I have fixed my Philips 42PF5521D
the chirping is the circuit being kick started when the start up cap charge up enough to trigger the start up circuit to empty / kick start the process and if it does not start the cap then charges back up and kick start it again and so on till the IC takes over which when in fault mode produced the chirping noise.
So finaly after several hours of investigation I have got my plams tv up and running once again for as little as £5 in bits.
A also know the power supply inside out now like the back of my hand which is good as if it fails again i know whats supost to do what !
Hope this helpe someone out there who has the same issue as I did.
TVrepairman000
Amarante said:Hi JayCee,
Thank you for that, The assistant at Maplin was asking for that, wondering if they were 22 and 2.2 mircofarad or if it was something else
He was wondering also about the numbers and letters, like 6F and 6H, he didn't know what that was for?
Then If I go there with the above 22uF and 2.2uF with the proper voltage I'll be able to get the proper caps? They were not metal caps tho? Just regular one, is that OK?
Cheers
Hi JayCee,
Just looking at what you said properlly,
the numbers are the other way around? you said 2.2uF 35Volts and 22uF 50 volts,
while I got 2.2 50V and 22 35V???
Was that a typo from you?
Cheers.
Something totally different, but related to the TV. I did a software update via the usb while it was still working ish, trying to fix it, but as I didn't had the remote, once the update was done, I turned off the tv from the power button on the TV... Apparently its not something to do from what I now read in Philips manual
Anyway, when I got a remote working, I tried again to update the software via the USB again ( hoping to rectifie the bugger) but the TV doesn't recognise the auto play on the USB, it just recognise the USB with its contend ( pictures etc...) but without the update or the auto run?
The last time I could look at it, the update that was suppose to be there and the software updated to 2008 something was revert to 2007???
Is there any way I can get the auto run to update the tv again once its working, if ever... Or I really messed up the internal software turning off the TV with its own power button???
Thank you
Yes, it was a typo on my part.
The 6f and 6H will be manufacturers markings and you can forget about them.
The original caps were "surface-mount" types in an aluminium body but you can replace them with standard types okay.
Good luck.
I had the same problem with my 42in Philips plasma and I could not update via USB auto and/or manual..then I ask the Philips engineer for reason; he said that if there is any problem on TV update can not be started unless it fixed it.(My plasma has 6-3 red blinking and I could not find exact solution because of different PSU board)
I made the update once two tears ago before the 6-3 red blinking problem so engineer's explanations may be logic, please consider it.
Hello All,
I am told that I need to change the MC34067P, like the post above, but I don't know where to get it?
Any one has any idea?
THank you.
Oh, apparently 6 slow blinks and 3 fast blinks relate to it and the 3 caps above it, thse need to be changed as well apparently,
1:
6f 22 35V
and 2:
6H 2.2 50V
Any idea on those as well?
TV is a philips plasma 42PF9631 D/ 10
Thank you
The four 8A 250v ceramic cartridge fuses at all give 0.1 to 0.3 ohm readings which I guess means they haven't blown. The two fuseable resistors at R8012 and R8013 haven't blown either. Can the absence of relay clicks be caused by failed electrolyte capacitors alone or does it indicate other damage?This TV had two problems. It would intermittently drop into standby mode while operating. And when the entire display area changed between scenes at once, the panel would sometimes blank out for a moment.
After dropping into standby, the TV would need to be unplugged and replugged before it would turn on again.
I opened the service menu and an error 11 was registered. The service manual says this is an "I2C error while communicating with the 2D/3D combfilter Columbus". Could that have just been from low voltage?
Then the TV wouldn't turn on at all - the relays clicked twice, the red LED showed momentarily then it clicked off.
The front LED never displayed any blink codes except for the second to last time the TV turned on the front green LED blinked infinitely.
There are no burst capacitors on the power board (a Samsung LJ44-00101B PS-424-PH Rev0.65) nor does anything there look cooked. But about 2/5ths of the caps have subtly rounded quadrants whereas the rest are totally flat on top. Is this some manufacturing variation or the result of pressure buildup? These are Samxon KMOD caps from 2005.
I tried unplugging everything from the power board except the mains power connector. It still clicked thrice. After that, it won't click at all now. Is this normal behaviour when the PSU is in isolation? Does this indicate blown fuses? Would it be dangerous to the TV to plug everything back in and try again?
I found a repair tips guide for the power board (search "Philips PS- 424-PH LJ44-00101C PSU.pdf" ) that describes how to provoke the power board to display an error code, but I don't have he necessary shorting jigs and am a bit wary of trying to connect the pins directly as they are so close together.
Could this all still be consistent with just Samwha C8059/60 failures? The power board does seem to be the root of the problem but this is unlike the difficulties it has given others.
So I'd be thankful of any tips.
Have a Philips 42PF9952 with the same symptoms of powering up momentarily then going into standby mode.
Have checked all 15 pages of this thread but no-one has referred to this model which has the separate tuner (E) box therefore I'm struggling to identify which components to change.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Many many thanks to everybody on the forum i had the plasma screen failure
described as the blinking red light on the led, then i replaced caps 2662, 2663, and 2664.and the miracle occurred.....the screen was working again just as it should!!!!!
One recommendation though before replacing the 3 defective caps
it is better to check that they are really the ones to be replaced by
heating them softly with an hair heater(in my case the screen worked normally
AND THEN FAILED AGAIN WHEN BEING COLD )
AGAIN YOUR FORUM WAS SO HELPFULL WE HAVE NOTHING OF THIS QUALITY
AND INVOLVEMENT OF EVERY ONE IN FRANCE.
CONGRATULATIONS
HUGO