pioneer pdp lx5090 red tint to blacks

[stucarblne]

Nice work sounds like yours is almost sorted, if only you could stop messing around with it lol.

Not sure you did asked me about that voltage Q. But from reading other people's posts it seems resets suffer from sparkles, non resets suffer from misfires.

I could be giving myself more work no doubt... But this is for my peace of mind and something i enjoy immensely.

I am going for the complete reset (zeroing) all the necessary logs according to the service manual to start again from the beginning properly. As i feel it's the correct way now after all the voltage practice i have had. And won't be going in (so) blindly this time

I expect all the voltage adjustments/settings, to completely different - especially for the red sparkle trails.

Determined to get this spot on for in time for buying a Lumagen.

And unlike when i only reset the hour and pulse the first time when i was unable to adjust whenever i needed or wanted because i didn't have the necessary equipment (or service manual). Well no similar issues this time around and i will be keeping a written note of each and every adjustment no matter how small or seemingly insignificant.

 

[all clear]

If it was only as simple as all that... It's components inside the panel running off spec therefore needs adjusting.

That's not to say that some equipment cant be doing some things to affect voltage ina negative way.

If you are prone to the tint, bring up PC mode and that will display it no questions asked.

what causes this problem ???

 

[aandpwoodley]

I could be giving myself more work no doubt... But this is for my peace of mind and something i enjoy immensely.

I am going for the complete reset (zeroing) all the necessary logs according to the service manual to start again from the beginning properly. As i feel it's the correct way now after all the voltage practice i have had. And won't be going in (so) blindly this time

I expect all the voltage adjustments/settings, to completely different - especially for the red sparkle trails.

Determined to get this spot on for in time for buying a Lumagen.

And unlike when i only reset the hour and pulse the first time when i was unable to adjust whenever i needed or wanted because i didn't have the necessary equipment (or service manual). Well no similar issues this time around and i will be keeping a written note of each and every adjustment no matter how small or seemingly insignificant.

Good luck, are you still having problems with the red tint or is it curiosity to see if you can get it perfect.

 

[stucarblne]

Good luck, are you still having problems with the red tint or is it curiosity to see if you can get it perfect.

Thanks,

No red tint but your right as it's more of a curiosity thing as when i first reset i had a few hundred hours on it from the pulse and hour reset and was unable to adjust in-between as i never had the correct gear. But it should be a lot quicker this time around to fix the mal-discharge stuff. Been playing on my mind ever since i downloaded the manual that it wasn't a proper reset as such, that and the fact that specific voltages must be adjusted from the start which i didn't do. That and experimenting to see what voltage does the most good or harm. But this time around i will only need to adjust a few voltages and then leave for a good few hundred hours and then bring them back into sync

 

[stucarblne]

what causes this problem ???

Hard to say exactly, three things possibly, incorrectly set up at the factory/voltage/algorithms. Certain faulty boards perhaps.

I think the ysus must be in sync with the xsus and vice versa. These two boards must be adjusted exactly the same amount (if they need adjustments) or one will cook the other. The y sus board feeds the x sus board

 

[stucarblne]

Ok.

So did the "zeroing" reset late last night and everything going well so far, i put all the voltage back to factory default before resetting though. I had 10729 hours on the panel before this final reset.

After letting her run in for about an hour first i made a few adjustments.

I took VOL SUS to 90 first of all. That might sound low and brings in more pink noise on still light colored images.

But taking it as low as that helps combat the white sparkles on black after reset, and taking FS1D down 10 clicks all but eliminates it... And adjusting the Y&X board voltage down to 121 each - that eliminates the pink noise on still screen after lowering the SUS. This will completely clear (white&pink) after so many hours and a few adjustments like i had cleared it before after the first reset eventually. At least i know how to clear the white misfire this time from the start which helps.


I read that lowering VOL SUS quite low makes the image more noisy/dithering. I can't see it on the KRP and i checked numerous times, especially with white and it's fine.

The only other one i changed was OFSA D, i raised that to 158 and that helped greatly and basically removed the pink misfire on moving/changing images. There is no red tint on black raising that high after the initial zeroing reset, i will take that back down again in small increments every few hundred hours or so as the panel re-adjusts/settles down. I didn't need to touch RST P and that was left at factory default of 018.

I left the ABL at the factory defaults through the different drive modes as lowering SUS like i have hasn't lowered contrast enough to worry about in blackout or darkish viewing environment. And saw no point in raising ABL or even the normal contrast control to compensate tbh.

So all that's left are a few small adjustments here and there as the hours go by. Much better this time around from my first pulse and hour reset and very happy and relaxed about it all this time around.

 

[aandpwoodley]

Ok.

So did the "zeroing" reset late last night and everything going well so far, i put all the voltage back to factory default before resetting though. I had 10729 hours on the panel before this final reset.

After letting her run in for about an hour first i made a few adjustments.

I took VOL SUS to 90 first of all. That might sound low and brings in more pink noise on still light colored images.

But taking it as low as that helps combat the white sparkles on black after reset, and taking FS1D down 10 clicks all but eliminates it... And adjusting the Y&X board voltage down to 121 each - that eliminates the pink noise on still screen after lowering the SUS. This will completely clear (white&pink) after so many hours and a few adjustments like i had cleared it before after the first reset eventually. At least i know how to clear the white misfire this time from the start which helps.


I read that lowering VOL SUS quite low makes the image more noisy/dithering. I can't see it on the KRP and i checked numerous times, especially with white and it's fine.

The only other one i changed was OFSA D, i raised that to 158 and that helped greatly and basically removed the pink misfire on moving/changing images. There is no red tint on black raising that high after the initial zeroing reset, i will take that back down again in small increments every few hundred hours or so as the panel re-adjusts/settles down. I didn't need to touch RST P and that was left at factory default of 018.

I left the ABL at the factory defaults through the different drive modes as lowering SUS like i have hasn't lowered contrast enough to worry about in blackout or darkish viewing environment. And saw no point in raising ABL or even the normal contrast control to compensate tbh.

So all that's left are a few small adjustments here and there as the hours go by. Much better this time around from my first pulse and hour reset and very happy and relaxed about it all this time around.

Good news fella, how are the blacks now, still good with no tint present

 

[middleweight]

Good news fella, how are the blacks now, still good with no tint present

black

 

[roli1245]

My KRP 500a has lost some of its black level performance since i got it 2 years ago, will doing a reset put the blacl level up again ?

 

[aandpwoodley]

My KRP 500a has lost some of its black level performance since i got it 2 years ago, will doing a reset put the blacl level up again ?

No, don't do it, are you sure you've not just got used to its performance

 

[stucarblne]

My KRP 500a has lost some of its black level performance since i got it 2 years ago, will doing a reset put the blacl level up again ?

It's not really advisable. The only reason i did it was because of the red tint on my KRP because Pioneer wouldn't help. If you wanted to tweak black level you could probaly lower RST P (very carefully) until you find a happy medium. But wouldn't touch anything else to be honest as you dont have tinted black

 

[roli1245]

when viewing in a dark room i remember the black bars on a blu ray were as black as the bezel but now look slightly grey. maybe it is me having got used to its performance. Im still blown away with its picture Im not intrested in 3D at the moment so dont see any good reason to get one of the new Panasonic plasmas, still its always in the back of my mind if there is anything else out there thats better.

 

[stucarblne]

when viewing in a dark room i remember the black bars on a blu ray were as black as the bezel but now look slightly grey. maybe it is me having got used to its performance. Im still blown away with its picture Im not intrested in 3D at the moment so dont see any good reason to get one of the new Panasonic plasmas, still its always in the back of my mind if there is anything else out there thats better.

Apart from 3D. There isn't anything better (or) blacker than your KRP, there are some great pro monitors, but like anything there are pros and cons, same with our Kuros. If i didn't have this KRP, soon to be upgraded further with a Lumagen and a Darbee Dablet - i would have a VX monitor for sure. If you feel your black level isn't what it was, or you have got used to it - you could lower your reset pulse (RST P) slightly. What is your default number for your RST P ?

 

[Kila Skila]

It's not really advisable. The only reason i did it was because of the red tint on my KRP because Pioneer wouldn't help. If you wanted to tweak black level you could probaly lower RST P (very carefully) until you find a happy medium. But wouldn't touch anything else to be honest as you dont have tinted black

As stu said if you haven't got a lovely red tint or other issues I'd stay well clear of a reset, plus you can pretty much wave goodbye to the rest of your warranty! But again that's entirely your call. If you wanted to lower the black level, drop rst-p down a little and fsa-d these seem to be the main voltages that pretty much have a instant effect on the mil level and don't require resetting your panel. But again what's the point! Just enjoy your tv fella, oled out soon

 

[middleweight]

Apart from 3D. There isn't anything better (or) blacker than your KRP, there are some great pro monitors, but like anything there are pros and cons, same with our Kuros. If i didn't have this KRP, soon to be upgraded further with a Lumagen and a Darbee Dablet - i would have a VX monitor for sure. If you feel your black level isn't what it was, or you have got used to it - you could lower your reset pulse (RST P) slightly. What is your default number for your RST P ?

don't go down that road

 

[stucarblne]

don't go down that road

Just means if i didn't buy a 9G when i did and i wanted to buy a new screen today. Well in my opinion my (only) option would be a VX (imo)

And lowering reset pulse (RST P) is the only real safe option to lowering your 0mll without resetting the panel, and if done very carefully (shouldn't) bring in any unwanted mal-discharge (sparkles)

 

[Bumtious]

Just means if i didn't buy a 9G when i did and i wanted to buy a new screen today. Well in my opinion my (only) option would be a VX (imo)

And lowering reset pulse (RST P) is the only real safe option to lowering your 0mll without resetting the panel, and if done very carefully (shouldn't) bring in any unwanted mal-discharge (sparkles)

You would not be happy with black levels on a VX.

 

[middleweight]

i just find it strange when people say, there blacks, have got worse,if the panel is set up properly, calibrated, they should improve, i no mine did, or looked better to me anyway,

 

[stucarblne]

Yes it sounds like his set might have drifted a bit, voltage or calibration its impossible to know - as the Kuro was meant to remain steady black level wise. But if his RST P is very low number wise to begin with, like in the low single digits. Then lowering it further is probaly not an option.

I read that the VX300 was meant to be quite similar to the LX black level ?

 

[Bumtious]

Yes it sounds like his set might have drifted a bit, voltage or calibration its impossible to know - as the Kuro was meant to remain steady black level wise. But if his RST P is very low number wise to begin with, like in the low single digits. Then lowering it further is probaly not an option.

I read that the VX300 was meant to be quite similar to the LX black level ?

You read it!!!

Not as black as last years VT30, if I was spending that money, it would have to be at least the same as a KRP. Well maybe the VX500 will be as Black as a VT 50 which does black well

 

[antoni]

u scare him

xD

 

[stucarblne]

You read it!!!

Not as black as last years VT30, if I was spending that money, it would have to be at least the same as a KRP. Well maybe the VX500 will be as Black as a VT 50 which does black well

Yes it does.

I wonder why the monitor black levels are a year behind the consumer panels. When paying an absolute premium i would find that massively unfair if i was buying one now. I mean i understand the panel is basically the same but it's electronics are superior. I know there is more to an image than black alone - of course it's the most important thing as it's the base for colour etc. But you would think that the mega expensive accurate monitor should have the deepest black - it's only right : (

So if the monitors are released every two years or so and the VT50 is Panasonics darkest yet... ******** will there ever be a 0mll monitor in 3 or 4 years if the current trend continues ?.

Or am i dreaming ?

 

[aandpwoodley]

Yes it does.

I wonder why the monitor black levels are a year behind the consumer panels. When paying an absolute premium i would find that massively unfair if i was buying one now. I mean i understand the panel is basically the same but it's electronics are superior. I know there is more to an image than black alone - of course it's the most important thing as it's the base for colour etc. But you would think that the mega expensive accurate monitor should have the deepest black - it's only right : (

So if the monitors are released every two years or so and the VT50 is Panasonics darkest yet... ******** will there ever be a 0mll monitor in 3 or 4 years if the current trend continues ?.

Or am i dreaming ?

I agree with you, the price of the pro panels to me does not reflect the performance you get

 

[Bumtious]

Stu. You ate doing far to much reading

The reality of many things discussed here are very different.

Make no mistake, black levels are about the most important for a decent image.

The pro panels are always behind.

The VX is overpriced considering the black levels The BX I'd more realistic and the performance is similar.

Again make no mistake. The VT's performance is astonishing for the price, I would not have entertained it if it wasn't.

I've had every Generation Pio since the 4th with the exception of the 5. Every panny I tried went back within days simply because of colour accuracy or lack of.

This year with the VT50, finally we have a set that has blacks, stability and colour accuracy.

The VX HAS to have a Lumagen to do proper colour management. Another £1800.

As stated IMHO a VT provides a decent alternative to a 9 gen Pio. It is a different image and there are pros and cons.

It was still a no brainer last year with the 30's. They were poor, not this year.

I think 0ml plasma will not happen. The VT50 will do me until Oled settles.

Oled still has issues, not with lifespan. 30000 hours is plenty. My heavily used KRP had 8700 at 3.5 years. Call it 10000 at 4 years. 20000 at 8. 30000 at 12 years. No way will someone keep a set that long.

What they need to deal with viewing angles and RETENTION issues.

Too many people reading and not seeing for themselves.

 

[stucarblne]

OLED viewing angles - omg seriously ?.

Will that be something the companies with the tech will be able to remedy easily enough in the first few generations ?

Because in other words it will be like a hugely over priced and hyped local dimmimg LED.