Philips OLED+935 TV Review & Comments

G a f f e r

Well-known Member
Just sitting back and watching the TV day to day and enjoying it for what it is, here are my thoughts after about a month:

55" vs 65" - Initially I fully planned on buying the 65" but it ended up being £800 :eek: more than the 55" and that saving easily allowed me to purchase the Tumble Dryer I also needed along with the mountain of other things for the house (seeing as I've only recently moved in and there's a lot of stuff still to buy).....55 is within the range for my viewing distance and it made SWMBO easier to placate too :thumbsup:.

Ambilight - Never having had this before I loved it at first. Then I noticed that for about the first 2 weeks I was actually looking at the Ambilight more than the actual picture on screen. Forward wind to now and when focusing on the content, I don't really notice the Ambilight anymore, save a couple of things. Firstly it does provide a tad more immersion imo (I think it does this by tricking my brain into thinking the screen is larger than it is) and secondly it looks great at night with all the other lights off. However, it's not the "game changer" it's cracked up to be and I'd be OK without it on any future set I owned.

Sound - I had to start from scratch so, apart from the spare sub I had lying around, had no audio system. Meaning for me this TV was great VFM - B&W sound bar built in along with OLED. The audio is very clear and the Atmos appears to provide a good "surround effect" that most TVs have in their settings. It in now way measures up to a dedicated 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound system but is still the best in built audio I have heard on a telly.

Sub Out - Which brings me on to the sub out. Due to the soundbar, this is one of the few TVs to offer this and boy does the sound improve immensely with a properly calibrated subwoofer in tow (I'm using it with a DSPeaker 8033C with outboard power supply). Gives a very cinematic experience with one caveat - poor firmware programming from Philips. Every time you cycle the TV, it forgets the sub out setting and reverts to turning it off. Meaning at EVERY switch on you have to navigate through a clunky UI to switch it back on again - 19 button presses in total.....E V E R Y T I M E Y O U S W I T C H I T O N.

A combination of these mean I'd give the sound a good 7/10 - would score higher but is let down by the dumb firmware bug that I have an inkling that Philips will never bother fixing.

PQ - Fantastic. On it's own one of the very best I've seen and it only gets better with higher quality content (4K looks stunning). It doesn't quite reach the heights of my previous calibrated Kuro but It's excellent all the same. Some things worth mentioning are:
ABL. Not noticeable on most images but very much so on white background logos (like at the end of a JL or currys advert for instance). Overall therefore not a problem for 99% of viewing that others seem to make out imho.
Motion is actually an issue in that the higher the smoothness setting, the more the following problem manifests. Around any moving object there appear small blocks of "blurriness". It's tricky to describe but once you notice it, you'll keep noticing it. It's definitely the "Perfect Motion" setting because the lower you have this setting, the more it disappears, with "Pure Cinema" (none) and "Movie" (minimum interpolation) settings making this effect disappear, but "Smooth" (heavy interpolation) making it appear with a vengeance. To see what I mean, navigate to Amazon Prime Video and select Pink Fong's Baby Shark (before you say it, I have a 3yo) which is a good quality HD version. At the point where the small fish are intro'd, they swim in a circle. It looks like a complete mess with "Perfect Motion" set to most smooth. Reduce it's intensity (to Movie or PerfCinema) and it goes away.
Luckily, on most Film watching (where it's on Movie setting) it's unnoticeable and other TV watching I'd say it's obvious maybe 50% of the time then only, but that does make it worth mentioing.

I would give the picture 9/10 - yes it's dependant on source with 4K and HD looking brilliant but SD is still very watchable on this telly

GUI - I was excited to try out my first Android TV but I must say it's not a good UI. Why is there no dedicated "settings" button? Instead press what you think is the Settings button for a right hand menu to appear - then a second set of presses to navigate to Frequent Settings. Press this. Now a Left hand menu appears. Now more button presses down to "All settings". Press this option. NOW you are in what you SHOULD have been in with a single button click at the beginning. Really Philips? Seriously? One of the most poorly thought out GUIs I have ever had the misfortune of experiencing recently (eclipsed by LGs woeful WebOS 2.0, but still not good in of itself). Otherwise it at least appears snappy enough and the app store has enough content to not warrant me buying a separate Apple TV for it.

Remote - The GUI is made worse by the terrible remote. All flat with flush, non-distinct buttons that all flow into each other meaning that you can no longer "feel" your way around the remote to press what you want, now you have to physically look at the remote first. Not only that but it's VERY easy to press the wrong button by mistake (e.g. the Blue button as opposed to the program up button) and the buttons themselves don't have a satisfying give to them. It's almost like going from a normal keyboard to Apple's first incarnation of it's terrible butterfly KB. Fine if you'd never experienced better before but horrible to use if you're used to better (which unfortunately in this case appears to be 99% of any other remotes ever made). It's genuinely terrible from an ergonomic perspective and I'm seriously considering buying a AllforOne Philips remote to replace it.
The backlight is also a bit of a miss in that in a dark room you have to press it first for it to light up and it doesn't stay lit for very long so you're forever pressing unnecessary buttons in order to get it to light up enough to see the button you wanted to press initially.....

The remote is part of the interface to the GUI so together I'd score the GUI a 6/10


So that’s my initial thoughts. Excellent PQ, Great SQ (let down by poor firnware) and clunky GUI (that could/should be better) made worse by a terrible remote.....but overall still happy for the price I paid for it :D
 

Clearandcolour

Active Member
Just sitting back and watching the TV day to day and enjoying it for what it is, here are my thoughts after about a month:

55" vs 65" - Initially I fully planned on buying the 65" but it ended up being £800 :eek: more than the 55" and that saving easily allowed me to purchase the Tumble Dryer I also needed along with the mountain of other things for the house (seeing as I've only recently moved in and there's a lot of stuff still to buy).....55 is within the range for my viewing distance and it made SWMBO easier to placate too :thumbsup:.

Ambilight - Never having had this before I loved it at first. Then I noticed that for about the first 2 weeks I was actually looking at the Ambilight more than the actual picture on screen. Forward wind to now and when focusing on the content, I don't really notice the Ambilight anymore, save a couple of things. Firstly it does provide a tad more immersion imo (I think it does this by tricking my brain into thinking the screen is larger than it is) and secondly it looks great at night with all the other lights off. However, it's not the "game changer" it's cracked up to be and I'd be OK without it on any future set I owned.

Sound - I had to start from scratch so, apart from the spare sub I had lying around, had no audio system. Meaning for me this TV was great VFM - B&W sound bar built in along with OLED. The audio is very clear and the Atmos appears to provide a good "surround effect" that most TVs have in their settings. It in now way measures up to a dedicated 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound system but is still the best in built audio I have heard on a telly.

Sub Out - Which brings me on to the sub out. Due to the soundbar, this is one of the few TVs to offer this and boy does the sound improve immensely with a properly calibrated subwoofer in tow (I'm using it with a DSPeaker 8033C with outboard power supply). Gives a very cinematic experience with one caveat - poor firmware programming from Philips. Every time you cycle the TV, it forgets the sub out setting and reverts to turning it off. Meaning at EVERY switch on you have to navigate through a clunky UI to switch it back on again - 19 button presses in total.....E V E R Y T I M E Y O U S W I T C H I T O N.

A combination of these mean I'd give the sound a good 7/10 - would score higher but is let down by the dumb firmware bug that I have an inkling that Philips will never bother fixing.

PQ - Fantastic. On it's own one of the very best I've seen and it only gets better with higher quality content (4K looks stunning). It doesn't quite reach the heights of my previous calibrated Kuro but It's excellent all the same. Some things worth mentioning are:
ABL. Not noticeable on most images but very much so on white background logos (like at the end of a JL or currys advert for instance). Overall therefore not a problem for 99% of viewing that others seem to make out imho.
Motion is actually an issue in that the higher the smoothness setting, the more the following problem manifests. Around any moving object there appear small blocks of "blurriness". It's tricky to describe but once you notice it, you'll keep noticing it. It's definitely the "Perfect Motion" setting because the lower you have this setting, the more it disappears, with "Pure Cinema" (none) and "Movie" (minimum interpolation) settings making this effect disappear, but "Smooth" (heavy interpolation) making it appear with a vengeance. To see what I mean, navigate to Amazon Prime Video and select Pink Fong's Baby Shark (before you say it, I have a 3yo) which is a good quality HD version. At the point where the small fish are intro'd, they swim in a circle. It looks like a complete mess with "Perfect Motion" set to most smooth. Reduce it's intensity (to Movie or PerfCinema) and it goes away.
Luckily, on most Film watching (where it's on Movie setting) it's unnoticeable and other TV watching I'd say it's obvious maybe 50% of the time then only, but that does make it worth mentioing.

I would give the picture 9/10 - yes it's dependant on source with 4K and HD looking brilliant but SD is still very watchable on this telly

GUI - I was excited to try out my first Android TV but I must say it's not a good UI. Why is there no dedicated "settings" button? Instead press what you think is the Settings button for a right hand menu to appear - then a second set of presses to navigate to Frequent Settings. Press this. Now a Left hand menu appears. Now more button presses down to "All settings". Press this option. NOW you are in what you SHOULD have been in with a single button click at the beginning. Really Philips? Seriously? One of the most poorly thought out GUIs I have ever had the misfortune of experiencing recently (eclipsed by LGs woeful WebOS 2.0, but still not good in of itself). Otherwise it at least appears snappy enough and the app store has enough content to not warrant me buying a separate Apple TV for it.

Remote - The GUI is made worse by the terrible remote. All flat with flush, non-distinct buttons that all flow into each other meaning that you can no longer "feel" your way around the remote to press what you want, now you have to physically look at the remote first. Not only that but it's VERY easy to press the wrong button by mistake (e.g. the Blue button as opposed to the program up button) and the buttons themselves don't have a satisfying give to them. It's almost like going from a normal keyboard to Apple's first incarnation of it's terrible butterfly KB. Fine if you'd never experienced better before but horrible to use if you're used to better (which unfortunately in this case appears to be 99% of any other remotes ever made). It's genuinely terrible from an ergonomic perspective and I'm seriously considering buying a AllforOne Philips remote to replace it.
The backlight is also a bit of a miss in that in a dark room you have to press it first for it to light up and it doesn't stay lit for very long so you're forever pressing unnecessary buttons in order to get it to light up enough to see the button you wanted to press initially.....

The remote is part of the interface to the GUI so together I'd score the GUI a 6/10


So that’s my initial thoughts. Excellent PQ, Great SQ (let down by poor firnware) and clunky GUI (that could/should be better) made worse by a terrible remote.....but overall still happy for the price I paid for it :D
I have the 855 oled.. The picture is excellent.... I only watch cable-tv 1080i.. But the troublesome motion makes it disappointing.. I watch in "natural" ... I have to selct smooth motion.. Otherwise the faces are shivering. But with smooth I get the mismatches in the bigger movements..
I come from a crt (28 inch). I've never seen any movement on that tv that got my attention.. Now it's all in. But I have gotten used to it.. But it takes me out of the spell !!
 

Motionflow

Standard Member
I have the 855 oled.. The picture is excellent.... I only watch cable-tv 1080i.. But the troublesome motion makes it disappointing.. I watch in "natural" ... I have to selct smooth motion.. Otherwise the faces are shivering. But with smooth I get the mismatches in the bigger movements..
I come from a crt (28 inch). I've never seen any movement on that tv that got my attention.. Now it's all in. But I have gotten used to it.. But it takes me out of the spell !!
How is it compared to the 935 motion?
 

mbilejo

Active Member
Just sitting back and watching the TV day to day and enjoying it for what it is, here are my thoughts after about a month:

55" vs 65" - Initially I fully planned on buying the 65" but it ended up being £800 :eek: more than the 55" and that saving easily allowed me to purchase the Tumble Dryer I also needed along with the mountain of other things for the house (seeing as I've only recently moved in and there's a lot of stuff still to buy).....55 is within the range for my viewing distance and it made SWMBO easier to placate too :thumbsup:.

Ambilight - Never having had this before I loved it at first. Then I noticed that for about the first 2 weeks I was actually looking at the Ambilight more than the actual picture on screen. Forward wind to now and when focusing on the content, I don't really notice the Ambilight anymore, save a couple of things. Firstly it does provide a tad more immersion imo (I think it does this by tricking my brain into thinking the screen is larger than it is) and secondly it looks great at night with all the other lights off. However, it's not the "game changer" it's cracked up to be and I'd be OK without it on any future set I owned.

Sound - I had to start from scratch so, apart from the spare sub I had lying around, had no audio system. Meaning for me this TV was great VFM - B&W sound bar built in along with OLED. The audio is very clear and the Atmos appears to provide a good "surround effect" that most TVs have in their settings. It in now way measures up to a dedicated 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound system but is still the best in built audio I have heard on a telly.

Sub Out - Which brings me on to the sub out. Due to the soundbar, this is one of the few TVs to offer this and boy does the sound improve immensely with a properly calibrated subwoofer in tow (I'm using it with a DSPeaker 8033C with outboard power supply). Gives a very cinematic experience with one caveat - poor firmware programming from Philips. Every time you cycle the TV, it forgets the sub out setting and reverts to turning it off. Meaning at EVERY switch on you have to navigate through a clunky UI to switch it back on again - 19 button presses in total.....E V E R Y T I M E Y O U S W I T C H I T O N.

A combination of these mean I'd give the sound a good 7/10 - would score higher but is let down by the dumb firmware bug that I have an inkling that Philips will never bother fixing.

PQ - Fantastic. On it's own one of the very best I've seen and it only gets better with higher quality content (4K looks stunning). It doesn't quite reach the heights of my previous calibrated Kuro but It's excellent all the same. Some things worth mentioning are:
ABL. Not noticeable on most images but very much so on white background logos (like at the end of a JL or currys advert for instance). Overall therefore not a problem for 99% of viewing that others seem to make out imho.
Motion is actually an issue in that the higher the smoothness setting, the more the following problem manifests. Around any moving object there appear small blocks of "blurriness". It's tricky to describe but once you notice it, you'll keep noticing it. It's definitely the "Perfect Motion" setting because the lower you have this setting, the more it disappears, with "Pure Cinema" (none) and "Movie" (minimum interpolation) settings making this effect disappear, but "Smooth" (heavy interpolation) making it appear with a vengeance. To see what I mean, navigate to Amazon Prime Video and select Pink Fong's Baby Shark (before you say it, I have a 3yo) which is a good quality HD version. At the point where the small fish are intro'd, they swim in a circle. It looks like a complete mess with "Perfect Motion" set to most smooth. Reduce it's intensity (to Movie or PerfCinema) and it goes away.
Luckily, on most Film watching (where it's on Movie setting) it's unnoticeable and other TV watching I'd say it's obvious maybe 50% of the time then only, but that does make it worth mentioing.

I would give the picture 9/10 - yes it's dependant on source with 4K and HD looking brilliant but SD is still very watchable on this telly

GUI - I was excited to try out my first Android TV but I must say it's not a good UI. Why is there no dedicated "settings" button? Instead press what you think is the Settings button for a right hand menu to appear - then a second set of presses to navigate to Frequent Settings. Press this. Now a Left hand menu appears. Now more button presses down to "All settings". Press this option. NOW you are in what you SHOULD have been in with a single button click at the beginning. Really Philips? Seriously? One of the most poorly thought out GUIs I have ever had the misfortune of experiencing recently (eclipsed by LGs woeful WebOS 2.0, but still not good in of itself). Otherwise it at least appears snappy enough and the app store has enough content to not warrant me buying a separate Apple TV for it.

Remote - The GUI is made worse by the terrible remote. All flat with flush, non-distinct buttons that all flow into each other meaning that you can no longer "feel" your way around the remote to press what you want, now you have to physically look at the remote first. Not only that but it's VERY easy to press the wrong button by mistake (e.g. the Blue button as opposed to the program up button) and the buttons themselves don't have a satisfying give to them. It's almost like going from a normal keyboard to Apple's first incarnation of it's terrible butterfly KB. Fine if you'd never experienced better before but horrible to use if you're used to better (which unfortunately in this case appears to be 99% of any other remotes ever made). It's genuinely terrible from an ergonomic perspective and I'm seriously considering buying a AllforOne Philips remote to replace it.
The backlight is also a bit of a miss in that in a dark room you have to press it first for it to light up and it doesn't stay lit for very long so you're forever pressing unnecessary buttons in order to get it to light up enough to see the button you wanted to press initially.....

The remote is part of the interface to the GUI so together I'd score the GUI a 6/10


So that’s my initial thoughts. Excellent PQ, Great SQ (let down by poor firnware) and clunky GUI (that could/should be better) made worse by a terrible remote.....but overall still happy for the price I paid for it :D

After a time, you will stop noticing ambilight when it's on, but turn it off and it feels like something big is missing. IMO that's where is value is - not in distracting you with it's presence but in adding something that you miss the second it's taken away.

12 years of ambilight for me and it's now impossible for me to buy anything else.
 

AdrenalineRush

Novice Member
Got the boxed 935 55" landed at my doorstep. It would be a replacing an old Samsung 50" with ambilight provided by the rare DreamScreen Hub and enhance lighting strips.

Wall mount is the only option to go for me depending on the room size / clutter and viewing distance.

Couple of things I needed to know from someone having a similar setup.

1. Will it require any specific VESA mounting to be purchased separately. I already have the current standard VESA mount holding a 50 inch, the kind where you have a fixed metal backplate rail on the wall and two vertical brackets (with variable screw holes) screwed in the rear body shell of the TV, so you can hook/hang them on the rail.

2. I already have an Onkyo 7.1 AV received with Jamo spekaers. Is there/can there be any possible set up scenario where I can use the included B&W soundbar along with my existing AV setup. I dont want to choose from either of one of them.

Thanks for your replies.
 

mbilejo

Active Member
Got the boxed 935 55" landed at my doorstep. It would be a replacing an old Samsung 50" with ambilight provided by the rare DreamScreen Hub and enhance lighting strips.

Wall mount is the only option to go for me depending on the room size / clutter and viewing distance.

Couple of things I needed to know from someone having a similar setup.

1. Will it require any specific VESA mounting to be purchased separately. I already have the current standard VESA mount holding a 50 inch, the kind where you have a fixed metal backplate rail on the wall and two vertical brackets (with variable screw holes) screwed in the rear body shell of the TV, so you can hook/hang them on the rail.

2. I already have an Onkyo 7.1 AV received with Jamo spekaers. Is there/can there be any possible set up scenario where I can use the included B&W soundbar along with my existing AV setup. I dont want to choose from either of one of them.

Thanks for your replies.

1. No special VESA mount required, provided yours accommodates the same VESA size as the 55" 935 (probably 200 x 200?). If it held a 50" previously, then it probably does.

You may want to use the spacer screws Philips provide in the box to push the TV out from the wall, to give the best ambilight experience. But that's personal preference.

2. You can have both connected, no problem. The soundbar uses a special connection and doesn't interfere with whichever method you've connected to your Onkyo. You can choose which sound output you want to use at any time - TV speakers (i.e. soundbar), AV system or you could even use both at the same time if you wanted to but I'm not sure how that would sound...
 

AFM1

Active Member
You may want to use the spacer screws Philips provide in the box to push the TV out from the wall, to give the best ambilight experience. But that's personal preference.
I've not mounted mine yet but do plan to, but....I think you have to use the spacers, rather than it being a choice. The spacers I believe are to off set the TV from the wall to accommodate the soundbar bracket below, so it is level and vertical.

Edit- I may be wrong of course, but that's how I understand it, and I think what was said to me a few pages back.
 

mbilejo

Active Member
I've not mounted mine yet but do plan to, but....I think you have to use the spacers, rather than it being a choice. The spacers I believe are to off set the TV from the wall to accommodate the soundbar bracket below, so it is level and vertical.

Edit- I may be wrong of course, but that's how I understand it, and I think what was said to me a few pages back.


That would make sense.

I don't use my soundbar, just my AV receiver, so I never had need to consider that. I just put the TV straight onto the wall when I got it and plugged it straight into my Onkyo.

I was just happy they were there to allow the TV some distance from the wall for the ambilight.
 

AdrenalineRush

Novice Member
Thanks for your reply.

you could even use both at the same time if you wanted to but I'm not sure how that would sound...

This is an area I sought more ideas, I mean if someone has done a similar set up to share the listening experience. I mean as I understand, I have a range of players (HTPC, Roky, Amazon FireTV, PS3/PS4/Xbox) all of which are connected via HDMI to the onkyo AV INPUT. Then from Onkyo only one HDMI OUT is connected to the TV. The input source switching is done on the AV receiver.

So my assumption in my very limited understanding is that the AV receiver detects and processes the raw audio signal (bitstream) for compatible Dolby/DTS signal formats, coming in from the player devices, like an audio sink (not sure it is the right analogy or not), and then only the video signal is sent to the TV via HDMI out. The provided B&W soundbar is connected to and taking input from the TV, so how in such case any sound would be passed to the sound bar.

If my above assumption is not correct, then sound bar would also play the same audio signal 5.1/7.1 and may result in overlap/cross over of sound effects coming from the receiver, maybe the final sound stage would be messy in such case. Not sure if there is an option to use the sound bar as a center channel only for dialogue.

Will do my experiments to post here, meanwhile would be nice to hear from anyone already done this.
 

mbilejo

Active Member
Thanks for your reply.



This is an area I sought more ideas, I mean if someone has done a similar set up to share the listening experience. I mean as I understand, I have a range of players (HTPC, Roky, Amazon FireTV, PS3/PS4/Xbox) all of which are connected via HDMI to the onkyo AV INPUT. Then from Onkyo only one HDMI OUT is connected to the TV. The input source switching is done on the AV receiver.

So my assumption in my very limited understanding is that the AV receiver detects and processes the raw audio signal (bitstream) for compatible Dolby/DTS signal formats, coming in from the player devices, like an audio sink (not sure it is the right analogy or not), and then only the video signal is sent to the TV via HDMI out. The provided B&W soundbar is connected to and taking input from the TV, so how in such case any sound would be passed to the sound bar.

If my above assumption is not correct, then sound bar would also play the same audio signal 5.1/7.1 and may result in overlap/cross over of sound effects coming from the receiver, maybe the final sound stage would be messy in such case. Not sure if there is an option to use the sound bar as a center channel only for dialogue.

Will do my experiments to post here, meanwhile would be nice to hear from anyone already done this.

I use an Onkyo 7.1 receiver too.

The Onkyo can pass through audio from the devices (e.g. Fire Stick) plugged into it, so the TV can receive the sound as well as the picture from the Fire Stick. I have had Atmos passed trhough to the TV (and thus the soundbar) from my Sky Q box plugged into the Onkyo, so the idea of using the soundbar sometimes, and the Onkyo at other times, is definitely doable.

However, as for having sound playing out of the soundbar AND Onkyo at the same time, I'm not sure if that is possible with devices plugged into the Onkyo. I was thinking that would only be possible with devices plugged direct into the TV, or the TV's built in apps. That way, you would use HDMI Arc or optical out to send the sound to the Onkyo, whilst keeping the TV speakers (soundbar) turned on.

I don't think using them at the same time would sound great though, I would expect there to be a difference in timing of the sounds coming out of the soundbar vs the Onkyo (which would probably be adjustable on the Onkyo come to think about it, as you can adjust the timing forward or backwards), and also neither system is 'tuned' for the presence of the other system, so you may not get ideal results from mixing them, acoustically.
 

mbilejo

Active Member
Sorry, forgot to add - re: using the soundbar as centre channel, there is no 'system configurable' way to set this up officially. But I guess you could just disconnect the Onkyo centre speaker, and then see how it sounds when both the soundbar and the Onkyo system are running together.
 

Efour

Member
Update from me...
Something didn't work I could turn on the TV with Google home but not off. At the same time using my mobile I could turn on and off with Alexa. It's bloody bizarre.
I'm very close to giving up on this.
I did a full factory reset and just installed the apps I use and digital channels.

The default power saving mode is "off" tho I might change this to minimal, as I think something is wrong with those very limited settings.
I would really appreciate a more detailed power settings options menu on a premium model like this.
Anyway I'm thinking minimal power savings would include keeping Chromecast awake at all times.
I'm literally not going to touch anything else.
Keeping everything at default. Though I'm going crazy with Google saying "sixty five oled nine hundred and thirty five and twelve, something like that :p

I'll report back if something happens maybe a future firmware. I do wonder if it's just me having this bs.
 

vaderag

Member
Looks like I'm getting this as a replacement for a faulty 903, so pretty excited about that!

Just wondering - the stand looks like it sticks out a bit at the back - is it still possible to wall mount?
Also, does the soundbar come off at all? Since getting the original I actually don't use the soundbar as have a 5.1.2 setup now and couldn't find a way to integrate those speakers...
 

mbilejo

Active Member
Looks like I'm getting this as a replacement for a faulty 903, so pretty excited about that!

Just wondering - the stand looks like it sticks out a bit at the back - is it still possible to wall mount?
Also, does the soundbar come off at all? Since getting the original I actually don't use the soundbar as have a 5.1.2 setup now and couldn't find a way to integrate those speakers...

Short answers - yes to wall mounting and yes to not connecting the soundbar - Mine is wall mounted with no soundbar, I use an Onkyo receiver for sound.
 

Andrew Preview

Standard Member
What HiFi? review of the 65” published today. Not sure if we’re allowed to include links but you can Google it easily enough. They criticise the motion processing and, unusually, the sound. They judge the sound by comparison with separate sound bars rather than by comparison with the built-in sound of equivalent sets. Even on that basis, other reviewers have rated the B&W speaker bar very highly.
 

Leo Reed

Novice Member
Hello! I found some interesting information on comparing two TVs: Philips 55OLED935/12 vs Philips 55OLED 934/12. If you are interested, read here.
 

laser

Active Member
Has anyone updated their 935 to the latest firmware released on 25/01/2021.
Version: 101.001.208.001

If so, has it fixed any long term outstanding bugs e.g. Disney+, ARC issues, ITV hub app screen saver 2 minute issue, sub woofer issue.
 

JonStatt

Well-known Member
What HiFi? review of the 65” published today. Not sure if we’re allowed to include links but you can Google it easily enough. They criticise the motion processing and, unusually, the sound. They judge the sound by comparison with separate sound bars rather than by comparison with the built-in sound of equivalent sets. Even on that basis, other reviewers have rated the B&W speaker bar very highly.

I have the best soundbar ever created, the Yamaha YSP-5600 but it is very very big. The Philips TV can't match the throw of it but it is very very detailed and punchy and for a bundled TV unit, it throws well above its weight. Plus arguably for Atmos height it does a better job. What HiFi messed up in my view and just goes to show you need to sample several reviews incase a reviewer is simply having a bad day!
 

AdrenalineRush

Novice Member
Have run in a problem in my relatively new 55OLED935. When I turn on the TV (plug into power socket) , it briefly shows Philips Logo (startup screen) and then goes blank , sometimes while briefly showing a horizontal single line in the middle of the screen.

The white power led then starts blinking/flickring in a constant loop without anything being displayed on screen. Remote does not work at this stage.

Have tried the basic troubleshooting as mentioned on Philips support pages to remove the power cable wait for while and try again. Have changed power cables and plugging in various sockets for 220V. Nothing seems to help here.

Do i have any chance or guidance for salvaging it myself at this point before calling for customer care. Reaching out to them and/or sending it back would not be an easy task for me.

Thanks for any possible ideas.
 

JonStatt

Well-known Member
Has anyone updated their 935 to the latest firmware released on 25/01/2021.
Version: 101.001.208.001

If so, has it fixed any long term outstanding bugs e.g. Disney+, ARC issues, ITV hub app screen saver 2 minute issue, sub woofer issue.
The Disney issue is now believed to be a Disney problem as other vendors are affected
Have run in a problem in my relatively new 55OLED935. When I turn on the TV (plug into power socket) , it briefly shows Philips Logo (startup screen) and then goes blank , sometimes while briefly showing a horizontal single line in the middle of the screen.

The white power led then starts blinking/flickring in a constant loop without anything being displayed on screen. Remote does not work at this stage.

Have tried the basic troubleshooting as mentioned on Philips support pages to remove the power cable wait for while and try again. Have changed power cables and plugging in various sockets for 220V. Nothing seems to help here.

Do i have any chance or guidance for salvaging it myself at this point before calling for customer care. Reaching out to them and/or sending it back would not be an easy task for me.

Thanks for any possible ideas.

This didn't follow a reinstall or firmware update did it. It will do this if the operating system becomes corrupted. What happens if you hold the button on the back of the TV as you plug it in?
 

AdrenalineRush

Novice Member
This didn't follow a reinstall or firmware update did it. It will do this if the operating system becomes corrupted. What happens if you hold the button on the back of the TV as you plug it in?

Surely not, didnt do any firmware reinstall. The behaviour remains the same if I press the back button while plugging it in, or turning on from an switch off state.

Kinda perplexing, it was hardly unboxed and plugged in days ago.
 

Couldbeslimmer

Standard Member
Have run in a problem in my relatively new 55OLED935. When I turn on the TV (plug into power socket) , it briefly shows Philips Logo (startup screen) and then goes blank , sometimes while briefly showing a horizontal single line in the middle of the screen.

The white power led then starts blinking/flickring in a constant loop without anything being displayed on screen. Remote does not work at this stage.

Have tried the basic troubleshooting as mentioned on Philips support pages to remove the power cable wait for while and try again. Have changed power cables and plugging in various sockets for 220V. Nothing seems to help here.

Do i have any chance or guidance for salvaging it myself at this point before calling for customer care. Reaching out to them and/or sending it back would not be an easy task for me.

Thanks for any possible ideas.
I had something similar. TV wouldn't turn off via remote or Alexa, white led was blinking to say it was receiving the signal, but nothing happened on the set. Turned it off at the wall, tried to turn it back on and nothing. Power cable is fine as I tried it on my Pioneer Blu Ray. Reported it to Philips and I'm due an engineer visit on Tuesday, this is almost 4 weeks after reporting it as they were waiting for replacement parts and 4 weeks with no £1700 TV that was less than 4 weeks old.

I'll update on Tuesday after the engineer has been to let you know what the problem was. Hopefully you don't have to go the same route.
 

AdrenalineRush

Novice Member
I had something similar. TV wouldn't turn off via remote or Alexa, white led was blinking to say it was receiving the signal, but nothing happened on the set. Turned it off at the wall, tried to turn it back on and nothing. Power cable is fine as I tried it on my Pioneer Blu Ray. Reported it to Philips and I'm due an engineer visit on Tuesday, this is almost 4 weeks after reporting it as they were waiting for replacement parts and 4 weeks with no £1700 TV that was less than 4 weeks old.

I'll update on Tuesday after the engineer has been to let you know what the problem was. Hopefully you don't have to go the same route.

Sounds good, please share your troubleshooting findings here with us.

To explain the issue and behavior I am facing , you can look at the below and maybe get a suggestion from the engineer due to visit about a possible way forward. Does it needs to be sent back in warranty (hardly a month old it is) for replacement / repair.

55OLED935/12 No Screen Blinking LED Problem

Thanks.
 

vaderag

Member
Hope you get it sorted!
A little worrying as I'm getting this as a warranty replacement and will only have 6mo warranty on it.... 😳
 

The latest video from AVForums

Podcast: LG C1 OLED First Thoughts + JBL Synthesis SDR-35 Review, TV Show & Disc Reviews & more
Subscribe to our YouTube channel

Latest News

AVForums Podcast: 12th May 2021
  • By Phil Hinton
  • Published
Bluesound unveils new generation of Node and Powernode audio players
  • By Andy Bassett
  • Published
Naim launches Uniti Atom Headphone Edition
  • By Andy Bassett
  • Published
Sennheiser announces flagship IE 900 earphones
  • By Andy Bassett
  • Published
Sony launches larger screen sizes for latest Bravia XR TVs
  • By Andy Bassett
  • Published

Full fat HDMI teeshirts

Support AVForums with Patreon

Top Bottom