Probs with Subwoofer Cutting Out, compatibility issue Tannoy / Onkyo

Discussion in 'Subwoofers' started by U2eeee, Jun 15, 2008.

  1. U2eeee

    U2eeee
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    Hi All
    Just wondering if anyone else has had a similiar problem with their subwoofer cutting out. i have the Tannoy Highline 500 speaker package and have been running this with a Denon 2807 av amp for the last 14 months, all has been fine except never been too happy with stereo sound so i decided to upgrade amp to the Onkyo SR 875, all was fine for the 1st week or so, good decision i have made i thought, then the sub started cutting out after about 10 mins, tried various settings etc, but to no avail. Took sub down to local hi-fi shop where it was connected to output from tv for a good hour and no cut out, came home, connected to my tv output, all fine again, back into amp, cuts out after 10 mins, must be a problem with the amp me thinks!!!! Returned amp to place where it came and am being told that it is working fine with a pioneer sub :confused: and it has been tested for a full day. Spoken to Onkyo and Tannoy, neither particularly want to know other than suggesting it is the other peice of equipment, or a compatibility problem? hi fi shop in Bolton sort of trying to help but won't replace amp cos they say it is fine although when i get it back i know that i will have same prob. Very very frustrated, have spent a lot of cash :eek: and looks like i'll have a system that wont work properly. Can anyone help or have had similiar probs
    Many Thanks:lease:
     
  2. DVDANDY

    DVDANDY
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  3. U2eeee

    U2eeee
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    £2300 for the Tannoy Highline 500, don't know your wealth but not cheap in my book
     
  4. DVDANDY

    DVDANDY
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  5. cribeiro

    cribeiro
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    Some questions first:

    How is the sub connected to the amp?
    Do you run the sub very loud?
    What are your AVR and subwoofer settings?

    I understand cut-off as the subwoofer amplifier going into protection mode because it is way too loud.
    Could it be that the sub is going into stand-by because the signal is too low, instead? If this is your problem, try setting the sub to "on" instead of "auto", or turn the volume know in the sub lower, and then balance this with turning up the subwoofer gain in the amplifier.
     
  6. U2eeee

    U2eeee
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    Thats ok, no offence taken, Yeah, thats the set although i have 4 floorstanders, centre and sub( not that that makes any difference), connected by qed cable from sub output on amp into input on sub (red input) after trawling through pages today i think you might well be right about the sub going into protection mode, as soon as i get my amp back ( shop in Bolton, me in London, think i'm paying the real price of internet shopping!!!) i will try the settings you suggest. Have tried sub with setting on "ON" instead of "AUTO" and that didn't make any difference pre sending amp back to shop
    Mike
     
  7. Member 96948

    Member 96948
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    £2300 for a package unfortunately, does not mean you get a good sub or one that is capable of playing sustained high volumes - even more so if the room is large. A quick Google shows that the Highline subwoofer only retails for £300 by it self and is hardly a monster. Subs have never been a Tannoy strength although I can't personally recall too many problems reported round these parts apart from one bloke with a dodgy TS-8.

    It does sound like a thermal protection issue to me, I must say.

    Russell
     
  8. U2eeee

    U2eeee
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    Fair point, appreciate the thought, am getting amp back tomorrow so will play around again, havn't seen the TS500 sub that cheap, seen it for £495.00 but thats the best
    Mike
     
  9. Member 96948

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    Ah! It's that one. 22L, 12" driver and 500w. My bad.:blush:

    It should be able to thunder out some fair volume, although if Audyssey is trying to add any sort of boost low down (Tannoy quote a -6dB point of 26Hz, which isn't that low) then it'll be running pretty damn hard if the room is large. 500w sounds like a lot, but it soon gets eaten up in a sealed box when you get into the mid to low 20Hz region.

    The trick will be to replicate the shutdown conditions and time how long it takes. Then, having allowed everything plenty of time to cool, try it again 3dB lower. This doesn't sound like it's a lot quieter, but this actually requires half the power which should run things cooler. It may still shut down, but it should take a lot longer to do it. That's the theory......

    Russell
     

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