Plumbing help!

Discussion in 'General Chat' started by grantsteve, Aug 26, 2018.

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  1. grantsteve

    grantsteve
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    I found a leak in the garage this morning which is coming from a gate valve in a section of pipe taking water to the upstairs of the house. Its not gushing but is a steady drip which is now collecting in a bucket.

    I've tried a few local plumbers who advertise 24hr call out but they don't do Sundays apparently :facepalm:.

    I've been out and picked up a new gate valve and would be willing to give it a go myself but have no idea how to isolate the water to the pipe, or indeed to to fix the new valve in place in a copper pipe. Is it a matter of turning the water off at the stopcock and completely draining the system? Does the new valve need soldering in? I'm guessing its not just push fit.

    Pic below of the offending valve - the left of the two.

    IMG-0296.JPG

    Any advice gratefully received.

    I'm in Stourbridge in case anyone knows a local plumber who'll come out.

    Cheers
     
  2. the whistler

    the whistler
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    Have you tried tightening the nuts ? The one in line with the red control wheel is the usual culprit. Just get a spanner on it and turn it clockwise to tighten it. If the leak is coming from one of the pipe nuts try tightening these.
     
  3. John7

    John7
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    The gate valve has a compression fixing (olives and nuts).

    You may not have to remove it to effect a repair. They commonly leak from where the handle spindle enters the body. there is an adjustable gland at this point (circled in the photo) that you need to tighten a little to stop it leaking (if it's leaking from here). Just put a spanner on it and turn it a few degrees clockwise to nip up the gland and see if the leak stops

    The other valve also has a slight leak from here that I can see in the photo.

    I don't like gate valves as they readily seize up if you don't operate them regularly and frequently. Given the opportunity to replace them, I fit stainless steel lever ball valves, like these.....

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-lever-ball-valve-blue-15mm/9675v InkedIMG-0296_LI.jpg
     
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  4. grantsteve

    grantsteve
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    I've tried tightening the nuts behind the red wheel to no avail. The drips are forming around, and therefore I assume the leak is coming from, the next nut along - see below, except it's the valve on the left leaking.
    IMG-0296.JPG .



    Now that I know they are compression fix I'd have a crack at doing swapping them myself if I could work out how to isolate the water to those pipes. I've had a lot of new pipework fitted in the garage for a new boiler, hot water tank and new mains connection and this is part of the old pipework.
     
  5. zad

    zad
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    The only way to isolate that pipe is out side at your main feed in... unless you can get a freeze jacket and freeze the pipe before the valve..

    Call a plumber lol
     
  6. mikes48

    mikes48
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    I think you'll be struggling to change the gate valve because there doesn't seem to be any "slack" in the pipes on either side of it. Bear in mind that there's up to an inch of pipe going into each side of the valve, so even when you've fully loosened the nuts the valve will just turn on the pipes - unless say the upper pipe can be pushed up into the unseen void, or the lower pipe can be pulled down. Neither looks likely :(.

    So definitely worth trying to nip up both union nuts, and tightening the nut under the wheel.

    If that doesn't help I'd say it's a plumber - they're the pros :smashin:
     
  7. its_all_Greek

    its_all_Greek
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    Wow some deduction there, unusual for the main feed to the house to be just below the ceiling. ;)
     
  8. zad

    zad
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    And I see you offered some sort of advice as well, oh wait no you didn't.

    But re looking at the picture not on my phone this time, it isn't the main feed. And as for things being unusual well my main isolation is no where near where you would expect it to be :)
     
  9. its_all_Greek

    its_all_Greek
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    The advice i would have given was already given by John7 so there was no more to add.
     
  10. ChrisNic

    ChrisNic
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    You may have done this but rather than just tightening the compression fittings (nuts) loosen them off first and give them a wiggle. It doesn’t need to be much and there shouldn’t be lots of water flooding out but you might find that you get the fitting to sit on the olive better and a seal formed.

    Over tightening and crushing the olive can make things worse (I speak from experience) so don’t hang off it.
     
  11. DPinBucks

    DPinBucks
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    As the leak's coming from the valve gland and not the unions, you could try dismantling the tap in situ and replacing the washers. Alternatively, if the new valve you've bought is a straight swap, cannibalize it and put the new bits in the old body.
     
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  12. grantsteve

    grantsteve
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    Thanks all for the assistance.

    In the end I got a neighbour who is more useful than I am to help. It turns out that the pipes were feeding the rads upstairs so we partially drained the system, removed the offended valves and replaced with those lever valves John7 suggested. Bit fiddly because of how tight the pipes were together but much better now - yes I know the valves are in upside down but I couldn’t get them in the right way up because of the proximity to the ceiling.

    221D59B2-6797-4474-8A82-D63E6DAA1B25.jpeg
     

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