Panasonic DMR E55 Keeps Switching Off

Senrap

Active Member
I'm sorry if there has been a thread for this but I couldn't find one.

After switching on, I press a button on the remote and the Panny switches off, goes into self check and then restarts. Also I can be in the middle of recording and the machine switches off.

If I turn off the power it sorts out the problem for a short time and then starts all over again.

Any ideas please?
 

Fred Smith

Well-known Member

Senrap

Active Member
Thanks for that Fred.

I did see the postings on the E85. I guess the problem is more or less the same. I'm not sure whether it is worth paying to have it fixed.

I'll study the E85 thread more carefully and decide what I should do.
 

idm67

Standard Member
I have exactly the same problem now with my E55..started doing it this week..stopping and starting during a timer recording and switching off doing a self check etc. Did you find any more info out at all?? I was wondering if the same cure might be the components for the power supply board mentioned on the E85 thread.
 

Senrap

Active Member
Well idm67, as I am incapable of doing any sort of repairs myself and didn't feel it was worth spending money on having it repaired professionally, I ended up buying a Panasonic DMREZ25. So far I am very happy with it and it is somewhat more sophisticated and also has Freeview.

I can only hope it lasts longer!
 
T

timeshock!

Guest
My DMR e55 just went off during the night, pull the power supply out and it comes on for 20 mins then completely shuts down again, no clock no stand-by, two months out of guarantee, anybody know what to do?
 

JayCee

Distinguished Member
My DMR e55 just went off during the night, pull the power supply out and it comes on for 20 mins then completely shuts down again, no clock no stand-by, two months out of guarantee, anybody know what to do?
This is turning out to be a common fault on this model and it is usually caused by a faulty voltage regulator IC in the power supply.
You're looking at about an hours labour and roughly £20 for the parts.
 

magicjohn

Novice Member
My 2 year old DMR E55 Keeps switching off now! - Exactly the same problems as described at the beginning of this post! - Does anyone know how to fix it? With service charges running at around £40 an hour, I'm tempted to bu a DMR-EZ25EB-S as a replacement - but if it's just a case of replacing the voltage regulator, I'll have a go myself! (If it never works again - I've lost nothing!) (If it is a VR problem, anyone know it's number?)
 

Senrap

Active Member
Magicjohn if you do decide to try to repair it yourself and succeed and think someone totally electronically challenged could also do it, please let me know because I would like to get my DMRE 55 going again if i can.
Good luck.
 

plonky

Novice Member
Same problem here. Self Check->Read Disc->Restart->Self check....

I was about to contact Richer Sounds asking them to sort it even though I have had it just under 2 years
 

Hal_loe

Novice Member
Yes, I know what it is...I change them daily in my job...I just thought it was a strange way of asking the question.
What rather than the normal Volt Reg abbreviation.

The normal couldn't be bothered to read the DMR-E85H thread I expect.
 

magicjohn

Novice Member
Magicjohn if you do decide to try to repair it yourself and succeed and think someone totally electronically challenged could also do it, please let me know because I would like to get my DMRE 55 going again if i can.
Good luck.
I'm a novice at this myself, I've done a bit of soldering in the past, but wouldn't have a clue where to start in repairing this sort of stuff. I'm not going to bother with the usual disclaimers, warnings about tampering with mains power etc. - You know the score! (And you don't know my address!)


Go for it! - If you have "written off" the unit, then you only have a few pounds to loose if you try to fix it and mess it up completely! Replaced mine last night - difficulty level on a scale of 1 to 10 is about a 2! It is a little early to say whether this has fixed my problem, as it was an intermittant fault, but all seems to be working O.K. and certainly the power-up "self test", seems to be much quicker than it was.

It's very straightforward - but you need a (smallish) soldering iron and some way of removing the old component - it has 5 "legs" - I used my "solder sucker" without any problems, although a previous poster says that I shouldn't use one in this instance and recommends using desoldering braid instead (didn't explain why though).

Quick step-by step (although most of this could be found in previous posts.)

Order new STR-G6353 from Nikko Electronics (www.dalbani.co.uk) £6.33 plus £4.99 Post and packing! - Post and packing seemed expensive, but their service was amazing! Ordered at 4:30pm, arrived before 11:00am the next day - they are in Surrey, I live in the Isle of Man!

Disconnect leads from DMR E55, noting where they went.

Remove cover - 1 screw each side, 3 on the back. - Stand back in amazement, when you see how much "free space" there is inside the unit - my previous encounters inside AV equipment have always been with (older) VCRs.

Looking from the back of the machine the power supply board is on your left.

Tricky step number one. - Remove the "ribbon cable" connector linking this board to the next. Don't pull on the cable itself! Use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to release the clip on the socket, and ease the plug (attached to the cable) out. The plug and socket are both black and it isn't easy at first to see where one starts and the other finishes.

Remove the three screws fixing the board in place, and the screw holding the AC in socket on the rear panel.

Lift out the board, it looks like it could be connected to the boards on the front panel, but isn't. Try to remember how the board comes out - this should help when you come to replace it! (See below.)

Locate the (hopefully duff!) STR-G6353 - it is between the transformer and biggest capacitor on the board and is attached to a "heatsink" (of sorts!) On the board it is marked IC001 - Don't confuse it with IC006 which looks similar!

Remove the screw from the heat sink. Now you have to desolder the STR-G6353. (This is tricky step number two! - Actually I found this easier than I expected). Unfortunately there are a few tiny surface-mount components close to it's legs which you need to avoid, so take care.

The new chip comes in an anti-static bag - I don't know how sensitive these are to static, but it is worth taking the usual precautions - i.e. earth youself before handling it!

Bend the legs if necessary, so they fit in the holes in the board, screw it to the heat-sink and solder the pins. (There is no sign of any heat sink compound on the old components - so I assume that none is needed?)

Replace the board (this took me a while until I realised that the metal tab at the back of the front panel, that always seemed to be in the way, is actually bendy plastic.)

Replace the ribbon cable connector!

Replace the AC screw and 3 fixing screws, the cover and it's 5 screws, connect up and hope for the best!

The whole operation took me a little over half an hour - I would be interested to know how you get on.

...of course this isn't a "repair", but a temporary fix..... I expect to be doing it again in two years time!


Does anyone know if it would be worth modifying the heat sink to make it bigger? There is certainly loads of room in the box.
 

ROYOLD

Novice Member
Order new STR-G6633 from Nikko Electronics (www.dalbani.co.uk) £6.33 plus £4.99 Post and packing! - Post and packing seemed expensive, but their service was amazing! Ordered at 4:30pm, arrived before 11:00am the next day - they are in Surrey, I live in the Isle of Man!

You have accidentally given the wrong chip number although you do quote the correct number STRG 6353 further down your posting.

The large capacitor is most likely an electrolytic reservoir capacitor and it may also be worthwhile replacing this with the same or other make of similar value. Large electrolytics are very prone to leakage and failure.
 

Senrap

Active Member
Magicjohn, you are just that!.

I will order the voltage regulator and will have a look but I will probably get my brother in law to do the repair when he is next around; he loves that sort of thing and besides he has a soldering iron!

Thanks again.
 

idm67

Standard Member
Finally took the plunge and ordered the voltage regulator for my DMR-E55 (constant self checks, random switch offs). I ordered from a different place (www.signalsuk.com) the regulator was £11.88 inc. postage.

Followed magicjohns instructions and HEY PRESTO!! it works....I did add a little amount of thermal paste before fitting the heatsink just to try and help it out.
 

Senrap

Active Member
Good for you idm67.

My brother in law worked on mine because he is normally extremely good with jobs like this.

HOWEVER, not this time!

I warned him about needing to be careful with the solder but he did not have the right equipment for the job but pressed ahead regardless.

I have now given up it.

By the way magicjohn, thanks again.
 

batty

Active Member
:hiya: Thanks everyone for this thread.

I've just replaced the STRG6353. £11.88 from signalsuk.com

Everything is working fine now :D

Thanks again :thumbsup:
 

matt_Pict_mad

Standard Member
:hiya:

Thanks from this end as well, just breathed some new life in my Pana 55, which had shown the same symptons as all the other 55 & 85, i.e. going crazy with self check when switching it on.

Another £11.88 job from Signals UK, together with the instructions from this thread and hey presto it works. Have to say, I did my best to murder the board with my amateur soldering, but .... success!

I'll never touch it again, next time it will be terminal.:thumbsdow

Anyway, happy for now!!!!!:clap: :clap: :clap:
 

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