Philips 2021 OLED Owners' Thread (706, 806&856, 956)

Paul97

Active Member
Thanks for the reply HUMAX and the advice. I mostly watch TV and movies via my shield set up and don't play games.
When I was searching for information on this model, I was certain that I found a website quoting in the UK for £3699 (should have bookmarked it), for the life of me I can not find it now.
My 75pml9506 has bad local dimming issues and wondered if the 806 has any real problems?
 

humax

Active Member
My 75pml9506 has bad local dimming issues and wondered if the 806 has any real problems?
Well, burn-in/image retention and relatively low brightness are the only real problems of an oled picture-wise. Otherwise, android being a bit buggy and eARC being temperamental are the basic flaws reported by the 806 users. The only real problem is Philips being more expensive than other oleds, so the true question remains. Can you easily afford it right now? I would like to buy this model too, but all I can easily afford right now is the 75pus8506. Sometimes, questions just answer themselves.
 

PingThing

Standard Member
Well, burn-in/image retention and relatively low brightness are the only real problems of an oled picture-wise. Otherwise, android being a bit buggy and eARC being temperamental are the basic flaws reported by the 806 users. The only real problem is Philips being more expensive than other oleds, so the true question remains. Can you easily afford it right now? I would like to buy this model too, but all I can easily afford right now is the 75pus8506. Sometimes, questions just answer themselves.
Don't forget the deal clincher...Ambilight.
Philips have got me for life now unfortunately.
 

tCC0

Active Member
Well, burn-in/image retention and relatively low brightness are the only real problems of an oled picture-wise. Otherwise, android being a bit buggy and eARC being temperamental are the basic flaws reported by the 806 users. The only real problem is Philips being more expensive than other oleds, so the true question remains. Can you easily afford it right now? I would like to buy this model too, but all I can easily afford right now is the 75pus8506. Sometimes, questions just answer themselves.
Whats the "real problem" with the relatively low brightnes ? I don't like those LCD light canons in my room, this television is more than bright enough for me
 

Paul97

Active Member
Thanks guys :smashin:, I can afford it now (just) but obviously would like the best price possible, the burn-in/image retention shouldn't be a problem for us as we only watch at the most 4-5 hours most days.
Agree once you have experienced Ambilight your hooked ☺️
 

tCC0

Active Member
Thanks guys :smashin:, I can afford it now (just) but obviously would like the best price possible, the burn-in/image retention shouldn't be a problem for us as we only watch at the most 4-5 hours most days.
Agree once you have experienced Ambilight your hooked ☺️
The burn-in option on this television (esp set to high) is one of the best I've seen :)
 

trm201

Standard Member
Yes, everything works on the pc only when I put my pc in standby the television freezes and I need to reinsert the power cable, so I disconnect the device (win+p) before I s3 standby.

VRR is enabling g-sync and set the hdmi port to auto-game

No flickering like I had before with my Xbox Series X (that shizzle disappeared one day)

I purchased the same cable as you, and things to be a bit better now, the black flickering has stopped and the TV can hold 120FPS.

I have Gysnc enabled, HDR on, 120FPS set in the graphics options - but the TV still only says "HDR Source" in the bottom right popup ( and not "game variable" like it sometimes does ). When I click info the TV confirms the source is at 120HZ, but I'm not sure if this means VRR is actually enabled ?

What's also strange is - if I choose 60HZ in Windows, then the image on the TV is really really crisp - and if I change it to 120Hz then it loses the crispness on the text and the colours do seem more washed out. Can you try this on your setup @tCC0 ? It should be really obvious when you change - to me, on 120HZ it looks like a badly compressed JPEG. When I check the Display Info on the TV for both 60Hz and 120Hz - the information other than the Hz is all the same - so no different colour profile etc.
 

tCC0

Active Member
I have it running in 120Hz and it's sharp here, please try with HDR disabled in Windows or try another picture profile on your television ?

Enable the optimized + auto-game mode in hdmi settings for VRR btw
 

tCC0

Active Member
And I would like to know if your television freezes as well when you put your computer in standby or wake it from standby (only works a couple of times when I booted the tv, but not when it's running for a couple of hours or a day).
 

trm201

Standard Member
And I would like to know if your television freezes as well when you put your computer in standby or wake it from standby (only works a couple of times when I booted the tv, but not when it's running for a couple of hours or a day).
Not so far, I’ll do some more testing - but changing some settings in windows, such as changing the refresh rate to 25hz sometimes kills the entire TV and it needs hard rebooting!
 

tCC0

Active Member
Not so far, I’ll do some more testing - but changing some settings in windows, such as changing the refresh rate to 25hz sometimes kills the entire TV and it needs hard rebooting!
What 3080 you have btw, I'm using a asus tuf non-oc, the v1
 

humax

Active Member
Whats the "real problem" with the relatively low brightnes ? I don't like those LCD light canons in my room, this television is more than bright enough for me
Bare in mind the member asking the question already has a 75pml9506 mini-led, a light cannon like you said, so brightness will definitely be a stepdown with the oled. Bare also in mind that the best hdr material is mastered at 4000 nits right now and will be mastered at 10000 nits in the future. In short, hdr material needs all the brightness it can get along with good black levels, hence all the buzz with the mini led models. The 9636 mini-led is almost twice as bright as the 77" 806 oled.
 

tCC0

Active Member
Bare in mind the member asking the question already has a 75pml9506 mini-led, a light cannon like you said, so brightness will definitely be a stepdown with the oled. Bare also in mind that the best hdr material is mastered at 4000 nits right now and will be mastered at 10000 nits in the future. In short, hdr material needs all the brightness it can get along with good black levels, hence all the buzz with the mini led models. The 9636 mini-led is almost twice as bright as the 77" 806 oled.
Don't assume everyone likes bright HDR.

I think it really sucks sometimes and people don't use it the way it should. Especially during evenings when I watch a YouTube video being recorded in HDR, omg, it looks like sh*t, waaaaaaaaay to bright on my Sony OLED.


SDR for the win
 

humax

Active Member
Then don't talk about it being a "real problem" because it's not :)
It is not a problem per se. However, HDR brings new things to light, when done right and you do need a really bright tv to make use of it. Check out the following comparison video between a 100 nit and a 4000nit version of the same film. It is quite revealing.

 

tCC0

Active Member
I know what HDR is and I said that most people don't know how to use HDR the correct way.

It's discusting to see things like normal product reviews in waaaaay too bright HDR on YouTube for example.
 

humax

Active Member
I know what HDR is and I said that most people don't know how to use HDR the correct way.

It's discusting to see things like normal product reviews in waaaaay too bright HDR on YouTube for example.
This is just bad hdr mastering and I agree it looks atrocious. However, the fact remains you really need high brightness and very deep black levels for proper hdr rendering. It is just the nature of the beast. OLED does the latter perfectly, but does lack in the former. In turn, the new mini-leds are twice as bright and have very good blacks, but it is a dynamic contrast, which can create problems with image quality. OLED is still the proper way to reproduce an image right now.
 

trm201

Standard Member
What 3080 you have btw, I'm using a asus tuf non-oc, the v1
I think it’s MSI.

Have you managed to get Windows 11/10 to output surround sound ? If so, how are you doing it?

I’m trying to use my denon av receiver via arc, via the TV - but I can’t get anything more than stereo as the TV tells Windows it can only support 2 channels ( even with pass through enabled on the TV ). This means games with PCM 5.1 audio ( which is most games ) only play in stereo- Dolby and dts do work correctly, but almost no games support it.

It all works fine using hdmi direct to the denon, but then no VRR and capped to 60 FPS!

I tried using the onboard optical port on my motherboard, but that has the same 2 channel limitations.
 

menarestillgood

Standard Member
Ah cool, got a new bug: when connected to a computer (asus tuf rtx 3080 through hdmi 2.1 cable, 4k/120/vrr/hdr) the television regularly freezes or reboots when I put my computer to standby or resume from standby, even when the television is on the home screen or using a built-in app.

Workaround is disabling the television as second monitor (win+p, pc screen only) before I do enter standby on my pc
I have almost the exact opposite problem, albeit on an older 854 model and with a GTX1060. My pc crashes and restarts when I turn the tv on. I've tried different HMDI ports, cables, and changing the power settings on the pc, but nothing helps. It seems like some kind of handshake problem between the tv and the pc/videocard.
 

Nuwanda90

Novice Member
Hello all,
Unfortunately, the LAN port on the OLED806 seems to be limited to 100 Mbps. This is of course annoying when the home connection offers a multiple of that. Have you tried to work around this limitation by using a USB-LAN adapter? Can you recommend a specific model in terms of compatibility?
 

tCC0

Active Member
I have almost the exact opposite problem, albeit on an older 854 model and with a GTX1060. My pc crashes and restarts when I turn the tv on. I've tried different HMDI ports, cables, and changing the power settings on the pc, but nothing helps. It seems like some kind of handshake problem between the tv and the pc/videocard.
Yeah looks like some handshake problem indeed :(
 

tCC0

Active Member
I have almost the exact opposite problem, albeit on an older 854 model and with a GTX1060. My pc crashes and restarts when I turn the tv on. I've tried different HMDI ports, cables, and changing the power settings on the pc, but nothing helps. It seems like some kind of handshake problem between the tv and the pc/videocard.
I noticed the television said G-Sync instead of VRR this morning, only displayed that once, the problems remain.

Maybe I'll move my complete setup to test it with a shorter hdmi 2.1 cable, for example the one that came with my Xbox Series X, using a 5m now
 

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