Odd Blue Convergance & New SMPS results

Alaric

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Hi There,

Had a drive out yesterday to deepest darkest Nofolk (actualy white and foggy, maybe it was a digital projection) and saw Henery and picked up a 'new' SMPS. Got it home and pluged it in and nothing.....A quick check with a voltage tester showed that there wasn't even power to the 'do not touch' live heat sinks, which made me check the power lead and in previous testing i'd obviously blown the mains fuse....New fuse and panic over, standby worked and then pressing the remote button caused my favorite we beastie to spring into life and the tubes fired up.

The picture was iffy, but a lot sharper than when testing with a Non S (1705) SMPS, so that was also good. A check of the 17.2v point and it was a touch high, so i re-adjusted. Checking the width as Henery had sugested (15hz internal patern, width to 95, ULTRA careful checking on Horizontal output board regulator, as shorting can vaporise tubes!) gave me 48.5V which is within the 48V-52V he'd said was good, but increasing to near the 52V would give more width which the 808s tends to need for 16:9. Upping to 51.6V, gave me too much width (4:3), so i nudged back down again to 51v.

Re-adjusted G2 as a couple were on when i checked, and then a quick manual focus, then electronic and onto geometry and then convergance and i had a nice picture again.

Starting the PJ up this morning and the convergance apeared a lot more stable, prior to SMPS replacement it was taking a good few minutes to walm up and become stable, which i thought a touch odd for an EM set (my 808 non S was very quick), Now its more like 20 seconds which is nice, though i like to try and leave the white field walm up routine for the 20mins it recomends.

In Convergance, i seem to have an odd error, particularly with the blue, where the left hand side is out at the far edge. Its not new to the SMPS, it was there before, I just hadn't gotten round to mentioning it. Its like the far side areas are too wide, adjust down and the left hand edge comes in, but throws the edge of its area out closer to the centre - Does this make sense, the adjustment is all in the one box.....It basicaly means that the last blue line kicks towards the edge of the screen....Its minor, but irritating.

The setting i was playing with, was 4:3, which is within the centre of the tubes, yet on 16:9 the patch which has problems is way within the image, yet the edge of that is also off....so i belive its a setting somewhere, maybe lens flapping, or edge focus, but so far its eluded me....any ideas.

Also a real basic question, what size fuse are people using in thier plugs....I'm Curious as i've not particularly thought much about it, but the one that blew was 3amp, which seems low, though if it had been running fine on that maybe its not so silly....however i also wonder how many people are just running on the obligatory 13amp ones !

cya,
Lee
 
I think these things pull a few hundred Watts.
I use 13A or a bent screw, can't remember which - what's good for a 3kW fire should be good for the PJ.
 
Hi There,

Incidentaly the PJ is wired to my cinema consumer unit with its own 16amp (minitrip) fuseway and then the lead is hard wired to a fused (3 or 5amp) and switched appliance conection (no light)....When installed a consumer unit for the cinema I over spec'd it (its one of my typical failings, any building works i undertake won't fall down, they may sink however) and had a spare fuseway so thought i'd indulge the PJ.

cya,
Lee
 
Out of interest, how many hours did Henry talk to you, and did you have your six cups of tea from the chipped mug?

With your convergence off, are your picture raster widths correct? I'm wondering if you're maybe having to push the edges a bit hard with the convergence controls.

Also, on my old BD801s, the raster was large(r) in comparison to the picture (Barcos are like that apparently) and things could wander a bit at the extreme edges without screwing up active picture area.
 
Hi There,

I was only there 5mins or so, which was a fair drive (150 round trip). He was exceedingly busy as it was his last day for shipping.

I drove over as he can only ship to my cards registered address, which would be my home. However i am at work today and this would mean city link would post a card through my door and i would have to try and get it from them Friday afternoon after my works Christmas do, or Saturday and i thought that was leaving it a bit too late for my liking....so i jumped in the car and went to pick it up.

I knew he was busy, so it was a pay and grab thing....he did however tell me about setting the width and gave me an RGB driver board as i mentioned that i had a candle flicker thing happening that i hoped the new SMPS may cure - He said it wouldn't (correct) and that it was a combination of RGB driver board and another board....as such its a lucky pairing that doesn't flicker, so what may flicker together in one PJ, may not in another but it was more luck or trail and error - Put the board in this morning (Only ever change one item at at time in my book, otherwise you don't know what caused whatever is happening).

I did get the feeling, even from the phone call that we could both talk the hind legs of a projector stand.

I didn't even get any tea :(

Cya,
Lee
 
Can you post a picture of the blue ???

Im away over the Crimbo period (CUE start of the Riots :D )

But as said above the conv. system sometimes seems to do this, I have a PJ that does that with the blue as well, picture is perfect but conv grid seems wierd. Its related to another setting but I have never found out what.........One day I will look into it.

OH I have noticed that if you run a real wide image on the tubes this does happen more often - there is a balance between largest possible useage and best possible........
 
Hi There,

Last night was my wife's Christmas do, so i thought i'd have a quick tweak and watch something fun...as it was i spent all evening tweaking :rolleyes:

When doing a PJ install, i've always found centering the raster difficult/confusing. The green is usualy fairly easy, as its the first one once the screen goes dark your always sure which it is and i've never had a problem with moving it.

Red & Blue however seem difficult, with remotes and bits your never sure which one your one, blue is particularly difficult here and even if you go through it two or three times the damn thing often fools you....also sometimes when i've done it, i've had a very un-responsive raster, ie you get to 0/99 and the thing doesn't actualy move much.

Last night after reading some bits of Curts forum, i found the trim pots to shift the raster (focus & H Shift Board), which i found a damn sight easier to actualy use....however while sat under the PJ you can't see the raster, so i nudged onto the + patern to see the shift on the screen (from turning the pot, albeit a reversed movement), then corrolated this to what i wanted the raster to do. I did the centering by eye, but hope to go back and pop the lenses to measure....I found the blue to be shifted wrongly !

After that and reading more of the thread i found something that I'd belived there must be a way to do way back on my BD800 and had never found an answer, and thats to shift the Red & Blue + up & down in the alignment stage. I've always managed to get the toe in correct, but even with the play in the lens mountings, have found that the vertical movement is limited....and thats because it can be tweaked with the pots on the Vertical output board !

The Installation manual is sorely lacking here....as it only mentions toe in, but i guess the height is factory set, and the installation manual incorrectly asumes its the initial installation :mad:

So i did some basic installation tweaks, then re-focused the blue and red lenses, as toe in would affect this. I couldn't do lens flapping on my own, so left that for the mo. Then I figured the convergance would line up better.....However after re-setting to midpoint, if found that it was actualy worse...The blue is now off by half a block and the red which was touch and go, is also off on the last line !

I set the width pot (SMPS sub board) back to 48, but while altering the max width, it did nothing for convergance....Although what width is it setting, is it the picture within the raster, or the overall size (ie the raster) ?

So I guess my lens flapping is going to be out, which will affect my edge focus, i know that focus does affect the convergance, but could this be giving me a nasty convergance error ???

Cya,
Lee
 
For intial setup I centre all the convergence controls, and stick my face down the tubes and look directly at the rasters. I get them centred and of the same sizes on the tube faces. Then I do the toe in.

At this stage the centres should be already converged (with no convergence fiddling made at all at this stage), the heights the same and of the same width. Convergence controls are then used to adjust 2nd order (well, first....) distortions.
 

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