Pioneer KURO 9G Owners Thread part 14

I had magenta sparklies in the top right corner on my 500a, I found changing ysusb to 118 cured the problem.
All my other settings are standard apart from rstp which I set at 1 last week.
I tried all other recommendations from various sources on the web but this was the only answer for me.
Don't know if this will help on a 6090?
 
Need help. My 6020 is talking to me. Don't know why. It speaks in this monotonic computer voice and I want it to stop. Every time I do anything, it tells me what I'm doing. Must have inadvertently pressed a button on the remote but I've no idea what it was or how to fix it. If someone can assist, I'd be so grateful.
 
Think said about 6O+ thousand hrs..
We've had the kuro in the front family room from new and it'll be 11yrs old this September and has done over 25 thousand hrs... it's the best outlay I've ever spent on.. doubt my Panasonic oled would last half that.. I hope it doesn't but if it gave up I would have no complaints as it's served us well..
I bought my LX5090 Aug 2008. Cost me £2,500 and was worth every penny. Never had one moment of buyers remorse. Wasn’t until OLED that I even considered replacing it. Still use it in the lounge.
 
Hi,
I can see this question has been asked before but it went unanswered.
Can you use the KRP-S01 speakers on an LX-6090? Do the mounting brackets/holes match up?
I’ve seen you can use the KRP-S02 speakers with the LX-6090 but there is a fraction of hight and width difference. (which isn’t an issue)
Many thanks
 
Hi,
I can see this question has been asked before but it went unanswered.
Can you use the KRP-S01 speakers on an LX-6090? Do the mounting brackets/holes match up?
I’ve seen you can use the KRP-S02 speakers with the LX-6090 but there is a fraction of hight and width difference. (which isn’t an issue)
Many thanks
You may want to contact 'The Pioneer Man' (ebay seller) for advice. I bought a pair of KRP-600a speaker from him before, he is very knowledgeable.

 
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Hi everyone,

My LX-5090 is still going strong. So much so, that I don't really feel the need to upgrade - 10 years later it's still our main screen and we continue to thoroughly enjoy the picture.

This last week I've added an Xbox Series S to our setup. Seems the perfect addition as a 1080p games console, but there are multiple settings on the console that I'm not too sure what to do with.

The Xbox correctly identifies that my Kuro doesn't do 4K, HDR or any of those other newfound shenanigans, but the settings that are available aren't entirely clear. For example:

Video Modes
Allow 50Hz - ticked or unticked?
Allow 24Hz - ticked or unticked?
Allow YCC 4:2:2 - ticked or unticked?

Video Fidelity & Overscan
Colour depth - 8-bit, 10-bit or 12-bit?
Colour space - standard or PC-RGB?

Audio Output
Stereo Uncompressed or Bitstream?

Those are the main ones I'm unsure of. I get picture when I choose the maximum settings - i.e. 12-bit and PC-RGB, but that isn't to say those are the optimal choices. As for the audio, we're using the Pioneer speaker - the one that fits beneath the TV - so I'm assuming stereo uncompressed is that right choice, but bitstream also works. Not being an expert I find it difficult to tell the difference, though I'm sure someone will point out why one option is better than the other.

Last but not least, the Xbox seems to suggest it can turn a TV on automatically via HDMI-CEC, but I can't seem to get that to work. Is the Kuro too old to support such a function?

Thanks for your help.
 
Not sure about the first bit but my Kuro turns on when I turn on my Sky Q box (all connected to Denon amp) so HDMI-CEC should work for you yeah. 👍
 
My 8G never has properly interacted with my Sky Box. It’s my second tv now and I can’t remember the the detail. It’s second nature to switch the tv and sky on/off separately.
 
Not sure about the first bit but my Kuro turns on when I turn on my Sky Q box (all connected to Denon amp) so HDMI-CEC should work for you yeah. 👍
Thanks, the fact that it works for you encouraged me to investigate further. Went into the Kuro's menu for the first time in years and found the HDMI Control Setting section in options. Set it to Input 1 (where the Xbox is connected) and enabled both Power Off Control and Power-On Ready. Voila, the TV now turns on when the Xbox boots up, and turns off when the Xbox shuts down.

Quite pleased with the outcome I must say. Now just those other A/V settings, if anyone can shed any light.
 
We have a KRP-600A and it is has always been set to Drive Mode 2 as we were mainly on Sky.

We recently quit Sky and now primarily watch Netflix, Prime, and some catch-up such as iPlayer etc. - all via an Apple TV 4K.

As the Apple TV can match frame rates, I’ve recently looked at this again and believe we should change to Drive Mode 1 and Pure Cinema Advanced as most Netflix / Prime output is 24fps?

Does that make sense?
 
I still use my 500/600M to this day for everyday viewing. I still have no desire to upgrade to an OLED!!
 
Hi all, I'm a bit late to the Kuro party.

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with judder issues on the Kuro LX5090?

I recently got a second hand kuro LX5090 (21,899 hours on the clock) that had red tint and washed out blacks. I reset the clock and adjusted voltages to deal with a bit of magenta sparkling and now the picture quality is great but I'm still struggling with motion judder from certain video sources.

I used the youtube app on my PS4 to watch the LG OLED 4K HDR 60fps Jazz demo video and it looks amazing with no judder but when I tried to watch a One FC fight replay the judder was so bad that it was unwatchable. Sweeping aerial pans on Our Planet on PS4 Netflix app also have pretty significant judder. I also tried watching Baraka blu-ray on a Pioneer BDP-320 and it had a bit of judder.

I've tried different drive modes but it hasn't made much difference. I've seen some previous posts saying that pioneer engineers adjusted drive threshold settings to deal with it but they didn't really go into detail of how to do that.

Any advice is much appreciated!

Thanks in advance - Desmond
 
Hi all, I'm a bit late to the Kuro party.

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with judder issues on the Kuro LX5090?

I recently got a second hand kuro LX5090 (21,899 hours on the clock) that had red tint and washed out blacks. I reset the clock and adjusted voltages to deal with a bit of magenta sparkling and now the picture quality is great but I'm still struggling with motion judder from certain video sources.

I used the youtube app on my PS4 to watch the LG OLED 4K HDR 60fps Jazz demo video and it looks amazing with no judder but when I tried to watch a One FC fight replay the judder was so bad that it was unwatchable. Sweeping aerial pans on Our Planet on PS4 Netflix app also have pretty significant judder. I also tried watching Baraka blu-ray on a Pioneer BDP-320 and it had a bit of judder.

I've tried different drive modes but it hasn't made much difference. I've seen some previous posts saying that pioneer engineers adjusted drive threshold settings to deal with it but they didn't really go into detail of how to do that.

Any advice is much appreciated!

Thanks in advance - Desmond
Hi, this is a frame rate issue, most of Netflix is 24fps and the tv is displaying 50 or 60fps causing judder. I only have an 8th gen kuro and sky q/roku stick for Netflix so bear with me. You will need to check each app with each setting. Check you apple tv to see if it has a frame rate match setting to turn on. If you have an avr see if it has a video scaler and set it to 1080p 24hz. Settings on the tv maybe in different places but should be somewhere, go to picture settings, pure cinema, try off, standard, smooth and advance, if greyed out leave the tv on and turn off apple tv and you should have access. . Go to options and find drive mode and try 1 to 3. Try all these setting in combination. Take care.
 
Hi, this is a frame rate issue, most of Netflix is 24fps and the tv is displaying 50 or 60fps causing judder. I only have an 8th gen kuro and sky q/roku stick for Netflix so bear with me. You will need to check each app with each setting. Check you apple tv to see if it has a frame rate match setting to turn on. If you have an avr see if it has a video scaler and set it to 1080p 24hz. Settings on the tv maybe in different places but should be somewhere, go to picture settings, pure cinema, try off, standard, smooth and advance, if greyed out leave the tv on and turn off apple tv and you should have access. . Go to options and find drive mode and try 1 to 3. Try all these setting in combination. Take care.

I had suspected that it was an issue with the source video and not the TV since the 60fps footage was smooth as silk. I'll try using different pure cinema and drive settings, just testing Netflix on pure cinema advanced now and it seems to be smoother.

I have an Onkyo TX-NR609 in the loft so I'll trying running through that and see if it has video scaling as you suggest. I've just been running the hdmi straight from the PS4 into the back of the TV so going through the receiver might be a good idea.

Thanks for all the advice, I really appreciate it.
 
There are couple of settings to get 24hz correctly, one is so it displays at 72hz (triple of 24) pure cinema and drive mode.
 
There are couple of settings to get 24hz correctly, one is so it displays at 72hz (triple of 24) pure cinema and drive mode.
Hi, on my 8th gen kuro drive mode 3 is 72hz and pure cinema set to advance. The issue is the tv has to be supplied with a true 24hz source. What my tv can't do is display a 24hz picture from a 50hz source. For example Netflix from sky q. I assume its the same for a 9th gen. However using drive mode 3 and pure cinema advance it reduces it but doesn't eliminate it. To remove the judder sky goes to my avr which has a scaler and converts it to 24hz before it gets to the TV which solves the issue. Actually when using the avr scaler playback is judder free no matter what drive mode or pure cinema setting is used.
 
Wow. Studios are still buying kuros to use for reference grading and performance

Good on them
And there's a 500M still on the living room wall that aint going anywhere.
Likewise
I still use my 500/600M to this day for everyday viewing. I still have no desire to upgrade to an OLED!!
For sure, I aint getting rid of my 500A anytime soon.
 
My Pioneer LX5090 which I bought new in 2008 has developed the blue blink issue for the second time. I have reluctantly decided to move to a 4K OLED, I was wondering if it is worth my time trying to sell it for parts or should I just send it to recycling?
 
My Pioneer LX5090 which I bought new in 2008 has developed the blue blink issue for the second time. I have reluctantly decided to move to a 4K OLED, I was wondering if it is worth my time trying to sell it for parts or should I just send it to recycling?
At this point, I have a hard time imagining anyone paying anything for it. Maybe you'd get lucky but I doubt it. Even if it worked, most of the world has moved on. Those who consider themselves Videophiles have moved on to OLED. To the rest of the world it's just a really old mid-sized flat screen with bad resolution.
 
At this point, I have a hard time imagining anyone paying anything for it. Maybe you'd get lucky but I doubt it. Even if it worked, most of the world has moved on. Those who consider themselves Videophiles have moved on to OLED. To the rest of the world it's just a really old mid-sized flat screen with bad resolution.
Yes most have moved on to oled but them kuros still provide a great natural picture and are good all rounders.. however could be hanging on to it for a long time if trying to sell it...
I still have one in our family room but a Panasonic oled in my den only used for films but the heat the kuro gave out in that little room was unbearable in the summer..
 
Yes most have moved on to oled but them kuros still provide a great natural picture and are good all rounders.. however could be hanging on to it for a long time if trying to sell it...
I still have one in our family room but a Panasonic oled in my den only used for films but the heat the kuro gave out in that little room was unbearable in the summer..
I'd agree except for the blue blink. I think it's super unlikely anyone's going to buy it for parts. I too have moved on to OLED but still have Kuros in two rooms. I love them and will keep them as long as they work. After that, I'll hope someone is willing to take them for parts, saving me the time and expense of hauling them to the dump.

For what it's worth, I have a Sony A8G which has a gorgeous picture. In some ways it's clearly superior to the Kuros. It's more accurate in terms of colors, the blacks are darker and is 4k. The motion is perfectly fine (which is why I chose Sony over LG). Hands down, it's the better set. And yet I still love my Kuros and feel no need to replace them. They are gorgeous and I enjoy watching them just as much. They have a smokey picture quality which I find in some ways more artistic.

I can definitely understand why someone would keep a Kuro that's still working fine over spending more than $1,000 (probably closer to $2,000) on a new OLED. But unless one can find a steal on an old Kuro (by which I mean maybe $100 for a 9th gen model), it's time to move on.
 
probably long gone but found some interesting stuff re the 9.5/10g speculation having had 2 500a one is oct 08 the other jan 09 they both have have the same digital drive assy but the jan 09 has a slightly different pcb shape tiny difference but it has a superior picture so i swapped the board into the 2008 and the picture was improved the only difference is in the frequency distinction(which can be found if you run the qsi command)4 digits after the abl the 2008 board had 7560 in drivemode 1 for a 50hz signal the 09 board has 7575 for the same which seems to give a sharper cleaner picture like an led almost, both sets have around 7000 hours , i know the 500m qsi output is also 7575 so it looks like its being driven a different way
 

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