Problems with Panasonic DMR-E85H

Gavtech

Administrator

garyleeoz

Standard Member
I just did an internet search of Australian parts suppliers for the Voltage Regulator chip mentioned in these posts. One supplier quoted a price similar to the Nikko UK price (for a Sanken made chip) however another supplier quoted a price that was 3x as much for a component that they describe as "STRG6353 IC Panasonic". Does anyone know if Panasonic used the Sanken chip for all their DMR-E85H recorders or did they change to another chip manufacturer later on :lease: ?
 

Fred Smith

Well-known Member
It's the same situation here in the UK, Sanken IC about GBP5.00, Panasonic original part from SEME about GBP20.00. But both should be from the same manufacturer.
 

garyleeoz

Standard Member
:thumbsup: I tried increasing the ventilation underneath my DMR-E85H by sitting it on two blocks of wood that I placed underneath the left and right edges of the machine (I didn't have any spare bits of 50mm plastic drainpipe on hand to try Gavtech's idea). Anyway, it seems to have improved things for me. eg. I just DUBBed a 130 min program from HDD to a DVD-RAM disc in FR mode (which I can then load up onto another DVD recorder or onto my computer to burn onto a DVD-R disc) whereas I couldn't do this before. I could only do high speed DUBs of up to 50 mins before my machine would switch off and I would then lose the copied program from the DVD-RAM disc.
 
M

Mr-T

Guest
Well thanks to the earlier mentioned repair steps, I have successfully repaired my DMR-E85H by replacing the Voltage Regulator Component. Machine is running as it should (at last, no more 'Self-Check' messages).
I have actually gone one further and added a bigger HeatSink to the component and also raised the HD AND installed a second cooling fan which cost no more than "£5.00"
If anyone is interested, I will gladly write down exactly how and what I have done but it needs the use of an electric drill and a few other cutting tools. I have soak tested the machine and the component is cool all the time...just one thing, you will hear an extra fan but its better than having to get a new machine or it repaired every 12 months.
In all repair took about 2 hours and much of that was drilling and making sure second fan was in exact position
 

Fred Smith

Well-known Member
AND installed a second cooling fan which cost no more than "£5.00"

Is that actually necessary?

I modded mine so that the stock fan runs 24/7, been fine for the last five months.
 
M

Mr-T

Guest
I think it was necessary...The pcb gets very hot with the confined space and the heat that has no where to go. My mod has made a vast improvement and as mentioned earlier in this section, Panasonic and have actually realised now that the power failure due to lack of ventilation is a design fault. To sum up, these recorders are not cheap and I have now taken further steps for the unit not to over heat in the future. I thank this thread on this site for the help and advice for I was about to put the unit in the shed.
So thankyou everyone for very useful advice
 

Annie_M

Standard Member
Hi folks, I know I'm very late replying to this one, but my e85 started messing about with this fault last year. It eventually became unuseable, so without having any other info to go on, i powered the HDD from a bench supply, which seemed to fix the probs, but not for long!

The machine has been sent to a Panasonic distributor but Dear old Panasonic aren't replying even to his queries. Seems they have truly dumped this one in the bin. My belief is they didn't do their sums correctly in the design department on a few fronts, eg. guaging the potential heating within the cabinet; de-rating of components under the resulting heat stress, Yada Yada...

Nope, I'm going to get my machine back from my friend, get the regulator specified above (well done you guy's for sourcing it!) & replace it. The one thing I had thought about was mounting it on a decent heatsink and possibly outside the cabinet... are there any HF lines that would require de-coupling?? Otherwise, a nice BIG fan etc, and raising the HDD to increase airflow...then we wait for the analogue switch-off!
Thanks to all fr the research. Oh, and if nobodies done it already, I'm posting this entire thread to Pan-a-sonic, along with avery snotty note stating my displeasure.:smashin:
 

Mike1011

Standard Member
Thanks for all the information on this thread.
I managed to keep my E85H working over the Christmas and New Year period by leaving it on 24/7 (no self-check). Unfortunately on Saturday I pressed the red DVD button on the remote control by mistake. After that the E85H was dead (blank display, no sign of life).
Following Leslie’s advice (post 114) I ordered a voltage regulator IC STR-G6353 from Nikko Electronics on Saturday. My local TV repair shop (Sonic Television, Southampton) fitted it to the PCB board on Wednesday (no charge just a £2 contribution to the tea fund).
The E85H now works perfectly.
Thanks Leslie for the step by step instructions which made the job so easy.
 
J

jdelbarton

Guest
Many thanks for the posts on the Panasonic DMR E85H dvd recorder on this forum and other forums about the : SELF CHECK : problem which goes into a continuous loop taking 10 minutes to 30 minutes before the recorder will sign on or may be just not sign on at all (DEAD) or other problems.
Mine developed this fault about 2 years after I purchase and the machine had very little use mainly recording to the hard drive. It finally died on me.

Reading the forums I decided to do the repair it myself
The problem is that it as a poorly designed PSU (power supply) NOT COOLING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR…….IC part No. STRG6353 made by SANKEN ELECTRONICS in China .This is marked on the PCB board IC 001.
THE PART IC STR-G6353 CAN BE PURCHASED AT NIKKO ELECTRONICS FOR AROUND £5 EACH I bought 2 one for a spare over the internet with next day delivery………………………www.nikkoe.com

THE REPAIR
1. DOING THIS IS ENTIRELY YOUR OWN RISK AND I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONABLE FOR ANY DAMAGE OR INJURIES INCURED.
2. DISCONECT ALL MAINS POWER AND REMOVE MOULDED TWO PIN PLUG FROM RECORDER.
3. Remove top cover….one large silver screw at each side…..three small black screws on the back.
4. Remove the hard drive top retaining metal cover which as the black ribbon cable also attached to it then pull out the ribbon cable from the hard drive CAREFULLY then also pull out the power connection plug to the hard drive remove hard drive
5. You will see that there is a plastic rubber moulded insulator to reduce vibration from the hard drive….remove this.
6. Remove the bottom hard drive retaining plate (four screws) to get access to the power supply PCB board.
7. Removing the PSU board (card)….Remove the small black screw where the mains electric enters the machine then lift off the multi jumper that conects to the main board pull and gently tilt towards you.
This should take an average twenty minutes at most to get the card out.
8. I took the card and the IC to a local T.V repair shop who took just five minutes to replace WHICH I RECOMMEND BECAUSE THE CARD IS DOUBLE SIDED WITH VERY SMALL SURFACE MOUNTED COMPONENTS WHICH CAN BE DESTROYED VERY EASILY.They charged me £5
9. RE-ASSEMBLE

Worked fine for me without having to replace any more components.

Hope this helps without getting ripped off for the repair.
This forum is giving me hope. I have the DMR-E100H with the self test loop problem. Any idea whether the same fix would work (replacing part number STRG6353 on the PSU)? I've confirmed that the RAM Drive and hard drive are working. I've gotten the PSU out, but don't see anything with STRG6353 printed on it. What does this part look like (I've found it at several sites, but can't find a picture).

Thanks in advance for any help.
 

shadows

Active Member
help managed to get my board out but cant find the part i have to that look like the picture but none are ic one is d02 the other d03 can anybody help please
 

Hal_loe

Active Member
help managed to get my board out but cant find the part i have to that look like the picture but none are ic one is d02 the other d03 can anybody help please

The voltage regulator STRG 6353 has 5 legs and is bolted to the big metal heat sink. Viewable from the top of the board.

The diodes d02 and d03 are soldered very close to the STRG 6353.

The surface mount diode is located on the underside of the board.

Hope that helps.
 

Baj

Standard Member
My DMR85-E85HEBS, just over two years old, a week ago, went the way of many others (self check etc.).

I bought a DMR-EX75 to replace it.

I was going to chuck it, but having read the last few pages of this thread, this would be a shame if it can be fixed and used.

OFFER:- If you want it for free (yes gratis), are prepared to collect it from Canterbury, and have a fixed line telephone number, then PM me.

I will also throw in about 100 DVD-R 4x blanks (I have no use for them).

I will not post it.

Cheers

Baj
 

Annie_M

Standard Member
Just as a matter of interest, does anyone have, or know where to find a datasheet or specification for this regulator? The 6353 seems to not exist on any datasheet sites; and are there any less exotic regulators that will do the job - possibly better?

Looking at it's cousins from Sanken it seems to be a switch-mode chip or maybe related to a flyback switch. Any thoughts/insights appreciated.

A
 

Fred Smith

Well-known Member
It's switch mode, flyback is used in CRT TV's and monitors.

It only cost £5.00 so why bother looking for less exotic regulators that may do the job?

Cooling is the answer, make the PSU fan run 24/7, a very easy mod.
 

ROYOLD

Well-known Member
Actually the price for this IC regulator works out quite expensive for what it is :

Nikko Electronics price is £6-33 plus the minimum postage of £4-99 to which is added £1-96 vat. Grand total £13-28.

I was considering obtaining one as a spare (just in case!) but at the above price have decided against it.
 

Fred Smith

Well-known Member
If you think that is expensive the sourced part from SEME, Panasonic's UK parts distributor is nearly £25!
 

ROYOLD

Well-known Member
It's only a 12V regulator chip. I wasn't thinking of soucing from Panasonic. My E85H shows no signs of failing yet either and I've had it over thirty months.

Should be a similar type available cheaper.
 

Annie_M

Standard Member
Hmm. I'm not too sure it is just a 12v regulator. Judging by it's cousins (ie 6653 etc), it looks like it may the chopper for reducing the mains side to something manageable. In which case and after a little thought, I think it's probably best to swallow the £13 price tag and play safe.

Btw, I'm sure it is just a heating problem at first, but the way the fault develops i suspect the chip ends up fried as the machine doesn't bother starting even when cold!
 

ROYOLD

Well-known Member
I'm pretty sure if you purchased a 100 or so then the price would drastically reduce. You may be right in accepting £13 as a small price to pay for a repair.
Saves you the time of finding a suitable alternative plus needing a firm which will supply a one-off item.

Still - the firms which will supply a one off item and then charge almost as much postage as the product costs annoy me. Probably why I have never used e-bay (and don't intend doing either!).
 

Jules

Distinguished Member
I've just joined the broken E85 club too. Mine started mis-behaving last week as I inserted a DVD... it just went off and went into an endless reboot cycle.
My machine is 2 years old by the way and has seen very, very little use.
I seriously hardly use it... so this is obviously a design fault.

I've just dis-assembled the machine to see if I could do the job of replacing the guilty component before I order it. I didn't want to order it only to find out the job was too difficult!!
Good news... the job doesn't look to tricky really.

Removing the PSU board took me about 10 minutes, and the solder points on the component (there are 5 of them) look sufficiently spaced for me to try soldering myself.

I really couldn't be bothered taking it to a dodgy TV repair shop, and I'd rather take full satisfaction from fixing it all myself.

The part should arrive next week, so I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks everybody.:)
 

garyleeoz

Standard Member
:smashin: Hi Jules... I think the hardest part of the job would be to remove the old chip without overheating the other components on the board....I sometimes have problems removing old solder using desolder wick (although a soldering iron with temperature control or a thermostat might help). Getting advice about soldering Surface Mounted Components through the Internet may also help....eg. One website suggests painting flux (using a flux pen)onto the IC's pins (or legs) and onto the pads onto which the IC will be mounted and then tin the pads with solder. They said that you don't apply heat directly onto the IC pins but to the solder on the pads since too much heat may destroy the IC....although you run the risk of making a dry joint if you don't heat up the solder enough. They also suggest using a "low melting point solder" (which has some silver in it) which is supposed to flow better than standard 60/40 solder but I've had problems using it because it tends to "ball up" when I heat it (however this could be my soldering iron at fault). Also, it's a good idea to "tack solder" a corner pin, check the alignment of the remaining pins (are they all still sitting on their respective pads ?) and then solder the pin on the opposite corner, after which you can solder the remaining pins and then redo that first pin.

So far my only experience with soldering Surface Mounted chips is with building a "video stabilser" kit that has 2 of them however this didn't involve removing any old chips or old solder. Anyway, I think I'll try "murdering" a couple of SM chips on some obsolete computer video or sound card before I try replacing my STRG6353.
 

rich_jtg

Active Member
I've just seen this thread, and it reminded me of problems I was having with my E85 at the end of 2005. [original thread]

It turned out to be the power supply as mentioned here, but there was also an upgraded version of the firmware posted by a member called illustrator that made the unit more reliable, and accept faster discs. It might be of interest/use of some people, though the newer batches probably came with the updated firmware.

There are instructions on the full thread on how to check the firmware version, and how to burn the firmware disc.

I remember some people lost their multiregion facility when they updated theirs, but mine was left in place.

As with all firmware flashes, read the instructions, and don't do it if you're not confident!
 

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