Panasonic DP-UB9000 4K Blu-ray Player Review & Comments

While I'm having my buzz for the new player killed by the slowest banking transfer in history ( 5days and counting :O) ) this will mostly replace an Oppo 203 for UHD duties all being well , the Oppo will do multiregion BDs and Dvd-As . Has anyone come across a Region Free solution for the 9000 ????

~M~

P.S. Memo to self , should've bought a bloody iPhone ;O)
 
Has anyone come across a Region Free solution for the 9000 ????

There's a firmware available. I tried to post a link to the site but it seems like the site is blacklisted on this board...

Enhanced firmware version: 1.47A

Supported geographic areas:

Australia, Europe, New Zealand, North America, United Kingdom

Supported device models:

DP-UB420EB/EG/GN/PC
DP-UB424EG
DP-UB820EB/EF/EG/GN/P/PC
DP-UB824EG
DP-UB9000EB/EG/GN/P/PC
DP-UB9004EG

Features:
  • Multi-Region playback for DVD and Blu-ray
  • Country code selection
  • DVD UOP (User operation prohibition) deactivation
  • Blu-ray PUO (Protected user operation) deactivation
  • Cinavia™ free operation
  • PAL support for non-PAL models
  • Stock firmware feature upgrad
 
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There's a firmware available. I tried to post a link to the site but it seems like the site is blacklisted on this board...

Enhanced firmware version: 1.47A

Supported geographic areas:

Australia, Europe, New Zealand, North America, United Kingdom

Supported device models:

DP-UB420EB/EG/GN/PC
DP-UB424EG
DP-UB820EB/EF/EG/GN/P/PC
DP-UB824EG
DP-UB9000EB/EG/GN/P/PC
DP-UB9004EG

Features:
  • Multi-Region playback for DVD and Blu-ray
  • Country code selection
  • DVD UOP (User operation prohibition) deactivation
  • Blu-ray PUO (Protected user operation) deactivation
  • Cinavia™ free operation
  • PAL support for non-PAL models
  • Stock firmware feature upgrad

I have this for my ub700. But not yet for my ub9000. I would wait 18-24 months before going this path. By then your pana should been sufficiently updated and stable (the provider do updates though, for a cost). In the meantime you could try the different tricks to handle region A discs. Most Criterion works this way, search internet for how to. All will not work, for that you need the alternative firmware. I do hope for a better alternative, like the Oppo/Cambridge chip.
 
I have this for my ub700. But not yet for my ub9000. I would wait 18-24 months before going this path. By then your pana should been sufficiently updated and stable (the provider do updates though, for a cost). In the meantime you could try the different tricks to handle region A discs. Most Criterion works this way, search internet for how to. All will not work, for that you need the alternative firmware. I do hope for a better alternative, like the Oppo/Cambridge chip.

If Panasonic needed two years to get their Blu-ray players stable, nobody should buy such crap, not even you!
 
If Panasonic needed two years to get their Blu-ray players stable, nobody should buy such crap, not even you!
Nobody makes players these days whos finished when they are released, some almost finished when they get released by a new model.
 
Funny, the other night i connected the Xbox to the OPPO via the HDMI in, and to my big surprice the sound changed quite a bit depending what HDMI cable i used, cant tell you why, it just did, so guess its not much different than digital tranfer always been with sound, and i cant say if its the HDMI or just the rest of the newer recivers who just sounds fairly bad in comparison to older gear, or just using SPDIF instead. Think this is a toppic for a different thread.
Ohh Nooo - here we go again with the cable 'thing'!! This happened with Hi-Fi years ago, and it was 'proved' by double blind listening tests that cables, particularly speaker cables, when 'normal' sensitivity speakers are used = 95% of them, that the cable made no difference whatsoever. The same 'tests' have been done with HDMI, and the results were that expensive HDMI cables made absolutely no difference to sound/picture quality.
 
Ohh Nooo - here we go again with the cable 'thing'!! This happened with Hi-Fi years ago, and it was 'proved' by double blind listening tests that cables, particularly speaker cables, when 'normal' sensitivity speakers are used = 95% of them, that the cable made no difference whatsoever. The same 'tests' have been done with HDMI, and the results were that expensive HDMI cables made absolutely no difference to sound/picture quality.
Its not new that jitter and clocks create variations, i accept that most people cant hear a difference, in general most recivers are so bad that it wont matter if its worse, and impossible hear the difference, who have a good acustic inviroment where you can benefit from a transparent audio system, the good thing seems to be that the cheapest HDMI cables sounds the best.

Ill also admit that its pretty much impossible to find a good transparent speaker these days, as they are all voiced to newer equipment who sounds pretty horible if you could actualy hear it.
Just be happy you cant hear a difference, your lucky enought to not know what your missing.

People who uses room EQ should not worry at all with anything, as there is no saving that mess.
 
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Its not new that jitter and clocks create variations, i accept that most people cant hear a difference, in general most recivers are so bad that it wont matter if its worse, and impossible hear the difference, who have a good acustic inviroment where you can benefit from a transparent audio system, the good thing seems to be that the cheapest HDMI cables sounds the best.

Ill also admit that its pretty much impossible to find a good transparent speaker these days, as they are all voiced to newer equipment who sounds pretty horible if you could actualy hear it.
Just be happy you cant hear a difference, your lucky enought to not know what your missing.

People who uses room EQ should not worry at all with anything, as there is no saving that mess.


It must be hard for you to step down from the know it all throne and give us all of your objective Audio and Video knowledge.:confused::)

You seems to think that everybody else do not know what the real world looks or sounds like..
Is that a wrong conclusion of what you actually tells us with your quoted post here?o_O

What kind of cables, equipment, EQ and prosessing is used to record the transparent music sources you are listening to? How many modern speakers have you tried, And have you actually understood how the human hearing/brain system works when testing blind / not blind etc.?

Have also done some testing with the Chroma Multiburst test picture you have used many times here to warn us about the Panasonic "back door" processing.
(have always looked at back doors as safety hazards in computer programs etc, not some unwanted steps internal in picture processing in a BD player...?)
I do agree with you in some of your findings, not sure how these ting actually correspond to the real world of watching 4K movies and not upscaled DVD and BD test pictures and text documents etc.

If you actually read and understand the purpose of this Chroma Multiburst test picture from the excellent Spears and Munsil HD Benchmark disk, you wold see that your -4 Chroma setting is making a drop in the intensity for the section with the thinnest lines for the highest frequency.

Here is also what Spears and Munsil explain for this pattern on the net.
Chroma Multiburst
This pattern is the equivalent to the Luma Multiburst pattern, but for chroma. Because chroma is upsampled when converting 4:2:0 YCbCr to RGB, in a sense every display scales this pattern, even a native 1080p display. In some cases the player scales the chroma vertically to produce 4:2:2 YCbCr, and then the display scales it horizontally while converting to RGB. Or the player may output RGB, in which case the player is doing the chroma scaling. For players that have different output options over HDMI, you can change them while viewing this pattern and see the differences in how the player and the display handle the chroma channel. The individual sine waves in the center of each burst should look even, with no color shifts or intensity shifts on either side of the peaks. The waves should look smooth and not posterized. If the display is a 720p display, it should be possible for it to show all of the bursts cleanly, though the thinnest lines may look somewhat uneven. If the last burst turns gray, it tells you that the display is scaling the image down in YCbCr, which produces a slightly lower quality image than converting the 1080p signal to RGB and then scaling it to the display resolution.

Here is two examples from my Panasonic ub900 player what the default 0 and -4 settings do to a more correct way of using this pattern.




If you look at how the Chroma Multiburst test picture is built and zoom on to some of the sections and see how the Panasonic scales and adds some noise around the edges, there is some different information in these bars in the trouble areas, so not sure if this is a problem in real life cinema use of these 4K BD players.



Have also noted you are telling us these 4K players from OPPO 203 and all the 4K Panasonics do not scale SD DVD to 4K very well, and you preferes the Xbox 1s. For me that is no problem at all. Stopped using DVD back in 2007, and when using BD and 4K in my setup, i prefer the Panasonic over Xbox 1S. The new tone mapping capabilities in the new 420 820 and 9000 players looks to be a winner for projector use when the projector do not have a good internl HDR tone mapping built in.

I Know you like the less sharp CRT projector in your "most critical setup" (Even modded CRT projectors can not even fully resolve a 1080P source do to their optics) and you do not like the razor sharp projectors of today, that fully resolved 1080p and higher.
My most critical setup is a old 9" CRT projector setup with custum videochain running 1080P 72fps, i sit about 3m from a 2,4m wide screen, and there is just quite a bit of difference in the presentation depending how the digital videochain is handeling.
The 4k OLED is however a good display to study behaviors on differnt patterns to better try understand it.


Here is an old CRT screenshot, it may not be a correct post in a Panasonic DP-UB9000 thread, but when talking about speaker transparency and HDMI cables etc, I think the ones that is not familiar with the CRT picture references here may have a look at typical high end modded CRT projector a standard Sony G90 CRT pictures compared to full HD source files.
Modded 9"Marquee

Standard Sony G90

BD Frame from Sin Sity 2



Projectors that actually can use 4K sources trough these players. with some HDR and a DCI-P3 Colour Gamut much wider than any SD DVD and BD with REC 601 REC 709
Here is another Screenshot example 4K Sony VW1000 vs BD frame vs MArquee (a little small picture file, but illustrates the CRT softness and short comings.)







From many of your postings it looks to me like most of these new 4K UHD disk players is not a good match for your preferences and in your best CRT Home cinema and HiFi systems, but do you think it may be a good match with your 4K Oled TV.
 
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I use the 4K players for the 4K display, wich seems to have less chroma roleoff than ilustrated on the display above.
Wich setting did you find the best compromise between chroma ringing and bandwidth on your setup.?

Panasonic equally found the -4 chroma sharpness setting the best compromise.

Many reviews found that there was a difference in the image on the UB900 vs OPPO 203 due to the chroma handeling, do you see a difference.?

Dear Mr.

Thank you for your e-mail.

In regards to your query I have looked into what could be done with the settings.

It does not seem there would be a way to completely get rid of the ringing while keeping the proper output.

It would rather seem it is a limitation of the processor and you were right about the -4 chroma sharpness as it would seem like the best output is delivered with that.

In regards to a software update I am unsure yet if this would be an issue with the software but there should be a software update coming up at some point and perhaps it will also address this.

Kind Regards,

Customer Service Team
Panasonic UK
 
I use the 4K players for the 4K display, wich seems to have less chroma roleoff than ilustrated on the display above.
Wich setting did you find the best compromise between chroma ringing and bandwidth on your setup.?

In my 4K TV setup the chroma roleoff looked wery good at the 0 default setting and the ringing was not a problem at this setting. -4 looked more like how they explained the "Bad" example on the S&M disk.

Why you think it is important how these 4K players scales SD to 4K i do not understand.
Here is an example of the different in information there is in a a frame capture from Apollo 13 BD compared to DVD




Stridsvognen said:
Many reviews found that there was a difference in the image on the UB900 vs OPPO 203 due to the chroma handeling, do you see a difference.?

Do you have some links to these reviews?

I have not tested these two players against each other, so i do not know. There may be some differences of how these players handle chroma, but I think there can be many other reasons why the image looks different too.

The reason why there is less resolution saved for chroma in our source media, is because our resolution perception of this is not as vital as for the Luma resolution, and is mainly done to get enough space for the movie and reduce the space needed etc. Video and picture shown artificially using the RGB may be perceived differently between different persons too. Some people have 4 different color "sensors" in their eyes.... Your LG Oled TV may also use RGB and white Oled diodes to show pictures, my Samsung Quantum Dot LCD TV uses only RGB.

Customer Service Team Panasonic UK said:
Dear Mr.

Thank you for your e-mail.

In regards to your query I have looked into what could be done with the settings.

It does not seem there would be a way to completely get rid of the ringing while keeping the proper output.

It would rather seem it is a limitation of the processor and you were right about the -4 chroma sharpness as it would seem like the best output is delivered with that.

In regards to a software update I am unsure yet if this would be an issue with the software but there should be a software update coming up at some point and perhaps it will also address this.

Kind Regards,

Customer Service Team
Panasonic UK

I also think it will be a good idea to post your e-mail posted question together with the answer you got from Panasonic.
 
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Its not new that jitter and clocks create variations, i accept that most people cant hear a difference, in general most recivers are so bad that it wont matter if its worse, and impossible hear the difference, who have a good acustic inviroment where you can benefit from a transparent audio system, the good thing seems to be that the cheapest HDMI cables sounds the best.

Ill also admit that its pretty much impossible to find a good transparent speaker these days, as they are all voiced to newer equipment who sounds pretty horible if you could actualy hear it.
Just be happy you cant hear a difference, your lucky enought to not know what your missing.

People who uses room EQ should not worry at all with anything, as there is no saving that mess.
What a condescending reply. You seem to think you are the only person who can hear differences, and who have access to transparent systems/environments! As for your dumb comment of it's almost impossible to find a good transparent speaker 'these days' - is rediculous in the extreme! You're not 'looking' hard enough. I, and probably others on here, would be interested to know what you believe to be a good transparent speaker, and I'd also be very interested to know what equipment you drive these with, as you don't list any of your own equipment here? Transparecy in a system is not just determined by the speaker.
 
What a condescending reply. You seem to think you are the only person who can hear differences, and who have access to transparent systems/environments! As for your dumb comment of it's almost impossible to find a good transparent speaker 'these days' - is rediculous in the extreme! You're not 'looking' hard enough. I, and probably others on here, would be interested to know what you believe to be a good transparent speaker, and I'd also be very interested to know what equipment you drive these with, as you don't list any of your own equipment here? Transparecy in a system is not just determined by the speaker.

As i explained combination of amp speaker acustic, your welcome to come hear my setup, i would love to hear yours.


Dali Grand diva speakers, Dali Gravity amp, VHD Cleartrack speaker cables and VDH MC silver signal cables.

Whats yours

Still think this is a toppic for a different thread, said it before, will say it again, as it ha nothing to do with the player topic.
 
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In my 4K TV setup the chroma roleoff looked wery good at the 0 default setting and the ringing was not a problem at this setting. -4 looked more like how they explained the "Bad" example on the S&M disk.

Try set the chroma to -6, and ull still see slight ringing on the big vertical bars.
The chroma sharpness translates directly to the ringing, with that in mind, you know that without the chroma sharpness boost/ enhancement there is no hight bandwidth chroma passing the processor in the panasonic.
Why would you want a processoor that looses all high frequence bandwidth, and then artificially boost it and get the heavy ringing/ distortion.
Would you not prefer a player that did use a processor who can pass the original chroma content unmolested, so no enhancement is needet.?

Try put another player on ur tv see if you have roleoff on your tv, as that looks to be the case, its a normal processor limitation, and your -4 setting look to be a effect of chroma bandwidth loss in multiple stages. To determine a OPPO 103 on HDMI 2 out, or a 203, and a Xbox will do great, they will pass the Chroma multiburst at a reference level without distortion or bandwidth loss.

Here is how my display handle chroma, notice how the 0 setting is overly bright on the horizontal high frequence, so the -4 setting seems fairly well balanced, specially keeping in mind that most of the chroma ringing / distortion is eliminated.
Last pic is a 4K chroma pattern, with 0 and -4 setting.
Il be happy to trade a bit of chroma to not get the massive ringing, and overshot at the defoult setting
Anyway if you dont see a difference on your setup, no need to worry, this is mostly important for those who like a pure undistorted source signal, and notice the small differences.
IMGP4606.JPG
IMGP4607.JPG
IMGP4608.JPG
IMG_03102018_105714_0.png


OPPO 203 reference.

IMGP4610.JPG
 
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What a condescending reply. You seem to think you are the only person who can hear differences, and who have access to transparent systems/environments! As for your dumb comment of it's almost impossible to find a good transparent speaker 'these days' - is rediculous in the extreme! You're not 'looking' hard enough. I, and probably others on here, would be interested to know what you believe to be a good transparent speaker, and I'd also be very interested to know what equipment you drive these with, as you don't list any of your own equipment here? Transparecy in a system is not just determined by the speaker.

Fully agree with you.

1) Speakers these days are in general far more neutral and transparent than 20 years ago. An example would be B&W kevlar drivers verse there new continuum drivers

2) I'm sure if you look at the £4 to 10K price you find loads of very transparent speakers

3) Clock jitter was an issue that came to light when DVD players are used for the purposes of playing music. Due to the common clock use to supply Sound and Video the sounds digital steam sometimes suffer from Jitter due to a less than ideal clock frequency. This largely went away with Blu-ray due higher clock speeds and better circuits. If this issue worries you, then simply don't use a DVD/Bluray/UHD player for music

4) DAC these day sound for the large part different due to different filter logic rather than better conversion.

The bottom line is the old rule one of buying Hifi/AV kit, "if you can't hear a difference then there isn't a difference".
 
In my 4K TV setup the chroma roleoff looked wery good

Im curious what tv that is, if its a going model you should share in the dedicated thread for that tv, as it clearly have some chroma limitations going on.
The Panasonic player at defoult setting will peak/ overshoot at 0 setting, your tv still have slight roleoff with the 0 setting, and basically none left at the -4 setting, so not a very good monitor for chroma evaluation.

Do you have another tv or maybe a projector you can use instead.?

IMG-8764.jpg
IMGP4607.JPG
 
Im curious what tv that is, if its a going model you should share in the dedicated thread for that tv, as it clearly have some chroma limitations going on.
The Panasonic player at defoult setting will peak/ overshoot at 0 setting, your tv still have slight roleoff with the 0 setting, and basically none left at the -4 setting, so not a very good monitor for chroma evaluation.

Do you have another tv or maybe a projector you can use instead.?

View attachment 1089098 View attachment 1089099

How good or bad mine or your TV is, was not my point here Stridsvognen. My point is that different equipment may need settings, so your -4 recommendation may not be a good idea for everyone...

Have also tested the croma adjustment on the UB900 together with a JVC X7500/RS520 projector, and think they look somewhat similar.
 
How good or bad mine or your TV is, was not my point here Stridsvognen. My point is that different equipment may need settings, so your -4 recommendation may not be a good idea for everyone...

Have also tested the croma adjustment on the UB900 together with a JVC X7500/RS520 projector, and think they look somewhat similar.

Your previous posts seemed to be all about my displays, or is that only interesting if its CRT related.?
I surgest we keep it relevant to the 4K ones whos used with the Panasonic.

Its disapointing that the newer JVC also have issues, JVC projectors used to have very good chroma bandwidth.

What tv is it your using.?

I like players who dont mess up the chroma, where its raw out of the media, not all the Panasonic gimick.

Im just not a fan of the backdoor processing, but i do know more and more people prefer that these days, so it will most likely be preferable to most.

My old Pioneer plasma also had some chroma roleoff, so as you say it went with a -3 setting, however it was the one who slapped me in the face with the Panasonic chroma ringing to start with, The LG C7 just confirmed it was also a issue with UHD content, and it is a nice eveluation display, its kind of tough to recomend settings factoring in all the bad displays, so next time ill add its a recomendation for displays with a good chroma performance. and for displays that dont have it you dont need to spend a lot of energy as ull most likely not be able to see a difference anyway.
 
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Your previous posts seemed to be all about my displays, or is that only interesting if its CRT related.?
Only posted that because you already have posted a picture of your CRT setup and called it "My most critical setup" in a thread that is about a panasonic-dp-ub9000 4K player.??
It was to clear up the fact that even a highly modified 9"CRT projector with a noise free and 2-300Mhz peak performance (all according to you) is not able to show a fully resolved 1080p HD picture..

Stridsvognen said:
I surgest we keep it relevant to the 4K ones whos used with the Panasonic.
All the panasonic players can be set up to send out 1080p-2160p@24-60hz connected to the correct HDMI/HDCP versions, so there shod be possible to use these players on your CRT with HDMI moome card too. Showing a 4K 4:2:0 soure down scaled to 1080p on that setup should give you 1:1 true chroma resolution from the source too...?

Stridsvognen said:
Its disapointing that the newer JVC also have issues, JVC projectors used to have very good chroma bandwidth.
Looks to me that you are jumping the gun here and read my post in a rely biased way. Have you tested these JVC projectors yourself?

Stridsvognen said:
What tv is it your using.
Use different TVs, The posted chroma pictures was from a older Samsung 65"JU8505 TV. How good or bad it shows chroma, might only be some of the smaller weaknesses with that one. It show HDR content connected to the Samsung UBD-K8500 player rather well. (in a room with ambient light) The HDR from Xbox 1S looks more SDR, event set up correctly (it setts the TV to HDR mode), the Panasonic UB900 looks very good in comparison. Is there some hidden SDR to HDR menues in the Xbox 1S?

Stridsvognen said:
I like players who dont mess up the chroma, where its raw out of the media, not all the Panasonic gimick.
The chroma resolution from 4:2:0 source needs to be upscaled somewhere, so a player that is able be setup to send out the native 4:2:0 is a good thing if there is a better scaler in the video chain. Some TVs do a new round of "front door" processing too when it get an already up converted signal.

Stridsvognen said:
Im just not a fan of the backdoor processing, but i do know more and more people prefer that these days, so it will most likely be preferable to most.

Looks to me like the AV equipment manufacturers tries to make the connection and setups as easy they can for the normal users, and that is maybe some of the problem with the extra unwanted processing .
Do think most AV entusiast and normal people see exactly the same thing as you do when using the test pictures that show those Chroma scaling effects, or when they know what errors to look fore..... "The quick brown fox" test picture seems to bee a nice evaluation picture often used for this too. To actually see these chroma errors watching real movie content at normal distance with the fully resolved Luma part of the picture etc, that is in my opinion something quite different.

Stridsvognen said:
My old Pioneer plasma also had some chroma roleoff, so as you say it went with a -3 setting, however it was the one who slapped me in the face with the Panasonic chroma ringing to start with, The LG C7 just confirmed it was also a issue with UHD content, and it is a nice eveluation display, its kind of tough to recomend settings factoring in all the bad displays, so next time ill add its a recomendation for displays with a good chroma performance. and for displays that dont have it you dont need to spend a lot of energy as ull most likely not be able to see a difference anyway.

How can you bee sure its not your C7 that is adding something and your plasma is the correct one setting up the panasonic chroma sharpness?
Your evaluation OLED C7 display use white pixels together with the RGB (to add more light and makes the blue pixels last longer etc,) You don't think there is a lot of internal processing going on there too? If this picture is from your OLED, the blue lines seems to be full of brigter white pixles...
imgp4607-jpg.1089099

If you not already have done so, recommend you turn on the chip shaking anti-aliasing filter in your K-3 camera when taking these pictures of your OLED screen to reduce the Moiré pattern effects.

If we must have true "4:4:4" with no unwanted processing at all, we better throw away the CRT and all digital equipment and go all inn for 35mm - 70mm analog film and mechanical working film projectors instead.... they are a bit noisy to have in a home cinema dough, so i think i prefer the Panasonic UB 820 or UB9000 when i get one....
 
Knowing the chroma is all about knowing your devices, i know the C7 do well as it shows a reference chroma multiburst on all the players that have a reference chroma bandwidth.

OPPO 83, OPPO 103D, OPPO 203. Xbox One S.

The brown fox test is a upsampling test pattern to evaluate 4:4:4 upsampling, wich is a different chroma parameter not really compatable with the bandwidth issue.
The Xbox dont have any HDR to SDR adjustments.

Try post the -4 setting on the panasonic on each of your displays, and see if you can find one that matches mine, and preferable compare it to a nr of other players who dont suffer from the chroma limitations of the Panasonic, and you will get a better understanding of whats what.
Its obvious that the panasonic have serious chroma issues, no other player i seen have chroma ringing, none. and trying to remove it with the sharpnass setting leaves no hight bandwidth chroma left, -4 leaves what apears a very good chroma bandwidth, but is somewhat artificialy made, and there is still a slight ringing left, but the end result is in my opinion much closer to the reference players, and more pleasing to watch, removes some of that agressive look the panasonic have, and when douing HD to UHD upscaling the -1 and -2 luma sharpness setting also help to reduce the luma ringing when scaling.
It then becomes a player i dont mind using, specially for 4K HDR content, as the tonemapping is unike on these new models, whats your take on the new tonemapping.?

You can help confirm or change the recommendet chroma setting on the panasonic players by posting some test from various displays and players.
 
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Does anyone know what settings are needed to get the 'full' 7.1 mixdown from a Dolby Atmos track on ub-9000 ?? My Playback Info reads : Dolby-True 5.1 output as 7.1 on HDMI Audio Output which implies that it is receiving only a 5.1 signal and then reformatting it to 7.1 ( the number of channels in my system ) .

Thx

~M~
 
Does anyone know what settings are needed to get the 'full' 7.1 mixdown from a Dolby Atmos track on ub-9000 ?? My Playback Info reads : Dolby-True 5.1 output as 7.1 on HDMI Audio Output which implies that it is receiving only a 5.1 signal and then reformatting it to 7.1 ( the number of channels in my system ) .

Thx

~M~
Are you sure you are playing an atmos track? Not all discs default to atmos.
Usually the Panasonics will display True HD 7.1 on HDMI playback info for atmos. To get what you say would imply a 5.1 track being output as 7.1 via the 7.1 ch audio reformatting setting.

7.1ch Audio Reformatting
Surround sound with 6.1ch or less is automatically expanded and played back at 7.1ch.
≥ If “Off” is selected, sound is played over the original number of channels. (Note that in the
case of 6.1ch audio, playback will be at 5.1ch.)
≥ Audio reformatting is enabled in the following cases:
– When you have selected “PCM” in “Digital Audio Output”.
– When the audio is Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD or LPCM.
– BD-Video playback

Only other setting which can impact the soundtrack being output is secondary audio which needs to be off.
 
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Thanks for that . It must have been the last firmware update reset the secondary audio to On and this limited the channel count to 5.1 . With this set to Off the TrueHD and Audio Output channel counts are both 7.1 . This is all relevant to me as my processor reformats 5.1 to the available 7.1 channels so no need to do it in the player.

Cheers

M
 
Does this player work with Sonys Dolby Vision profile?
 

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