PlasmaDan's Security Shed Build

Discussion in 'Home Cinema Building DIY' started by Plasma Dan, Apr 2, 2016.

  1. Plasma Dan

    Plasma Dan
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    PlasmaDan's Security Shed Build

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    This was a side project to my DIY cinema build (here). Prior to starting my cinema build I had acquired a lot of tools & equipment, most of which was kept in the room while I was working on it. About half-way through the project I had to level the floor which meant clearing-out the whole room of everything, including my collection of tools. I don't have a secure garage or safe place to store my tools, and I certainly wouldn't keep them in a cheap wooden shed. So, I decided I was just going to have to build a secure shed myself. :rolleyes:

    I know I went WAY overboard on security for this project, so bear that in-mind. :laugh: I decided that any "security shed" really ought to be framed using steel not wood (for obvious reasons). It must be able to withstand attack from a would-be burglar, but not look like anything particularly special from the outside, so as to not draw attention. I thought for a long time about how a burglar might break into a shed, and how I could prevent it. :suicide:

    The Plan

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    I drew-up a 3D model of what I wanted to create while I was working on the cinema build. I only have a small back-yard, so I couldn't have anything too big. The dimensions I came-up with were based on the size of my 26" Stanley toolboxes, space for larger items such as my Makita mitre saw, and the width of the concrete platform where the old shed used to be.

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    I used the 3D model to create some 2D plans to be used for reference while working on the steel frame. :) The steel I chose was 25mm (1") square 2.5mm thick box-section. I sourced the steel from a local steel supplier. Based on the CAD drawing I worked-out I needed around 110 meters of steel, I managed to get 15x 7.5m lengths (112.5m) for £100 + VAT. Who knew steel was so cheap? :eek: My father is a mechanic, so I have access to a garage, welding equipment etc. :smashin:

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    The shed is designed to be flat-packed for easy transport, so each section needs to be bolted together from the inside of the shed. The first step was creating the outer frame and bolting it together...

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    Once the basic outline frame was done, I could start adding the bars. For this I needed lots of repeat cuts, so I clamped multiple lengths of steel together and cut them using my Makita DCS550; a metal cutting saw which cut through all this steel with very little effort. :smashin:

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    After a few days, I had a rather ominous looking, but very secure steel cage. :rolleyes:

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    I used some wide-throw stainless-steel hinges for the door. These must be wide-throw to allow the door to clear the plywood / cladding on the outside of the shed.

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    :offtopic: Could the moderators look into allowing more than 20 images per post? Maybe allow more for active members or something? :suicide: 20 just isn't enough for the DIY section. :(
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2018
  2. Plasma Dan

    Plasma Dan
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    I added security pins to the hinge side of the door, these are just bolts with the head cut off. The thread is left on to allow the pins to be adjusted easily.

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    Before adding the TGV cladding, I decided it would be best to panel the outside of the shed with exterior-grade ply. This would serve as somewhere to pin the cladding to, and also add an additional layer of protection from both burglars, and the weather. :smashin:

    This was quite an expensive thing to do, as the 18mm plywood ended-up totalling around 40% of the entire build cost. :censored:

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    The plywood is secured to the steel using Torx-Fast wood screws. Out of several screws I had, these were the only ones strong-enough to drive into the steel (obviously pre-drilled).

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    By this stage I'd already deviated from the plan quite a bit, and was pretty-much making things up as I went along. I added some 50x25mm rectangular steel to the lock side of the door / shed, to offer plenty strength to the bolts used for the various locks.

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    Another couple of days later I had the majority of the outside of the shed panelled with 18mm exterior ply. I used better quality ply for the front section as that is left slightly exposed due to the door.

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    It's difficult to tell from the pictures, but the plywood on both sides of the door is bevelled at 45 degrees. This is a trick to disguise the position of the steel behind the plywood. If somebody tries to force the door open with a lever / crowbar, they would only be able to lever the plywood, as the steel is off-set. This also helps divert any rain-water from getting inside the shed. :smashin:

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    At this stage, the entire shed was dismantled; ready to paint the steel.

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    The steel was first rigorously cleaned with paint thinner; to remove any oil, then coated with a thin layer of etch primer. The final colour is a standard automotive satin black finish, applied with aerosol cans.

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    Last edited: Mar 28, 2018
  3. Plasma Dan

    Plasma Dan
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    Before reassembling the shed, I decided to insulate between the steel bars to help prevent condensation build-up. I used 2 sheets of 25mm PIR insulation, and cut it into 100mm strips to fit between the bars.

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    I left holes to allow access to the various bolts. This is the base section being insulated.

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    I secured the insulation in-place using foil tape. :smashin:

    The plywood base of the shed was painted on both sides with bitumen paint, then attached to the steel base.

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    Lengths of 2x2 treated timber were attached to the underside of the base to act as the "feet" of the shed, with a bricklayers DPC in-between. This should prevent any water ingress from underneath the shed.

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    Reassembly wasn't without it's problems. As expected the paint was enough to make aligning the bolt-holes very difficult, but with some persuasion I did manage to get the thing back together. :smashin:

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    After the 18mm plywood was reattached to the outside, I panelled-out the inside with 9mm hardwood ply. This protects the insulation, and provides a place to attach brackets / shelves too; wherever needed.

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    I bought some chequer plate pattern rubber matting of eBay, and glued it to a sheet of 18mm ply for the inside base of the shed.

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    These pictures show the hinge security pins in closer detail. The pins are threaded, so if anyone tried to cut them they would just spin. The pins are also case-hardened. :smashin:

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    Last edited: Mar 28, 2018
  4. Plasma Dan

    Plasma Dan
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    Time to add the TGV panelling. I bought myself a new toy for the TGV panelling; a Bostitch brad-nailer. :)

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    I added treated batten to each corner of the shed first, this is to cover the edge of the plywood, but also allows the shed to be dismantled again.

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    In-order to ensure a clean line where the door is, I decided to panel over the door completely, and cut-out the door again afterwards. ;)

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    The door was cut-out again using my Festool track saw...

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    Now those huge wide-throw hinges don't look so huge. :rolleyes:

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    The main lock is an internal rim lock, this allows quick access to the shed if I need to be in & out all day. I also added a stainless-steel hasp for a large padlock, and 2 sliding bolt locks (although I kinda regret adding those, they look a bit cheap, but maybe that's a good thing? :suicide:).

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    Last edited: Mar 28, 2018
  5. Plasma Dan

    Plasma Dan
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    The roof was painted with bitumen paint, then covered with IKO roofing felt.

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    Some shelves were made-up to suit my various toolbox sizes.

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    Then the whole thing was dismantled and moved to its home in my back-yard. :)

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    Let me know what you think of this project. Feel free to point-out where the shed is vulnerable to determined would-be thieves. :censored:

    Dan.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2018
  6. Plasma Dan

    Plasma Dan
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  7. 1080 jawbreaker

    1080 jawbreaker
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    weakest link is those hinges, just need to tap the pins out
     
  8. Plasma Dan

    Plasma Dan
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    Plenty people said the same thing while I was building it. :rolleyes:
    Tapping-out the pins will do nothing. The security pins will hold the door in-place in that event. :smashin:

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    Dan.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2018
  9. 1080 jawbreaker

    1080 jawbreaker
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    I'll bring along a grinder :) and wait until you go to the shops/holiday.

    have you fastend it to the floor, I know a guy with a helicopter :)
     
  10. Plasma Dan

    Plasma Dan
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    I've thought about how best to break into the shed, a grinder at-least would be required. That's the whole point, breaking into it would draw attention and take time. :censored: I considered fastening it to the ground... but then I realised, if someone can lift the shed up, they can pull a couple of bolts out of the ground too. :laugh:

    Dan.
     
  11. ChuckMountain

    ChuckMountain
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    Looks good and compliments on the workmanship.

    Realistically its going to be hard (relatively) to break into for a shed so you would have to be determined to get it in !

    Having said that as you have gone for security from the onset and continuing a theoretical discussion, I think as others have said there a couple of areas. Easiest option if its not bolted down is to get a pair of sack wheels under it and away we go break in at your leisure. Obviously your back garden or wherever it is might preclude that.

    Additionally I think the hinge side should be beefed up further. The bolts you have put in place would be vulnerable to bolt cutters potentially so plate to weld over that area would improve that. Possibly different internal hinge would be better.
     
  12. Plasma Dan

    Plasma Dan
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    Thanks. :beer:

    Exactly. I know it's not impossible, but I feel much more comfortable leaving my tools in there than in my van. :censored:

    I have considered the prospect of some "Italian Job" enthusiast running off (or flying off) with my shed, but I don't keep gold bullion in there. :laugh:

    The back-yard is completely enclosed by brick walls, that's why I didn't bother bolting it down.

    Good thought, maybe on Mk. II :)

    Thing is even if someone was to remove the hinge pins (or cut the hinges off completely), then surpass the security pins (behind the TGV and plywood), the door will still not move due to the bevel on the plywood. By the time someone defeats the plywood panelling, they might-aswell just unbolt the side of the shed. :laugh:

    All this being said I still watch the thing like a hawk on CCTV. :laugh:

    Dan.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2018
  13. drummerjohn

    drummerjohn
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    Amazing job!!
     
  14. inzaman

    inzaman
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    That's a great job, and a gap in the market for something like that. I think you'll also be safe in the event of a nuclear attack :D:D
     
  15. ChuckMountain

    ChuckMountain
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    You need to wire it into the Wallace and Gromit burglar system that should see you good :clap:

    Actually scratch that given you have a metal cage you could just wire up to a nice electricity supply, that will stop people with power tools :devil:
     
  16. nowhereboy

    nowhereboy
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    Amazing work as always Dan did you draw up those plans yourself? I really could do with help from yourself to draw up plans for the guys building my bookcase built ins to follow.

    Do you offer such a service? :)
     
  17. pilon

    pilon
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    That is one amazing shed, I'd love one of those to keep my stuff in.
    The one thing that I can see as the weak area would be the locks, a good go with a hair grip and a screwdriver (too much fallout 4 lock picking), and you'd be in l guess.
     
  18. jerryq7777

    jerryq7777
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    Quality work mate puts my plastic shed to shame :laugh:
     
  19. peter-d-w

    peter-d-w
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    Incredible! Great for peace of mind!
     
  20. nowhereboy

    nowhereboy
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    If they were tumbler locks maybe but high tensile coated steel won't budge with any cutters. A flame cutter is needed the usual scum smackheads and low lives tend not to carry them as they can't afford it nor fit into their trackies.

    Looks like my shed in actual fact but one good wind and mine is in pieces :)

    I'd just throw anyone I caught attempting to steal anything in there then just blitz it with spray foam so they couldn't be heard nor be able to breathe for that matter.
     
  21. Plasma Dan

    Plasma Dan
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    Yep. Just a basic AutoCAD drawing. :)

    I could do. I'd need all the measurements and your ideas of what you want etc. :)

    Thought of that. ;) I did extensive research on locks, lock-picking etc. :rolleyes: I'm using ABUS Diskus padlocks; quite expensive but I think worth it. They're meant to be extremely difficult to pick open thanks to the anti-pick mushroom pins, and anti-drill also thanks to the the spinning plate over the keyhole. :smashin:

    The rim lock I'm using is the key the the whole shebang really. I'm using an ABUS Pfaffenhain rim lock; these are available with one-of-a-kind key bidding. The key bidding really is odd, just the ticket to deter would-be thieves. :smashin: They're not too expensive for what they are, I've been considering replacing all of my uPVC door cylinders with ABUS Pfaffenhain type. They're also available keyed-alike; useful for front & back doors. :smashin:

    ABUS Pfaffenhain UK Style Rim Cylinder

    Dan.
     
  22. nowhereboy

    nowhereboy
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  23. oliver0331

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    Awesome work dan, where did you get the TGV from? Looking to add an extension to my current shed, couldnt swing a mouse in it let a bl***dy cat!
     
  24. Plasma Dan

    Plasma Dan
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    North West Timber Treatments. However they only deliver around my area. :censored:

    Dan.
     
  25. scatterbug

    scatterbug
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    As with all your work, that is the absolute dogs!
     
  26. JWalker1

    JWalker1
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    Amazing. When I saw the insulation, I first thought where is this going. Will he plumb it and add electrics?! Where does it stop????
     
  27. Plasma Dan

    Plasma Dan
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    *meanwhile, planning how best to run conduit to install electrics* :D

    Dan.
     
  28. JWalker1

    JWalker1
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    You need a light in there for evening access, plus a few sockets to charge your tools without them getting in the way in the house :)
     
  29. Plasma Dan

    Plasma Dan
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    Exactly. :smashin: I plan to get one of those new dual battery chargers and mount it onto the back of the door. :cool:

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    Dan.
     
  30. m000

    m000
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    wowsers!

    Can I ask if the shed is more expensive than the contents inside ?
     

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