Panasonic PF50 Pro Plasma- initial impressions

fluxo

Distinguished Member
PB2 internals (from the service manual):

Screen Shot 2013-11-17 at 17.23.45.png


You might be able to deduce from the SM and other documents/pictures online which generation driving circuitry that is.
 

SteveTM

Novice Member
Thanks for finding that service manual. I couldn't find any details of the actual 'a' board name etc but the chassis of the PF50 is GPF15DMON, whereas this PB2 model is GPF16DMON which suggests these new interactive screens are 16th gen which probably means they also use this years 60 series screen.

Apart from the pen/touch screen, a 'Picture in Picture' feature makes a return on the PB2 and two built in rear firing internal speakers are now fitted- which could be a first for a pro panel.

Not sure how the interactive pen/sensor affects picture quality (probably not at all as the VT series have this function also) so presumably the 50/65PB2 is the panel to search for if anyone wants the latest (and perhaps greatest) Panasonic pro plasma panel. Its toughened front glass however probably means it's filter and black level won't challenge the VT/ZTs, or have the extra internal processing of the BT/VX300s.

Edit:
Just looking at the manual for the PB2, one feature that seems to be is missing compared to the PF50 is IFC (the frame creation option) which I find very handy to stop judder now and then on panning shots and occasional flicker.

Another addition from looking at the manuals, -the hidden option 'Advanced Motion Resolution' is also missing from the PB2 manual. No idea how this setting actually improves on anything as I always leave it on, but coupled with a lack of IFC, motion handling could appear slightly different on the PB2 compared to the PF50. Also, perhaps not important but no 3D option on the PB2.
 
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button_sw

Active Member
Hello,
There is a chance you snagged the 50PF50 I also had my eye on if its the low priced one listed on ebay a few days ago. The listing ended early so not sure what it actually sold for but if you managed to get it near the opening price you have probably the best bargain pro plasma around!

Glad you like the black levels and also the stability. There is still hardly anything that gets me down about the PF50, its weird. So sad that there will never be a PF60 or any more Panasonic pro plasmas.

Anyway, I do also find colour needs to be set down to -5 or so like yourself.

No CMS sadly, just the high and low white balance as you will have seen in the options. You can also adjust RGB drive and RGB cutoff in the service menu but no 10 point adjustment anywhere that I know of unless there are some secret hidden button presses to unlock them- but I doubt it.

For whats it's worth, and it's probably not much, these are my current settings, (these are just my preference by eye on the 60" model and not professionally calibrated):

Warm
Gamma: 2.2
Brightness: 0 (I try to set up the low white balance so this can stay at zero)
Colour -4
Contrast: varies
WB High R: 0
WB High G: -15 (minus fifteen!?! - always far too much green at zero on every PF I've used )
WB High B: -12 (sometimes vary this if i want a slightly cooler blue for videogames)
WB Low R: + 5
WB Low G: -1
WB Low B: + 5

-15, and -12 seems crazy, but after hours and hours trying different ways to get a picture I'm personally happy with, blue and green always have to be offset down to get a neutral grey shade using warm.

Anyway, glad you're liking the PF50 and can corroborate a few of my own findings.

Steve

Hi Steve, it was indeed the very same PF50 on Ebay and I got it for slightly less than what it was up for! (I feel Christmas has come early for me) as I have been after a pro panny for a while. As I said coming from from a Samsung d8000 which was the top of the range in 2011 the difference in picture quality and stability is massive and I wasn't expecting it to be. The Samsung is brilliant during the day and with lighting in the room dur to the filter but when the lights go off it has always been a disappointment and the black levels are average at best. The PF50's black levels are so superior to the D8000 I can't imagine what the VT50/65 and ZT panels are like as the blacks are even better!!

I haven't touched the W/B controls yet as I got rid of my meter after calibrating the Samsung but the picture looks superb to me and doing the W/B by eye is a bit of guess work imho but will probably purchase a meter again to tweak it properly. Do you use a pluge picture to set the black level as I have mine at 9 which shows detail at 17. Here are my settings:

Picture Mode: Cinema
Contrast: 20
Brightness: 9
Color: -5
Hue: +1
Sharpness: 0
Gamma: 2.4
Cinema Reality: On

All other options switched off.

How do you find Gamma set at 2.2? I think it looks more like 2.0 to my eye and the menu setting of 2.4 looks closer to 2.2. Can I also ask how you activate the hidden 'Advanced Motion Resolution' menu and do you know what it does?

I'm so glad I have found another user with the PF50 as trying to find any decent info on these sets is almost impossible on the internet, so thanks again for all of your info. I'll try and keep this topic refreshed with any info I find and if I get another meter I will post my accurate white balance settings.

Cheers

Steve
 

SteveTM

Novice Member
Thanks for the reply and I'm glad the PF50 has gone to someone who is really appreciating it. If I'd have won the auction I would have had to keep it boxed up and only used if my current TV had a problem.

'Advance motion resolution' and other hidden options are found by selecting and holding 'OK' for about 5 seconds over 'OSD language' in the setup section. When it works 'options' and 'shipping' (to reset all settings to factory) pop up in the middle of the screen. Advanced motion is on by default and I have no idea if it improves the picture motion much or not. At a guess it allows all 1080 lines to refresh motion instead of 900 per frame, but not sure.

I always thought 'cinema reality' on only worked with ntsc signals but its another setting that I've never seen make much difference. IFC on mid however can be great, but its a trade off between less judder vs more artefacts. I leave IFC mid on for Sky tv (Sky seems to be judder city most of the time!), but off for gaming as IFC doesn't seem to change anything on a 30fps signal- which always look naff to me on plasmas.

Another little useful tip if you weren't aware is in the 'Input Label' setup section, name any inputs you don't use to 'Skip' so you dont have to cycle through them all every time, e.g I dont use PC, Component, Video and Network.

On my previous 50" PF30 gamma 2.2 was quite dull looking, a bit washed out and pale which is perhaps what you are also seeing and why you prefer 2.4. The PF30 didnt have 2.4 so I had to use a mix of gamma 2.0 and black extension+1 to get what I thought was better (this also reduced the fluctuating brightness issue a tad but thats another story). I dont recommend that method though because some shadow detail is crushed- but it did give a punchy image. On my 60" PF50 however gamma 2.2 looks like what I expect gamma 2.2 should look like for both daytime and nigh time viewing. Perhaps the 50" have different gamma characteristics to the 60" screens.

I've attached a preview of the main test card/avi I use to get greys as nice as possible. (I've scaled down and brightened up this png attachment in photoshop so it's unusable now but it was just so you knew which one I meant). Apologies if you use this anyway.

I've found this is mainly all I need to get better black level/brightness, high white balance and shadow colour and grey scale as good as possible by eye without meters. Wrong low WB usually colour tints the dark grey blinking bars on the centre black background, and wrong high WB usually tint the blinking lighter bars on the white background. The similar blinking colour clipping avi is also very useful if white balance changes start clipping the colours as well.

You perhaps have your brightness up at +9 because your gamma is at 2.4. With gamma 2.2 its fine at zero on mine (where the little speckles/dancing pixels disappear on full black).

If you connect/calibrate with HDMI input there is a 0-255 or 16-235 range selection in the signal section as well- useful if you ever use consoles or pcs that have their own hdmi range options. Some inputs don't allow this range to be changed however.

You sound like you know what you are doing calibration wise so I'm not sure my 'by eye' or personal methods will mean much if you get a meter again though. As you sound impressed with the picture quality the previous owner must have set the TV up really well already.
 

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button_sw

Active Member
Hi Steve,

Thanks for your very thorough response, and believe me I really do appreciate this TV and it will give me many years of pleasure (Fingers Crossed!). With Panasonic stopping Plasma production for good, to get one of their last generation Pro displays I feel very lucky and am just so thrilled with the quality of the set.

Thanks for the tip regarding 'Advance motion resolution' I will check it out later when I get in from work although it seems difficult to find out what it actually does! LOL

Cinema Reality does not seem to do anything so you are probably correct that it is just an NTSC feature and IFC I always leave off as even on Mid it creates the 'Soap Opera' effect and it does not look natural to me.

Maybe the 60" and 50" Displays to have slightly different Gamma settings as I am convinced that the Menu setting of 2.4 looks more like 2.2 in real terms. It will be interesting to see how good my eyes are when I get a meter!!

That is a similar test video that I use which is on the AVS 709.rec calibration disc, I will check out the flashing bars to see if I can see any errors by eye but have found in the past that it is nearly impossible to set white balance without a meter.

Thanks for the great tips Steve, I feel much happier now there is a another PF50 owner out there so if I have any questions I'll give you a shout!

Cheers,
Steve
 

Capital

Standard Member
Hey guys

I just got a 42pf50u too! It's a US version though

A couple things to note.
While There might be differences due to EU energy saver modes, but on the us version, with all power saving stuff turned off, and peak limit off:


CINEMA mode seems limited to only about 20FL
STANDARD mode will reach up to 35FL at the full +30 setting
(I have mine set too +25, which give a perfect 100cd/m2 reading with a small white box pattern)

As for gamma, I'll attach some screenshots later of some rough out of the box readings, but 2.2 is was too light, 2.4 better, and the 2.6 setting reads the closest to 2.2!

So I would choose Standard mode, gamma 2.6
With the gamma change, you need to raise Brightness up - mine's at +15, but I haven't fine tuned it in yet. It might still be a touch dark.

(Yes, It seemed perfect at 0 with the 2.2 gamma setting)

Also, I turned OFF the Advanced Motion Resolution setting, as It seemed to be causing th strange soap opera effect..

I had the Frame Creation turned off from the start (not sure what this does)
Also, I disabled nanodrift.. Yuk!

Pretty great so far!
_____________
EDIT: I came back to add to this post. After a few days, It became clear I was mistaken in the above info. My gamma test observations where based off standard window patterns from a calibration disc. I noticed watching program material that things weren't right though.
After looking into it, it became clear that these patterns will give misleading results on a plasma display.

You need to use APL windowed patterns to get a correct gamma reading.. with those, it's clear that the gamma menu selections 2.2, 2.4, and 2.6 are actually correct! Setting to 2.6 or 2.4 will make things look too dark, with faces over saturated.

2.2 is actually 2.2 with program material playing..
 
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SteveTM

Novice Member
Hello,

Just thought I'd post a reply even though I can't really add much to any of your findings as I've not measured the brightness properly, but thanks for finding some actual values for the differences between modes on yours.

As you have a meter you’ve probably found all this out already, so apologies in advance, but just some more observations to add.

I've found 0 contrast on dynamic for example is around the same as +8 on standard and perhaps +15/20 on cinema for general viewing. As peak whites are capped on cinema I prefer standard mode myself as well (although I'm happy with +5 contrast or lower on the 60" most of the time).

Dynamic seems basically the same as normal once colour and contrast is set the same -apart from allowing white levels to go even brighter, but the way dynamic mode can instantly alternate on and off all pixel luminosity (0 MLL) when there is full black area on screen (e.g during the opening and closing white text credits on films) can get a little off putting when the TVs real MLL kicks back on- and then off again for the next brief black screen. (This effect is usually only noticeable in night viewing).

Interesting that you feel the advanced motion resolution causes some negative issues. I thought it was just the frame creation option that can create the video tape effect (mainly on max setting on the PF).

........

One other area of the PF50 that, touch wood, remains consistant is a lack of white clouds/blotches about a quarter in to each side of the panel only seen on a blank input or very dark area of the screen. On a blank input in a pitch black room, the PF50 screen is still nice and uniform showing just the slight minimal charge glow of each pixel. My previous PF30 had the side clouds develop after 1000/1500 hours use so hopefully whatever caused that is not going to happen on the 50 series.
 
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Capital

Standard Member
I've only had a few hours with it actually, but it was my impression that the Advanced Motion mode was doing something weird, it seemed to effect frame rate.
I had turned off Frame Creation first thing out of the box, At least I think i did.


I'll need to wait until I get a chance to view in complete darkness to get the Brightness tuned in perfectly, it's close but not quite. The pattern on the GetGray dvd is great for this in case you don't have it



As for Dynamic mode.. That's probably not one to really use unless the display it for signage or something where it needs to be as bright as possible. The gamma uses an S-Curve on it, not really for home viewing. There might be other internal settings that make the mode different (beyond the user menu)



Standard and Cinema or pretty much the same though (other than this new brightness limit in cinema) -on the older models I had they were the same.

Panasonic put out a great PDF a while back detailing some of this stuff on the pro panels, though a few things seem to have changed in the last few years..

http://www.panasonic.com/business/plasma/pdf/calibrationoperation-panasonicplasmamonitors-2009-07.pdf


the say "Before calibration, you should select Standard or Cinema modes from the list of factory image presets." and "The only significant difference between Standard and Cinema modes will be the starting point for color temperature adjustments."
 

SteveTM

Novice Member
Hello,

What I like to do is learn about each setting and mode of a TV to see how each differentiate between each other as thoroughly as possible regardless whether its the mode I'll actually be using. My extra information regarding dynamic mode was purely to add to peoples knowledge, especially the way it cuts off all luminosity on a blank signal which is unique to that mode, but yes I wouldn't suggest using dynamic as the main setting instead of standard or cinema mode.

I do feel dynamic, once default settings are toned down, is no longer the cliché torch mode like it is on consumer sets or the older pro panels (which I've also had), and the user selectable S-Curve gamma option has been removed on all modes with the PF50 series (well UK models at least) and all default with gamma 2.2 from the factory I think.

Even though I find standard the best mode for my use- it is the least stable and still triggers a few fbrs (brightness fluctuations) from time to time. No where near as bad as the 30 series fluctuations however, but I use standard because it limits a strange (possibly pixel over voltage/pulse) issue that creates a mild centre green halo tinge area that cinema mode slightly amplified a few months ago. Personally, if I had no uniformity issues I'd probably leave it on cinema mode but I don't want to risk the green issue coming back. This green halo issue is another reason I spent a lot of time trying to see which mode limits the effect but in the process also learned a lot of the pros and cons of each mode in general viewing.

I've found cinema mode is also driven differently to standard on mine, lots of little evidence including cleaner motion handling - in standard I get ghosting on fast camera pans at 60fps on high contrast areas (when gaming), whereas a quick flick to cinema mode fixes this (actually there is no ghosting at all in areas where standard creates subtle double/triple imaging). I haven't done any testing regarding the 'advanced motion resolution' mystery setting but if it is a factor- its function could be limited to cinema mode. On the VX/BT300 I think the double gradation feature was also limited to cinema mode so maybe this is the mode to select to guarantee all these bonus features are working -if you want them on that is.

Cinema also has a higher wattage use for similar light output (only 10 watts or so last time I tested) so I'm sure there is different and extra processing going on. From my experience with the recent UK PF models- normal/dynamic share similar code, and cinema/monitor together share slightly different code albeit all with their own brightness caps.
 
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button_sw

Active Member
Hey guys

I just got a 42pf50u too! It's a US version though

A couple things to note.
While There might be differences due to EU energy saver modes, but on the us version, with all power saving stuff turned off, and peak limit off:


CINEMA mode seems limited to only about 20FL
STANDARD mode will reach up to 35FL at the full +30 setting
(I have mine set too +25, which give a perfect 100cd/m2 reading with a small white box pattern)

As for gamma, I'll attach some screenshots later of some rough out of the box readings, but 2.2 is was too light, 2.4 better, and the 2.6 setting reads the closest to 2.2!

So I would choose Standard mode, gamma 2.6
With the gamma change, you need to raise Brightness up - mine's at +15, but I haven't fine tuned it in yet. It might still be a touch dark.

(Yes, It seemed perfect at 0 with the 2.2 gamma setting)

Also, I turned OFF the Advanced Motion Resolution setting, as It seemed to be causing th strange soap opera effect..

I had the Frame Creation turned off from the start (not sure what this does)
Also, I disabled nanodrift.. Yuk!

Pretty great so far!

Hi Capital,

As you probably ready earlier in the thread I also purchased a 50PF50 recently and find your initial findings very close to my set when I calibrated it. Cinema Mode is by far the best mode to use IMO and as Steve pointed out appears to be driven differently as the graduations are smoother and any mild DFC that is in Standard Mode are nowhere to be seen on Cinema. I have contrast at 20 and this produces about 21ftL luminance. This can be upped to about 24ftL with contrast at 30 and ALL_DRV maxed out in the service menu but the whites are then too bright for me. Gamma at 2.4 gives me a great 2.25 average gamma but I do have a spike upwards at 90IRE which I can't seem to shift (10IRE to 80IRE is pretty flat). In dark room viewing, Cinema mode with contrast at 20 is perfect.

I also calibrated Standard mode to about 30ftL (35ftL is too bright for me) and it also requires gamma to be set at 2.6 to get a real 2.2 and it looks good but I would only ever use it if the room is really bright as to me the picture is not as refined as Cinema mode and as about 80% of my TV viewing is at night with the lights low or off it is perfect.

Did your TV have a big red push on the high end white balance? I have my Red_Drive at -21 just to bring it back in line for 6500k.

I'm so glad there are some more owners enjoying this fabulous model Plasma, I watched Man of Steel the other night and the picture was flawless, deep blacks, a clean image and soooo much low end detail my jaw was on the floor!!! :D


Steve
 

fluxo

Distinguished Member
Cinema on the GT50 has (apparently) more gradations than some other modes (e.g., Normal), but a higher MLL. I have speculated before that Cinema may have a hidden and unchangeable panel luminance setting of low, because that is consistent with the behaviour of the US 2012 models and this year's US and UK models (the latest UK Panasonics make the panel luminance setting available in some modes).

I'm not sure I have written that very clearly, so please ask for clarification if it's woolly sounding.

What you have is not a GT50. However, what you describe sounds similar to what was seen on that TV and it is a same generation plasma screen.

Cheers.
 

SteveTM

Novice Member
Hi Fluxo

Not noticed any difference in black level (thankfully) between cinema and the other modes which probably means the PFs still retain most of their code from previous pro panels instead of the similar Vieras. The owners with the meters will be able to check that aspect much more accurately though if they are curious themselves.

At the risk of boring everyone senseless with more daft info, when I select to change from normal to dynamic it's an instant picture swap (hopefully confirming that they are almost the same mode), but from dynamic to cinema there seems to be two stages, a millisecond or so after the initial swap there's another quick picture adjustment process going on before it is fully ready on mine.

Doubt cinema mode adds much extra lag, but normal/dynamic (without IFC on) probably has the least and are the purest way if you are a gamer using these sets. I did mention a little bit of 60fps motion ghosting in a previous post regarding normal mode, (which might contradict what I'm trying to say here), but I'd just like to clarify that it's never been an issue whatsoever overall and have only ever seen it occur a couple of times.
 

Capital

Standard Member
Hi Capital,
I have contrast at 20 and this produces about 21ftL luminance. This can be upped to about 24ftL with contrast at 30 and ALL_DRV maxed out in the service menu but the whites are then too bright for me. Gamma at 2.4 gives me a great 2.25 average gamma but I do have a spike upwards at 90IRE which I can't seem to shift (10IRE to 80IRE is pretty flat). In dark room viewing, Cinema mode with contrast at 20 is perfect.

I also calibrated Standard mode to about 30ftL (35ftL is too bright for me) and it also requires gamma to be set at 2.6 to get a real 2.2
Steve

Cool, this seems like just what I am seeing too!
I'll probably do the same thing you did. I agree 30 FL is hard to watch in the dark with larger displays..

SMPTE Theater brightness level is only 14 fl.. and MONITOR mode is set to approximate this according to Panasonic. It also has less AGC than other modes.
If I had a 65, I'd probably use that mode myself.

As for white balance, just as they intended (for some crazy reason) Normal was about 7500, and Warm is around 5500..

I also get the Gamma peak at 90, I've read that this is just something all panasonics do.
 

Capital

Standard Member
After a few days, It became clear I was mistaken in the above info. My gamma test observations where based off standard window patterns from a calibration disc. I noticed watching program material that things weren't right though.
After looking into it, it became clear that these patterns will give misleading results on a plasma display.

You need to use APL windowed patterns to get a correct gamma reading.. with those, it's clear that the gamma menu selections 2.2, 2.4, and 2.6 are actually correct! Setting to 2.6 or 2.4 will make things look too dark, with faces over saturated.

2.2 is actually 2.2 with program material playing..
 

button_sw

Active Member
Hi Capital,

I've always been a bit confused about what patterns to use on Plasmas and figured that the gerneral consensus is that the Standard Window patterns are correct. Do you think that the Pro PF plasmas are different and require the APL patterns?

Also what APL Patterns did you use?
 

Capital

Standard Member
small window patterns are good too.

The fist time I was using the getgray DVD patters, which are rather large around 20% I think .
They really made things test weird.
I'm not sure what is right, but I'm planning on settling with 10% on black probably
 

button_sw

Active Member
OK cool, I used the AVS HCFR Standard Windows and I think they are 18% in size.

I'm going to try the 10% Windows on the GCD Disk and see how the Gamma behaves then. 2.2 Setting in the Menu definitely seems too bright for me and this show's in the results stating it as 2.0 when measured.
 

button_sw

Active Member
Capital / SteveTM,

I had another calibration run yesterday and done most of my adjustments in the service menu as they seem to be more accurate when changing them. I jotted down the default service menu numbers in HCFR and calibrated the TV, but during the calibration HCFR crashed and I have lost the default settings for:

RED_DRV
GREEN_DRV
BLUE_DRV
RED_CUT
GREEN_CUT
BLUE_CUT

ALL_CUT
ALL_DRV :eek::eek:

Calibration looks good but I would like the default settings incase I ever need to reset and start again as putting the TV back to shipping mode does not reset the Service Menu settings!! I would really, really appreciate it if you could check your default figures as I'm sure they would be similar for the same model.

I also managed to stop the gamma spike at 90 IRE and have got it much flatter using BT.1886 although there is still room for improvment. I measured black level at 0.006ftl in Cinema mode but I have not checked Normal mode yet, I may do later if I get time to see if there is a difference but 0.006ftl brings it in line with black levels from a VT30 which is pretty good :)

Cheers

Steve
 

SteveTM

Novice Member
Button,

Sorry about the delay getting back to you- I haven't used my TV for a couple of days.

My factory settings are:

RED_DRV FA
GREEN_DRV FC
BLUE_DRV 7B
RED_CUT 80
GREEN_CUT 80
BLUE_CUT 80

ALL_CUT 80
ALL_DRV FC

Thanks for taking the black level measurement- I didn't think the PF50s would be as dark as a VT model, - nice to know.
 

button_sw

Active Member
Thanks Steve for the SM settings, I did manage to download the service manual online for the PF50 and it tells you the default G_DRV of FC and then all coordinates of x and y for cool, normal and warm. Very handy info.

Black levels that are the same as a VT30 are more than enough for me although the series 60 vieras are under 0.002ftl so can't imagine how good they are! :-o
 
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button_sw

Active Member
OK, another update regarding the "Advanced Motion Resolution" option in the hidden menu. I have been monitoring it closely and it definitely does perform some kind of frame creation as I can now see the effect when looking but it is very, very subtle. What it does do is almost completely eliminate DFC in cinema mode as when I turn it off there is noticeable DFC on panning shots. As the Intelligent Frame Creation is only Medium and Full on this set I wonder if the Advanced Motion Resolution is like IFC Minimum on the Consumer sets. Also this setting only appears to work in Cinema Mode as in Normal mode DFC is still the same whether on or off.

I have left it on as it does not look like the soap opera effect to me and no DFC is a good thing :thumbsup:
 

Seekershadow

Novice Member
You are correct "Advanced motion resolution" replaced the minimum Frame creation setting on the PF30 which worked in all modes to combat DFC, it is very subtle and it does not add noticeable input lag although if you play games you might notice small interpolation artifacts here and there.

What setup are you guys using? I run MPC + madVR as the video processor from my PC and the picture is really unbelievable, its a real shame Panasonic have quit plasma but we are lucky to own these models, I wish I could see VX100 or VX200 one day.

Also I would like to add that only on Cinema/Monitor mode you get full gradations, other modes are utilizing a lower bit-depth and rely heavily on spatial dithering to produce a brighter image without noticeable banding

Monitor mode is just Cinema locked at -30 contrast.

Hope that helped someone

madVR settings
PC levels (0-255) also known as RGB Full Range. You need to adjust Brightness/Input Level on the display to match whatever level or grayscale range you are targeting

Scaling modes, Bilinear for upscale, downscale and chroma upscale (my preference, Jinc is said to be superior)

Gamma 2.5 on madVR and Gamma 2.2 on display = 2.35 target gamma (PF30 is missing 2.4, I find the pro models grayscale is balanced for 2.2 anyway)

"rendering > trade quality for performance > don't use dithering" (important only for plasma)

"rendering > smooth motion > use always" (makes it look 95% as smooth as CRT, this is frame blending NOT interpolation)

I think those are the major settings to get a nice picture but you can take it much further
 
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button_sw

Active Member
Hi there,

Thanks for confirming that about the Advanced Motion Resolution mode, it definitely eliminates the DFC but I still find it strange that the option is in a hidden menu! :confused:

I also use MPC & Madvr with Jinc 3 taps for the scaling. I do not use the smooth motion at all as it blurs the video when panning and the gamma I do not set as I just use the TV's calibrated gamma. Is it beneficial to set gamma in Madvr as well to get it flat?

Cheers
Steve
 

Capital

Standard Member
I've been away from a while and just read the new posts. I can't do it now, but I'll upload some gamma readings to will show the WIDE variation based on test patterns used.

From a perfectly flat 2.2, to 2.0 with big 90 ire spike and everywhere in between- all with the same tv settings , just different sized patterns
 

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