Patching holes in dot and dab wall

essgee

Active Member
So this has become a bit of a costly exercise... I finally bought some bookshelves on stands at the end of last year and also thought I might as get the matching centre speaker (q acoustics) because that is what I had always wanted.

I wrongly assumed that my wall would be stud (the house is 5 years old). So when the electrician turned up to put me a new power socket for the TV and drop a few brush plates in
.. It turned out it was dot and dab and actually he's had to make big cut outs instead.

I've still got the pieces he cut out and I have got 2 x 4k HDMI and 1 x Optical cable running through there. I'm guessing if they fail I'm screwed in the future?

I'm a bit of a DIY novice. Any tips on making the best job I can out of this?

What makes everything worse is that my media unit is actually also too short. I was thinking I either need new taller legs or a piece of similar dark walnut to run across the back like an upstand. Any ideas?

Overall that centre speaker has cost me a lot of heartache😂
 

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Rhinonine

Standard Member
Use plasterboard adhesive to put the cut out back in. If you can push it back in a little below the original level you can then use filler to bring it back to level. Then sand it flat should give a neat finish.
 

Broadsword

Well-known Member
Doesn't look as though there was any mortar where he cut out, he should have been able to drop the cables behind wothout even cutting that off. Thats what I do with mine, knock down the wall for the hollow bits and cut holes top and bottom for brush plates and then drop the cables down between the blocks and the plasterboard. Too late now obvs but what Whinonine says will see you right.
 

essgee

Active Member
Really appreciate that guys... I'll go buy some of that. Yeah I don't disagree.. He's not done the best job there 😥

Am I best off using another filler like gyproc to smooth over?
 

Rhinonine

Standard Member
Doesn't look as though there was any mortar where he cut out, he should have been able to drop the cables behind wothout even cutting that off. Thats what I do with mine, knock down the wall for the hollow bits and cut holes top and bottom for brush plates and then drop the cables down between the blocks and the plasterboard. Too late now obvs but what Whinonine says will see you right.
I don't like wine.😛
 

Rhinonine

Standard Member
Really appreciate that guys... I'll go buy some of that. Yeah I don't disagree.. He's not done the best job there 😥

Am I best off using another filler like gyproc to smooth over?
It's such a small patch job that any plaster based filler will do, easy to sand down 120 grit sandpaper.
I'm a plasterer so I've got some of this in the van, probably other trade's too.
 

essgee

Active Member
Thank you so much. I'm really grateful for the reply, especially so late on a Saturday.

Lastly... Do I just admit defeat that I've gotta put the adhesive on top of the cables so they'll be essentially stuck in place?
 

Rhinonine

Standard Member
Thank you so much. I'm really grateful for the reply, especially so late on a Saturday.

Lastly... Do I just admit defeat that I've gotta put the adhesive on top of the cables so they'll be essentially stuck in place?
You can put small dots of plasterboard adhesive round the cables, yes as you bed the plasterboard in it will push adhesive towards the cable's but they won't end up embedded in plasterboard adhesive.
As I've said before the patch is so small it doesn't need a big dot of adhesive.
 

TheHighFlyingBirds

Well-known Member
Could you not put trunking over the cable before adding the adhesive / plasterboard back?
 

essgee

Active Member
Honestly... Not sure. The gap between the breeze block and the back of the plasterboard is very small.
 

essgee

Active Member
Ok one last question for anyone who might be able to help...

.. I've managed to get a sheet of plasterboard at the same width and will need to cut two pieces which will fit on my holes.

Is it just trial and error or is there a reliable way to trace the holes I have?
 

Rhinonine

Standard Member
Could you not put trunking over the cable before adding the adhesive / plasterboard back?

Ok one last question for anyone who might be able to help...

.. I've managed to get a sheet of plasterboard at the same width and will need to cut two pieces which will fit on my holes.

Is it just trial and error or is there a reliable way to trace the holes I have?
If you have the original cut outs use them as a template, if not just measure the patch height and width and use these to cut the correct shape on the new plasterboard.
 

essgee

Active Member
If you have the original cut outs use them as a template, if not just measure the patch height and width and use these to cut the correct shape on the new plasterboard.
I have some cut outs but the silly sod did multiple bits so I think it'd be better to just start again? Otherwise it'll be like an uneven jigsaw puzzle.

OK ill just trace as best I can. Thanks again for your guidance.
 

Rhinonine

Standard Member
I have some cut outs but the silly sod did multiple bits so I think it'd be better to just start again? Otherwise it'll be like an uneven jigsaw puzzle.

OK ill just trace as best I can. Thanks again for your guidance.
Use a straight piece of wood to draw lines using the measurements you've taken so you have the right shape drawn on the new plasterboard and use a Stanley knife.
You should only need two measurements, measure down from the top edge of the plasterboard for the length and from the left/right edge for the width.
You cut from the corner of the plasterboard, your pencil mark will be L shaped and only two cuts will be required.
 

essgee

Active Member
Well today was the day. Gave it a go and all was going well until I've had a proper look tonight after one coat of paint. Admittedly it's lit from a lamp to the side which is never going to help.

More sanding required.. Would you go back and try and fill again? Or do I have to accept it was always going to be a patch job so won't be perfect. The raised ridge on the right side didn't seem to want to be hand sanded..
 

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Rhinonine

Standard Member
Well today was the day. Gave it a go and all was going well until I've had a proper look tonight after one coat of paint. Admittedly it's lit from a lamp to the side which is never going to help.

More sanding required.. Would you go back and try and fill again? Or do I have to accept it was always going to be a patch job so won't be perfect. The raised ridge on the right side didn't seem to want to be hand sanded..
I might be inclined to put a little more filler over the patch as filler can sometimes shrink back a little.
 

essgee

Active Member
Thank you dude... I gave another layer of fill and its looking much better! I also realised I cut a piece of fresh plasterboard for the large hole and just whacked paint straight on... Gutted I should have done a thinned down version first?

The smaller hole on the right was filled with a pre painted piece and the hole is literally invisible now.

Couldn't have done it without you, so thank you once again.
 

ufo550

Well-known Member
Apply some paint to your finish. Let it dry thoroughly, then check. If you can still see the repair, repeat the process. Slow process, but prep is key.

Use less filler, don’t rely on sanding down too much, as you’ll end up damaging the surrounding plasterboard
 

essgee

Active Member
Apply some paint to your finish. Let it dry thoroughly, then check. If you can still see the repair, repeat the process. Slow process, but prep is key.

Use less filler, don’t rely on sanding down too much, as you’ll end up damaging the surrounding plasterboard
Thank you, building up a few thin layers makes for sense...I'll add a few more.
 

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