Anyone out there know where I can buy a replacement PSU for my Intempo RDi, I managed to fry mine whilst trying to replace the capacitor following the instructions in this thread. Should have left it for an expert!
Mod Edit: quoted post removed
this is for those who have tried the one cap fix that does not solve the power shutdown at high volume and the fault on the rdi 02 vol up down and power off problems
yes gb your 100% right ok here is my love, the main fault with the rdi 01 is the opto on the psu this is part of the feedback circuit
so when the vol is turned up, the psu cannot supply the current needed, so replacing opto solves this, a faulty batch of
opto couplers is the cause, please note the opto has a small dot on it please make sure the you put in the correct
way round if you do not you will do damage to the psu, if you have done this i can tell you how to solve your now dead psu, just ask about faults and i will spread the love
hi gb not maplins but rs have it and farnells i will post the part numbers in morning the little opto is on a sub pcb on the psu a good replacment about 1.50
audiotec said:the part required is SHARP - PC817X1J000F please note when fitting this part you will require a desoldering pump or braid, the four holes that the part fits in to are, through plated and if you make a poor job of removing opto coupler you will pull out the through platting,
if you have done this,
you must solder top and bottom of opto couplers legs or the psu will be dead
Mod Edit: edited to conform to forum rules
Hi
I know this is an old thread but I had the same problem with mine. I opened it up and found a 10v 1000mf cap had gone on the psu board. Got a new one from maplins for 46p, soldered it in and now works fine.
You need to be careful with the faceplate as I cracked mine getting it off
Good luck
Seb
thanks for all the great advice. sadly this 1 fix all hasn't worked for me.
the intempo unit broke after 2 years. we got a replacement which broke after 14 months. the sound would break up after 5 minutes on and the display would fade to nothing.
replaced the capacitor yesterday ( aye...49p ) and all seemed good for 15 mins until the display started to fade again and the sound started breaking up after about 20 mins. so....an improvement , but it's still goosed!
any further advice ?
thank you all.
Found this thread yesterday when my Intempo RDI died. I haven't used a soldering iron in years, but after a quick trip to Maplins for a new capacitor (and a soldering iron and some solder), I followed the instructions in the posts above and now it's working perfectly.
It's important to read all the info in the posts above, but to summarize:
A capacitor on the power supply unit seems prone to failure, possibly because it gets so hot. All you need to fix the unit is a new capacitor, a soldering iron, some solder and a screwdriver.
I would recommend taking the unit apart and identifying the capacitor you need before buying one.
1. Unplug from mains and disconnect power lead.
2. Remove speaker cover on front of RDI – this should just pop off. It's held by eight or so connectors, but as long as you don't bend it too much, you should have no problem. This will reveal 8 deep screw holes.
3. Remove the front panel. This is glued in place. You'll need a thin screwdriver blade or a sharp knife to slide under the panel and cut through the glue. It's easy to scratch the RDI or break the front panel so take your time. Once it's off you'll see it was only held in place by a few blobs of glue.
4. Behind the front panel are 4 further screw holes. Unscrew all 12 screws, keep them safe, and you can open up the RDI.
5. Be careful because the back part of the unit (with a speaker and the power supply unit) is connected to the front by a couple of wires. These are relatively easy to remove – just pull the connectors off the circuit board in the front part of the unit.
6. The power supply unit is the small circuit board in the back part of the unit, held in place by four screws. There are also connectors from the mains connection to the PSU, and from the PSU to the body of the RDI which you need to remove. They should pull off quite easily. All the connectors you have removed are different, so there shouldn't be a problem putting them back afterwards, but you should note where the wires go, so that when you put the unit back together, you don't trap anything in the wrong place
7. Once you have removed the PSU, you can find the dead capacitor. There are a number of black cylindrical capacitors with grey writing and silver tops. The one you want measures 10mm in diameter and is 15mm tall. It should say 10v 1000µf and XL (M)105°C. The circuit board is quite densely packed, so it's not that easy to identify – it's next to a yellow coil. Chris_E above has posted a picture to help.
8. The easiest way to remove the capacitor is to turn the PSU upside down, and with a soldering iron, melt the solder holding it to the board. Once I did this, I found I could push the legs of the capacitor up with the soldering iron, and then use a pair of pliers to gently remove the capacitor.
9. Take the old capacitor to Maplins and ask for one just like it – they have 16 volt and not 10 volt, but that should work fine. Try getting one with the same temperature rating (105°C) as Thirst4Know says above. (Maplin code DT69A: 1000uF 16V).
10. If you removed the old capacitor carefully, you should be able to poke the new capacitor's legs through the holes on the circuit board. Make sure it goes the same way round as the old one (the marking on the circuit board should help)
11. Solder the legs in place on the printed circuit board side, clip off the excess legs, and you're nearly there. I have always been terrible at soldering, but it's difficult to get it completely wrong.
12. Now put everything back together – screw the power supply unit back in (this can be quite fiddly - you might need tweezers, a magnetic screwdriver or a small child to help you), reconnect it, then connect the back part to the front circuit board and close up the unit. It shouldn't take too much force unless you have trapped a wire somewhere. Now put back all 12 screws. The speaker cover should pop back with no problem, and the face plate should still be sticky with old glue and will hold by itself.
13. Plug it in, switch it on and be amazed that it works.
14. Feel absurdly proud of yourself for finding this thread and following the simple instructions.
15. Ponder how beetleseb figured out the solution in the first place.