Question Optimising for classical music

jwlawler

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I have an A/V set-up which should cope with a range of uses: films, TV, pop music, and classical music. However, for me, the most important of these is classical music. I would like to optimise the set-up for this even if it is sub-optimal for other uses. One advice that I anticipate is to use a separate system for music: money, space, and wife constraints do not allow this.

Here is my set-up:

Receiver Denon X3200W - a recent upgrade from an Onkyo 605.

Front speakers: Tannoy Revolution R3.

Centre speaker: Tannoy Sensys C

Rear speakers: Mission m60i

Subwoofer: BK Gemini.

A bit of a mixed bag due to history and available bargains. The R3s were bought when I had just a stereo set-up.

Sources:

Stereo from iPod Classic via Onkyo ND S1 digital dock connected by optical. Most tracks have come from CD and use either Apple Lossless or AAC 320kbps VBR.

5.1 from BluRay or HDDVD in DTS MA or Dolby TrueHD via Panasonic BD35 or Toshiba EP35. I still have quite a few HDDVDs with some favourite music (and a few films).

My ideal is to close my eyes and imagine that the performers are actually in the room.

One particular topic that interests me is the bass management.

Classical music covers quite a range. Two broad categories are: orchestral and chamber. Obviously, imaging that a whole orchestra is in my house is stretch. My room is a little small even for a realistic chamber performance but much closer. If the optimal settings for these two genres or the two sources are different then I am willing to tolerate that.

Orchestral: the lowest note from a standard double bass is about 41Hz but many can go down to 32Hz and this is used occasionally. An extreme case is R Strauss's Also Sprach Zarathustra (the 2001 music) which starts with a 16Hz organ note.

Chamber: mostly the lower limit is about 64Hz (bottom note of a cello) but the double bass features occasionally and the piano can also go lower. So, again down to 32Hz would be good.

So far, I have just run Audyssey and not overridden anything that it has done. This seems to be a good start and it already sounds better than the Onkyo.

(Frequencies above are approximate but quite close.)
 
With running Audyssey, especially in a 5.1 configuration you must set the speaker size to small. This will allow all low frequencies below your selected crossover to be sent to the sub. Also with 5.1 discs the .1 LFE channel will carry the very low frequencies. Never set your crossovers to any lower than that recommended by Audyssey. Even with music I would be tempted to set the crossover of the front to 80hz. Bass below this will then be sent to the sub which does help to clean up the mids.

As for the sub, which sounds very important to you, I would look at the REL range. REL are probably one of the best for music as they are very fast and clean.

Another good uplift to sound quality could be the introduction of a stereo amp with HT bypass built in, especially so for stereo sourced music.
 
Thanks. I am hoping to get the best out of what I have before spending more.

I just checked what Audyssey has done. It set my front speakers to large and the centres and rears to small. The crossover was set to 40Hz for both the fronts and the centre. So, at the moment, only the most extreme low notes are going to the sub.

My post suggests a particular interest in the bass though that is mainly because of the speaker size and crossover issues.

The possibility and need for adjustments higher in the spectrum is less clear. I guess that I could play with bi-amping. I am not sure if I want the fuss.

So, since Audyssey set a crossover of 40Hz, there is no temptation to go lower. I'll try setting the fronts to small and raising the crossover.
 
I would not bother with bi-amping, especially so from the same receiver. Smoke and mirrors as far as I'm concerned as there is no discernible improvement in audio quality.
 
I would not bother with bi-amping, especially so from the same receiver. Smoke and mirrors as far as I'm concerned as there is no discernible improvement in audio quality.

Yeah, that was my starting position: it is hard to see any good argument for it. It is just that I have those two channels sitting idle on the amp which seems to be a shame. Occasionally, I set up a 7.1 system by borrowing another pair of Mission m60i from another room. I also have to rearrange the furniture. It is a nice but messy and the wife does not like it. I have not tried this with the Denon yet.
 
With running Audyssey, especially in a 5.1 configuration you must set the speaker size to small. This will allow all low frequencies below your selected crossover to be sent to the sub. Also with 5.1 discs the .1 LFE channel will carry the very low frequencies. Never set your crossovers to any lower than that recommended by Audyssey. Even with music I would be tempted to set the crossover of the front to 80hz. Bass below this will then be sent to the sub which does help to clean up the mids.

As for the sub, which sounds very important to you, I would look at the REL range. REL are probably one of the best for music as they are very fast and clean.

Another good uplift to sound quality could be the introduction of a stereo amp with HT bypass built in, especially so for stereo sourced music.

I just did a little playing. I set all of the speakers to small and played with the crossover frequency: 40, 60, and 80. The effect was fairly subtle. It is going to take a while to decide what I like best.

Oddly, some of my BluRay discs are 5.0 rather than 5.1.
 
I've got no classical on blu ray or DVD, infact my only real classical album is a good CD recording of The Planets, other being Classic FM compilations. So how they sound from 5.1, or 5.0 I can't really comment. However, with a crossover set then even a 5.0 will have bass sent to the sub below the crossover value.

When I do get in the mood for classics I have to use my Oppo PM1 open back headphones as the wife is not a fan. I can certainly sit back and imagine the orchestra with those on and I find them even more detailed than playing direct from my stereo amp via the speakers.
 
I have loads of classical on CD. I no longer count them as I rip them to the iPod and then stick them in a cupboard. Must be approaching 1000 now. At the last count, it was well over 500. Since them I have bought a box set of Mozart's complete works: 170 CDs and lots of other stuff.

I have also become a fan of classical on BluRay. Sometimes the visual element adds a lot e.g. ballet or opera. Other times not so much but the sound is good.

If you like The Planets then I can recommend this.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Universe-S...ts+bluray&dpPl=1&dpID=61XDXF6CSAL&ref=plSrch#

I have one audio only BluRay. Another Classic FM favourite: The Four Seasons.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Antonio-Vi...SY340_QL65&keywords=four+seasons+bluray+naxos

Also recommended. I may get some more of these.
 
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I also very much like classical music and I have a Denon AVR-X4400 which probably sounds very similar to your 3200. If I am listening to a stereo source (CDs or Radio 3 via Sky) I prefer to set the amp to Direct or Pure and just use my speakers as nature intended (MA Silver 1s). If I have a 5.0 or 5.1 source (ballet or opera blu rays) then I like the extra ambience and atmosphere from the surround channels but I do have Audyssey set to Off. For anything else I put Audyssey back to reference. Speakers set to small.
 
I also very much like classical music and I have a Denon AVR-X4400 which probably sounds very similar to your 3200. If I am listening to a stereo source (CDs or Radio 3 via Sky) I prefer to set the amp to Direct or Pure and just use my speakers as nature intended (MA Silver 1s). If I have a 5.0 or 5.1 source (ballet or opera blu rays) then I like the extra ambience and atmosphere from the surround channels but I do have Audyssey set to Off. For anything else I put Audyssey back to reference. Speakers set to small.

In theory, I should probably do the same but I miss the feel of the other channels when I drop down to just two channels. Also, for some music, it is nice to have the sub helping out.

At the moment, getting more music on BluRay is a solution though rather expensive.
 
In theory, I should probably do the same but I miss the feel of the other channels when I drop down to just two channels.

With many AVRs I must admit I may share that view for a lot of music, however with a high quality stereo pre-amp and amp (or integrated) and decent enough speakers you may find a much more natural and expansive sound stage that may quickly wean you off surround upmixes.
 
With many AVRs I must admit I may share that view for a lot of music, however with a high quality stereo pre-amp and amp (or integrated) and decent enough speakers you may find a much more natural and expansive sound stage that may quickly wean you off surround upmixes.

For some genres, it is easy to resist upmixes e.g. solo piano and string quartets. For orchestral music, resisting is a bit harder. I will experiment some more over the weekend.

However, an alternative temptation is to play with 7.1. I can do this by moving some furniture around and borrowing a pair of speakers from another room. Conveniently, these are the same as my rear speakers. This is rather silly and adds little (even to my few films with a 7.1 soundtrack) but it is fun. I like loudspeakers: the more the merrier.
 
I have some 6500 CDs / SACDs and 1500 LPs, all classical, and the kit in the sig. The AV9 is set up to do bass management with the crossover set to 80Hz, even though my ML Spires speakers are rated "29–23,000 Hz ± 3db". This handles both stereo (2.0 -> 2.1 / 5.1 / 7.1) and SACDs (5.0 -> 5.1). Operas on (DVD &) BD tend to be both 5.0 and 5.1 ( I only have operas and ballet on visual media, not concerts). Both will of course receive the bass management treatment from the AVR, so it will end up using the subwoofer as per the setup. An LFE channel is generally pointless for classical music, Don Giovanni being perhaps an exception [cf Jacobs on HM].

Some devices, such as Yamaha, offer DSP functionality to expand the soundstage to include the surround speakers, my Arcam was their last model to offer this feature. I use "Music" mode, which "uses ambiance extraction for the side and rear speakers and offers the most subtle surround processing with no reverberation or reflections". Your Denon doesn't offer such a feature, so you may find it hard to obtain a satisfactory ambience enhancement.

I would suggest using the bass management, setting all speakers to small and the crossover to 80Hz, and enabling Audyssey. When finances permit, you may wish to consider upgrading the stereo speakers.
 
Thanks for the tips. 2.1 may be good for some of the stereo sources.

Wow, I thought that I had a lot of classical music but I can't compete with you.

An upgrade to the stereo speakers is not likely any time soon. They are the oldest component of the system but also the most expensive.

I was not expecting a lot soundwise from my recent upgrade to the AVR but I am pleasantly surprised that it does seem significantly improved. My old Onkyo was not getting the best out of my speakers.
 
I do like my film original soundtracks. I've just sent for the Atmos disc of Hans Zimmer live in Prague. Sound quality has been given five stars by many professional reviewers. Shame I will have to listen to it in the middle of the night on headphones.
 
I do like my film original soundtracks. I've just sent for the Atmos disc of Hans Zimmer live in Prague. Sound quality has been given five stars by many professional reviewers. Shame I will have to listen to it in the middle of the night on headphones.

That is a shame. I don't like headphones and never use them. My attitude is: listen out loud in good conditions or not at all. I have never listened to music when jogging etc (partly because I don't jog). Nor do I use headphones at work as many do. Recently, I often work from home. I have set up a simple and cheap but quite nice system in my office (also known as a spare bedroom) which I have grown to love.
 
That is a shame. I don't like headphones and never use them. My attitude is: listen out loud in good conditions or not at all. I have never listened to music when jogging etc (partly because I don't jog). Nor do I use headphones at work as many do. Recently, I often work from home. I have set up a simple and cheap but quite nice system in my office (also known as a spare bedroom) which I have grown to love.
I like listening to music late at night. My wife has a dicky ticker and gets very tired and goes to bed early and the main speakers are right under our bedroom so listening at enjoyable levels will not be fair on her. I've invested in a really good pair of headphones, Oppo PM1s and they have an excellent soundstage and as 95% of my music listening, even on the main system, is in stereo is not too much of a disappointment.

To my wife the classics are James Taylor, Simon and Garkunkel and The Cranberries.:)
 
Our bedroom is also over our A/V room. Occasionally, my wife goes to bed before me but more often it is the reverse. Even when it happens, I don't need to turn the volume down as she could sleep through a small nuclear explosion. I don't even turn the sub off. The reverse is not so good. I easily hear what she is listening to when I go to bed first. I just tolerate that. I used to live in Asia and I am quite used to noise around me. Whether or not I can sleep easily is not related to ambient noise.

We are lucky to have a detached house. Once I turned the volume up to the loudest that I would ever like and then a bit more. I went outside and stood by the fence between us and the nearest neighbour. I could just hear that music was on but it would have to be a very fussy person that complained about that. The chances of them hearing from within their house seem to be zero.

So, I play music when I like as loud as I like - lucky me.
 
Was just doing some comparative tests between up mix on my AVR (Yamaha RX-V781) and just stereo via much higher end integrated stereo amp (Yamaha A-S2100). Sources were a variety of tracks of various genres on Tidal (Lossless FLAC) and the lounge house channel on DI.FM (320Kbit) radio which often has really nicely recorded music despite only being 320Kbit tends to sound really good if you like lounge house.

So, in general the more processed and electronic something is, the more I find it favours the AVR's up mix, especially trance, progressive house, ambient etc just because the upmix tends to place you in the middle of everything which can get quite trippy for some electronic music :).

However the more natural sounding it is, so good classical and acoustic records, or even just nice spacious and dynamic mixed electronic and acoustic/band music then I find it better suits high quality stereo playback in terms of delivery a bigger more natural sound stage - assuming of course reasonably well set speaker placement and listing position etc. It was interesting that also trying just pure direct from the AVR (ie just stereo, but still using the AVR as a pre-amp) how much the sound stage shrinks relative to the much higher end integrated amp.

So - comparing Nch vs stereo entirely within the AVR, then a lot of the time Nch is more enjoyable, however, replace the AVR with a much higher quality pre-amp/amp and I think its a different game entirely to the the point of being no-contest. I often find myself flicking through Tidal and listening to music and genres that I would never normally listen too, but because it was a great and immersive record I can quickly get immersed in it whereas listening on my AVR in the past (before I got this amp) I would probably have given it 10 seconds and moved to something else.

I would suggest you have a wonder down to a good hifi store and have a listen to some good amps from a decent source (though an AVR zone 2 out with the main switched off can be quite reasonable). I don't know those speakers you have however.

If you want to get a dedicated amp for music, then there are a couple of choices:
- completely separate system with own speakers
- amp acts as a front amp for AVR and as a decent integrated hifi amp in its own right - allows easy sharing of front speakers. (Needs an HT bypass capable integrated hifi amp)
- use a stereo amp -> speaker switch box (must be an isolated amp switch, not a cheap speaker switch) and a regular integrate hifi amp with no HT bypass capability

If you prefer the headphone route, then perhaps a high quality headphone amp and good headphones maybe an option - again this is instead of ploughing directly into the AVR so you can get a higher quality pre-amp/amp chain which can make a huge difference.
 
I have an A/V set-up which should cope with a range of uses: films, TV, pop music, and classical music. However, for me, the most important of these is classical music. I would like to optimise the set-up for this even if it is sub-optimal for other uses. One advice that I anticipate is to use a separate system for music: money, space, and wife constraints do not allow this.

Here is my set-up:

Receiver Denon X3200W - a recent upgrade from an Onkyo 605.

Front speakers: Tannoy Revolution R3.

Centre speaker: Tannoy Sensys C

Rear speakers: Mission m60i

Subwoofer: BK Gemini.

A bit of a mixed bag due to history and available bargains. The R3s were bought when I had just a stereo set-up.

Sources:

Stereo from iPod Classic via Onkyo ND S1 digital dock connected by optical. Most tracks have come from CD and use either Apple Lossless or AAC 320kbps VBR.

5.1 from BluRay or HDDVD in DTS MA or Dolby TrueHD via Panasonic BD35 or Toshiba EP35. I still have quite a few HDDVDs with some favourite music (and a few films).

My ideal is to close my eyes and imagine that the performers are actually in the room.

One particular topic that interests me is the bass management.

Classical music covers quite a range. Two broad categories are: orchestral and chamber. Obviously, imaging that a whole orchestra is in my house is stretch. My room is a little small even for a realistic chamber performance but much closer. If the optimal settings for these two genres or the two sources are different then I am willing to tolerate that.

Orchestral: the lowest note from a standard double bass is about 41Hz but many can go down to 32Hz and this is used occasionally. An extreme case is R Strauss's Also Sprach Zarathustra (the 2001 music) which starts with a 16Hz organ note.

Chamber: mostly the lower limit is about 64Hz (bottom note of a cello) but the double bass features occasionally and the piano can also go lower. So, again down to 32Hz would be good.

So far, I have just run Audyssey and not overridden anything that it has done. This seems to be a good start and it already sounds better than the Onkyo.

(Frequencies above are approximate but quite close.)
I have an A/V set-up which should cope with a range of uses: films, TV, pop music, and classical music. However, for me, the most important of these is classical music. I would like to optimise the set-up for this even if it is sub-optimal for other uses. One advice that I anticipate is to use a separate system for music: money, space, and wife constraints do not allow this.

Here is my set-up:

Receiver Denon X3200W - a recent upgrade from an Onkyo 605.

Front speakers: Tannoy Revolution R3.

Centre speaker: Tannoy Sensys C

Rear speakers: Mission m60i

Subwoofer: BK Gemini.

A bit of a mixed bag due to history and available bargains. The R3s were bought when I had just a stereo set-up.

Sources:

Stereo from iPod Classic via Onkyo ND S1 digital dock connected by optical. Most tracks have come from CD and use either Apple Lossless or AAC 320kbps VBR.

5.1 from BluRay or HDDVD in DTS MA or Dolby TrueHD via Panasonic BD35 or Toshiba EP35. I still have quite a few HDDVDs with some favourite music (and a few films).

My ideal is to close my eyes and imagine that the performers are actually in the room.

One particular topic that interests me is the bass management.

Classical music covers quite a range. Two broad categories are: orchestral and chamber. Obviously, imaging that a whole orchestra is in my house is stretch. My room is a little small even for a realistic chamber performance but much closer. If the optimal settings for these two genres or the two sources are different then I am willing to tolerate that.

Orchestral: the lowest note from a standard double bass is about 41Hz but many can go down to 32Hz and this is used occasionally. An extreme case is R Strauss's Also Sprach Zarathustra (the 2001 music) which starts with a 16Hz organ note.

Chamber: mostly the lower limit is about 64Hz (bottom note of a cello) but the double bass features occasionally and the piano can also go lower. So, again down to 32Hz would be good.

So far, I have just run Audyssey and not overridden anything that it has done. This seems to be a good start and it already sounds better than the Onkyo.

(Frequencies above are approximate but quite close.)
I have an A/V set-up which should cope with a range of uses: films, TV, pop music, and classical music. However, for me, the most important of these is classical music. I would like to optimise the set-up for this even if it is sub-optimal for other uses. One advice that I anticipate is to use a separate system for music: money, space, and wife constraints do not allow this.

Here is my set-up:

Receiver Denon X3200W - a recent upgrade from an Onkyo 605.

Front speakers: Tannoy Revolution R3.

Centre speaker: Tannoy Sensys C

Rear speakers: Mission m60i

Subwoofer: BK Gemini.

A bit of a mixed bag due to history and available bargains. The R3s were bought when I had just a stereo set-up.

Sources:

Stereo from iPod Classic via Onkyo ND S1 digital dock connected by optical. Most tracks have come from CD and use either Apple Lossless or AAC 320kbps VBR.

5.1 from BluRay or HDDVD in DTS MA or Dolby TrueHD via Panasonic BD35 or Toshiba EP35. I still have quite a few HDDVDs with some favourite music (and a few films).

My ideal is to close my eyes and imagine that the performers are actually in the room.

One particular topic that interests me is the bass management.

Classical music covers quite a range. Two broad categories are: orchestral and chamber. Obviously, imaging that a whole orchestra is in my house is stretch. My room is a little small even for a realistic chamber performance but much closer. If the optimal settings for these two genres or the two sources are different then I am willing to tolerate that.

Orchestral: the lowest note from a standard double bass is about 41Hz but many can go down to 32Hz and this is used occasionally. An extreme case is R Strauss's Also Sprach Zarathustra (the 2001 music) which starts with a 16Hz organ note.

Chamber: mostly the lower limit is about 64Hz (bottom note of a cello) but the double bass features occasionally and the piano can also go lower. So, again down to 32Hz would be good.

So far, I have just run Audyssey and not overridden anything that it has done. This seems to be a good start and it already sounds better than the Onkyo.

(Frequencies above are approximate but quite close.)[/Q

Hello,

MHE:
In concert hall, artists are playing without hifi or surround. CDs are made for stereo sound.

Large scale orchestral work, e.g.R. Strauss, are difficult to replay. At exhibition, I've come across huge ATC powered floorstand speakers which 'seemingling ok' (But to me, unafforble + small listening space).

I may meet the requirement of frequency range on Paper by adding boxes. but Risk : unbalance sounds , blurred imaging, boomy LF for classical music

IMHO, you may spotify Beethovan's work as a reference for set up (with his wide range of categories, from chamber to medium scale orchestra)

Hifi set up may be tested with 3 Bs (Bach's solo voline, solo cello work--both without piano; Bethovan's sym 9 to test orchestra + chorus; Brahm' orchestra; plus the beginning of Mahler sym 2 (cellos); Mahler 5 beginning with trumpets etc.)--Just choose a small part to test speakers, not appreciating music. Feel free to adjust with your taste, e.g. adding piano solo (Spotifying may be the most convenient way to do so)

More 20 years, with rogers LS35a and rogers AB-1, I'm fully satisfield. It can replay chamber music at ease, and offer reasonable effect when replaying Sibelius, Rachmaninov, Tschaikowsky, Bruckner, Mahler 2, 5 but too challenging for it to replay R.Strauss and the late work of Mahler.

Hardware is mere an instructment for music!

Now I'm seeking for upgrading with following options:

Small or medium shelves: ATC, PMC (analytical, though a bit difficult to drive);
Proac, Harbeth (warm, easy to drive, small Harbeth good for low volume listening at night)

Yes, I may be a bit luxurious to pay a lot for a pair of small boxes, but if it can last for more than 10 years (Rewarding in the long-term?)

Just MHE for your refernce :)
 
I have an A/V set-up which should cope with a range of uses: films, TV, pop music, and classical music. However, for me, the most important of these is classical music. I would like to optimise the set-up for this even if it is sub-optimal for other uses. One advice that I anticipate is to use a separate system for music: money, space, and wife constraints do not allow this.

Here is my set-up:

Receiver Denon X3200W - a recent upgrade from an Onkyo 605.

Front speakers: Tannoy Revolution R3.

Centre speaker: Tannoy Sensys C

Rear speakers: Mission m60i

Subwoofer: BK Gemini.

A bit of a mixed bag due to history and available bargains. The R3s were bought when I had just a stereo set-up.

Sources:

Stereo from iPod Classic via Onkyo ND S1 digital dock connected by optical. Most tracks have come from CD and use either Apple Lossless or AAC 320kbps VBR.

5.1 from BluRay or HDDVD in DTS MA or Dolby TrueHD via Panasonic BD35 or Toshiba EP35. I still have quite a few HDDVDs with some favourite music (and a few films).

My ideal is to close my eyes and imagine that the performers are actually in the room.

One particular topic that interests me is the bass management.

Classical music covers quite a range. Two broad categories are: orchestral and chamber. Obviously, imaging that a whole orchestra is in my house is stretch. My room is a little small even for a realistic chamber performance but much closer. If the optimal settings for these two genres or the two sources are different then I am willing to tolerate that.

Orchestral: the lowest note from a standard double bass is about 41Hz but many can go down to 32Hz and this is used occasionally. An extreme case is R Strauss's Also Sprach Zarathustra (the 2001 music) which starts with a 16Hz organ note.

Chamber: mostly the lower limit is about 64Hz (bottom note of a cello) but the double bass features occasionally and the piano can also go lower. So, again down to 32Hz would be good.

So far, I have just run Audyssey and not overridden anything that it has done. This seems to be a good start and it already sounds better than the Onkyo.

(Frequencies above are approximate but quite close.)


Hello,

MHE:
In concert hall, artists are playing without hifi or surround. CDs are made for stereo sound.

Large scale orchestral work, e.g.R. Strauss, are difficult to replay. At exhibition, I've come across huge ATC powered floorstand speakers which 'seemingling ok' (But to me, unafforble + small listening space).

I may meet the requirement of frequency range on Paper by adding boxes. but Risk : unbalance sounds , blurred imaging, boomy LF for classical music

IMHO, you may spotify Beethovan's work as a reference for set up (with his wide range of categories, from chamber to medium scale orchestra)

Hifi set up may be tested with 3 Bs (Bach's solo voline, solo cello work--both without piano; Bethovan's sym 9 to test orchestra + chorus; Brahm' orchestra; plus the beginning of Mahler sym 2 (cellos); Mahler 5 beginning with trumpets etc.)--Just choose a small part to test speakers, not appreciating music. Feel free to adjust with your taste, e.g. adding piano solo (Spotifying may be the most convenient way to do so)

More 20 years, with rogers LS35a and rogers AB-1, I'm fully satisfield. It can replay chamber music at ease, and offer reasonable effect when replaying Sibelius, Rachmaninov, Tschaikowsky, Bruckner, Mahler 2, 5 but too challenging for it to replay R.Strauss and the late work of Mahler.

Hardware is mere an instructment for music!

Now I'm seeking for upgrading with following options:

Small or medium shelves: ATC, PMC (analytical, though a bit difficult to drive);
Proac, Harbeth (warm, easy to drive, small Harbeth good for low volume listening at night)

Yes, I may be a bit luxurious to pay a lot for a pair of small boxes, but if it can last for more than 10 years (Rewarding in the long-term?)

Just MHE for your refernce :)
 
Hello,

MHE:
In concert hall, artists are playing without hifi or surround. CDs are made for stereo sound.

Large scale orchestral work, e.g.R. Strauss, are difficult to replay. At exhibition, I've come across huge ATC powered floorstand speakers which 'seemingling ok' (But to me, unafforble + small listening space).

I may meet the requirement of frequency range on Paper by adding boxes. but Risk : unbalance sounds , blurred imaging, boomy LF for classical music

IMHO, you may spotify Beethovan's work as a reference for set up (with his wide range of categories, from chamber to medium scale orchestra)

Hifi set up may be tested with 3 Bs (Bach's solo voline, solo cello work--both without piano; Bethovan's sym 9 to test orchestra + chorus; Brahm' orchestra; plus the beginning of Mahler sym 2 (cellos); Mahler 5 beginning with trumpets etc.)--Just choose a small part to test speakers, not appreciating music. Feel free to adjust with your taste, e.g. adding piano solo (Spotifying may be the most convenient way to do so)

More 20 years, with rogers LS35a and rogers AB-1, I'm fully satisfield. It can replay chamber music at ease, and offer reasonable effect when replaying Sibelius, Rachmaninov, Tschaikowsky, Bruckner, Mahler 2, 5 but too challenging for it to replay R.Strauss and the late work of Mahler.

Hardware is mere an instructment for music!

Now I'm seeking for upgrading with following options:

Small or medium shelves: ATC, PMC (analytical, though a bit difficult to drive);
Proac, Harbeth (warm, easy to drive, small Harbeth good for low volume listening at night)

Yes, I may be a bit luxurious to pay a lot for a pair of small boxes, but if it can last for more than 10 years (Rewarding in the long-term?)

Just MHE for your refernce :)
 
I have an A/V set-up which should cope with a range of uses: films, TV, pop music, and classical music. However, for me, the most important of these is classical music. I would like to optimise the set-up for this even if it is sub-optimal for other uses. One advice that I anticipate is to use a separate system for music: money, space, and wife constraints do not allow this.

Here is my set-up:

Receiver Denon X3200W - a recent upgrade from an Onkyo 605.

Front speakers: Tannoy Revolution R3.

Centre speaker: Tannoy Sensys C

Rear speakers: Mission m60i

Subwoofer: BK Gemini.

A bit of a mixed bag due to history and available bargains. The R3s were bought when I had just a stereo set-up.

Sources:

Stereo from iPod Classic via Onkyo ND S1 digital dock connected by optical. Most tracks have come from CD and use either Apple Lossless or AAC 320kbps VBR.

5.1 from BluRay or HDDVD in DTS MA or Dolby TrueHD via Panasonic BD35 or Toshiba EP35. I still have quite a few HDDVDs with some favourite music (and a few films).

My ideal is to close my eyes and imagine that the performers are actually in the room.

One particular topic that interests me is the bass management.

Classical music covers quite a range. Two broad categories are: orchestral and chamber. Obviously, imaging that a whole orchestra is in my house is stretch. My room is a little small even for a realistic chamber performance but much closer. If the optimal settings for these two genres or the two sources are different then I am willing to tolerate that.

Orchestral: the lowest note from a standard double bass is about 41Hz but many can go down to 32Hz and this is used occasionally. An extreme case is R Strauss's Also Sprach Zarathustra (the 2001 music) which starts with a 16Hz organ note.

Chamber: mostly the lower limit is about 64Hz (bottom note of a cello) but the double bass features occasionally and the piano can also go lower. So, again down to 32Hz would be good.

So far, I have just run Audyssey and not overridden anything that it has done. This seems to be a good start and it already sounds better than the Onkyo.

(Frequencies above are approximate but quite close.)
Hello

A well-experienced dealer told me most clients start from pops, rocks, etc., then jazz, classical jazz etc. and lastly classical music due changing of taste, age and improvement of affordability.

As I belong to the elder generation, as most students, I starts my explosure to church music, appreciation of classical music at secondary school. But now most people follow the general path as mentioned. Dont know if that makes sense to you.

Do follow your heart...:)
 

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