Problem with Intempo RDI

Anyone out there know where I can buy a replacement PSU for my Intempo RDi, I managed to fry mine whilst trying to replace the capacitor following the instructions in this thread. Should have left it for an expert!
 
Well, I'm another faulty Intempo RDi owner who has just discovered this forum and thread! Ordered the parts - fingers crossed, I'll report back when I've attempted the repair!
 
The fixed worked perfectly once again! Well done to beetleseb for identifying this problem and thanks to all who have added to the ease with which this repair can be carried out. Shame that the manufacturer hasn't stepped in with a plan to sort an obviously common fault in an otherwise decent bit of gear. Thanks also, to Maplin who had the part with me in under 24 hours (£2.99 postage for a 49p part is a bit steep, but it beats driving several miles in this weather)!
 
Just signed up to this forum to try and shed a bit more light on the power suppy problem on the RDi01.
I have changed all the caps except the 22uf 440v ones and still have the same problem eg: it works for about 3minutes then power seems to drop and cuts off only when it gets warm.
The main heat sink seems to get very hot,but the smaller on does not get warm at all.
I tried to contact the maker in china but no response
Any feedback would be very welcome.
Just wonder if it is worth changing the large caps but maplin don't seem to hve them.:rolleyes:
 
hi guys, this was great!
unfortunately I got a soldering iron and come capacitors and did the repair as suggested but there is still no sound! The display works but I can't change stations. I can change the function but regardless no sound comes out of the speakers!
Any ideas?
 
There's one of these going on Ebay in about 10 minutes for under a tenner delivered at present. Sold as not fully working so might be worth a shot for someone....
 
Like Tron1275 I have problems with the RDi02 (or RD102, same thing). My iPod Touch now doesn't recognise the RD102 when I put it in the dock. Has anybody fixed this model? Please???
 
Had 2 of them and both failed same way - ipod charging stops after a while, display goes dull and power is cutting out when volume is turned up. Switching fet is boiling hot when this happens.

After 2 days of digging in psu finally got them repaired and currently soaking them to make sure this is permanent fix.

Will let you all know soon how things are going. Fingers crossed...
 
Mod Edit: quoted post removed

Are you having a laugh or did you not read the thread? :lease:

49p for a capacitor and following of instructions in this thread is all that is needed as is clearly shown by the number of people who have done exactly that already!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
this is for those who have tried the one cap fix that does not solve the power shutdown at high volume and the fault on the rdi 02 vol up down and power off problems

Ok, so as a new member why not give some loving and share the details of the fix to everyone as was done for the original problem?

You say a little skill is still needed which suggests the fix is not that difficult so giving up the details would gain you lots of thanks.

You can offer your services of actually fixing anyone's box that does not feel comfortable doing it themselves.
 
yes gb your 100% right ok here is my love, the main fault with the rdi 01 is the opto on the psu this is part of the feedback circuit
so when the vol is turned up, the psu cannot supply the current needed, so replacing opto solves this, a faulty batch of
opto couplers is the cause, please note the opto has a small dot on it please make sure the you put in the correct
way round if you do not you will do damage to the psu, if you have done this i can tell you how to solve your now dead psu, just ask about faults and i will spread the love

Thanks, we're getting there :smashin:

Is the octocoupler any of those available from Maplin?
Maplin Electronics : Optocouplers

If not a part number would be great so folks can order one up themselves.

I take it there is only 1 octocoupler on the PCB that would need addressing, so hopefully it should be easy to find.
 
hi gb not maplins but rs have it and farnells i will post the part numbers in morning the little opto is on a sub pcb on the psu a good replacment about 1.50
 
the part required is SHARP - PC817X1J000F please note when fitting this part you will require a desoldering pump or braid, the four holes that the part fits in to are, through plated and if you make a poor job of removing opto coupler you will pull out the through platting,
if you have done this,

you must solder top and bottom of opto couplers legs or the psu will be dead

Mod Edit: edited to conform to forum rules
 
Last edited by a moderator:
audiotec said:
the part required is SHARP - PC817X1J000F please note when fitting this part you will require a desoldering pump or braid, the four holes that the part fits in to are, through plated and if you make a poor job of removing opto coupler you will pull out the through platting,
if you have done this,

you must solder top and bottom of opto couplers legs or the psu will be dead

Mod Edit: edited to conform to forum rules

Thanks audiotec, this is great information to have and I hope it helps people out :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi Audiotec,
Do you have the RS part number for the SHARP - PC817X1J000F. Have searched on there website, with no results. Tried farnells and they have a minimum order of 20.. OR can you supply.
Thanks in advance.....
chris E
 
Thanks for getting back to me, i've now sourced them through work..
 
Just wanted to thank everybody for their excellent advice, our RDI lost its sound after 4 years, opened it up and replaced the capacitor thing for 49p and hey presto we have sound!!!!!

cheers all


Barty
 
Thank you very much to everyone who has put together the repair on here. I was just about to bin my RDI (great ipod dock/lousy company) and fork out £150 for a different make when I saw this thread. 49p later it's up and running.
Many, many thanks!
 
With some trepidation I finally took the plunge and changed the dead capacitor on my RDI. To my amazement the job was pretty straightforward (even for someone like me who hasn't a clue about working with circuit boards) and the thing has burst into life again. God bless the internet! The scariest part was was removing the face-plate and I did need an extra pair of hands to help ease out the old capacitor.

Many, many thanks for Beetleseb for finding the cause and JohnSpencer for his easy to follow guide. Brilliant!
 
Hi

I know this is an old thread but I had the same problem with mine. I opened it up and found a 10v 1000mf cap had gone on the psu board. Got a new one from maplins for 46p, soldered it in and now works fine.

You need to be careful with the faceplate as I cracked mine getting it off

Good luck

Seb

Hi Seb,

Just wanted to add my thanks to the loads already here - I followed all the instructions (thanks to everyone else too) and my much-loved iNtempo RDi is now back in action. In fact, it seems clearer somehow too!:)

To anyone else who has found their way here, the instructions work a treat and is an easy repair - just take your time and it'll be fine!

Thanks again,
Ian
 
thanks for all the great advice. sadly this 1 fix all hasn't worked for me.
the intempo unit broke after 2 years. we got a replacement which broke after 14 months. the sound would break up after 5 minutes on and the display would fade to nothing.
replaced the capacitor yesterday ( aye...49p ) and all seemed good for 15 mins until the display started to fade again and the sound started breaking up after about 20 mins. so....an improvement , but it's still goosed!
any further advice ?
thank you all.
 
thanks for all the great advice. sadly this 1 fix all hasn't worked for me.
the intempo unit broke after 2 years. we got a replacement which broke after 14 months. the sound would break up after 5 minutes on and the display would fade to nothing.
replaced the capacitor yesterday ( aye...49p ) and all seemed good for 15 mins until the display started to fade again and the sound started breaking up after about 20 mins. so....an improvement , but it's still goosed!
any further advice ?
thank you all.

Did you try the opto suggestion offered up by audiotec? You may have to see me quoting audiotec as well as posts by audiotec to get the full picture of what is required.
 
Found this thread yesterday when my Intempo RDI died. I haven't used a soldering iron in years, but after a quick trip to Maplins for a new capacitor (and a soldering iron and some solder), I followed the instructions in the posts above and now it's working perfectly.

It's important to read all the info in the posts above, but to summarize:

A capacitor on the power supply unit seems prone to failure, possibly because it gets so hot. All you need to fix the unit is a new capacitor, a soldering iron, some solder and a screwdriver.

I would recommend taking the unit apart and identifying the capacitor you need before buying one.

1. Unplug from mains and disconnect power lead.

2. Remove speaker cover on front of RDI – this should just pop off. It's held by eight or so connectors, but as long as you don't bend it too much, you should have no problem. This will reveal 8 deep screw holes.

3. Remove the front panel. This is glued in place. You'll need a thin screwdriver blade or a sharp knife to slide under the panel and cut through the glue. It's easy to scratch the RDI or break the front panel so take your time. Once it's off you'll see it was only held in place by a few blobs of glue.

4. Behind the front panel are 4 further screw holes. Unscrew all 12 screws, keep them safe, and you can open up the RDI.

5. Be careful because the back part of the unit (with a speaker and the power supply unit) is connected to the front by a couple of wires. These are relatively easy to remove – just pull the connectors off the circuit board in the front part of the unit.

6. The power supply unit is the small circuit board in the back part of the unit, held in place by four screws. There are also connectors from the mains connection to the PSU, and from the PSU to the body of the RDI which you need to remove. They should pull off quite easily. All the connectors you have removed are different, so there shouldn't be a problem putting them back afterwards, but you should note where the wires go, so that when you put the unit back together, you don't trap anything in the wrong place

7. Once you have removed the PSU, you can find the dead capacitor. There are a number of black cylindrical capacitors with grey writing and silver tops. The one you want measures 10mm in diameter and is 15mm tall. It should say 10v 1000µf and XL (M)105°C. The circuit board is quite densely packed, so it's not that easy to identify – it's next to a yellow coil. Chris_E above has posted a picture to help.

8. The easiest way to remove the capacitor is to turn the PSU upside down, and with a soldering iron, melt the solder holding it to the board. Once I did this, I found I could push the legs of the capacitor up with the soldering iron, and then use a pair of pliers to gently remove the capacitor.

9. Take the old capacitor to Maplins and ask for one just like it – they have 16 volt and not 10 volt, but that should work fine. Try getting one with the same temperature rating (105°C) as Thirst4Know says above. (Maplin code DT69A: 1000uF 16V).

10. If you removed the old capacitor carefully, you should be able to poke the new capacitor's legs through the holes on the circuit board. Make sure it goes the same way round as the old one (the marking on the circuit board should help)

11. Solder the legs in place on the printed circuit board side, clip off the excess legs, and you're nearly there. I have always been terrible at soldering, but it's difficult to get it completely wrong.

12. Now put everything back together – screw the power supply unit back in (this can be quite fiddly - you might need tweezers, a magnetic screwdriver or a small child to help you), reconnect it, then connect the back part to the front circuit board and close up the unit. It shouldn't take too much force unless you have trapped a wire somewhere. Now put back all 12 screws. The speaker cover should pop back with no problem, and the face plate should still be sticky with old glue and will hold by itself.

13. Plug it in, switch it on and be amazed that it works.

14. Feel absurdly proud of yourself for finding this thread and following the simple instructions.

15. Ponder how beetleseb figured out the solution in the first place.

I am absolutely amazed all the functions now work perfectly, no whistling at all!

I snapped the front panel into 2 pieces over the display even though I pulled it very gently using plastic thing and a flat driver, but that doesn't matter.

It took me ages to unscrew the screws as they were very tight and a bit stuck sometimes.

I couldn't resist the temptation to not pop one of the speaker cones, but some tape managed to pull it back up. DON'T POP/PUSH IT! :laugh:

Luckily someone from my local church is an electrical engineer so he soldered the capacitor on for me.

I yanked the old capacitor off (bit risky...) and took it to Maplins,
but just ask for a 16v 1000µf 105°C capacitor, it was 49p for 1,
or solder yours off if you have an iron and take it there, but it's easier to do that later.

I watched him do it, and he used a solder iron to melt the solder holding the back of the capacitor legs, and he used a suction thing to take the old capacitor legs off as I left them (suction thing so we didn't have to wait for cooling), as they needed to be melt off round the back...

Then he just pushed the new capacitor through the right way
( I think the shorter leg should go through the right hole, the longer the left, but just in case I'm wrong, notice which way when you take your capacitor out ),
soldered it round the back, then clipped the excess legs.

Then he plugged the things back in and turned the power on and the radio worked instead of the hissing/whistling! (Note, you must leave a few minutes if you do this until you touch the insides, because he said he didn't wait once and touched a capacitor accidentally under a desk, and he got badly electrocuted ( from a large one ), because he didn't wait long enough for the charge to go. )

Then I screwed everything back together and it works beautifully ( you can just push the panel and speaker cover on hard as it should still stick.

Only thing I don't like is it can only play from my iPhone 3G if I take my plastic case off, but I'm just being lazy. :laugh:

Anyways, good luck with yours.
 
Last edited:

The latest video from AVForums

Is 4K Blu-ray Worth It?
Subscribe to our YouTube channel
Back
Top Bottom