Panasonic JZ2000 OLED Owners Thread

two2midnight

Distinguished Member
The fire TV hardware matches frame rates automatically and costs considerably less than both of the above. At the right time of year the cube can be had for £60 or less.

What none of the above can do is draw any more bitrates or information from the servers from the likes of Disney+, Netflix or Prime. Therefore, a 4K stream is a 4K stream and will look exactly the same on any TV as it does via a TV's built-in apps.

This is a fact.

Unless you're so invested already in purchases via iTunes, save your money and don't buy third party hardware for streaming as it simply isn't required.
Only for Prime. Doesn't for Disney+ or ATV content.
 

Barney Gumble

Well-known Member
Only for Prime. Doesn't for Disney+ or ATV content.
I didn't know that. So, even more reason not to use third party hardware.

Honestly, unless you have a dumb TV and need to make it smart or, as I've previously mentioned, you're already invested in purchases via iTunes, I can't see the need for a dedicated streamer. I've tried them all and sent them all back.

Especially when you purchase a TV of the calibre of the JZ2000. Mine is just amazing and I've had the privilege of also owning an A90J to compare and would take the JZ2000 all day, every day.
 

yourboylollipop

Active Member
Streaming devices better how?

The Shield relies on the gimmick of 'AI upscaling' but, can't automatically match frame rates and typically costs well over a ton for the cheapest model..

Apple TV can match frame rates automatically and is able to draw more in bitrates from Apples own servers for Apple TV+ content only (including films purchased via iTunes) but, bitrates alone don't contribute to the PQ. ATV costs more than £150 for the cheapest 4K version.

The fire TV hardware matches frame rates automatically and costs considerably less than both of the above. At the right time of year the cube can be had for £60 or less.

What none of the above can do is draw any more bitrates or information from the servers from the likes of Disney+, Netflix or Prime. Therefore, a 4K stream is a 4K stream and will look exactly the same on any TV as it does via a TV's built-in apps.

This is a fact.

Unless you're so invested already in purchases via iTunes, save your money and don't buy third party hardware for streaming as it simply isn't required.

Agreed .

I think I should’ve put the ‘theoretically’ in quotations since it’s not something I believe in - though it seems the pro-streaming device position is a majority ideology in the AV community .

If I remember properly their argument is that streaming devices (not one in particular but the notion of a streaming device ) are purpose made , Receive more frequent updates and often have better connectivity … well at least theoretically (the whole specialisation kind of argument )…

But just as why I use my car’s in built radio instead of buying apple radio (or whatever smart third party car entertainment system is in fashion )- I don’t desire to be buying a streaming device .

Even when my budget LG had this very annoying glitch of disconnecting from The internet every three minutes - the accessibility and the speed of the TVs in built apps meant I never once pondered buying a streaming device .
 

dion 6

Well-known Member
It's only Amazon Prime app that doesn't do atmos if they got there act together I could retire my firestick all together
 

Barney Gumble

Well-known Member
Agreed .

I think I should’ve put the ‘theoretically’ in quotations since it’s not something I believe in - though it seems the pro-streaming device position is a majority ideology in the AV community .

If I remember properly their argument is that streaming devices (not one in particular but the notion of a streaming device ) are purpose made , Receive more frequent updates and often have better connectivity … well at least theoretically (the whole specialisation kind of argument )…

But just as why I use my car’s in built radio instead of buying apple radio (or whatever smart third party car entertainment system is in fashion )- I don’t desire to be buying a streaming device .

Even when my budget LG had this very annoying glitch of disconnecting from The internet every three minutes - the accessibility and the speed of the TVs in built apps meant I never once pondered buying a streaming device .
Sorry chap, I'm off my soapbox now.

It wasn't personal but, rather a summary of the devices available, framed around a rhetorical question as I, personally, can't see where a dedicated streamer fits in, especially when you have a TV like this.

The returns from a dedicated streamer are marginal at best for considerable additional outlay and lest we forget, rely on the notoriously fickle HDMI.
 

clived

Active Member
Hi all, my 55 is arriving between 7am (!) and 9am in the morning. To minimise messing around (and time in the quagmire behind the TV!) I’d like to optimise the connections first time, so can I ask the collective experience for the best (if there is a best) choice of HDMI socket for the following:

1) My Oppo 205D - I may occasionally use this for ARC so it needs to be the ARC socket unless that compromises playback capability at all

2) Firestick 4K (to be used for Apple TV and Disney+)

3) Virgin 4K

4) PC - 4K, currently not running any super high frame rates but might in the future be a gaming PC, so probably wants to be the VRR input

I know all of this is in the manual but I’d love to get experience in case there are any gotchas

Also, my old VT50 didn’t pass through Dolby Digital from the Fire Stick via optical or ARC so I’m using an optical bitstream extractor. I think this is no longer a problem and I’ll be able to set this up via the TV and lose the extractor - is that correct?

Thanks in advance!
 

two2midnight

Distinguished Member
I didn't know that. So, even more reason not to use third party hardware.

Honestly, unless you have a dumb TV and need to make it smart or, as I've previously mentioned, you're already invested in purchases via iTunes, I can't see the need for a dedicated streamer. I've tried them all and sent them all back.

Especially when you purchase a TV of the calibre of the JZ2000. Mine is just amazing and I've had the privilege of also owning an A90J to compare and would take the JZ2000 all day, every day.
AFAIK Panasonic apps also don't frame rate match either. Panasonic player ones are stuck at 60hz, not sure on the TV ones. If you want correct frame rate it's ATV4K. I'm still testing whether forcing Fire TV to 24p for everything (or in its case movies) works in conjunction with using the TV apps for anything which is 50 or 60 (TV sourced content).
 

Barney Gumble

Well-known Member
AFAIK Panasonic apps also don't frame rate match either. Panasonic player ones are stuck at 60hz, not sure on the TV ones. If you want correct frame rate it's ATV4K. I'm still testing whether forcing Fire TV to 24p for everything (or in its case movies) works in conjunction with using the TV apps for anything which is 50 or 60 (TV sourced content).
I’ve never read anything to suggest on-board apps don’t output content at the correct frame rates via Panasonic TVs. That’s the principle benefit of using any TVs built-in apps after all.

Do you have a source please?
 

Hamad138

Active Member
I’ve never read anything to suggest on-board apps don’t output content at the correct frame rates via Panasonic TVs. That’s the principle benefit of using any TVs built-in apps after all.

Do you have a source please?
Panasonic on board apps match frame rates, as do LG.

Android TVs don't match Frames right now but I heard Android 12 will
 

Barney Gumble

Well-known Member
Good to hear. What is it that you feel the Panny does so much better than the Sony?

HB
Just to be clear, I had a bad experience with my A90J from the start due to the considerable outlay and not much improvement over my C9 (in my eyes).

That is well documented in the A90J thread.

And seeing as my A90J was returned as faulty to RS at the beginning of November, I may well have just been unlucky and received a bad/faulty example at launch in April. But, my fingers have been burnt and I didn't want like for like as a replacement.

I say all that because I'm familiar with most of the lads in the A90J thread, most of which are happy.

The way I feel about the JZ2000 in comparison is night and day.

Since first turning it on, I headed straight to the filmmaker mode, disabled the light sensor and upped the luminance level from the default of 30 to 50 (after three days of experimenting between 45 and 50) to suit our living room and haven't had the need nor inclination to tinker since.

The picture quality is colour accurate, it is picture accurate and I can see where the money's gone, which relieves me of my guilt.

It just works. And when watching film, I can see the improvement I wanted over my C9.
 

Barney Gumble

Well-known Member
Panasonic on board apps match frame rates, as do LG.

Android TVs don't match Frames right now but I heard Android 12 will
Thank you for that confirmation. I haven't noticed any frame skipping or anything untoward that's made me feel that I need to purchase a dedicated streamer.

Besides, there is no one streamer to rule them all.
 

Barney Gumble

Well-known Member
Does anyone know how to bring up such information such as the output on apps?

The 'i' button on the remote either does nothing or gives very little information.
 

yourboylollipop

Active Member
Does anyone know how to bring up such information such as the output on apps?

The 'i' button on the remote either does nothing or gives very little information.

Netflix and YouTube have their information pages on their apps (I think it’s on the account page )- I’ll try have a look in a bit as im away from my tv atm
 

clived

Active Member
Had anyone got ARC working reliably with an Oppo 205? I’m familiar with troublesome handshaking issues in general with ARC of course, but having turned off eARC I’ve got it to connect and work once but can’t get it to do it again. Not an issue as I’m using optical into my AVR but I’d like the option of using ARC. The Oppo says it’s connected and it go ahead and choose the input I want, but when I then go to switch into home cinema sound mode on the TV it tells me to check connections or settings. It isn’t the cable - it’s latest spec and it has worked with ARC elsewhere (and here once!).
 

Jules Tohpipi

Well-known Member
I didn't know that. So, even more reason not to use third party hardware.
There's a lot you're overlooking and unaware of about the Firestick, let alone Apple TV that you have such a mis-informed chip on your shoulder about. Could you back off the multiple empty assertions that are polluting this thread please.
 

Barney Gumble

Well-known Member
There's a lot you're overlooking and unaware of about the Firestick, let alone Apple TV that you have such a mis-informed chip on your shoulder about. Could you back off the multiple empty assertions that are polluting this thread please.
Get over yourself.

No, in short.
 

stephentw

Active Member
Had anyone got ARC working reliably with an Oppo 205? I’m familiar with troublesome handshaking issues in general with ARC of course, but having turned off eARC I’ve got it to connect and work once but can’t get it to do it again. Not an issue as I’m using optical into my AVR but I’d like the option of using ARC. The Oppo says it’s connected and it go ahead and choose the input I want, but when I then go to switch into home cinema sound mode on the TV it tells me to check connections or settings. It isn’t the cable - it’s latest spec and it has worked with ARC elsewhere (and here once!).
I've been having problems with eARC too. What AVR do you have? Are you trying to pass sound from your Oppo through eARC to your AVR?
 

jed1982

Standard Member
My picture that had the posterisation seems to have improved a lot now the TV has had some hours on it and I have switched my sky q box to 1080i and let the TV do the up scaling for lower source material. Just a quick question about picture settings I am currently using filmmaker mode with the luminance on 50 as I found 30 to be a bit dark, are these the best seeing for the TV in general or should I be looking do change anything else.
 

clived

Active Member
I’m trying to use the 205 as the ARC receiver (which it can be) and output over 5.1 analogue into my ancient AVC-A1SR
 

yourboylollipop

Active Member
My picture that had the posterisation seems to have improved a lot now the TV has had some hours on it and I have switched my sky q box to 1080i and let the TV do the up scaling for lower source material. Just a quick question about picture settings I am currently using filmmaker mode with the luminance on 50 as I found 30 to be a bit dark, are these the best seeing for the TV in general or should I be looking do change anything else.

Maybe someone else can give a better answer then me - but I’d advise against using Filmmaker mode for sky box content ,sdr content and low budget HD content . I also wouldn’t put the brightness on max 50 for sky box content due to lots of static elements .

For higher grade HD content , hdr and Dolby I think 50 is fine though if 40-45 doesn’t seem too dim to you id suggest going with that (lower burn in risk , slightly more accurate ).

If your viewing environment doesn’t have a significant amount of light , I’d recommend turning off the ambient light sensor
 

jed1982

Standard Member
Maybe someone else can give a better answer then me - but I’d advise against using Filmmaker mode for sky box content ,sdr content and low budget HD content . I also wouldn’t put the brightness on max 50 for sky box content due to lots of static elements .

For higher grade HD content , hdr and Dolby I think 50 is fine though if 40-45 doesn’t seem too dim to you id suggest going with that (lower burn in risk , slightly more accurate ).

If your viewing environment doesn’t have a significant amount of light , I’d recommend turning off the ambient light sensor
what picture setting would you use for sky q content as I thought film maker mode was most accurate for all content.
 

yourboylollipop

Active Member
what picture setting would you use for sky q content as I thought film maker mode was most accurate for all content.

Ah okay sorry I misunderstood .


If you value accuracy then use filmmaker mode even on sky content .

If you just want looks best , might be worth trying something else .

One of the weaknesses of accuracy means if content is bad , then you’ll be seeing the flaws in the content too . For me it wasn’t something I could adjust to but some people value that ‘so accurate you can see the flaws’

In terms of individual settings , I’m sure you can find someone else with a better answer. There was a comment thst had a good outline of settings - I bookmarked the comment but can no longer find it . Should be a few pages back on this thread
 

Doctor Bravestone

Well-known Member
Hi there folks!

Wanted to introduce myself as I will soon be joining you lot as another owner of a 65JZ2000. I've been the owner of an A90J since launch earlier this year but it's developed a fault and after the replacement unit suffered the same issue, I am moving to the Panasonic in a hope to put the issues to bed!

I am hopeful someone can point me in the direction of some initial settings... it's been a long time since I owned a Panasonic (9 years!) so I would very much appreciate a place to start for accurate settings out of the box. The picture geek in me is particularly looking forward to calibrating below 5% stimulus (one of my longstanding bugbears with Sony OLEDs!).

Look forward to learning from you all. :)

P.S. @Barney Gumble, glad to see you finally got the upgrade you longed for!
 

Barney Gumble

Well-known Member
Hi there folks!

Wanted to introduce myself as I will soon be joining you lot as another owner of a 65JZ2000. I've been the owner of an A90J since launch earlier this year but it's developed a fault and after the replacement unit suffered the same issue, I am moving to the Panasonic in a hope to put the issues to bed!

I am hopeful someone can point me in the direction of some initial settings... it's been a long time since I owned a Panasonic (9 years!) so I would very much appreciate a place to start for accurate settings out of the box. The picture geek in me is particularly looking forward to calibrating below 5% stimulus (one of my longstanding bugbears with Sony OLEDs!).

Look forward to learning from you all. :)

P.S. @Barney Gumble, glad to see you finally got the upgrade you longed for!
It's sad in a way to have to welcome you to the thread @Doctor Bravestone but, welcome you are and it's great to make contact again.

I can only tell you from my brief use of the JZ2000, I am impressed and so much happier. I've been careful not to trash the A90J as I know plenty of the other lads are happy with theirs.

Personally, I've been using the Filmmaker mode preset and DV Dark.
 

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