Philips OLED motion settings details

jml8

Standard Member
Happy (mostly!) 48OLED806 owner here, but trying to adjust to 24p stutter. Most content is excellent, but certain pans do suffer, giving a distracting effect where, to me, it feels like you can almost see the consecutive frames together. It's actually some pixar stuff where this stands out most so far, perhaps because it's so bright and crisp, and without a real 'shutter-speed' motion can sometimes be too sharp?

Anyway, I'm planning to play around with motion settings to get a compromise (assuming I don't just continue adjusting how I perceive), but it's not very clear what some of the specific settings actually do, so seeking clarification here.

It seems we have most control under 'Personal' motion style, being able to select from 0-10 in 'Perfect Natural Motion' and 'Perfect Clear Motion': but what do these actually do?
'Perfect Natural Motion' generally seems to smooth/blur between frames, with a default of 0 doing nothing, up to 10 with the most smoothing, so I guess this is how much interpolation is added? What do people think is a good compromise here (if there is one?).
'Perfect Clear Motion' I have not really played with so much, but not immediately obvious what its function is anyway.
And if you choose personal and tweak these, do you still get correct pulldown, 24 frame handling etc., as under 'Pure Cinema', or am I misunderstanding something?

I was really keen on the idea of black frame insertion ('Fast Motion Clarity') but unfortunately it doesn't really seem to make a discernible difference in terms of 24 frame stutter to me.
What is the actual difference between Min, Med and Max for this setting?
Max seems to have some kind of compensating brightness boost, but do they differ in terms of black frame frequency too? Maybe I need to do a bit more testing.
I have no problem with the dimming they bring about, because the display is already more than bright enough for me - I even have the various HDR settings with light boost 'medium' rather than 'maximum', as I found max just too much for most of my viewing (do let me know if this is an HDR sin and/or I'm compromising accuracy even before I get up to limiting peak brightness!).
 

jml8

Standard Member
Nobody..? :)

As a bit of an update from my end, I'm finding I am getting less distracted by the stutter and so haven't played around with interpolation any more. I don't think it's just the fast response time on OLED, but also that it stands out due to brightness (in HDR the OLED is often a lot brighter than I'd had LCDs in the past - depends on content of course), larger screen size (I'm still only 48", but up from 43), and critically looking around the image in 'TV appraisal mode' rather than attention being drawn to focal point as in normal watching. I'll often catch a particularly bad scene for 24p stutter on the OLED, check it out on an LCD, and find it's really not much better on LCD when you start looking for it.

Would still be great if anyone has more details on what the different BFI settings actually do...
 

claudewen

Novice Member
According to my unprofessional research with my PML9636, there's a possible that the Philips had unconsciously broken Fast motion Clarity due to turn on BFI passively in their firmware code. That makes Fast motion Clarity can only lower brightness. I guess that's the reason why you cannot sense any different between off to high in motion. And there's only one way to turn off BFI is to active VRR due to their incompatible.
 

jml8

Standard Member
I don't think BFI has ever turned on passively - although I think they'd have to do things differently on their OLEDs vs mini-LEDs, so they may well have messed something up on the PML9636!

I managed to play around with high frame rate recording (120 fps on my phone camera - not particularly reliable I know, but still gives some insight), and all I could really judge was there there still seem to be 5 full frames (on 24p content, so 5:5 pulldown) under all the BFI settings, so I guess it's that from BFI min-max it is increasing the portion of the frame the pixels are actually lit for? Would still be really interested if anyone else has a bit more knowledge (or a superior way to record and explore themselves)!
 

Hallonz

Standard Member
Perfect Natural Motion= Interpolation for low framerate content, ”de-judder” on other TVs. Perfect Clear Motion=De-blur for high framerate content (ie 50/60hz). According to HDTVTest even with motion disabled there is still some interpolation happening thanks to the mediatek chipset. And Pure Cinema is the option that tells the TV to do 5:5 pulldown. As regards to Philips BFI implementation, I am curious to find out more as well.
 

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