Pioneer Kuro to QLED

Discussion in 'Plasma TVs Forum' started by LMDavies, Aug 2, 2019.

  1. LMDavies

    LMDavies
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    I have a 10 year old KRP-500M and I just got hold of a 2018 Samsung Q9FN to try out.

    I mostly watch Sky News, RT News, BBC, YouTube, Netflix and HBO from my Apple TV and a PS4.

    I loved the fact that Samsung had slimmer bezels, no heat or noise, ARC, HDR, 4K, nice Tizan OS etc etc but I found it awful for the content that I view.

    Yes, its looks fantastic watching 4K HDR demos and gaming blows away my Kuro but I just did not like the picture and viewing angles for Apple TV content or the native YouTube, Netflix etc apps.

    Also the local dimming screwed with the subtitles (bright then dim).

    I only spent a day with it and admittedly I just stuck it on Movie mode but it made me appreciate how much I love my 10 year old Kuro for its natural looking picture and great contrast.

    I was looking at the LG C8 OLED but as I watch alot of news channels I heard that they are not as forgiving with burn-in as the last gen Plasmas.

    I have decided to keep my Kuro until it dies. Its done 20,000 hours and I have tweaked the voltages and it looks fantastic.

    Anyone else almost made the jump but decided against it?
     
  2. geese

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    I for one would not swap a QLED for a 50inch KRP.....and you have even tweaked yours so it should blow the QLED out of the Water. Good choice in the end imo. A properly tweaked KRP will kill it when it comes to contrast, micro contrast, dynamic range and real world content MLL, motion resolution etc. Keep the 500M.
     
  3. GMAN40

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    Hi LMDavies,
    I won’t be upgrading or downgrading to OLED or QLED anytime soon.
    My 500/600M have been tweeted to remove the reddish tint and still blow the current crop of tv out of the water in my opinion. Glad to read your keeping your 500M until it dies, 20k in viewing hours in not even run in yet. Come back when your have 40k and we’ll talk.
    Let’s not forget Pioneers KRP’s were 5 years ahead of every other manufacturer in 2009, that’s why 10 years on people are still comparing them to todays latest tech.
    Thx
    GMAN40
     
  4. geese

    geese
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    Yeah I agree, they were way ahead of time, even today many hold the KRP's as reference especially when tweaked to get those last bit of MLL and contrast. Brutal brutal contrast on a tweaked KRP.
     
  5. buzz_lightclick

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    And 500Ms have the fabled 10th Gen tech, going blacker than the other KRPs.
     
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  6. KuroMike

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    Did anybody ever find out what the American calibrated D-Nice used to do in his calibrations? I remember reading that he could get insane results without a voltage tweaking - near true blacks.

    Any ideas?
     
  7. middleweight

    middleweight
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    he was voltage tweaking
     
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  8. geese

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    Thats exactly what it was, he said it was some software made by Pio etc but it was voltage tweaking all along.
     
  9. geese

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    All KRP's are the same, the 50inch versions. They all go deeper than 5090/5020 etc. I still havent seen a KRP that doesnt go deeper MLL with higher contrast than their siblings.
     
  10. buzz_lightclick

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    The Ms are different to the As.
    No media box, just a monitor.
    Yes I agree they both go deeper than the 5090.
    But the M and the A are not the same.
     
  11. middleweight

    middleweight
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    we know that, but the claim the m goes blacker is old tosh, ive seen both measured side by side no difference
     
  12. geese

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    One may have a media box and more inputs than the other, but what they have inside is the same. Same drivers, same pdp modules etc. The 50inch models of KRP has the same MLL and all that. Have you had yours tweaked? It will look like an M but on juice.
     
  13. buzz_lightclick

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    I have lowered the RSTP on my 600M but that’s it.

    Well I’m no expert but I will say that there’s a number of people over on AVS who will disagree with you.
     
  14. strangequark

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    I sold my LX5090 for a KRP500M and regretted it. It had heavily crushed blacks after a reset (same as Eddie's KRP500M over on AVSForums). I ended up going back to the LX5090.

    The LX5090 has green sparkles near black after a reset, but they clear up nicely after a couple of hundred hours - not completely, but I hardly ever notice them from a normal viewing distance. I'd take an LX5090 with green sparkles over a KRP500M with heavily crushed blacks.

    Interestingly, Button said his KRP500A didn't have crushed blacks or sparkles near black after a reset, so for resets the KRP500A might be the better Kuro all things considered.
     
  15. geese

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    Did you tweak it before doing a reset? I for one wouldnt dare reset even though the 50inch 9G's handle it better than their 60 siblings......did you notice PQ differences between the 2 models?
     
  16. button_sw

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    I think they all behave differently but I've had two 500A's and reset both of them and neither had crushed blacks post reset. Brightness +1 and bar 17 just visible on a black clipping test pattern pre and post reset.

    I would always tweak before a reset but I would not hesitate performing a reset if I obtained another KRP. Once you know what voltages to adjust it all makes sense. I also calibrate the White Balance through the service menu as it has finer adjustments.

    My current 500A will be staying in the spare living room until it dies, still produces a fabulous picture and is on par with my Panny OLED for 1080p content (Blu-Rays)
     
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  17. strangequark

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    Ah, I forgot about the WB. A reset will throw off the WB, and Eddie has a program for Kuros that haven't been reset, but I would be more hesitant to reset without a colourimeter.

    When the sparkles are completely gone on the LX5090, it's almost back at square one with red tint haha, so I use bias lighting (10% nit surround). Movies and shows are graded with it anyway, and it makes a world of difference to the red tint - I can't see any with RSTP as high as 118, and RSTP clears the sparkles near black on LX5090s.

    Agreed, I would tweak first and only reset if necessary, but resets are inevitable, so it doesn't hurt to have a Kuro like the KRP500A (assuming they all behave like your two KRP500As) :)

    How bad is colour tinting on your EZ952? I've seen some horrific examples on here.

    No, I didn't tweak first. I didn't see the harm in resetting my KRP500M with all the hype it gets as the perfect reset Kuro. You live and learn :(

    It's hard for me to compare the PQ as my KRP500M was reset, and the KRP500M has a lower stock black level. But if they're tweaked to the same black level, there's not much between them IMO. The LX5090 has more dithering noise, so the KRP500M looks cleaner, but the difference is not night and day.

    I'm not sure if this is down to unit variation, but phosphor trails were quite bad on my KRP500M, whereas my first and second LX5090 were almost free of them.
     
  18. geese

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    I dont recall ever seeing phosphor trails on a KRP, but as you said unit to unit varies here and there or how prone we are spotting them. I hope I dont have to reset mine thats for sure.
     
  19. button_sw

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    My EZ952 hardly has any tint, or none that I have noticed. It has been professionally calibrated though so that probably helps.

    Julian (@Canary_Jules) didn't mention any tints when he was calibrating it. I am on my 2nd panel though as I had the rectangle of doom on my first one so these oleds are not built anywhere near as well as my Kuro, which is a tank in comparison
     
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  20. eastsoutheast

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    Could someone advise how i can either tweak to remove red tint or re-set my set. KRP600A
    Owned from new and was one of the last available.

    Many Thanks
    Brian
     
  21. strangequark

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    Hi Brian,

    You'll open a can of worms if you reset your KRP600A. It's a last resort on the 60" sets.

    Can you access the service menu?

    Lower RSTP to 001 and lower YNOFS1D by about 20 ticks. YNOFS1D will crush blacks if set too low (use the AVSHD709 black clipping pattern as a reference), but it's a compromise some people are willing to make.

    Do you see red tint with some ambient lighting? I don't see any red tint on my LX5090 with a bias light: MediaLight UK - The Most Accurate Bias Light is now in the UK
     
  22. geese

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    Yes do not reset a 60 kuro, you will regret it on the spot, they have very little wiggle room regarding tweaking but it will look better tweaked compared to what you see atm.
     
  23. generalgizmo

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    Need a logitech or cables and a laptop.. logitech needs programming but depending on where you live I could lend you mine..?? Had a krp500 and 600 and the TV needs to have done over 10,000hrs to see any improvements with voltage tweaks..
    Mentioned before had a 5090 to tie me over inbetween my OLED and the blacks on that were deeper than my front room 5090 or previous krp500 probably because it had done so many hrs.. but, horrible image retention so had to raise the volts up..
    To the OP.. I would keep my krp over anything new for what you use it for.. if the Panasonic oleds weren't about I would have kept my krp.. the pannies seemed to have implemented the plasma look to the oleds.. but cleaner blacks, brighter and more detailed cos 4khdr but agree with button_sw on 1080p not much difference.. grainier blurays look better(more forgiving) on the kuro but think have got my oled to match it on settings good blurays debatable poss the Panasonic.. but then 4khdr is awesome on it..in a different league.. so it serves its purpose in its strongest area as films is all mine is used for as a monitor... movie machine.. all rounder though TV, sports, films and build quality nod goes to the kuro...
     
  24. fathergll

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    Did you actually purchase one or just tried one out?
     
  25. LMDavies

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    I purchased it to compare then returned it the following day.
     
  26. eastsoutheast

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    My KRP600A has likely done 12 to 14k hours and does display the red tint albeit only noticeable on a blank screen or the bars if i am watching anything letterbox.

    The picture is still fantastic which is the main reason i have not gone down the OLED route.

    I don't have a Logitech but would get one if it really benefits my picture.

    Would a calibration be better and also remove the red tint?
     
  27. generalgizmo

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    Calibration wont get rid of it unless the said person whilst in the menus goes into the volts..
    It was in the letterbox bars I 1st noticed it and watching in the dark and mainly horror it showed up massively and the volt change sorted it out like a new TV..
    On a side note if you are more than happy with the kuro stay away from getting a demo of the panny OLED.. as that's what did it for me..1st TV that made me interested as still so much a plasma picture.. but that led me down the path of using the demo room at Richersounds..with my blurays particularly the opening credits of Halloween ...them blacks...!!! after that was the 1st time I found fault with my kuro.. but as mentioned films only sports etc the kuro is hard to beat.. although the new gz2000 I saw today looked amazing.. out of my budget though..
    But if you want the remote PM me and I'll post it to you and how to lower the said voltage as wont need it for a while as front room kuro is doing just fine..:cool:
     
  28. eastsoutheast

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    Thanks for the remote offer, i may take you up on it if i can find either someone who can assist (via phone or in person) or really clear instructions so i don't break it.
     
  29. generalgizmo

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    Hi
    Sorry for late reply I'll tell you how to do it over phone if want easy as the remote is programmed so point at TV red/orange service light comes on screen comes up with grids and use the pioneer remote from there..
    Just PM me your address and I'll send in a padded envelope.. will try again on my kuro as not done it in a while since bought the OLED..
    Thanks
    Chris
     
  30. eastsoutheast

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    Thanks Chris, a really kind offer and very much appreciated.
     

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