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Panasonic EX750 Owners Thread

Cridem

Member
Hi, sorry, maybe already discussed here...
How can be installed apps like HBO Go or Rakuten TV, not available on Firefox platform?
There is any chance via USB or internet? Or maybe an update of system?
 

repoman

Well-known Member
Thanks for the reply, Ivan.

Bully, that's interesting. I have the 50 version and I'm not 100% sold on it either. I bought it for 3D support but I'm less and less interested in that as most films just use it for a bit of depth and not really any good popping out effects. I don't have issues with the viewing angles but I'm not too sold on the picture quality. That said, I need to give Ivan's settings a go this week.

I do like the fast response times though as I use it a lot for gaming but I find that games that use HDR look a little washed out. I was playing the new Ghost Recon (on PS4 Pro) and it looked foggy a lot of the time.

Also the rubbish app selection and lack of Alexa integration are an issue for me.

I don't want to invest in a new telly yet but I feel like I might do this year. Scared of burn in on an OLED though because I game a lot and so I can imagine HUD items burning in.
 

Cowan86

Active Member
Ivan do you have to use your settings in custom? I can i later them in dynamic mode? Do your settings improve the hdr picture? Thanks for your patience.
 
Ivan do you have to use your settings in custom? I can i later them in dynamic mode? Do your settings improve the hdr picture? Thanks for your patience.
Hi. You can use the settings in True Cinema then save them also to Custom. However, they don't look the same in custom.
But you can have the settings saved there as a backup to reimport them to TC as you like.
You cannot save any advanced settings for normal or dynamic mode, only use the preset and change things on the main ui. So you cannot do any greyscale changes or gamma changes or colour changes. On my set, normal and dynamic are far too blue, so never have them engaged.
My settings are quite accurate on my tv according to the calibration software. However, I'm working on a new set of settings.
Why? By raising the gamma to the proper levels, it amplifies the errors in the 0-10% greyscale and therefore green is over exaggerated.
I think Panasonic's default gamma settings are deliberately much lower at the bottom end to hide that.
My new settings will be just using default gamma and default colour - because the colour calibration always creates visible artefacts, no matter how good the numbers may be.
HDR is a real issue. If you use my settings, then some discs will look great and others won't. I'm tending towards just using default greayscale, tweaked at the 10% white balance to +2, 0, -32. to get rid of the blue.
 

Cowan86

Active Member
Hi. You can use the settings in True Cinema then save them also to Custom. However, they don't look the same in custom.
But you can have the settings saved there as a backup to reimport them to TC as you like.
You cannot save any advanced settings for normal or dynamic mode, only use the preset and change things on the main ui. So you cannot do any greyscale changes or gamma changes or colour changes. On my set, normal and dynamic are far too blue, so never have them engaged.
My settings are quite accurate on my tv according to the calibration software. However, I'm working on a new set of settings.
Why? By raising the gamma to the proper levels, it amplifies the errors in the 0-10% greyscale and therefore green is over exaggerated.
I think Panasonic's default gamma settings are deliberately much lower at the bottom end to hide that.
My new settings will be just using default gamma and default colour - because the colour calibration always creates visible artefacts, no matter how good the numbers may be.
HDR is a real issue. If you use my settings, then some discs will look great and others won't. I'm tending towards just using default greayscale, tweaked at the 10% white balance to +2, 0, -32. to get rid of the blue.
thanks so go into true cinema and start using your settings, which page on this thread are your latest?when using hdr will your settings still be used in true cinema mode? Also when it says dynamic range remaster it only works on sky q and no other sources for some reason. Would you say this tv is poor compared to new models? I was half tempted to get a mid range Sony led tv.
 
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Does hdr in true cinema get bright looks dull compared to other modes.
HDR isn't supposed to be bright per se. It's supposed to represent a wider dynamic range. Occasionally it's less bright than the bluray counterparts, but usually with much brighter scenes and highlights.
In True Cinema it's as bright as it should be all the way up to 500 nits. Should look about the same on all hdr tvs.
If you want it brighter, engage the HDR brightness enhancer.
You may be used to dynamic mode, which is a lot brighter than intended by the director.
I'll post my new settings after this.
 
EX750b 65 inch model calibration settings.

Completely new approach.

When all levels are calibrated as per standards, the gamma is raised at the low end and reveals and exaggerates the green errors inherent in the tv. Panasonic’s default gamma settings seem to be very low in the 0-20% area so as to hide this anomaly. I’m going with that and have done 2 cals. One for daytime at around 120 nits, and one for nighttime dark room at 100 nits.

Gamma at default 2.5 is close to actual 2.4 with a darker low end, so I’m going with that. And keeping default colour, as colour errors may be minimal when measured after calibration, the defaults seem more natural overall.


HD SETTINGS – tv, bluray etc. (also for sd tv)

Viewing mode= True Cinema

Backlight= 20

Contrast = 90

Brightness = 0

Colour = 50

Tint = 0

Sharpness = 0

Colour Temp= Warm 2

Vivid Colour= Off

Colour Remaster = Off

Adaptive Backlighting = Mid

Noise Reduction = off

MPEG Reduction = Off

Resolution remaster= Off

Dynamic Range Remaster = off

Intelligent Frame Creation= Off

Clear Motion= Off





OPTIONS

Film Cadence Mode = Off/Auto

EOTF = Auto



SCREEN SETTINGS

16:9 Overscan = Off




ADVANCED SETTINGS

Contrast = Off

Colour Gamut = REC 709

Gamma = 2.5



WHITE BALANCE

R-Gain = 0

G-Gain = -4

B-Gain = +6

R-Cutoff = -1

G-Cutoff = 0

B-Cutoff = -5



More Detailed Adjustment (green always at 0 except at 10ire)

10 IRE

R-Gain = +5

G-Gain= 0

B-Gain = -27



20 IRE

R-Gain = +1

B-Gain = -17



30 IRE

R-Gain = -1
B-Gain = 0



40 IRE

R-Gain = -2

B-Gain = -2



50 IRE

R-Gain = -3

B-Gain = 0



60 IRE

R-Gain = -6

B-Gain = 0



70 IRE

R-Gain = +2

B-Gain = +5



80 IRE

R-Gain = -5

B-Gain = -5



90 IRE

R-Gain = -2

Gain = = +1



100 IRE

R-Gain = -2

B-Gain = -32



GAMMA 2.5

More Detailed Adjustment



10 IRE = 0



20 IRE = 0



30 IRE = -2



40 IRE = -5



50 IRE = -4



60 IRE = -2



70 IRE = +3



80 IRE = -2



90 IRE = -1



100 IRE = 0



COLOUR ADJUSTMENT

None – all at 0



3D

Same as for SD/HD but with Backlight at 40 (or as up as you like depending on taste but this setting does not increase brightness of the image much)

Contrast 90-92 depending on taste.

ABC at Mid can create some problems with fluctuating brightness, in which case leave at Min.



HDR SETTINGS

I’ve had numerous settings for HDR. Replicating the HD greyscale seems to work well for lots of discs. But overall, it seems to be best just to leave at pretty much default and live with a slightly altered white point. Sharpness to 0.

To eliminate the blue at 10% white balance: r+2, g0, b-32

Depending on source, picture can be overly green, face tones sickly or green tinged, and certain areas banding of green and red occurs, especially on yellowy or gold areas. Just seems to be a fault of this tv. In such circumstances, 2020 remaster eliminates these anomalies, but alters other colours' hues. It's, again, about compromise.

My bluray is a ub820 set for basic luminance tv. HDR Optimizer is ON. This means not having to adjust contrast per disc, and is highly recommended for getting a better HDR experience for discs mastered at above 1000 nits. It is setup to give 12bit colour at 444 in 4k direct mode. (Optimizer OFF for discs at 1000 nits is also ok as the tv tone maps 1000 nits. HDR10+ sets the output to 1000 nits also).

On my older ub900, also setup to give 12bit colour at 444 in 4k direct mode.
I have HDR Range adjusted on the player rather than lower the tv’s contrast to prevent some movies clipping. (-9 stops clipping at 4000 nits and -3 at 2000 nits; default 0 clips at just over 1000 nits, but depending on source I toggle between these 3 as some HDR is a lot brighter and clippier than others).


These settings can be input into Cinema Mode and Custom and will look exactly the same.

However, Custom’s brightness is different as Backlight is set at a lower level in HD (for equivalent light of True Cinema, Custom needs to be at around 39).



In HDR Custom will change considerably if the Adaptive Backlight is changed to mid or max. Mid in Custom does not appear to moderate the backlight – instead it boosts the mid luminance, so can make some things look odd. You may prefer the extra brightness afforded by the Custom mode set to Mid Adaptive Backlight for some movies. High contrast pictures like Aquaman, however, are just too contrasty at this setting compared to Min backlight control or min/mid in True Cinema.


Nighttime HD mode:

Viewing mode= Cinema

Backlight= 11

Contrast = 90

Brightness = 0

Colour = 50

Tint = 0

Sharpness = 0

Colour Temp= Warm 2

Vivid Colour= Off

Colour Remaster = Off

Adaptive Backlighting = Min

Noise Reduction = off

MPEG Reduction = Off

Resolution remaster= Off

Dynamic Range Remaster = off

Intelligent Frame Creation= Off

Clear Motion= Off





OPTIONS



Film Cadence Mode = Off/Auto

EOTF = Auto





SCREEN SETTINGS

16:9 Overscan = Off





ADVANCED SETTINGS

Contrast = Off

Colour Gamut = REC 709

Gamma = 2.5



WHITE BALANCE

R-Gain = 0

G-Gain = -4

B-Gain = +6

R-Cutoff = -1

G-Cutoff = 0

B-Cutoff = -5



More Detailed Adjustment (green always at 0 except at 10ire)

10 IRE

R-Gain = +5

G-Gain= 0

B-Gain = -27



20 IRE

R-Gain = +2

B-Gain = -15



30 IRE

R-Gain =0

B-Gain = 0



40 IRE

R-Gain = -2

B-Gain = -1



50 IRE

R-Gain = -3

B-Gain = +2



60 IRE

R-Gain = -3


B-Gain = +3



70 IRE

R-Gain = +1

B-Gain = +4



80 IRE

R-Gain = -1

B-Gain = +5



90 IRE

R-Gain = -1

Gain = = -1



100 IRE

R-Gain = +1

B-Gain = -10



GAMMA 2.5

More Detailed Adjustment



10 IRE = 0



20 IRE = 0



30 IRE = 4



40 IRE = -6



50 IRE = -6



60 IRE = -3



70 IRE = +3



80 IRE = -2



90 IRE = 0



100 IRE = +1



COLOUR ADJUSTMENT

None all at 0
 
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thanks so go into true cinema and start using your settings, which page on this thread are your latest?when using hdr will your settings still be used in true cinema mode? Also when it says dynamic range remaster it only works on sky q and no other sources for some reason. Would you say this tv is poor compared to new models? I was half tempted to get a mid range Sony led tv.
Use the new one on the next page.
You don't need dynamic range remaster.
I don't know about other tvs. I only have this one. My previous one was a plasma.
 

Cowan86

Active Member
Thanks again colour detail looks more natural, if I make the backlight brighter and change the colour temperature slightly will this knock the colour out of sync? Slightly prefer colour temp to be no more than warm 1 looks a tad yellow. Also do you have to change the settings on every hdmi input? I noticed my settings on hdmi 1 was different to 3.
 
Thanks again colour detail looks more natural, if I make the backlight brighter and change the colour temperature slightly will this knock the colour out of sync? Slightly prefer colour temp to be no more than warm 1 looks a tad yellow. Also do you have to change the settings on every hdmi input? I noticed my settings on hdmi 1 was different to 3.
The colours will be affected by alterations in colour temp but shouldn't be too affected by backlight. Eg. by making the picture cooler, the reds will be more purple.
You should try the settings as is for a few days because 1. this tv takes time to bed in adjustments, usually 3 days to a week if you're coming from default; and b. the brain adjusts to greyscale temperature. If you're used to cool, warm will look very pink/red, and vice versa. But all the world (apart from Japan) uses d65 as the temperature of white, which is where abouts your set should be with these settings. Warm1 is bluer than standards, but still may look better to you. But warm2 might look a lot better later when your brain has readjusted to it.
As for the ports - use 'copy adjustments' to copy your settings from the calibrated port to the others, and you can save a backup of it in Custom too. Or you can save it to individual ports, dvb tuner, VOD etc separately using the same interface.
 
Have now tweaked above calibration for daytime and nighttime settings to line up the gamma to 2.4 accurately, whilst leaving 10 and 20% as set by Panasonic. This has improved the picture, mostly noticeable is facial highlights are less bright and more natural now.
Slight revision therefore to the white balance detailed adjustments also as even small gamma adjustments do effect white balance slightly.
Please update your Gamma and White Balance More Detailed Adjustments for day (True Cinema) and Night (Cinema) if you are using my most recent settings in post 3513.
 

ArcticWolf710

Active Member
Have now tweaked above calibration for daytime and nighttime settings to line up the gamma to 2.4 accurately, whilst leaving 10 and 20% as set by Panasonic. This has improved the picture, mostly noticeable is facial highlights are less bright and more natural now.
Slight revision therefore to the white balance detailed adjustments also as even small gamma adjustments do effect white balance slightly.
Please update your Gamma and White Balance More Detailed Adjustments for day (True Cinema) and Night (Cinema) if you are using my most recent settings in post 3513.
It might help others if you go back & edit your original posts accordingly mate ;). (Or, repost a fully updated set.). Your info is getting a bit spread out now & some may miss your later additions ;).
 
It might help others if you go back & edit your original posts accordingly mate ;). (Or, repost a fully updated set.). Your info is getting a bit spread out now & some may miss your later additions ;).
Yeah I know :0)
The original posts? You mean the other calibrations. Well, they're just different variations on a theme basically - folks are free to try them as they wish. It's kind of up to others to find the latest version if they want it too. Or they could always just ask.
And I have just posted a fully updated set. It's just a few posts above this one.
 
The reason there are so many calibrations is the tv is extremely quirky. You can do a great set of numbers, watch it for weeks and only notice little aberrations, which usually require a long time to figure out and tweak.
Then there's the lack of uniformity of the screen. The centre of mine differs massively (when measured) from the outsides and it's impossible to tell which area is most accurate.
Furthermore, the Xrite software reads a different white point from Chromapure.
But basically, the tv is a bitch.
The colour error in the white balance at the low end means that just 1 point in the detailed adjustments can mean the difference between something looking right and something being shaded blue or green.
I'm pretty sure that a decent OLED would need just one calibration and be done with it.
Please, nobody think I'm giving definitive calibrations, and that I'm any kind of expert. Even after a couple of years playing with this tv I'm learning new things and new quirks about it. An obsessive amateur is what I am and just sharing the results with you here. So please try them or ignore them.
 

ArcticWolf710

Active Member
The reason there are so many calibrations is the tv is extremely quirky. You can do a great set of numbers, watch it for weeks and only notice little aberrations, which usually require a long time to figure out and tweak.
Then there's the lack of uniformity of the screen. The centre of mine differs massively (when measured) from the outsides and it's impossible to tell which area is most accurate.
Furthermore, the Xrite software reads a different white point from Chromapure.
But basically, the tv is a bitch.
The colour error in the white balance at the low end means that just 1 point in the detailed adjustments can mean the difference between something looking right and something being shaded blue or green.
I'm pretty sure that a decent OLED would need just one calibration and be done with it.
Please, nobody think I'm giving definitive calibrations, and that I'm any kind of expert. Even after a couple of years playing with this tv I'm learning new things and new quirks about it. An obsessive amateur is what I am and just sharing the results with you here. So please try them or ignore them.
You're starting to build a picture in my head of my dog chasing its own tail hehe ;) :) ;)!!

You'd probably be a whole lot happier if you just got it to a "reasonable" point & then just enjoyed it for what it is lol :).

I just have the 50 version. I've made a few minor tweaks here & there along the way. Otherwise, the panel has held up very well from a hell of a lot of use for its age but I haven't needed to make constant changes. Much of it is set as it is when I first configured it. It probably helps that my TV is always in a "darkened" room so I also don't need to keep adjusting for light room/dark room as well. Constant changes from light/dark/light/dark may be playing games with your mind about the colouring too.

Calibrate it once for your required conditions & let it be or it'll never end bud ;)!! You'll end up spending more time chasing your own tail than you ever will actually enjoying it.
 
You're starting to build a picture in my head of my dog chasing its own tail hehe ;) :) ;)!!

You'd probably be a whole lot happier if you just got it to a "reasonable" point & then just enjoyed it for what it is lol :).

I just have the 50 version. I've made a few minor tweaks here & there along the way. Otherwise, the panel has held up very well from a hell of a lot of use for its age but I haven't needed to make constant changes. Much of it is set as it is when I first configured it. It probably helps that my TV is always in a "darkened" room so I also don't need to keep adjusting for light room/dark room as well. Constant changes from light/dark/light/dark may be playing games with your mind about the colouring too.

Calibrate it once for your required conditions & let it be or it'll never end bud ;)!! You'll end up spending more time chasing your own tail than you ever will actually enjoying it.
Oh yes, I know. And you're not the first to say it.
The 50 inch has a different panel and doesn't suffer the same issues as the 65.
I'm actually measuring the colour differences, so it aint in my head.
 

Manax

Novice Member
IvanFraser, could you please post screenshot of your tv with the observed anomalies for comparison purposes?

Thank you very much in advance.
 
IvanFraser, could you please post screenshot of your tv with the observed anomalies for comparison purposes?

Thank you very much in advance.
Will do.
Will post uncalibrated shot and calibrated one, soon as I figure out how to upload a screenshot :)
 

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