Question Optoma HD39HDR 3d with ZD101 glasses

Radagast13

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Help! What am I doing wrong? So, I have been using my new Optoma HD39HDR projector for a couple of months to watch Blu-ray's & DVD's, and an occasional UHD, from my Sony UBP-X800 player, with no real problems [some menu delays to be discussed in another post]. Today I finally decided to try out the 3D function. I had been waiting until I got my surround sound set up, but today I got impatient and decided to watch a mono 3D movie, "Dial M for Murder".

The projector immediately recognized 3D content availability from the disc and offered to switch to 3D mode. So far so good. I chose "Yes" and the menus appeared as doubled images as expected. I powered on my new [to me] ZD101 glasses; I got a single LED flash indicating they were on, but the menu still appeared as doubled image, NOT 3D! I tried every setting in the 3D menu, especially the sync. invert, but no 3D! I tried going ahead and playing the movie in case the problem was only with the menu, but the movie played with double images as well.

How do I get 3D images to appear? I'm veey frustrated as this was the main reason I got a projector [3D TV's being unavailable new & prohibitively expensive used]. I have collected dozens of 3D movies and am getting desperate to see them in 3D!
 
Did you drop your source output to 1080p instead of Auto or 4k as I have to do that on my 51A but the 3D option is greyed out on mine until I do that so you probably have already done that.
 
Did you drop your source output to 1080p instead of Auto or 4k as I have to do that on my 51A but the 3D option is greyed out on mine until I do that so you probably have already done that.
Thanks for the reply. "source output" sounds like an oxymoron. ;) Where is this set? I don't know what a 51A is. I leave most settings on both the Sony & the Optoma at their default values for now. This is my first projector, and first foray into 3D & UHD territory. :{) I AM using the "high-speed" HDMI cable that came with the Sony. No problem playing UHD, just 3D.
 
Mine is the Optoma 51A which is this one :

Optoma 51A

I have my projector connected to a Denon AVR X2500H 7.2 AV receiver and for normal use I leave it's ouptput set at 4K but if I want to watch something in 3D from my 4K Blu Ray player or my 4K Amazon Firestick or satellite receiver I have to go into the settings of the Denon and change it's output to 1080p otherwise my projector greys out the 3D option in the menu otherwise it would show the picture as two side by side ones.
 
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Mine is the Optoma 51A which is this one :

Optoma 51A

I have my projector connected to a Denon AVR X2500H 7.2 AV receiver and for normal use I leave it's ouptput set at 4K but if I want to watch something in 3D from my 4K Blu Ray player or my 4K Amazon Firestick or satellite receiver I have to go into the settings of the Denon and change it's output to 1080p otherwise my projector greys out the 3D option in the menu otherwise it would show the picture as two side by side ones.
Ah, thank you - your 51A seems fairly similar to my HD39HDR. I haven't hooked up my Denon AVR-X1600H yet [waiting for shelves & speaker wire runs to Klipsch HDT-500]. For now, I'm hooked up direct. I can't find any similar setting on my Sony UBP-X800 Blu-ray player. I don't know what resolution it's putting out in 3D mode, but the symptom is as you describe, the image is doubled, side-by-side. Do you, or does anyone here, know a way to remedy this? It seems odd that the projector would detect a 3D signal and switch to 3D mode, then treat the signal as one [2D] image. BTW, I can display the 3D-left or 3D-right image individually, using the Optoma controls. This makes me think the problem is with the glasses. I have two pair, and have tried both, of the ZD101 glasses. The LED indicates that they are turning on/off, but they don't seem to be doing the alternate shutter thing, or, at least, I can't detect it. I can't detect any white flashes on the screen [for DLP Sync], either, but I imagine it's not supposed to be noticeable to the naked eye. I'm befuddled.
 
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I can't help you with changing the resolution that is being sent to your projector but I can tell you that it is unlikely to be your glasses at fault as if the projector has changed to 3D you would not get the two clear separate side by side images but a blurry double image that was overlapping slightly, a bit like how you used to see the old anaglyph if you didn't wear the red and cyan glasses like in this picture, but with the pictures overlapping in the same colour instead of the two colours

bigtube1.png
 
I never watched a movie [TV or theater] with the red & cyan glasses, but my image does look a bit like that [see attached].
20200318_032731.jpg

The disc menu above was doubled like the title page below, but my [phone] camera caught it as a non-doubled [2D?] image.
20200318_032836.jpg

20200318_033256.jpg

20200318_033320.jpg

20200318_033809.jpg
Using the Optoma 3D settings, I can switch from 3D -> 2D-L -> 2D-R. The 2D images shift slightly when I switch from 2D-L to 2D-R, as expected.
 
That does look like it could be your glasses, or the signal being sent from you projector to the glasses then as I thought you were getting this type of picture

normal_Ice_Age_Continental_Drift_3D_2012_1080p_H-SBS_Bluray_DTS_x264-HDChina4.png


instead of the overlapping ones.
 
Ah, thanks, I wondered what the side-by-side meant. So, I'm back to "Aaarrgh! How can I watch my 3 dozen 3D movies in 3D?" With my current equipment [which I spent way more on than I should have, given my budget as a retiree]:
- Sony UBP-X800 Blu-ray Player [Region Free]
- Optoma HD39HDR Projector
- Optoma ZD101 DLP Link 3D Glasses
 
Reading page 35 of your manual it seems that you have an option to select DLP glasses, which your ZD101 glasses are, or IR, RF or even polarised glasses.

I have put a link to you manual in case you haven't go one with your projector

Manual

I didn't know you could get a single DLP projector that would work with polarised glasses as they are usually much lighter so more comfortable and are really cheap.

Side by side is called SBS or HSBS, half side by side, and is like the picture I posted earlier, you can also get what is sometimes called Top and Bottom or Over and Under which look like this

topbottom-3d.jpg


There are several more formats which I have never seen or downloaded called Frame Sequential, Frame Packing and one called Chequerboard.

See if you have that option in you menu to select DLP instead of the IR, RF or Polarised and if you have then it should work .
 
Thank you for the manual link. Since my [brand new from Adorama] HD39HDR did not come with a user manual [just a quick setup sheet], I looked everywhere for a HD39HDR manual, but could not find one [not offered on the Optoma sight for HD39HDR - weird!]. I finally downloaded the manual for the HD27HDR, which seemed to be the closest. However, the one you sent a link for seems to be even better [closer?], although all of the stuff about XGA/WXGA seems to be inapplicable to my HD39HDR. Odd that neither manual specifies what model it is for.

The 3D Tech. menu option defaults to DLP-Link, but can be set to 3D-Sync, but no difference is visible. The 3D Format menu is greyed out, but defaulted to Auto.

I tried another 3D disc, just in case the problem was in the media. However, the same symptoms appeared.

I'm really beginning to think I got a bad pair of glasses [times 2!]. Since it took me a couple of months to try out the 3D feature, it is too late to return these glasses, so that's $55 [$45 +$10 s&h] down the drain! There is a "new" pair [times 2!] on eBay for $29.99 [+$19.99 s&h], but I'll have to wait until after the first to order them. Maybe I should get the SquareTrade 3-year protection plan for $2.51 [I usually pass on protection plan offerings].

Thanks again, for your help!

-- Don Paul [aka Radagast13]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I don't know why all that strike-through showed up. I must've tapped something as I was posting [I'm doing this from my phone].
 
I don't know why all that strike-through showed up. I must've tapped something as I was posting [I'm doing this from my phone].
It took some working out how to do it but got there in the end and removed the strike-through.
 
Cool, that looks like my projector in the add, but the link and the manual itself have no model designation. You'll notice that there is no mention of XGA/WXGA in the add. 😉
 
If you click on the product sheet in the download section of that link it takes you here

Datasheet

Where it says this :

Computer Compatibility VGA, SVGA, HDTV(720P), WXGA, WXGA+, SXGA, SXGA+, UXGA, HDTV(1080p), WUXGA Video Input Compatibility PAL, SECAM, 576i/p, NTSC, 480i/p, HDTV 720p/1080i/1080p 3D Compatibility† Supports all HDMI 1.4a mandatory 3D formats (Frame pack, side-by-side, top-bottom) and up converts frame rate from 60Hz to 120Hz or 24Hz to 144Hz (i.e. 60 or 72 frames per eye). 3D glasses are needed and are sold separately. Refer to user manual for details.
 
But there are no XGA/WXGA settings in the menu for my HD39HDR. That's why I'm wondering if it is the right manual. It doesn't really matter as, with your help, I believe I've identified the problem as the glasses. They're not doing what they're supposed to do [the shuttering thing]. After "payday" [social security], I'll order some new ones. Hopefully, that will solve the problem. Thanks for your help. Check back in a few weeks for an update, eh?
 
Good luck, I hope it is the glasses and not whatever sends the signal from the projector.

Before you buy more glasses have you tried new batteries or if they are rechargeable have you fully charged them?

The first Optoma ones I got for my old HD600X had replaceable batteries but the generic DLP ones I bought later were rechargeable.
 
Good luck, I hope it is the glasses and not whatever sends the signal from the projector.

Before you buy more glasses have you tried new batteries or if they are rechargeable have you fully charged them?

The first Optoma ones I got for my old HD600X had replaceable batteries but the generic DLP ones I bought later were rechargeable.
Sorry, I didn't check back here for a while. I've ordered the new glasses, but they're coming from Canada, so expected to take 4 weeks! I bought new batteries, but the ones in the glasses tested full strength. As I mentioned, the LED light in the on/off button glows bright when turning on [after a press & hold of a few seconds] and does a double-flash when turning off [no need to hold button for off].

I hope it's not the projector, too. That would be too expensive to replace! I've got six months before this one is paid off <lol>. It seems unlikely that everything else with the projector works, but not that. Especially when it displays message that 3D is detected, and the 3D menu options produce different visible results as I switch between them.
 
Hopefully it will be the glasses.

I do not know enough about how the DLP flashes work to be able to test them in a similar way to testing IR remotes with a camera so I guess that only by trying a different pair of glasses, as you are doing, would be the best way. It seems strange that both pairs don't work though.

I will keep my fingers crossed for you :)
 
Hopefully it will be the glasses.

I do not know enough about how the DLP flashes work to be able to test them in a similar way to testing IR remotes with a camera so I guess that only by trying a different pair of glasses, as you are doing, would be the best way. It seems strange that both pairs don't work though.

I will keep my fingers crossed for you :)
Hi, Sandra! My new glasses finally arrived this week [they took almost 6 weeks to get here from Canada, must've started out by dog sled]. Highly excited, I tried everything we tried before, but with the same results. So now I have 4 pair of glasses that have cost me over a $100. If it turns out to be something else, at least I have enough glasses to have a 3D party now. I'm guessing it must be the projector now, as if it were the Blu-ray player, I wouldn't get the 3D signal detected by the projector. I sent a description of the problem [same as started this thread] to Optoma tech support several days ago, but have not received any response, except for an immediate auto-reply acknowledgement of receipt. I don't know what else to try. No one else has jumped into this thread. I am so grateful that you took the time to respond and try to help me.
 
I am sorry to hear that you have still not managed to get your 3D working, despite buying more glasses but at least it looks like it is 100% a projector fault now.

Hopefully Optoma will get back to you at some point soon and will be able to sort it out, then you will realise how fantastic 3D on a home cinema projector is :)
 
I am sorry to hear that you have still not managed to get your 3D working, despite buying more glasses but at least it looks like it is 100% a projector fault now.

Hopefully Optoma will get back to you at some point soon and will be able to sort it out, then you will realise how fantastic 3D on a home cinema projector is :)

Well, I guess that theory is wrong too. I just finally got a response from Optoma:
"The ZD101 are too old, the sync rate will not be fast enough. If you are looking for Optoma branded glasses the ZD302 would be the ones to look for. Other newer 3D DLP-Link glasses should also work."

Great! What happened to backwards compatibility? I still use AV equipment bought in the 70's with no problem! I can plug my 70's turntable & speakers into my Denon AV receiver without complaint.

I am so upset that I have spent over $100 on useless glasses! And now I have to wait for another 6 weeks, maybe, for delivery of some other glasses. They are not available from any major online source, like Amazon, so it's back to eBay. Aaargh!

I chose this model because I felt the thicker ear pieces would block my peripheral vision and therefore give me a better viewing experience. I was disappointed to see that the newer models only had the thin ear pieces. Have you any suggestions on the best glasses to get? Should I stick with Optoma brand, or get some other compatible brand? Do you know anybody interested in 4 pairs of obsolete glasses? <sour grin>

At least I now have a path to follow that may allow me to watch my growing collection of 3D movies. Yeah!
 
That doesn't sound right to me as I can still use the original ZD201 120Hz glasses and the cheap unbranded Chinese ones that I got with my HD 600X and 3D XL with my UHD 51A and I have not noticed any difference when using those or the newer 144Hz ones which I bought thinking that they would give me a better picture. The newer ones are a little lighter in weight and I think they have a slightly brighter picture but not enough to justify buying the newer ones.

It is a shame that you are not in the UK as I could have posted you a pair that I know work with my 51A for you. to try
 
Have you heard anything about these?

BOBLOV JX-30 3D DLP-Link Active Shutter Glasses **** on Amazon, 2 pair for $39

One user review mentioned they worked with his Optoma HD27HDR, which is the manual I was using for my HD39HDR.

These would be new from Amazon, so returnable if they don't work. Sounds like a good way to go, no?
 

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