plastering speaker cables?

dts_boy

Well-known Member
anyone know how much a plasterer would charge once i have finished chasing my speaker cable into the walls? the total length is about 1.2m from ground level to where the speaker will be placed. also, is it worth running some kind of trunking in the wall so the cable can be removed at any stage or just plaster straight over cable? i'm no DIYer but have been told im good at destrcuction :eek:
any advice much appreciated!
 

Mark Ward

Active Member
is it worth running some kind of trunking in the wall so the cable can be removed at any stage or just plaster straight over cable?
YES! run trunking. I'm doing the same thing myself.

You may decide to bi-wire later or ugrade your cables. For my system I'm think I may run active speakers at a later date and want the possibilty to easily change from speaker cables to interconnects. I'm also running power points to each speaker position for the same reason.

Mark.
 

dts_boy

Well-known Member
fair ponit although as i am using m&k ss150 at the mo i can't see myself from changing very quickly just yet. before i upgrade again i sahll locate all my equipment into one half of my garage and put a door through to it....now where did i put my sledge hammer?!:eek:
 

derekrcross

Standard Member
why not try 20mm or 25mm conduit from floor level to speaker position this would make it easy to pull through later
 
L

Len

Guest
Why pay a plasterer to do it? It's easy enough to chase the cables yourself [if the walls are plaster] and then fill with Polyfilla or an equivalent. Then use a sander to give it a fine finish and paint over. I've done that in the past and if I've done it anyone can.
 

simon69

Active Member
Try using some conduit skirting, then if you upgrade there will be no mess. You can paint it as well so it will match your room decor.
 
R

rooo

Guest
If the channel in your wall is neat, the plastering it in is very easy.

Get a bag of one coat plaster from Wickes, mix it (takes ages!) and apply it using a plasterers trowel. It really is easy. The only difficult thing about plastering is when you don't have a guide to work with, but as you do, give DIY a go, and spend the £200 extra in your pocket on more media!

The worst that can hapen is you may need to fill in a couple of trowel marks with polyfilla, as I do!
 

dts_boy

Well-known Member
okay, i have been convinced, i will try and save some money! am gonna have a go this weekend so will let you all know how i get on and post a pic if i can borrow a camera (and if it goes to plan):blush:
 

boltoa

Active Member
I'm planning on trunking some cables into a plasterboarded wall for a new plasma - power cable, component cable, and speaker cable to centre speaker which I'll be putting on a shelf (possibly) just below it. It may be that I can just drop the wires through the gap between plasterboard and wall (it's a stud mount as far as I know), but whatever way I go, my question is this: what do you do at the points where the wires go into or come out of the wall? Do you put boxes in, or just some kind of grommet, or just poke them out the wall (power cable hole will need to be big enough for a kettle lead).

Also, I know the component cable is well shielded, but I'm worried I should put the power cable as far from the video and speaker cable as possible. Any opinions on this?

Thanks, Andrew

Wife's just called to say plasma just arrived (a day earlier than we'd booked the delivery, but hey, she was in, so I'm happy :D).
 
S

Sgt.Colon

Guest
A bit late I know and you have prob already started or finished. But on using cable trunking I would say yes. Sink it into your wall and then if you ever have a cable problem you will be able to easily remove the cable :)
 
P

paiger

Guest
Andrew, if your walls are dry lined then you should have a gap, as you say between the blocks and the plasterboad of an inch or two. This is ideal for running the cables through. If the hole the cables come out of is hidden, don't worry about it, just leave it as you punched it, plasterboard is not sharp and is reasonably strong. I would try to keep the cables apart. Maybe either side of a vertical stud? More work but probably worth it.

Steve
 

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