PC Ryzen 7 Monsterbuild - Opinions wanted.

Is this PC Build overkill even with future-proofing in mind?

  • Maybe, not sure.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    5

Alpha Gametauri

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I had a old build list with a 9590. Since i'm saving money and new, better parts came out, here is my Ryzen list...

CPU- Ryzen 7 1700 (OC to 3.9Ghz) $269.99

MB- MSI X370 XPower Gaming Titanium $259.39

CPU Cooler- Arctic Liquid Freezer 360 $119.48

RAM- G.Skill Trident Z 64GB (4x16) DDR4-3200 $716.98

Storage- Samsung 960 Evo 1TB M.2-2280 SSD $419.99 + WD Velociraptor 1TB 10,000rpm $289.00x3

GPU- EVGA GeForce Gtx 1080ti K|NGP|N Edition ($approximately 1000x2 dual-screen)

Case- be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 (black+silver) $219.90

PSU: Seasonic PRIME Titanium 80+ 1000W $269.99

DISC: Asus Blu-Ray/DVD $109.88 (only because i still have disc based games)

WIFI: TP-Link Archer T9E Pci-e $69.99

OS: Windows 10 Pro 64bit $30.00 (key code site)

Monitors: Asus PG27UQ 4k GSync 144hz $price unknown x2

I wanted a mega strong build right off the bat. My idea with getting the best parts immediately is to eliminate upgrading when games and other software become more demanding, aka future proofing. If i was just going to do gaming, i would've went with Intel, but i plan to do high end vid editing for YT and twitch streaming. I went with the 1800X and 64GB of ram, that other then the vid stuff, i would be gaming at MAX settings, with Visual mods and other mods, not sure how RAM hungry that'll make it.

If you have any suggestions, leave them here. If you have questions, i'll answer them as best as i can. I will not be offended by constructive criticism, so don't worry about hurting my feelings and making me cry myself to sleep, XD.

I look forward to what ya'll have to say.
 
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Here is my opinion.



If you got the cash and can spare it why not.

Wish I had 1/4 of what you are about to spend.

Edit
Under no circumstances go wifi, whatever it takes get it hard wired into your PC.
 
You win the Internet for that vid response, XD. I still have alot of saving to do, ALOT. Some of these parts are SO new, they aren't available yet. If i had won the mega millions, i'd give you money for a mega build.

Any reason to hard wire over wifi?

I like that sarcasm quote at the bottom, i'll adopt it.
 
Too many things can go wrong such as interference, dropouts not to mention any other devices crowding the signal and most importantly speed / latency.

If you encounter any hiccups its a lot easier to sort out when you don't have to deal with the added wifi headache.

If you are going to be spending what I can imagine is the better part of 10 grand you are going to want the best and that is wired.

My build would come to ~£1500-£1800 ($2000-$2500) depending on a couple of things so basically around the same as your two GPU's lol

i7 7700k
1080 GTX
16GB Trident DDR4 3200mhz
MSI or Gigabyte Motherboard.

That is the main components all thats left is just the bits and bobs like case, psu and ssd.

PS
Regarding the above video, if you have not seen them the Tremors films are great.

First one 5/5
Second 4/5
Third 3.5/5
Fourth 4/5 (Went back to the renaming of the town era)
Fifth 3/5
 
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I checked pricing, while the price on the monitors isn't exact, and i choose a keyboard and mouse, i'll be JUST shy of $8-grand.

That WIFI issue, damn that sounds serious, hardwire it is then. That Intel build looks pretty damn nice. I'd go with MSI Titanium, yes it's the most expensive, but it's well worth it. Yeah, the Kingpins are really damn expensive, but EVGA and select reviewers say it will be the most powerful GPU ever made. There are GPU's that put out more then 11gb's, but they cost as much as a used car, i saw a 14gb for $6800.
 
I plan on overclocking the 1800x to 4-4.1ghz, will the 1700 still compare?

When you say better ram, can you explain what you mean by that? Like a different brand or speed?
 
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You realise you can run both screens (and more) off a single GPU?

Don't want to stress the cards too much since they're 4k GSync monitors. Plus, i may upgrade to a 3-4 screen set up later the line if i desire.
 
I would go with Threadripper if money was no issue.
 
CPU - Ryzen 7 1800X (OC to 4+Ghz) $429.99
One chap said this earlier, but the 1700 will provide nearly 1800X levels of performance. He wasn't wrong. They're all the same CPU and the 1800X is essentially just a higher-binned version of the Ryzen 7 chip (more efficient at higher clock-speeds; require less Voltage to achieve the same result).

You'd be paying over the odds for the same thing and don't take my word for it:
Ryzen 7 1700 and 1700X review: better than the 1800X?

We benched all of them, and found results entirely within margin of error - so effectively, with a reasonable overclock in place, there is nothing to separate a cheap Ryzen 7 1700 with the top-of-the-line 1800X running at the same 4.0GHz all-core frequency.

If you were to up the ante, then that would be Threadripper and i7-Extreme territory.
MB - MSI X370 XPower Gaming Titanium $259.39
Again, paying over the odds for a product that doesn't give that much more than it's relative competition. Look at the AsRock boards - They offer more for a similar price.​

CPU HSF - Arctic Liquid Freezer 360 $119.48
AC were my first foray into aftermarket cooling; way back when I even cooled my GPU with them. I still have 6 of their fans installed in my case at home and my CPU is cooled by one of their Freezer series... *Takes off rose tinted glasses*

However, there are no reviews or benchmarks regarding this cooler. I will assume it will kick-ass, regardless. The 240 version got a decent review on [H]OCP: [H]ardOCP: Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer 240 AIO CPU Cooler Review

It provides decent bang-for-buck and outperforms other class-leaders at the 240mm size.

There is still the option of high-efficiency air-cooling and BeQuiet! do their own DARK ROCK PRO 3 [DRP3] HSF (to go with your case), which is slightly more effective (and better looking) than the Noctua DH-15 but is louder.

Plus, those massive air-coolers look beastly - but that's just my opinion.​

RAM - G.Skill Trident Z 64GB (4x16) DDR4-3200 $716.98
Unless you are doing some SERIOUS movie [not even video] and/or photo editing at 4K and above, then this is a complete waste of your cash.

Outwith video editing, you don't even have a dual-socket motherboard and you haven't mentioned the use of running multiple VMs at home - such as web, mail or content servers.

I'd save your dollahs and just buy 16GB, that should see you through.

If it doesn't, sue me.
Storage - Samsung 960 Evo 1TB M.2-2280 SSD $419.99 + Seagate Barracuda Pro 8TB 7200rpm $279.00
Only one mechanical HDD is asking for trouble. I recently had an external-spinner die on me and I lost a lot of work-material [and pr0n] - It was my own fault for not keeping everything backed up on my rig at home.

If I were you, I'd invest in a couple of mechanical hard-drives and investigate the possibility of running RAID6 - Which will be defunct in the near future... Thanks to high-density mechanical storage.​

GPU - EVGA GeForce Gtx 1080ti K|NGP|N Edition ($approximately 1000x2 dual-screen)

Unless you want to meet this Kingpin fellow and brown nose his ringpiece (I'm sure he's a nice bloke, but not that nice), I'd just opt for regular, every-day, garden variety GTX 1080 Ti cards.

You can choose ones with aftermarket coolers and/or buy Founders Edition cards and fit your own aftermarket air or closed-loop blocks. Even the Founders Edition are hailed as being great for hardware modding and overclocking, because it's slightly more robust than the Titan Xp. As long as the PCB has enough high-quality voltage regulators, you should be fine with serious OC'ing.

If you were buying these Kingpin cards, I'd wildly assume you were going to flash the firmware and short out the VRM resistors to unlock the TDP and vCore. Doing so would allow you to ramp the cores up to a much higher level. That's the only reason I could imagine you'd need all of the 'added extras'. They aren't necessary to go outwith the usual boundaries of NVIDIA's power limits, but they will help let you know if your card is about to melt, especially if you're not using the thermodynamic wonders of liquid nitrogen [or even water].

As an aside - All NVIDIA partner cards need to be approved by NVIDIA, therefore they all need to adhere to NVIDIA's stringent rules - which means it must meet the same specification for Power Consumption. NVIDIA's 1080 Ti is ultimately held back by its' strict power limitations. You'll notice that when stretching the card to 120% power consumption on the Wattage 'slider', it doesn't even use that extra 20%; you're probably closer to 10-15%.

Therefore, in conclusion - All NVIDIA cards can reach an overclock of ~2000MHz. It's the getting there that's slightly different for each card [again, they are binning their processors into tiers and extorting you for the pleasure].

Case - be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 (black+silver) $219.90
Your case is an extension of your personality. It appears to be as black and sleek as your soul, with a hint of hope in the form of the silver lining. Nice.
PSU: Seasonic PRIME Titanium 80+ 1000W $269.99
Seasonic are the best around - I have one too. What's the difference between PRIME and.. Not-PRIME? Digital / analog?
Disc: Asus Blu-Ray/DVD $109.88 (only because i still have disc based games)
You'll use this once, then you'll cry gently because it ruins the look of your case. I'd buy an external one and keep it in a drawer for rainy days.
WiFi - TP-Link Archer T9E Pci-e $69.99
Everybody needs the Internet. WiFi is convenient. Don't listen to the idiots who demand you use Ethernet - That is unless you're shunting round hundreds of GigaBytes of data every day.
OS: Windows 10 Pro 64bit $30.00 (key code site)
Yarrrr me matey.
Monitors - Asus PG27UQ 4k GSync 144hz $price unknown x2
A nifty alternative to this is one of those 49" fapalicious, curved 21:9 PC Master Race monitors:
Samsung C49HG90 49" 3840x1080 VA FREESYNC 144Hz Gaming Quantum DOT HDR Widescreen Curved Monitor

Or for £300 less, you can get a 'regular' 34" model:
Acer Predator X34A 34" 3440x1440 IPS G-SYNC WideScreen Super-Wide ZeroFrame Curved LED Monitor
 
Last edited:
CPU - Ryzen 7 1800X (OC to 4+Ghz) $429.99
One chap said this earlier, but the 1700 will provide nearly 1800X levels of performance. He wasn't wrong. They're all the same CPU and the 1800X is essentially just a higher-binned version of the Ryzen 7 chip (more efficient at higher clock-speeds; require less Voltage to achieve the same result).

You'd be paying over the odds for the same thing and don't take my word for it:
Ryzen 7 1700 and 1700X review: better than the 1800X?



If you were to up the ante, then that would be Threadripper and i7-Extreme territory.
MB - MSI X370 XPower Gaming Titanium $259.39
Again, paying over the odds for a product that doesn't give that much more than it's relative competition. Look at the AsRock boards - They offer more for a similar price.​

CPU HSF - Arctic Liquid Freezer 360 $119.48
AC were my first foray into aftermarket cooling; way back when I even cooled my GPU with them. I still have 6 of their fans installed in my case at home and my CPU is cooled by one of their Freezer series... *Takes off rose tinted glasses*

However, there are no reviews or benchmarks regarding this cooler. I will assume it will kick-ass, regardless. The 240 version got a decent review on [H]OCP: [H]ardOCP: Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer 240 AIO CPU Cooler Review

It provides decent bang-for-buck and outperforms other class-leaders at the 240mm size.

There is still the option of high-efficiency air-cooling and BeQuiet! do their own DARK ROCK PRO 3 [DRP3] HSF (to go with your case), which is slightly more effective (and better looking) than the Noctua DH-15 but is louder.

Plus, those massive air-coolers look beastly - but that's just my opinion.​

RAM - G.Skill Trident Z 64GB (4x16) DDR4-3200 $716.98
Unless you are doing some SERIOUS movie [not even video] and/or photo editing at 4K and above, then this is a complete waste of your cash.

Outwith video editing, you don't even have a dual-socket motherboard and you haven't mentioned the use of running multiple VMs at home - such as web, mail or content servers.

I'd save your dollahs and just buy 16GB, that should see you through.

If it doesn't, sue me.
Storage - Samsung 960 Evo 1TB M.2-2280 SSD $419.99 + Seagate Barracuda Pro 8TB 7200rpm $279.00
Only one mechanical HDD is asking for trouble. I recently had an external-spinner die on me and I lost a lot of work-material [and pr0n] - It was my own fault for not keeping everything backed up on my rig at home.

If I were you, I'd invest in a couple of mechanical hard-drives and investigate the possibility of running RAID6 - Which will be defunct in the near future... Thanks to high-density mechanical storage.​

GPU - EVGA GeForce Gtx 1080ti K|NGP|N Edition ($approximately 1000x2 dual-screen)

Unless you want to meet this Kingpin fellow and brown nose his ringpiece (I'm sure he's a nice bloke, but not that nice), I'd just opt for regular, every-day, garden variety GTX 1080 Ti cards.

You can choose ones with aftermarket coolers and/or buy Founders Edition cards and fit your own aftermarket air or closed-loop blocks. Even the Founders Edition are hailed as being great for hardware modding and overclocking, because it's slightly more robust than the Titan Xp. As long as the PCB has enough high-quality voltage regulators, you should be fine with serious OC'ing.

If you were buying these Kingpin cards, I'd wildly assume you were going to flash the firmware and short out the VRM resistors to unlock the TDP and vCore. Doing so would allow you to ramp the cores up to a much higher level. That's the only reason I could imagine you'd need all of the 'added extras'. They aren't necessary to go outwith the usual boundaries of NVIDIA's power limits, but they will help let you know if your card is about to melt, especially if you're not using the thermodynamic wonders of liquid nitrogen [or even water].

As an aside - All NVIDIA partner cards need to be approved by NVIDIA, therefore they all need to adhere to NVIDIA's stringent rules - which means it must meet the same specification for Power Consumption. NVIDIA's 1080 Ti is ultimately held back by its' strict power limitations. You'll notice that when stretching the card to 120% power consumption on the Wattage 'slider', it doesn't even use that extra 20%; you're probably closer to 10-15%.

Therefore, in conclusion - All NVIDIA cards can reach an overclock of ~2000MHz. It's the getting there that's slightly different for each card [again, they are binning their processors into tiers and extorting you for the pleasure].

Case - be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 (black+silver) $219.90
Your case is an extension of your personality. It appears to be as black and sleek as your soul, with a hint of hope in the form of the silver lining. Nice.
PSU: Seasonic PRIME Titanium 80+ 1000W $269.99
Seasonic are the best around - I have one too. What's the difference between PRIME and.. Not-PRIME? Digital / analog?
Disc: Asus Blu-Ray/DVD $109.88 (only because i still have disc based games)
You'll use this once, then you'll cry gently because it ruins the look of your case. I'd buy an external one and keep it in a drawer for rainy days.
WiFi - TP-Link Archer T9E Pci-e $69.99
Everybody needs the Internet. WiFi is convenient. Don't listen to the idiots who demand you use Ethernet - That is unless you're shunting round hundreds of GigaBytes of data every day.
OS: Windows 10 Pro 64bit $30.00 (key code site)
Yarrrr me matey.
Monitors - Asus PG27UQ 4k GSync 144hz $price unknown x2
A nifty alternative to this is one of those 49" fapalicious, curved 21:9 PC Master Race monitors:
Samsung C49HG90 49" 3840x1080 VA FREESYNC 144Hz Gaming Quantum DOT HDR Widescreen Curved Monitor

Or for £300 less, you can get a 'regular' 34" model:
Acer Predator X34A 34" 3440x1440 IPS G-SYNC WideScreen Super-Wide ZeroFrame Curved LED Monitor

Lot of sensible advice here.

From what I've read the majority of 1700's max out at 3.9 before the temps go through the roof but you aren't going to miss that 100mhz in any real life scenario.

Saying that I've spent the last 6 months trying to get my 7700k from 4.9 to 5.0 because that odd number was doing my head in :)

Whichever CPU the op gets though the ram, from what I've read is important to Ryzen stability. That thread i posted above they've narrowed it down to a very few types/speeds which is why i'd get the 1700 and sppend the extra money saved getting the right ram.

Hopefully when zen2 comes out you'll see higher clock speeds on the 8 core processors which will be compatable with this generations boards.
 
CPU - Ryzen 7 1800X (OC to 4+Ghz) $429.99
One chap said this earlier, but the 1700 will provide nearly 1800X levels of performance. He wasn't wrong. They're all the same CPU and the 1800X is essentially just a higher-binned version of the Ryzen 7 chip (more efficient at higher clock-speeds; require less Voltage to achieve the same result).

You'd be paying over the odds for the same thing and don't take my word for it:
Ryzen 7 1700 and 1700X review: better than the 1800X?



If you were to up the ante, then that would be Threadripper and i7-Extreme territory.
MB - MSI X370 XPower Gaming Titanium $259.39
Again, paying over the odds for a product that doesn't give that much more than it's relative competition. Look at the AsRock boards - They offer more for a similar price.​

CPU HSF - Arctic Liquid Freezer 360 $119.48
AC were my first foray into aftermarket cooling; way back when I even cooled my GPU with them. I still have 6 of their fans installed in my case at home and my CPU is cooled by one of their Freezer series... *Takes off rose tinted glasses*

However, there are no reviews or benchmarks regarding this cooler. I will assume it will kick-ass, regardless. The 240 version got a decent review on [H]OCP: [H]ardOCP: Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer 240 AIO CPU Cooler Review

It provides decent bang-for-buck and outperforms other class-leaders at the 240mm size.

There is still the option of high-efficiency air-cooling and BeQuiet! do their own DARK ROCK PRO 3 [DRP3] HSF (to go with your case), which is slightly more effective (and better looking) than the Noctua DH-15 but is louder.

Plus, those massive air-coolers look beastly - but that's just my opinion.​

RAM - G.Skill Trident Z 64GB (4x16) DDR4-3200 $716.98
Unless you are doing some SERIOUS movie [not even video] and/or photo editing at 4K and above, then this is a complete waste of your cash.

Outwith video editing, you don't even have a dual-socket motherboard and you haven't mentioned the use of running multiple VMs at home - such as web, mail or content servers.

I'd save your dollahs and just buy 16GB, that should see you through.

If it doesn't, sue me.
Storage - Samsung 960 Evo 1TB M.2-2280 SSD $419.99 + Seagate Barracuda Pro 8TB 7200rpm $279.00
Only one mechanical HDD is asking for trouble. I recently had an external-spinner die on me and I lost a lot of work-material [and pr0n] - It was my own fault for not keeping everything backed up on my rig at home.

If I were you, I'd invest in a couple of mechanical hard-drives and investigate the possibility of running RAID6 - Which will be defunct in the near future... Thanks to high-density mechanical storage.​

GPU - EVGA GeForce Gtx 1080ti K|NGP|N Edition ($approximately 1000x2 dual-screen)

Unless you want to meet this Kingpin fellow and brown nose his ringpiece (I'm sure he's a nice bloke, but not that nice), I'd just opt for regular, every-day, garden variety GTX 1080 Ti cards.

You can choose ones with aftermarket coolers and/or buy Founders Edition cards and fit your own aftermarket air or closed-loop blocks. Even the Founders Edition are hailed as being great for hardware modding and overclocking, because it's slightly more robust than the Titan Xp. As long as the PCB has enough high-quality voltage regulators, you should be fine with serious OC'ing.

If you were buying these Kingpin cards, I'd wildly assume you were going to flash the firmware and short out the VRM resistors to unlock the TDP and vCore. Doing so would allow you to ramp the cores up to a much higher level. That's the only reason I could imagine you'd need all of the 'added extras'. They aren't necessary to go outwith the usual boundaries of NVIDIA's power limits, but they will help let you know if your card is about to melt, especially if you're not using the thermodynamic wonders of liquid nitrogen [or even water].

As an aside - All NVIDIA partner cards need to be approved by NVIDIA, therefore they all need to adhere to NVIDIA's stringent rules - which means it must meet the same specification for Power Consumption. NVIDIA's 1080 Ti is ultimately held back by its' strict power limitations. You'll notice that when stretching the card to 120% power consumption on the Wattage 'slider', it doesn't even use that extra 20%; you're probably closer to 10-15%.

Therefore, in conclusion - All NVIDIA cards can reach an overclock of ~2000MHz. It's the getting there that's slightly different for each card [again, they are binning their processors into tiers and extorting you for the pleasure].

Case - be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 (black+silver) $219.90
Your case is an extension of your personality. It appears to be as black and sleek as your soul, with a hint of hope in the form of the silver lining. Nice.
PSU: Seasonic PRIME Titanium 80+ 1000W $269.99
Seasonic are the best around - I have one too. What's the difference between PRIME and.. Not-PRIME? Digital / analog?
Disc: Asus Blu-Ray/DVD $109.88 (only because i still have disc based games)
You'll use this once, then you'll cry gently because it ruins the look of your case. I'd buy an external one and keep it in a drawer for rainy days.
WiFi - TP-Link Archer T9E Pci-e $69.99
Everybody needs the Internet. WiFi is convenient. Don't listen to the idiots who demand you use Ethernet - That is unless you're shunting round hundreds of GigaBytes of data every day.
OS: Windows 10 Pro 64bit $30.00 (key code site)
Yarrrr me matey.
Monitors - Asus PG27UQ 4k GSync 144hz $price unknown x2
A nifty alternative to this is one of those 49" fapalicious, curved 21:9 PC Master Race monitors:
Samsung C49HG90 49" 3840x1080 VA FREESYNC 144Hz Gaming Quantum DOT HDR Widescreen Curved Monitor

Or for £300 less, you can get a 'regular' 34" model:
Acer Predator X34A 34" 3440x1440 IPS G-SYNC WideScreen Super-Wide ZeroFrame Curved LED Monitor

I'm absolutley in love with the way you talked about my build, some made me laugh, especially the case one. I may need the 64gb ram, cause i will be doing veryhigh end vid editing, and maybe a animated movie series based off Kerbal Space Program (They're ok with it as long as i give them credit.) I wanted a very high end GPU, not sure how graphicaly demanding the games would be with what i will do with them, FTW3 cards are still in my mind.
 
Threadripper is not a gaming CPU. I'd use a 1950X if i wanted a gaming server.

Threadripper plays games at 4K as well as Ryzen. Seriously you need to consider Threadripper if you want to do video editing, etc and play games at the same time.
 
Threadripper plays games at 4K as well as Ryzen. Seriously you need to consider Threadripper if you want to do video editing, etc and play games at the same time.

I think a 1700 overclocked to 3.8-3.9ghz will be better then the extra $700 when i won't be using 16 cores 90% of the time.
 
I think a 1700 overclocked to 3.8-3.9ghz will be better then the extra $700 when i won't be using 16 cores 90% of the time.

If you are that worried about cash why buy 2 kingpin cards then? You want future proof. Threadripper is more future proof than 2 kingpin cards.

Anyway you asked for opinions that was mine. Get Threadripper or Intel Extreme with the spec you listed.

Good luck with the build :)
 
Why 2 kingpin card if i'm not getting a Threadripper? Saving every buck matters while still getting a overkill build. I saw the Ryzen reveal and reviews of it, it will do what i want plus more after overclocking while saving $700. Don't take this the wrong way, i had considered a Threadripper build, i actually have a list, but decided to move back since the Threadripper is more productivity then gaming, which is the major reason for the build.

EDIT: I looked at benchmarks of 1950x vs Ryzen 7 1700x, the TR performed better at 7zip and stuff (Expected) When it comes to gaming, the 1700x performed just as good, and better on some other games.
 
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