Optimum C/E9 configuration for PC Gaming and Kodi 4k HDR+Bit streamed audio

dodge586

Member
I’m a new 55 E9 owner (after months of waiting and thread lurking) I bit the bullet last week and I’m really pleased to finally have a ‘top end’ tele.

Over the months various tips/tricks and advice have come up in different threads and I’ve tried to note them down when I thought they would be useful, but things have become a bit fragmented and it turns out that my notes might not be that comprehensive, and possibly outdated with firmware changes etc.

I’d like to outline how I’ve got things currently setup to make sure I’ve not overlooked something, but possibly this thread could serve as a ‘best advice’ placeholder for people doing something similar, as I’m sure other people are doing exactly the same as me.

As stated, I’ve a 55E9 but also a Yamaha RXV581 AV receiver and I windows PC with an Nvidia RTX2080Ti.

Three main types of use:

  • Live broadcast HDTV. Choice to use either inbuilt speaker or pass through to AVR.
  • Buit-In Apps (NetFlix, iPlayer etc). Choice to use either inbuilt speaker or pass through to AVR for multi-channel in highest quality available.
  • External PC connectivity:
  • Mixed 1080/4K/HDR Gaming with 5.1 PCM audio, G-sync
  • Kodi Matrix 19.0 HDR Edition for home cinema/music


Limitations:

Current E9/C9 firmware is limited to PCM pass-through of 2.0 channels only. LG have announced a future firmware revision will resolve this.

AVR is limited to HDMI 2.0 (as with all current gen AVR’s)

GPU is limited to 1X HDMI 2.0b and 3X Display Port 1.4

Due to HDMI 2.0, it’s not possible to output 120Hz with 4:4:4 chroma, only 4:4:2. Note, I’m not necessarily interested in outputting 120hz anyway.



Current setup:

Connectivity:


PC is connected directly to TV using HDMI cable on HDMI 1. AVR is connected to TV by HDMI cable on HDMI 2 (ARC port).

A Display Port to HDMI adaptor connects the PC to the AVR. This has the effect of creating a second display output in Windows but is necessary to route audio via this connection to overcome the 2.0 PCM audio limitation (for surround sound games).



Windows:

Windows is set to use this as the default audio device. It’s a little confusing to setup as both outputs will have the same name and claim to be on a HDMI port (even though one is on a Display Port). This needs to be set in Nvidia control panel (set up digital audio) and also in Windows sound outputs. I manually need to switch the AVR to look at its secondary input, but this is just fine for me.

G-sync is set to on in Nvidia control panel.

Windows is display is set to 60hz and ‘Play HDR games and apps’ is on.



Kodi Matrix 19.0 HDR Edition:

Set to sync the display to the FPS of the content (e.g. 24FPS for movie)

Audio output is set to WASAPI and pass through. (Trial and error to get correct one as again you’ll have two audio devices with the same name).




This setup does seem to be working well for me. Note, there is opportunity for confusion as you may still get 2.0 audio from the PC sent via the ARC from the TV, so you must remember to manually switch the AVR to it’s secondary input (the DP-HDMI link from the PC).


I’m interested to know if I’ve missed something important with my configuration...

Something else I haven’t at all considered is what settings I should apply to the TV when viewing the PC. At the moment, it immediately switches to “Instant Game Response”. This is obviously good for gaming, but probably not necessary for Kodi sessions, though I’m guessing will cause no ill effect if left on.

Another point of confusion, I’m not sure how to configure the motion settings for games/kodi sessions. But equally, I don’t want to be deep diving menu’s, changing dozens of settings for a simple change of content.



Config pics included in case helpful.
 

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jwsg

Well-known Member
You'll find posts with people with C9/E9 and Nvidia who will have proper settings and also who have ran video to the Tv and audio to the amp due to no multi chan over eARC I'm using a C8 so no gsync so I run through a receiver.

Because your GPU video is coming in on its own HDMI you can choose specific settings on different TV picture modes for gaming and video and quickly select different ones

Your windows settings match mine 8 bit RGB (444 chroma) which is optimal for desktop as long as PC label is used for that input. PC Label allows low latency and on the C8 unlocks more picture options than Game mode

But for video you'd really want 422 or 420 chroma 10/12 bit. Hopefully Kodi would change the video output settings on fullscreen as doing it manually is a pain
On the C8 though there is a problem with PC label - you still get banding with 422 chroma so I have to select another label for video playback

For SDR windows and games I use PC label, ISF Bright, 20 OLED light, 100 contrast, 20 sharpness, 2.2 gamma, enhancements off, Auto colour gamut, and cool colour temp

For HDR gaming I just use HDR game picture mode but banding is visible with 8 bit video - until we get HDMI 2.1 GPUs one day

In WIndows i have no dekstop icons, a short rotation wallpaper with a range of images, auto-hide taskbar, dark theme, blank screensaver on short timeout

You have a powerful GPU but I always go for 4K output and use resolution scaling inside the game to allow 60fps
 
Last edited:

crsnwby

Active Member
My advice from experience is not to game on these OLED TV's if you dont have to, the screen burn is irreparable. If you do have to game on it, avoid high brightness and HDR combined with yellow heath bars etc. If you can while gaming hide all HUD's in games. I was lucky with the switch that the Zelda red hearts eventually disappeared, with the PS4 Destiny 2 yellow heath bars the pixels are now dimmer than the rest of the screen pixels.
 

dodge586

Member
My advice from experience is not to game on these OLED TV's if you dont have to, the screen burn is irreparable. If you do have to game on it, avoid high brightness and HDR combined with yellow heath bars etc. If you can while gaming hide all HUD's in games. I was lucky with the switch that the Zelda red hearts eventually disappeared, with the PS4 Destiny 2 yellow heath bars the pixels are now dimmer than the rest of the screen pixels.

I’m aware as to the risk of burn-in and I specifically don’t want this to become another discussion about it. I’m planning to take reasonable precautions but I’m not going to wrap it up in cotton wool. I bought it for its gaming credentials and I accept that there is a risk if I’m stupid with it.
As you suggest with HUD's and start bars I'll disable them where practical.

I haven’t renamed the PC input yet, so that sounds like something I need to do…
 

jwsg

Well-known Member
Its a quick operation to choose "PC" input label on the C8 from the All Inputs settings menu.

PC label gets the best text with 444 (RGB) Chroma and keeps the low latency of Game preset on other presets like ISF expert

But if you're just gaming and watching videos then the 422 chroma that consoles use for 10/12 bit might be the better option

On the C8, PC label is meant for 444 so it still gives banding with 422 so I change it to another label for videos - luckily it's quick to change

You actually get another set of picture presets with PC label so you can have best settings for Windows with PC label and better ones for videos with another input label.
 

dodge586

Member
Its a quick operation to choose "PC" input label on the C8 from the All Inputs settings menu.

PC label gets the best text with 444 (RGB) Chroma and keeps the low latency of Game preset on other presets like ISF expert

But if you're just gaming and watching videos then the 422 chroma that consoles use for 10/12 bit might be the better option

On the C8, PC label is meant for 444 so it still gives banding with 422 so I change it to another label for videos - luckily it's quick to change

You actually get another set of picture presets with PC label so you can have best settings for Windows with PC label and better ones for videos with another input label.

Interesting... so as it is entirely gaming and video playback I'm using it for, there is a case for 422 being preferential... I guess I'll have to try both. I'm not striving for total accuracy just 'close enough' will do me.
 

Zeromancer

Standard Member
My work around for surround sound and the tv-avr is just hdmi to tv then hdmi from tv to av. put the sound mixture in windows to dolby atmos and i get surround sound in every game.
 

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