4m wide 2.35 screen is 1.7m high which will give you more room underneath the screen, but a smaller looking 16:9 image compared to the 2.05:1 screen. You may want top and bottom masking as well as side masking for that. Check out kbferns screen as he has a CIA set up.

4m wide 2.05 screen is 1.95m high so you will have less room underneath it than the 2.35 screen for your speakers. How tall is your ceiling?

Having a screen too high so that you're looking up when viewing can give you neck ache after a while, so a rule of thumb is to have the screen at a height so when seated, your eyes fall around a third to half way up the screen. If your eyes are around 1.15m from the ground, that would put the CIA screen around 30cm from the floor and maybe touching the ceiling. The CIH 2.35 screen would be 56cms from the ground, so give you more room for speakers underneath, unless you had to reduce the screen size a bit in which case you get more room at the sides and top/bottom.

Gary
 

jagdeepp

Banned
have you bought your screen? I have a fixed 3metre 16:9 screen by carada that I've taken down from my last project, it's got a gain of 1.4.
 

aim-n-shoot

Active Member
Hi mate

Nah have bought the screen yet as I was going ti use paint... but to be honest the whole project was put on hold due to work uncertainty. .. but good new is I that is more or less sorted so will be starting on in hope fully this week ...
 

jagdeepp

Banned
As it happens buddy, I'm home Wednesday and Thursday daytime. You are out at work? If not, pop over. I owe you a cuppa. I have sugar too ;-)
 

aim-n-shoot

Active Member
As it happens buddy, I'm home Wednesday and Thursday daytime. You are out at work? If not, pop over. I owe you a cuppa. I have sugar too ;-)
I m working on Thursday Wednesday... but will take you up on the offer of tea especially as you have sugar... :D when work and fasting easys up. ..
 

aim-n-shoot

Active Member
Ok people I started on my build today... first thing was to chase out the cable runs... First I thought id just use the white stick on trunking but then thought better of it.

I had a close call with one of the chase runs... I nearly cut through a hiden electric cable. When the were plastering they filled it in..

Needless to say I will have to move the cable slightly to avoid the cable.
 

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DrGekko

Well-known Member
Any advice you can give me especially acousticly will be welcomed.
Salaams dude. Congrats on getting your project underway.

Room preparation and planning is crucial if you want to achieve the best out of your kit as well as planning your upgrade pathway.

If you haven't purchased your gear, I would sincerely advise you to go and demo various set-ups and understand the problems and solutions that people have had with their rooms as this plays a big part.

As for the anamorphic lens route - this will cost a minimum of £1500 for a lens... if you have plenty of budget then great but just bear in mind, a pair of excellent subs will provide a substantially more satisfying home cinema experience than using an anamorphic lens, especially if your projector is able to vary aspect ratios. Again, you ought to demo various systems and make an informed plan as to where your cash should be spent.

Best of luck the project. I'm sure JagDeepp will provide some great advice. ;)
 

aim-n-shoot

Active Member
Salaams yaar..

Yeah I have been doing loads of reading setting the room up... I think I have finally got the layout down... just still scratching my head about how to deal with the vaulted ceiling ...
As far as the kit goes ive changed my mind about the anamorphic lens... especially as the PJ I have now allows u to change the aspect on it... instead I am looking to use that money towards other things ... like building a diy sub cos a nice tight sounding sub is better the having the lens...
 

aim-n-shoot

Active Member
As it happens buddy, I'm home Wednesday and Thursday daytime. You are out at work? If not, pop over. I owe you a cuppa. I have sugar too ;-)
Hi Jags

Hows it going good I hope ... mate id like to take up ur offer of cuppa and at the same time see demo of your cinema... may be pinch some of your ideas. ..
 

DrGekko

Well-known Member
Salaams yaar..

Yeah I have been doing loads of reading setting the room up... I think I have finally got the layout down... just still scratching my head about how to deal with the vaulted ceiling ...
As far as the kit goes ive changed my mind about the anamorphic lens... especially as the PJ I have now allows u to change the aspect on it... instead I am looking to use that money towards other things ... like building a diy sub cos a nice tight sounding sub is better the having the lens...
Good for you... if you want some tips of sub design, I suggest contact GeckoDan or read his advice over on subs forums.

Regarding the vaulted ceiling, not sure what you had planned but at Gecko Home Cinema, the 'Reeves Room' was designed using large reflective panels, suspended by chains from the ceiling - I suggest you go and take a look. Possibly save you a lot of cash?

I really like your graphically rendered design idea... make sure you post plenty of pics for us all over on the gallery section... should be a cracking project!
 

aim-n-shoot

Active Member
Good for you... if you want some tips of sub design, I suggest contact GeckoDan or read his advice over on subs forums.

Regarding the vaulted ceiling, not sure what you had planned but at Gecko Home Cinema, the 'Reeves Room' was designed using large reflective panels, suspended by chains from the ceiling - I suggest you go and take a look. Possibly save you a lot of cash?

I really like your graphically rendered design idea... make sure you post plenty of pics for us all over on the gallery section... should be a cracking project!
I will try post loads of pic as I can. Because I know I have loved looking at other peoples projects so it would only be only fair to return the favour. :)


I hope the final build is as good as the rendering. . If it is I will be chuffed. Lol...

Funny you mention Dan, that's where I got the idea from other wise I was going to buy off the shelf.
 

aim-n-shoot

Active Member
Ok on the way home from work... I thought to keep the project going and to keep the momentum going .. id do a to do list. This way I will be able to keep track and judge progress.
Chase cables
Run cables speaker & hdmi & sub.
Run power cable to fuse sp for pj.
Move pwr socket.
Fill in the chased sections

Final check for projector location
Build projector mounting point.

Prep for paint ceiling and walls

Prep pj scree n area for paint
Build frame around pj screen area ..may be...

Build bass traps
Build acoustic panels

That's it for now...
 
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aim-n-shoot

Active Member
Ok so after dinner I thought id finish of the chaseing of cables... it took longer than I expected because my trusty sds drill broke down. This meant I had to use the old hammer and chisel. .

Here what I got done today....
chase channel to move pwr socket from the screen area and also made a space where all the cables will exit.

1376611410936.jpg
J
Also finished channel for the sround sound cables... at a height of
140 cm at right angle s to the seating area..

I plan to have a 7.1/.2surround sound. But as u can see I have limited options on where I can place the rear speakers. One of them will need to be mounted onto ceiling like the one in the project below .


http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=18869987


Btw I really had to push my self to start working on the project today... do any of you guys experience the same or is it just me...
 

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