New projector focus issue

pixel8

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Hi all.
I have recently had a warranty replacement Optoma UHD42 and I believe (hope) it "is" new and not a refurb.
Since setting it up in the original position of previous PJ there is a very obvious issue with the focus. If i focus the top, the bottom
focus is out and if i focus the bottom, the top is out?
With an accurate horizontal and vertical level, the focus is good about half way up to top of picture but loses focus
from half way to the bottom of the picture. I've posted a pic to explain better. The keystone is zero and the vertical shift is almost
at max but even moving the pj up or down from vertical centre doesn't change the problem...Any ideas?
Many thanks in advance
Kind regards
Smiley:)
 

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Anyone help... :lease:
 
Sounds like your pj may possibly not be true, have you has a spirit level on it?
I have and it’s vertically and horizontally level…🤔
Ill say also that this pj replaced another optoma uhd42 which didn’t have this issue… looking for the most likely cause but also wondering if the pj could be faulty?
 
Don't leave it a moment longer, reject it and get another replacement and insist it is new.
 
I have and it’s vertically and horizontally level…🤔
Ill say also that this pj replaced another optoma uhd42 which didn’t have this issue… looking for the most likely cause but also wondering if the pj could be faulty?
It was just a thought and the most obvious thing it could be, sound like it could be faulty.
 
Don't leave it a moment longer, reject it and get another replacement and insist it is new.
Hi…so do you think it’s faulty then…what would cause the focus issue?
I bought the original unit from Richer sounds and got this one under warranty exchange from Optoma and the packaging was all sealed and looked new. Are there any other checks or tests i caN do to rule out a fault before contacting them? Thanks 🙏
 
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Hi…so do you think it’s faulty then…what would cause the focus issue?
I bought the original unit from Richer sounds and got this one under warranty exchange from Optoma and the packaging was all sealed and looked new. Are there any other checks or tests i caN do to rule out a fault before contacting them? Thanks 🙏
Your original one didn't have the issue. This one does. Therefore either your geometry has changed (which i believe you say it hasn't) or it must be faulty. Therefore it must be faulty. Either way, reject it forthwith. The longer you take they less chance you have of getting another.
 
Ok thanks- I’ll get on the phone to them now 👍
 
Your original one didn't have the issue. This one does. Therefore either your geometry has changed (which i believe you say it hasn't) or it must be faulty. Therefore it must be faulty. Either way, reject it forthwith. The longer you take they less chance you have of getting another.
Just out of interest did you contact Epson to see if the your unit was BNIB or a refurbished unit, to my understanding they do send out refurb replacement units to customers when pj's go faulty, not always though, I remember some years back how envious I was when my optoma had to go for repair 3 weeks mine took to get back, whereas people on the Epson thread was getting a 72 hour turn around the catch though being you was getting a completely different unit back(refurb) for the most part.
 
Hi.
72 hr turnaround- wow!
My unit is an Optoma UHD 42 and i never contacted them. My original was from Richer Sounds who then took my initial repair, sent it to Optoma then I received the replacement unit from them. When it arrived it was in a new,sealed, Optoma box. When i opened it up it all looked new, no marks etc but who knows these days?!!!
 
Could have been knocked in transit or simply not put together entirely correctly. Or may just be a faulty lens. These things happen. You are fortunate in a way, that you have already had one that focused correctly across the entire screen, so you know this one isn't right.
 
Yeah, i also set up my Optoma 300x in the same bracket etc and it shows no issues so another pointer to an issue with the other unit. I contacted Richer Sounds and the ball is rolling… thanks again 👍
 
Hi all.
Back again and rather puzzled. I set up the PJ (same one) received back from Richer sounds.
Again, sited as above, same bracket, levelled and other measurements as follows: Lens to screen is 3m 50cm; Middle of lens about 9" 1cm from ceiling; mid lens on screen side means it falls about 1" onto the black border at top of screen; and mid lens is central to the screen from side walls. I have it on keystone 1 as the pic border is slightly uneven this time (never needed it on before)? The lens shift adjustment is set to full to bring the picture up into the screen properly (had this before). So again, I believe all is well but I still have the same issue - Can anyone offer any further advice before I call Richer sounds?
I will say that it looks to me like none of the original seals have been broken or changed as they're exactly the same now as they were in my photos i took before returning it. :confused:
 
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Hi all.
Back again and rather puzzled. I set up the PJ (same one) received back from Richer sounds.
Again, sited as above, same bracket, levelled and other measurements as follows: Lens to screen is 3m 50cm; Middle of lens about 9" 1cm from ceiling; mid lens on screen side means it falls about 1" onto the black border at top of screen; and mid lens is central to the screen from side walls. I have it on keystone 1 as the pic border is slightly uneven this time (never needed it on before)? The lens shift adjustment is set to full to bring the picture up into the screen properly (had this before). So again, I believe all is well but I still have the same issue - Can anyone offer any further advice before I call Richer sounds?
I will say that it looks to me like none of the original seals have been broken or changed as they're exactly the same now as they were in my photos i took before returning it. :confused:
I would call optoma repair centre and ask what their diagnoses was and the repair made if any, you'll have a serial number on the machine so it should be an issue getting the information from them.
 
So unit was returned (again) to Optoma and sent back to me with a new lens and the issue is still there! Optoma have asked me to provide video evidence of the fault as i see it but I only have a mobile phone that seems impossible to film that...Any ideas?

PS. I'm wondering if they'd send someone out to check my set up (although i'm sure it's all fine)?
 
Don't use keystone.

Set the picture square.

Measure from centre of image to 4 corners, should be exactly same.

20220702_233840.jpg



If one corner is out vertically and horizontally, pitch, roll and yaw is out.
 
If the top of the picture is shorter than the bottom for example, the light travels a shorter distance at the top.

The image has to be square to have even focus.
 
If the top of the picture is shorter than the bottom for example, the light travels a shorter distance at the top.

The image has to be square to have even focus.
Hi 3rdignis ;)
Thanks for your advice and the link. I thought I had done all that but I'll go over it again later and get back to you. For reference, I haven't used keystone, lens shift is at max and zoom is at minimum as it just fits the screen?
Many thanks indeed.
 
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Hi 3rdignis.

I've checked everything as said and this is the best i can do. I've also left a pic of my pj on the mount as well. The problem is still there though?!! My levels previously were more accurate but the grid was more "off"?
 

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You're presuming that the case is square with the lens and it may not be. You need to twist and/or tilt the projector so that the image is square to the screen, then use the lens shift to align it to the screen.

For example:

If the top of the picture is narrower than the bottom, then tilt the projector upwards.

If the right side of the picture is shorter than the left side then swing the projector to the right.

It's easier if you can zoom the image back so that it fits well within the screen area so you can see if the picture is trapezoidal or not. However if I read correctly you already have it at minimum zoom to fit the image on the screen (any more and the image would be too big for the screen, unless I read this back to front?).

If I'm wrong and you are using maximum zoom to fill the screen then you may find that the image is a little softer because you're using a larger area of the lens and more likely to use an imperfect area of the lens. It gives a brighter image/shorter throw, but this can impact on image sharpness.
 
You're presuming that the case is square with the lens and it may not be. .

...However if I read correctly you already have it at minimum zoom to fit the image on the screen (any more and the image would be too big for the screen, unless I read this back to front?).
So you mean the lens may be on a different angle to the outer casing - i never thought of that?
Thinking about it, the last levels were actually taken before Optoma changed the lens! In any event, I did the Grid square above before I checked the levels and spent a good hour trying to align it all.
Regards the zoom yes - It's at MINIMUM zoom to fit the screen - max zoom would cover half the wall lol. It's still the same though - Obviously the grid squares aren't perfect, would it being off just a little bit cause that issue???
 
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Yes it can.

I don't want to come across as a snob, but you might not get perfect lens focus across the screen on a budget projector. To be honest even some more expensive ones aren't always perfect, especially with a lot of lens shift which you mention in your first post.

On the plus side you are at minimum zoom, which tends to yield the sharper image compared to being fully zoomed to the largest size (comparing short and long throw set ups of the same screen size). I once moved my projector much closer to the screen to test something out for a buyer and was surprised how much softer it looked, even once aligned and focused (JVC X500 I think it was).

I'd get it as square to the screen as you can using the grid as a guide. If it's 'not perfect' then you can't expect focus to be perfect (given the above comments). I know I've messed around with my installations in the past and found I could improve things just by better aligning the projector to the screen. I even pulled the bottom right corner slightly forwards on my fixed screen and then secured it in place because my grid was slightly off the edge for example.
 
...even some more expensive ones aren't always perfect, especially with a lot of lens shift...
Thanks very much and all very interesting. Does my set up look reasonably ok and regards the lens shift use at max - Is there a way i could avoid that e.g would having a longer mount help?
I also have "Image Shift" for H and V adjustment in the settings menu...what's that for?
 

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