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Philips 963sa remote control problem fix

Discussion in 'Blu-ray & DVD Players & Recorders' started by fraggle, Mar 10, 2003.

  1. fraggle

    fraggle
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    Hi all,

    For those of you who have this DVD player you'll know that the sensitivity of the remote control is, to put it mildly, poor.

    And so a friend of mine discovered, and had a play to see if he could improve things. This is what he found :-

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    The IR receiver is mounted on the front control/display PCB which is attached to the front panel.

    There is an approx 1cm gap between the mirrored transparent plastic front and the IR sensor. Also the back of the mirrored transparent plastic is blacked out apart form a round hole in front of the IR sensor.

    These two together are going to make it difficult for any IR signal to get to the sensor unless its coming from directly in front of the player, not very good.

    The good news is that this sensor is mounted on three wires which have enough slack in them and are stiff enough to remove the sensor from its little plastic clip its mounted in and move it forward 0.5cm.

    Having done this sensitivity is *greatly* improved, I'm not now getting peed off all the time as the player sits there doing nothing!

    Details :-

    Power on the player and eject the drawer - LEAVE IT OPEN.

    Disconnect the player from everything.

    Remove top (2 screws either side, 3 screws at back)

    Remove gray cable running from front to back of player connecting the front PCB to the rear PCB. It unplugs from the rear PCB.

    Remove the front of the DVD tray, just pull the bottom of the silver part of the front of the drawer towards you slightly (away from the player) and the silver part can then slide upwards and off.

    Using a thin small screwdriver slowly work the front panel off, its held on by two large clips underneath, one large clip on either side and two small clips on the top. Because of the secondary panel screwed on the bottom the bottom clips will be stiff to pull out. (you can remove the bottom panel but this involves removing the PSU and its mounting bracket, and all 4 feet). If the bottom clips are really tight remove the front two feet, this should loosen up the secondary plate on the bottom of the player giving you enough slack to remove the front panel.

    Once you have the front panel off undo all the screws holding both PCBs on (two on the on/off PCB and about 9 on the main front PCB). This will then lift straight out.

    To the right of the fluorescent display you'll see the IR sensor mounted on a little plastic holder, with three wires coming from it sideways then bending through 90 degrees and going to the PCB.

    ==^==--. <- sensor
    |clip| |
    |clip| | <- wires
    ------------------ <-- PCB
    (aaargh, I hate propertional fonts!)

    Using small screwdriver lift the sensor out from its clip and using the excess length in its three connecting pins (due to the 90 degree bend in them), straighten the existing bends in the pins and bend them right where they go into the sensor. Doing this you can move the sensor about 0.5cm closer to the "hole".

    ==^==. <- sensor
    space|
    |clip|| <- re-bent wires
    |clip| |
    ------------------ <-- PCB


    I also got a small piece of stick-it note and used this to stop any stray light from the fluorescent display falling on the IR sensor.

    Reassemble the player (opposite of dismantling) and before you put the lid on plug it in and test it - remember there are LIVE MAINS VOLTAGE COMPONENTS on the PSU circuit board - do not touch, lick, sit on or come into contact with anything inside the player when testing it! :)

    I found the silver draw front plastic bit a little flddly to get back on, I needed to hold it at the top so it didn't flex, as the bottom did flex as the clips pushed into place, otherwise there are three tiny lugs on the back top which clip over the black plastic top of the drawer, which missed if I didn't hold it.

    No problems other than that.

    When I get bored again I'm going to completely remove the IR sensor, extend its wires and remount it so I can get it tight against the window, this should improve it vastly again.

    I also noticed that the whole of the fluorescent is covered in a semi transparent red film - all I can think of is to dim down the display a bit. I think I'll trim off some of this and cover the standby LED in a few layers of this to make it dimmer, its bleedin bright I find! I'm also wondering how bright the display would be if I removed this red film altogether...
     
  2. gringottsdirect

    gringottsdirect
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    ....makes a decent nite-lite though planes passing overhead may try to land on it if my curtains are open :rolleyes:
    Excellent post about the sensor :clap:
     
  3. potato

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    fraggle,

    would it be possible to post some pictures? Because I find easier when I can actually see it :D

    Thank you very much by the way for this great work.
     
  4. fraggle

    fraggle
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    Well I would if there was any more interest for them.

    There's loads of people out there with this DVD player, and a large %age of them complaining about the crap remote, so I find out how to improve it and hardly anyone seems to want to know.

    Oh well :(
     
  5. gringottsdirect

    gringottsdirect
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    135 views so far :cool:
     
  6. a_b

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    Fraggle,

    Thumbs up - as gringottsdirect pointed out, there is definitely high interest in your cure for Philips remote. Some people like me may be reserved trying since it will probably invalidate warranty, so I will save you excellent instructions and use them when the warranty runs out ... or sooner if desperation will grow high.

    Thanks!
     
  7. fraggle

    fraggle
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    Heh, ok, I'll pull it to bits again tomorrow and extend the wires so I can get the sensor tight against the plastic window.

    And take pictures of it before and after, what to remote to dismantle, etc, etc.

    Its actually quite simple to do, and there's no warranty stickers anywhere.

    I may offer to do it to people 963s for a few squid (no warranty, etc, and people pay postage to me and back). Any interest if I were to do this? Yes it would technically invalidate your phlilps warranty.
     
  8. widescreen

    widescreen
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    Fraggle,
    Great stuff! I tried this mod and it has fixed the IR Remote receiver problems for me. Now I can point at the 963 with the remote at any angle and it works just like it should have in the first place. :D

    I did the mod as you said but desoldered (quite easy to do) the receiver to straighten the wires, now the receiver is right up against the window.

    I found removing the faceplate easier than you suggested it would be. I also put some tape on the standby light to remove that annoying bright light.

    All we need now is for Philips to fix the lip synch issues and the MP3 problems and I'd say this is the best ever DVD player.
     
  9. fraggle

    fraggle
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    Excellent widescreen, always nice to see someone else enjoying properly working gear :) Glad it was easier than I made it sound!

    I must admit I completely forgot about the standy light when I had mine in bits. I'm going to stick some of the excess red tape over it.

    MP3 problems? What are they then? And I haven't noticed any lip synch problems watching it on my TV or LCD projector. Do you use a plasma? People using plasmas seem to experience lip synch with just about every PS player out there. Kind of glad I didn't succumb to temptation at Richer Sounds and buy one of their £2k "cheap" ones!
     
  10. widescreen

    widescreen
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    The MP3 problems are when playing non-44.1khz files, I've got loads, they play at the wrong speed. Also I've burn't CDRs with MP3s on them and many skip a lot. I'm going to try some different media, but my other two MP3 players don't have problems playing these disks.

    The lip synch issues I've noticed are only on Component output to my projector with PAL progressive. They vary quite a lot, most times I don't notice it but other times it is quite severe, i.e. .5 seconds. Overall it doesn't bother me too much.

    Both these problems I'm sure could be fixed in the firmware.
     

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