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Panasonic Service Menu Values?

Discussion in 'TVs' started by hutchingsp, Jan 6, 2003.

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  1. hutchingsp

    hutchingsp
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    Can anyone tell me what the various values in the Panasonic Service menu are on a TX28PL1?

    I'm generally happy with the picture, but if I'm in "analyze the picture" mode versus "watching the telly" mode, there's some light pincushioning in 4:3, and the RGB scart seems to have a 1-pixel wide "bright" line down the left of the image, again in 4:3.

    Whilst I intend to write all the default values down, rather than just play I'd like to know what the values do.

    regards
    Paul
     
  2. dkcph

    dkcph
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    These tips should apply to most of the current Panasonic Tvs.
    (PK,PF,D2,D2 etc blahdeblah)

    WRITE DOWN ALL THE ORIGINAL VALUES BEFORE CHANGING ANYTHING. ADJUSTMENT
    IS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU
    INFICT ON YOUR SET ARISING FROM THESE INSTRUCTIONS.

    This one refers to the PK series but will also apply to most of the
    others.
    [older models D2/D4 etc hold down "reveal" instead of "index" in the
    service menu access mode]
    =======================================================================
    PK1 service menu access:

    Bass to max
    treble to min
    hold down "index"
    press "-" (minus) on the front of the set.

    this will get you into the service menu.(it will default to 16:9 mode
    makes things a bit tricky for 4:3 geometry but it is possible)

    coloured fastext buttons on the remote navigate left to right they are:
    back/forward/adjust up/adjust down : last two might be reversed but you
    get the idea.

    "STR" saves new value: if you modify a setting and don't press this then
    the value will go back to its previous value when you move out of it.

    "N" gets you out of the service menu.

    settings are :

    H-pos (horizontal position)
    V-pos (vertical position)
    H-amp (horizontal amplitude)
    V-amp (vertical amplitude) *the one you want probably.*
    EW-amp1(EW-amplitude coarse pincushion looks like)
    EW-amp2(EW-amplitude finer/corners looks like)
    Trapez1(Trapezium comp_ suck it and see!)
    Trapez2(finer of the above suck it and see!)
    V-lin (vertical linearity)
    V-sym (vertical symmetry used with above to sort vertical linearity !)

    You can mess about with the above settings with impunity. They are all
    fairly intuitive and relate to centring , overscan , geometry ,
    linearity and are interactive with each other. However avoid going to
    extremes on any settings (you won't need to anyway) as it might kick in
    some sort of protection and collapse the picture (thin horizontal line)
    which will probably burn the tube in about three seconds flat and you
    will no longer be able to see the service
    menu to undo your error!

    The others are:(*these ones should not be played with*)

    DVCO (take a guess at deflection voltage cut-off/correction??) : leave
    it alone you need a PAL colour bar for it to auto adjust to. (more info
    to follow )

    Cut-off (cut-off DC leave well alone)
    Ug2 (avoid like the plague)

    Hi-light & lowlight (RGB cut-off and drive adjustments for colour temp:
    leave alone unless you have a colour analyser handy and know a thing or
    two about CIE chromaticity aims) "warm" seems close to 6500K anyway : I
    intend to check grayscale tracking properly at some point.

    Sub-brightness (pedestal black level: sets lowest point on the
    brightness control basically)

    I strongly suggest that you avoid adjusting any of the the ones above as
    they are either very vague(technical) in their purpose or have the
    possibility of damaging the set or both!

    -------------------------------------
    Some advice about adjustment.

    Write down all the original values BEFORE you start adjusting things.
    this is the only way to return to the original settings if you cock
    things up.

    Don't go to extremes on ANY setting. The settings are all interactive to
    a certain extent.Proper adjustment involves ping-ponging back and forth
    between adjustments to ensure you are not over-compensating for
    something another setting is doing. Balance remember.

    Use relevant test material (Video essentials is good but remember it may
    not be 100% for a 625/50 image: its actually pretty close on the PK1 so
    don't worry about it).

    Make sure you are looking at the relevant input type before engaging the
    service menu( on the PK it looks like one lot of settings applies to
    everything: which is actually good in a way).

    When adjusting geometry I initially center the image (H-pos V-pos) then
    take off the overscan (V-amp H-amp) so I can see the edges of the image.
    Get everything pucka geometry wise (make sure all edges are straight as
    poss and the scan is linear (no bulgy distortion). Then put on the
    overscan (H-amp V-amp equally) until things start to go out of kilter
    (and they will) readjust for optimum and then more overscan etc until
    satisfied.

    Big tip: Use a ruler and or set-square (nice big ones) do not trust your
    eyes with geometry issues.

    Take your time: the geometry alone might take some time.(the concave 4:3
    takes a bit of time to fix). You may not be able to get everything
    perfect (trust me) but you should be able to improve the bowing problems
    until its unobjectionable.

    The more accurate the 16:9 adjustments are the more accurate the 4:3 is.
    But you may still need to come out of the service mode to check those
    nasty concave sides in 4:3 and pop back in to change a setting that
    fixes it (without compromising the 16:9 mode at the same time!)
     
  3. mandlebrot

    mandlebrot
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    Very nice instructions dkcph:)

    Is there anyway to correct bending/curving on the top and bottom of the image? I played around a while ago but never got them any better and couldn't really find an adjustment for them, is there one?
     
  4. dkcph

    dkcph
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    The above instructions was originally posted by by Paul Solecki I think end reposted by Tim Puffet in newsgroup uk.media.home-cinema.
     
  5. mandlebrot

    mandlebrot
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    Ok thks:)
     

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