Planar 3 to Planar 6 - worthwhile upgrade or not?

ben38

Active Member
I have the urge to buy myself a hi-fi treat and I’ve got my eye on a second hand Planar 6; however, i've done plenty of research but I'm still unsure whether it would provide a significant upgrade on my Planar 3 which has an aluminium sub platter and low-slung counterweight fitted.

My set up sounds great (Brio amp, Aria PS and Tannoy XtF6 speakers) but the upgrade bug is getting the better of me during these dark days; however, I’m not sure what I’d be expecting in terms of an improvement by adding a better TT.

Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks
 

BT Bob

Distinguished Member
The big changes between the P3 & P6 are the subplatter and Neo PSU.

If you have a better subplatter anyway, you could swap them over and see if your old one sounds any different to the stock one.

The arms are probably the same on the 2 tables, so you could also move your counterweight over as well.

Other than that, I think the main differences are the plinth (P6 lighter/stiffer) and feet (better suited to the lighter plinth), and the Neo, of course. This is supposed to add better speed accuracy and stability (hence sound improvement) and the obvious option of easier speed-change.

You could, of course, add the Neo to the P3, but it's not cheap to buy so, depending on the price of the P6, it might actually be cheaper - especially as you could then sell your P3 to fund the change.
 

ben38

Active Member
Thanks for the feedback. The arm is the same on the P3 and P6 but i think the counterweight on the P6 is already improved so i'd probably keep it pretty much standard. I think you're right about the Neo, it's just shy of £250 so the expenditure would be very similar to buying a second hand P6 once the sale of my P3 is taken into account.

Decisions, decisions....
 

oscroft

Member
In case it's any help, I got a Neo PS for my Planar 3 and it made a noticeable improvement to the sound. That was after switching to an aluminium sub-platter and an acrylic platter - I think the plastic sub-platter on the P3 is probably its weakest point.

If you can effectively upgrade to a P6 with a Neo included for around the same price difference as buying a new Neo, that would seem like a sensible decision to me.
 

BT Bob

Distinguished Member
I think the plastic sub-platter on the P3 is probably its weakest point.
Intersting comment. I had the RP1 before getting my P6, and that had the same plastic sub-platter. I bought a set of damping wedges from SRM/Tech and they made a real difference. If you hold the sub-platter by the spindle and tap it you can hear a slight "ring", whereas with the "wedges" fitted, it sounds completely dead - as well as weighing a bit more - so I figured better inertia and less resonance.

 

oscroft

Member
I bought a set of damping wedges from SRM/Tech and they made a real difference.
I've heard other people say the same thing, and I almost did the same before I went for the aluminium sub-platter instead. It does suggest that those little triangular resonating chambers are perhaps not such a good idea!
 

Luceo non uro

Standard Member
When i was buying my turntable I demoed the P3 and P6 and didn't think there was a massive difference. I put the subtle difference down to the carts (Elys vs Exact), so I went for the P3.

Since then I've more than spent the difference between the two TTs on upgrades, so in hindsight I should probably have bought the P6 - but this way was more fun and a lower initial outlay, with upgrades being done over three years (Neo/Exact).

For those who have done the subplatter upgrade on the 2016 P3, how do you remove the stock subplatter? I feel foolish for not being able to figure it out, but it won't budge and I'm afraid that i'll damage the TT if I force it. I bought the Tangospinner subplatter, but not been able to fit it yet!
 

Luceo non uro

Standard Member
I think my next upgrade will be to the P8/Apheta, but I've put that off now as I need to put some money away (sob).
 

Luceo non uro

Standard Member
Just pull it out. It will feel sucked down due to the close seal, but it should come free by gently working it out.
Ah, thanks - I've got my terminology wrong though! The tangospinner came with it's own bearing sleeve and bearing; that's the bit I can't remove from the plinth. Tried unscrewing - won't budge. I asked Gus at Tangospinner and I think he suggested a rubber mallet - no way!
 

oscroft

Member
Ah, thanks - I've got my terminology wrong though! The tangospinner came with it's own bearing sleeve and bearing; that's the bit I can't remove from the plinth. Tried unscrewing - won't budge. I asked Gus at Tangospinner and I think he suggested a rubber mallet - no way!
Ah yes, unscrew the nut holding it in beneath the plinth, and then a bit of force is needed - there's no other way really. It might only need a gentle tap or two to loosen it a bit.
 

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