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Panny 6 picture settings

Discussion in 'Plasma TVs' started by Madders, Dec 13, 2003.

  1. Madders

    Madders
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    Hi There,

    Is there any way of getting the option for changing "colour" in the picture settings when connection via VGA or DVI connections? Either in service menu or some other way? It is not selectable when connected via the above 2 methods, yet when I connect via scart, I have the "colour" option I can tweak.

    Thanks,

    Steve
     
  2. Madders

    Madders
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  3. thxultra

    thxultra
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    Panny 5 the same , have'nt heard of any easy way of changing it although tinkering with the service menu might change some things but i think the colour balance looks ok to me
     
  4. dwillis

    dwillis
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    Hi Guys/Gals

    It’s been 2 weeks now since the Panny 6 positioned itself on the wall and boy am I happy with it. However I thought I’d gatecrash this topic to ask what settings you Panny 6 owners have gone for.

    I used the THX optim on the Finding Nemo disc and can say that I’m happy with the settings via component. However I’m still struggling to get the best settings for Sky.

    I’ve compiled a search on this site for panny 6 settings and can’t seem to find anything. Or am I just stupid, don’t answer that !!!

    So come on, what settings have you found best ??

    _________________________
    Panasonic TH-42PWD6BX, Yamaha DSP-A2, Denon 2800MKII, x3 M&K K17, x2 M&K K4 Tripole, Yamaha YST-300, PS2, Gamecube
     
  5. deman77

    deman77
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    I think you can change two channels (i think it's red and blue) shadows and higlights regardless of input in the advanced picture settings menu, which needs to be enabled first. The third channel is presumed to be set through contrast and brightness (you just tweak them relative to each other). I'm not sure what the menu entry is called (didn't use it for ages) but you enable it at the bottom of the picture settings menu and you can then scroll to the next page.

    SKY is perceived to be quite heavy on reds so I reduced reds in there. Also set sharpness to minus few notches on VGA as it is still gonna be way sharper than scart but with less sharpening artefacts.

    I didn't touch anything on component input for my Tosh dvd.

    Contrast and brightness differ depending on your ambient lighting and even time of the day. THX setup is good for that.

    Make sure you disable all screensaving functions. There is one that adjusts contrast and brightness depending on dynamic range of the picture and that is really annoying. Also get rid of automatic contrast adjustment it's inadequate most of the time.

    Bear in mind this is very crude way to set up your plasma, and is not gonna be anywhere near ISF calibration.
     
  6. dwillis

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    Thanks deman, appreciate your help, I shall have a play later. I've seen various threads, in particular from Gordon regarding ISF Calibration. Is this something that you have invested in ?

    Would ISF calibration eliminate or at least reduce the solarisation effect that you tend to get on plasma’s ?
     
  7. Mr.D

    Mr.D
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    The Red and Blue cut-off and drive controls are for setting grayscale : I wouldn't use them for saturation adjustment.
    You don't actually need to adjust the green to set grayscale balance the red and blue controls will give you enough control over the chromaticity position ( liek I said don't use them for saturation type adjustments)

    If you are using the vga input doesn't the source have a saturation option somewhere?

    Re: the posterising. I've yet to see a plasma that doesn't do this . The only thing you can do is ensure you optomise the available contrast range ( set black and whitepoints correctly) It will probably still posterise ; I personally wouldn't have a plasma for this reason but I needed something slim as a second set.
     
  8. deman77

    deman77
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    Mr.D, can you explain how saturation is different from greyscale. My understanding is that greyscale is the proportion in which the primary colours mix together and saturation is how much grey (read mix of the primary colours is in the picture). So if I am trying to reduce the red I need to fix the grey scale, and if I'm trying to make colours more vivid, I increase saturation. Is that right?

    Also, is there an udjustment for Saturation in D6?

    dwillis, I haven't ISF calibrated my D6. I had AV budget freeze in my household when I only had a scaler and an ISF left for my dream setup. I was lucky to get away with good cables.
     
  9. Madders

    Madders
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    Many thanks for all the replies. I am looking to get a lifelike looking image rather than a cinematic looking image. I can get to the sort of image I want with my scart hooked up to my sky+ box. I can get the skin tones to look - well, like skin! As well as colours which, although sharp and vibrant, do not look false. This is mainly achieved by the combination of the contrast and colour settings. Although I can still alter the contrast via VGA, I can't alter the "colour", which is a great shame. I was hoping for some sort of "secret code" that would give me the option to change the "colour" in VGA or DVI mode.

    Thanks,

    Steve
     
  10. Mr.D

    Mr.D
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    Ah God do I have to?

    Ok firstly the two are apples and oranges but really we are only interested in their practical effects with regard to the real world : ie your plasma.

    what your Rand B low and high controls do is adjust the amount of either color at the extremes of the grayscale ie the high end and the low end. I'm not too sure why you need a high and low adjustment on a digital device as its likely got a native linear response anyway ( it might be because there is additional gamma correction going on to mimic a CRT type display enviroment anyway....)

    Because these are grayscale controls they also effect intensity ( not just colour , its a very important distinction).

    You start pulling red out of the low end and things will start to green up alright but you are also losing intensity ( most of intensity comes from the green channel so its unlikely to damage things too much and you can always gang the settings ( if you had the green control! and restore the overall level to a certain extent).

    So you've got a less red low end but what about the high end ? Its still as red so unless you tweak that as well things will start to bump up in the red as picture level increases ( or the low end looks greenish...same difference) So you have to tweak the high end to get your grayscale to "track" consistently across the intensity range. Your eyeballs won't be too hot at tweaking in the high end by the way.

    Remember the reason you started doing this in the first place was to knock back some reds ? You might well have done that but you've also pushed everything over towards green/blue and if you haven't maintained the luminence after your changes you'll have skewed the intensity curve of the device a little bit too. (potentially clipping or crushing if you go mad) This isn't going to do that posterisation "feature" any favours either.

    You won't do the display itself any harm ( unlike a CRT) so have a fiddle if you like but its really the wrong adjustment for the problem you are seeing. I would recommend you get your hands on some decent calibration reference material beforehand.
     

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