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Newbie with barco 800 questions

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by flibble, Mar 18, 2003.

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  1. flibble

    flibble
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    Last week I bought a second hand barco 800 data. Welcome me to the CRT club :)
    I've been setting it up over the last couple of days but a couple of questions have come up.

    1) I had some issues with the green tube being a bit bright, so that when viewing films with low light bits (lots of greys) it came out with a bit of a green tinge. I found some controls on the right hand side of the projector (when viewed from the back in a table mounted setup), that appeared to alter the tubes brightness individually (and a set above them that seemed to alter focus). I changed the settings and now have a picture with great colours. What I want to know is if I have used the correct settings? Or have I in fact twiddled something that merely affected the tube brightness as a side effect? Also are these the same settings being described in the other barco 800 thread? And can I use that threads advice to make sure they are set correctly?

    2) Tube life, always interested in making the machine last a nice long time, I'd appreciate any advice on making the tubes last. I've already made it use all the phospher it can (it goes just about to the edge), lowered brightness and contrast in theory should do less damage and avoiding TV channels with static logos should all help, but is there anything else I can do?

    3) I have PDFs of the owners manual and installation manual (for the 800 graphics) that I found very very useful, but neither of them describes the settings I changed on the right hand side, are these documented anywhere? Online? Offline and for sale? Also are there manuals for the 800 Data, that may be more appropriate, around?

    4) When doing a the setup there was a section on doing diagonal focussing which mentioned screws (or other adjustments) on the front of each lense. My lenses didin't have the adjusters on, so I skipped that sections, Is this normal ? Mine has Delta HD8 lenses (if that makes a difference).

    5) The software on the projector is version 2.00, which seemed to differ from the 800G manual with regard to making colour adjustments. Is there a newer version of the software for the 800D and what difference does it make ?

    Wow, that's a lot of questions.

    Any help on these would be much appreciated.

    Peter
     
  2. Gordon @ Convergent AV

    Gordon @ Convergent AV
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    Peter,

    I'm sure Roland will chime in with concise accurate answers.

    Those knobs you twiddled.

    The one that changed sharpness is the electrostatic focus control. The others that adjusted brightness ar G2 pots. They need to be set the way described in the other thread or you will serously shorten the lifespn of the tubes

    Once G2 and focus are set you use cut off/bias and drive/gain controls to adjust amount of each colour in low and high brightness areas of the image. This should be done after setting contrast and brightness controls. After doing this greyscale adjustment you should go back and check contrast and brightness.

    The adjusmtents on lenses are for edge/corner focus. I am not familier with your device so Roland or someone else will have to answer that.

    Hope you get it all tip top inthe end.

    Gordon
     
  3. flibble

    flibble
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    Thanks Gordon, always helpful to know when you're making a potentially fatal mistake :)

    I'll run through Gerni's advice as soon as possible.

    Peter
     
  4. gerni g.

    gerni g.
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    hi flibble,

    first, the data has no scheimpfug adjustment screws, that´s reserved for the graphics.
    there are some tweaks to dye build scheimpflug but it´s a mess to adjust.
    better you give roland a call, maybe he can supply you with the hardware.

    the more phosphor you use, the better. keep a minimum of 3-5 mm to the sides at the long side of the trapezoid. do this with your active image and don´t forget blanking.

    as far as i know there is no color adjustment with software 2.0.
    set g2 like i described and afterwards defocus the blue slight a little bit. display a pluge testpattern and look at the white field. this will look a little yellow. now turn the electronic focuspot clockwise untill the yellow tint disappears. if you do to much the yellow gets badder. from my experience you will come very close to good color rendition just with proper g2 and defocus adjustment. for the defocusing set brightness and contrast to 50.
    if you have difficulties seeing the exact defocus point, turn contrast to 70. this makes it easier.

    for employing the color adjustment you need new software and hardware. there´s a chip with the software in the controller which must be changed and the quaddecoder board has to be replaced by one with a subboard.

    happy fiddeling,

    g.
     
  5. flibble

    flibble
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    Thanks Gerni, I've got a good colour balance now, with the G2's turned down. It now has a good
    brightness level (in a darkened room) with brightness and contrast set to 50. So there is
    a fair bit of range available if I need to tweak via the controller.

    Peter
     
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