Question Possible upgrade from dual XXLS400 subs

Hello,

Are you interested for psa 15v?
Is not small or big.
Remaining warranty 4 years from ricky.
It dig deep and sound very good and loud.

If you are interest let me know.

Thanks
Thanks, but I'll wait until I can have a listen to someone's set up before I make a decision, might be some time though!
 
If you still want to hear <10Hz without a TR device, I'm always up for a demo (global pandemics notwithstanding)
 
If you still want to hear <10Hz without a TR device, I'm always up for a demo (global pandemics notwithstanding)
I'd love to have a demo at some point!
2 good demo offers now, thanks guys! One all subs and one with TR added, perfect!
Might be some time though the way things are going!
 
Hmmm, spied an Arendal Sub 2 in the classifieds, it would squeeze in the front left space or fit easily in the rear right position.
Would it be a bad idea to go from dual subs to a single? Probably hard to say I guess 😅
 
Any thoughts on the Arendal Sub 2?
REW room sim doesn't look great, but nothing looks great on the sim for my room, it's nearly square at L 4.12m x W 4m x H 2.3m, presume that's not helping or I'm not using the sim correctly!

Only room correction is XT32 and SubEQ HT on the Denon 3500H
 
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Any thoughts on the Arendal Sub 2?
REW room sim doesn't look great, but nothing looks great on the sim for my room, it's nearly square at L 4.12m x W 4m x H 2.3m, presume that's not helping or I'm not using the sim correctly!

Only room correction is XT32 and SubEQ HT on the Denon 3500H

Room Sim should work pretty well below about 100 Hz. It's when rooms aren't rectangular/square that it doesn't.
 
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Room Sim should work pretty well below about 100 Hz. It's when rooms aren't rectangular/square stat it doesn't.
I was more thinking that the results aren't great because the room is nearly sqaure rather than room sim not working well?
Ot maybe I'm putting the data in wrong or something?

I'll get a screenshot
 
This is what I have just got using the dual XXLS400's, wasn't sure what to put for the LF Hz, BK say -3db lower than 20hz.
Do I have anything wrong there?

sim.jpg
 
Allowing the subs to be time aligned individually will give you a slightly improved response.
Both in the back corners seems to improve things slightly further, but only just, and introduces a sharp null at about 100Hz.

Your crossover seems high?
 

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Allowing the subs to be time aligned individually will give you a slightly improved response.
Both in the back corners seems to improve things slightly further, but only just, and introduces a sharp null at about 100Hz.

Your crossover seems high?
Cheers for that, helpful. I was told to leave the crossover at 120hz for lfe?

On paper the Arendal Sub 2 looks good and the width fits in my space, but not many reviews out there. Just a little worried going from 2 lesser dual subs to one better single sub!
 
I have dual Arendal Sub 2's, also have a single BK XXLS400 in another room. The BK is excellent given its price point, but the Arendal's are in a different league (and so they should be given the price difference).

I'd be looking at dual Arendal Sub 1S or Sub 1's if it was me. I don't think you can get better for less than a grand per sub (unless buying used).
 
On paper the Arendal Sub 2 looks good and the width fits in my space, but not many reviews out there. Just a little worried going from 2 lesser dual subs to one better single sub!
You only need to read through the owners thread on here to get a sense of what people think about them.
 
I have dual Arendal Sub 2's, also have a single BK XXLS400 in another room. The BK is excellent given its price point, but the Arendal's are in a different league (and so they should be given the price difference).

I'd be looking at dual Arendal Sub 1S or Sub 1's if it was me. I don't think you can get better for less than a grand per sub (unless buying used).
You only need to read through the owners thread on here to get a sense of what people think about them.
I did go throught the Arendal owners thread, I will admit I was skim reading as there are a lot of pages!

So Dual Sub1S or Sub 1 would usually be preferable to a single Sub2?
 
So some of the subs that will fit are:
PSA S1500
SVS SB2000/3000
Arendal Sub1, Sub1S and Sub2
XTZ12.17 Edge

I don't mind going used for the right pair.

Any others worth some more research? Max width will be 43cm at a push, depth and height not so much of an issue.
 
So some of the subs that will fit are:
PSA S1500
SVS SB2000/3000
Arendal Sub1, Sub1S and Sub2
XTZ12.17 Edge

I don't mind going used for the right pair.

Any others worth some more research? Max width will be 43cm at a push, depth and height not so much of an issue.

How exact is your 43 cm limit? A PSA S1500 is a few mm larger than that. Checking my S1510 you'd want a 43.5 cm gap to be sure it would fit OK.
 
How exact is your 43 cm limit? A PSA S1500 is a few mm larger than that. Checking my S1510 you'd want a 43.5 cm gap to be sure it would fit OK.
43.5mm would just about be ok if I shuffle the TV stand over a few mm, but that would be the max, cheers for the info
 
43.5mm would just about be ok if I shuffle the TV stand over a few mm, but that would be the max, cheers for the info
As that's sounding tight I'll try to measure more accurately for you tomorrow.
 
As that's sounding tight I'll try to measure more accurately for you tomorrow.
It would be ok, I'm just trying not to shuffle the stand too far to the right as there's a door there! 43.5mm would leave about 10mm breathing space
 
I'm starting to think of weird options now!
I keep looking at the Arendal Sub2 and PSA S1811 in the classifieds, any chance one or the other might integrate with one or two XXLS400's?? Completely different power capabilities, drivers etc so probably a no no 😅
Just sitting indoors twiddling my thumbs this evening, so sub upgraditis has set in again😆
 
Xxls400 to PSA s1811 is a hell of an upgrade!
 
I wouldn't have thought that the 400s would add much with an 1811 in the room. Maybe fill in a very specific dip if you have one. And much easier to hide.

More than the combined power of both subs driving a single driver and more than double the cone area. Probably wouldn't go that much deeper (comfortable down to about 15Hz), but it'd sound very different. The PSA 18s have a weight to them that not even the 15s have.

I believe 400s hold their resale value well though!
 

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