Philips plasma repair advice thread

Cheers.
Going to Maplin tomorrow see ifthey can get the MC34067P, doubt it tho as I couldn't get it in their site?
 
I have fixed my Philips 42PF5521D

the chirping is the circuit being kick started when the start up cap charge up enough to trigger the start up circuit to empty / kick start the process and if it does not start the cap then charges back up and kick start it again and so on till the IC takes over which when in fault mode produced the chirping noise.

So finaly after several hours of investigation I have got my plams tv up and running once again for as little as £5 in bits.

A also know the power supply inside out now like the back of my hand which is good as if it fails again i know whats supost to do what !

Hope this helpe someone out there who has the same issue as I did.

TVrepairman000



The last part is a little unclear. Are you saying that you replaced the IC and that was the eventual fault?

I've got a 42PF5521D panel and I've got a blinking green LED's error code, 2 fast one slow. I managed to get a second PSU board so just did a straight swap out of it - which fixed it for a few days, but it is slowly going back to the fault on startup. Unplugging it completely and back in again sends it to red led standby, which it comes on from, but has intermittent 'please wait' screens from time to time.

If it's this IC thats the problem then replacing that shouldn't be too bad. Can you recommend a place to get one, and is this it? http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/634433-ic-ctrlr-resonant-mode-hp-16dip-mc34067p.html
 
Last edited:
I went to Maplin, they don't have the MC34067P and for the 3 caps next to it they need more info :(
I only got what is writen on top of them, can anyone help there? I can get the MC34067P over the internet, but I need the 3 caps as I was told they are part of the fault and the reason why I got 6 slow blink and 3 fast blinks?
The caps are:
1X:
6f 22 35V
and 2X:
6h 2.2 50V
Maplin wantto know what their value is? I haven't got a clue???
Cheers :)
 
Last edited:
The caps are 2.2uF (microfarad) 35 Volt and 22uF 50 Volt.
 
Hi JayCee,
Thank you for that, The assistant at Maplin was asking for that, wondering if they were 22 and 2.2 mircofarad or if it was something else :)
He was wondering also about the numbers and letters, like 6F and 6H, he didn't know what that was for?
Then If I go there with the above 22uF and 2.2uF with the proper voltage I'll be able to get the proper caps? They were not metal caps tho? Just regular one, is that OK?
Cheers :)

Hi JayCee,
Just looking at what you said properlly,
the numbers are the other way around? you said 2.2uF 35Volts and 22uF 50 volts,
while I got 2.2 50V and 22 35V???
Was that a typo from you?
Cheers.
 
Last edited:
Amarante said:
Hi JayCee,
Thank you for that, The assistant at Maplin was asking for that, wondering if they were 22 and 2.2 mircofarad or if it was something else :)
He was wondering also about the numbers and letters, like 6F and 6H, he didn't know what that was for?
Then If I go there with the above 22uF and 2.2uF with the proper voltage I'll be able to get the proper caps? They were not metal caps tho? Just regular one, is that OK?
Cheers :)

Hi JayCee,
Just looking at what you said properlly,
the numbers are the other way around? you said 2.2uF 35Volts and 22uF 50 volts,
while I got 2.2 50V and 22 35V???
Was that a typo from you?
Cheers.

Yes, it was a typo on my part.
The 6f and 6H will be manufacturers markings and you can forget about them.
The original caps were "surface-mount" types in an aluminium body but you can replace them with standard types okay.
Good luck.
 
-- As an eBay Associate, AVForums earns from qualifying purchases --
Something totally different, but related to the TV. I did a software update via the usb while it was still working ish, trying to fix it, but as I didn't had the remote, once the update was done, I turned off the tv from the power button on the TV... Apparently its not something to do from what I now read in Philips manual :(
Anyway, when I got a remote working, I tried again to update the software via the USB again ( hoping to rectifie the bugger) but the TV doesn't recognise the auto play on the USB, it just recognise the USB with its contend ( pictures etc...) but without the update or the auto run?
The last time I could look at it, the update that was suppose to be there and the software updated to 2008 something was revert to 2007???
Is there any way I can get the auto run to update the tv again once its working, if ever... Or I really messed up the internal software turning off the TV with its own power button???
Thank you :)
 
TV Still dead.
swapped out a loads of caps + MC33368P & MC34067P. Same 6-3 red light fault.
Getting weird results on the voltages. Preconditioner 400V hot measures 0V from pin 6 of 5600(5660) transformer using hot ground (- side of cap 2616). But measuring 400V hot on the AUX psu board reads 700+ Volts!!! Measured across cap 2P16 and goes out of range (800V+) on the digital meter when measuring pin 2 of 7P02 (STP6NK60Z) to 1p05 heatsink as hot ground.
I tried a different meter and exactly the same reading.

How can the 400V rail be above 700 Volts?

Across cap 2P16 is 738V when green light on power up and Exactly 700V when red light is on after initial plug in or power up failed and 6-3 flashing.

Any ideas?

Also 3v3_display is ok and +5_STBY ok. And this is with PSU, AUx PSU, SSB and mains filter on the bench with no XSUS or video board connected.
 
Last edited:
Something totally different, but related to the TV. I did a software update via the usb while it was still working ish, trying to fix it, but as I didn't had the remote, once the update was done, I turned off the tv from the power button on the TV... Apparently its not something to do from what I now read in Philips manual :(
Anyway, when I got a remote working, I tried again to update the software via the USB again ( hoping to rectifie the bugger) but the TV doesn't recognise the auto play on the USB, it just recognise the USB with its contend ( pictures etc...) but without the update or the auto run?
The last time I could look at it, the update that was suppose to be there and the software updated to 2008 something was revert to 2007???
Is there any way I can get the auto run to update the tv again once its working, if ever... Or I really messed up the internal software turning off the TV with its own power button???
Thank you :)

I had the same problem with my 42in Philips plasma and I could not update via USB auto and/or manual..then I ask the Philips engineer for reason; he said that if there is any problem on TV update can not be started unless it fixed it.(My plasma has 6-3 red blinking and I could not find exact solution because of different PSU board)
I made the update once two tears ago before the 6-3 red blinking problem so engineer's explanations may be logic, please consider it.
 
Thank you for that :)
I thought I did something terribly wrong with the power button as it state to use the remote control, not the TV button...
I am stil waiting on some replies about the caps as I like to get the proper flat one if possible, but they either come from China, way too long, or are sold by 100s, way too many...
If by Monday I am still stuck I just go for the ordinary caps and got them soldered instead.
All the best :)
Thank you
 
Last edited:
Yes, it was a typo on my part.
The 6f and 6H will be manufacturers markings and you can forget about them.
The original caps were "surface-mount" types in an aluminium body but you can replace them with standard types okay.
Good luck.

Hi All,
Would those be OK?
10x Minature Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 2,2uF 50V | eBay

Maplin only had one left and I need 2 :(
I got this from Maplin tho, will that do as well?
Low Profile 5mm Electrolytic Capacitors : Electrolytic : Maplin Electronics
code KQ65

Thank you :)
 
-- As an eBay Associate, AVForums earns from qualifying purchases --
Thank you :)
I'll order the ebay now :)
Hopefully all be OK, up and running by the end of the week...
 
I had the same problem with my 42in Philips plasma and I could not update via USB auto and/or manual..then I ask the Philips engineer for reason; he said that if there is any problem on TV update can not be started unless it fixed it.(My plasma has 6-3 red blinking and I could not find exact solution because of different PSU board)
I made the update once two tears ago before the 6-3 red blinking problem so engineer's explanations may be logic, please consider it.

Hi,
Got a reply from Phillips.
""The first few things to check are that its a blank usb stick, formatting it before loading the autorun.upg softwrae is always reccomended.

Somtimes redownloading the software is useful as any slight corruption in there will effect the TVs ablity to update.

Lastly check the current software version as if you try and load the same or lower version of the software it will break the TV""

I just cheacked the software and I think I have thelatest, BX31E-0-101-0-0
but it state 16/ 12/ 2007
While the newer software was released in 2008 I think?
Anyway, good to know that the USB should be "blank" and that if we try to install the same softwae, the TV might die:eek:
 
Hello All,
I am told that I need to change the MC34067P, like the post above, but I don't know where to get it?
Any one has any idea?
THank you.
Oh, apparently 6 slow blinks and 3 fast blinks relate to it and the 3 caps above it, thse need to be changed as well apparently,
1:
6f 22 35V
and 2:
6H 2.2 50V
Any idea on those as well?
TV is a philips plasma 42PF9631 D/ 10
Thank you :smashin:

Just an update.
I changed all the above, 3 caps and the chip.
Got the TV back together last Saturday ( 2 days ago) and it solved the 6 slow and 3 fast blinking.
The TV has been working fine since then :thumbsup:
Just need the originlal remote control for it now to be trully happy as I need/ want to go into the reset/ adustment and all but I cannot do it with the side buttons :thumbsdow ( Philips is selling the remote for 54 pounds, very dear for a remote :blush: )
Then to all that read this, to all that have the same problem :lease: , this has fixed the TV, how long its going to last I don't know but so far I am a happy camper. The picture on those is really nice :D
The parts were 11.50 pounds, the soldering was 15 pounds.
What brought me here was the 6 slow and 3 fast red blinks.
I hope this can help other too :)
Thank you for all the help too :clap:
 
It is good news for me that you have solved your 6-3 red blinking problem..since my plasma(42PF9631D/10),it's 6-3 red blinking problem and its PSU board(3104 3284 2681 - 2K6) is exatly same (according to given P/N)I hope your experiences will be helpfull for me solving my problem as well.

Is it possible to indicate(mark) the replaced parts(caps&chip) on the PSU board picture attached.Please also attached the replacement parts details(as detail as possible)..eg.part number,values,quantitiy etc.
Please also check the PSU board which it is same as yours.

Hoping to hear you soon and I believe that this will also helpfull many other 9631D/10 users solving their common 6-3 problem.
Many thank in advance for your effort.

P.s..related with the remote please be consider Philips 32PFL5604H/12 LCD's remote same as with the 42PF9631D/10 plasma as functionality
http://www.sozluk.net/ingilizce/fonksiyonellik.htmlbut cheaper than 42 in plasma(around 8 € at European seller's web sites)..I now because I have both TVs in my home and I can use their remotes with each other
check the link http://www.remotes.lt/product.php?id_product=871
 

Attachments

  • SANY0052.jpg
    SANY0052.jpg
    132.8 KB · Views: 1,404
Thank you for the link of the remote. It can be really handy. I love the original tho, its a really nice one, but I may got the other version tho as money is tight...
About the Caps I mentionned what I got in post 637 with the links some from Maplin some from ebay.
As JayCee pointed out, the "long legs" caps were Ok as replacement for the short Alu body as I couln't get them fast enough or only by the 100s...
The Chip was bought on ebay:
eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
I have circled in red the area where the chip and the caps have been replaced on my board. They are next to each other. See picture, Top left.
I only new about those as I brought the board to a plasmatv shop, he looked at some internet pages and told me that the 6 blink 3 blink is a failure of those 4 parts and they need to be replaced.
After days on the internet, this guy had the solution in a blink of an eye...
Hope it help.
If you need more details let me know :)
All the best :smashin:
 

Attachments

  • SANY0052.jpg
    SANY0052.jpg
    133.2 KB · Views: 1,178
Last edited:
-- As an eBay Associate, AVForums earns from qualifying purchases --
42pf9631d/10 PSU 310432642681

Does anyone know where the relys get there voltage from? After replacing 2485 near the relays (and some other parts) the relays stopped switching. The replacement cap tested good and i swapped it again just in case. But no joy. I thought I might have toasted one of the nearby trasistors but the entire area was dead apart from Supply_ON signal. Ran a bypass from +5v_STBY at cap 2533. Which made the relays act as per normal. But this causes a fault voltage of 6.5v on pin 10 of MC34067P!
The schematic says that the relays can get there voltage from either +5V_STBY, +5V_INT_SW, +9V_STBY or RELAY_VOLTAGE. depending on what jumpers are in place. But all continuity checks say none of the jumpers are there and I can't work out where they were getting power from before I broke whatever it is that I killed?
On my board. +5V_STBY and +5V_INT_SW are linked somewhere. +9V isnt an option as none of the components on the standby section of AD1 exist and I have no clue where RELAY_VOLTAGE is generated??? :lease:

P>S. I have replaced a hell of a lot of caps and a few other components. I used the constant turn it on/off/on/off/onn till it worked method for about a month after the initial 6_3 error. This running it while there was a problem has caused tons of damage to the psu!. So fix it quick, don't keep forcing it to work.
 
Hi, I have a 50 inch phillips plasma model no. 50PF7220A. Just got back from vacation, turned on the tv, it worked for about an hour when the bottom half of the picture went black. The top half still has a good picture and the sound is ok. Can anyone help with might be the problem? Think it might be the y-buffer.

Thanks in advance...
 
hi all
i have problem with my tv Philips 42FD9954/17s (Power Supply 3122357 21373) when turned on, the green led is five seconds and turns to the Blinking red, and so it is no sound or image, in the power supply I checked almost all the capacitors and everything seems normal. I need help if anyone had the same problem and he gets to solve it... please help.
Philips%2042FD9954-17S%20(5).JPG
 
I've read all the postings and it's hopefull to read how many people managed to repair their tv, same that it occurs so many times. And yes i have it as well:( i have a bdh5021v/00 and my problem sound similar to the one all the people have had.
1- only one click when I put the power on
2- I have power but screen stays black
3- My front led stays green
4- my inner leds there are 6 from whom 3 burn

Can anybody tell me which caps to replace?

Humm can't upload pic from ipad...aaahhhhh!

Can anybody help me out?

Thank in advance
 
I'm trying to make a Philips 42PF7320 work.

If I was to replace the LJ44-00101B power board with a working one, is it a case of plug-and-play, or does the replacement power board need to be specifically set up for the particular TV model? I'm assuming it's the former but I'd like to make sure.

This is what I wrote elsewhere:
This TV had two problems. It would intermittently drop into standby mode while operating. And when the entire display area changed between scenes at once, the panel would sometimes blank out for a moment.

After dropping into standby, the TV would need to be unplugged and replugged before it would turn on again.

I opened the service menu and an error 11 was registered. The service manual says this is an "I2C error while communicating with the 2D/3D combfilter Columbus". Could that have just been from low voltage?

Then the TV wouldn't turn on at all - the relays clicked twice, the red LED showed momentarily then it clicked off.

The front LED never displayed any blink codes except for the second to last time the TV turned on the front green LED blinked infinitely.

There are no burst capacitors on the power board (a Samsung LJ44-00101B PS-424-PH Rev0.65) nor does anything there look cooked. But about 2/5ths of the caps have subtly rounded quadrants whereas the rest are totally flat on top. Is this some manufacturing variation or the result of pressure buildup? These are Samxon KMOD caps from 2005.

I tried unplugging everything from the power board except the mains power connector. It still clicked thrice. After that, it won't click at all now. Is this normal behaviour when the PSU is in isolation? Does this indicate blown fuses? Would it be dangerous to the TV to plug everything back in and try again?

I found a repair tips guide for the power board (search "Philips PS- 424-PH LJ44-00101C PSU.pdf" ) that describes how to provoke the power board to display an error code, but I don't have he necessary shorting jigs and am a bit wary of trying to connect the pins directly as they are so close together.

Could this all still be consistent with just Samwha C8059/60 failures? The power board does seem to be the root of the problem but this is unlike the difficulties it has given others.
So I'd be thankful of any tips.
The four 8A 250v ceramic cartridge fuses at all give 0.1 to 0.3 ohm readings which I guess means they haven't blown. The two fuseable resistors at R8012 and R8013 haven't blown either. Can the absence of relay clicks be caused by failed electrolyte capacitors alone or does it indicate other damage?
 
Have a Philips 42PF9952 with the same symptoms of powering up momentarily then going into standby mode.
Have checked all 15 pages of this thread but no-one has referred to this model which has the separate tuner (E) box therefore I'm struggling to identify which components to change.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Dear DiJit,

I have a Tv same model as yours and has the same symptom. Have you got an answer to your query, if so I would most apprecite your help.

Jean Luc Yu

Best regards

:lease:
 
Many many thanks to everybody on the forum i had the plasma screen failure
described as the blinking red light on the led, then i replaced caps 2662, 2663, and 2664.and the miracle occurred.....the screen was working again just as it should!!!!!
One recommendation though before replacing the 3 defective caps
it is better to check that they are really the ones to be replaced by
heating them softly with an hair heater(in my case the screen worked normally
AND THEN FAILED AGAIN WHEN BEING COLD )

AGAIN YOUR FORUM WAS SO HELPFULL WE HAVE NOTHING OF THIS QUALITY
AND INVOLVEMENT OF EVERY ONE IN FRANCE.
CONGRATULATIONS :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :clap:

HUGO

Yo dude, how can I get the service manual for the 50 inch plasma Philips? I have to do some repairs on one for a customer n the Philips website doesn't have the service or repair manual, only the user manual which is useless.???
 

The latest video from AVForums

TV Buying Guide - Which TV Is Best For You?
Subscribe to our YouTube channel
Back
Top Bottom