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New CRT Setup - Help & Advice Please!

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by atrade, Mar 27, 2005.

  1. atrade

    atrade
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    Hi all,

    After finally finding a manual for my Seleco SVT-150 CRT Projector (Thanks Chris!) I am about ready to start designing my CRT setup.

    I am facing a few problems, firstly being the fact that I cannot drill into the ceiling :(

    I figure making a mount in the alcove would be the way to go but it would have to be pretty strong, anyone else done this?

    Also the room is about 15ft wide, if I place the projector right against the wall will I still be able to focus a good picture from 15ft away?

    Any ideas and suggestions greatly appreciated!
     
  2. Chris Frost

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    Hi atrade, the alcove idea could work but you should remember to leave some room for access to the sockets and switches at the back of the projector.

    A 150 works best when it produces a 6 to 7ft wide image. You'll get that size image when the throw distance is 9 - 10.5ft from the screen to the lenses.

    In your 15ft room with the projector up against the wall in the alcove you'll have about about 12.5ft throw distance once you've taken account of the length of the projector. That means a screen width of approx 8ft 3". That's still OK for a 150, and if your happy with the screen size then by all means go ahead.

    Your 150 weighs about 35Kg. If the alcove walls are solid then you will be able to use a wooden beam to span the gap. For a 2 1/2 ft alcove some 4"x4" should do it with some additional support under the ends (see pic). Come back to me if you need something stronger in steel.

    Regards
     

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  3. atrade

    atrade
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    Thanks for the reply Chris,

    I've just realised that I am going to have to leave room for the back like you say :(

    Dont fancy calibrating it when I cant see what I am doing!

    When I'm calibrating any CRT does the green have limited movement and the job is making the Red and Blue images match up with the green?

    The 8ft screen size is a bit big for my liking i think! That leaves me with an even bigger problem of mounting the projector more in the middle of my room :(

    Any ideas?
     
  4. Chris Frost

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    Yep, you're matching R&B to Green when converging. Before you begin to converge red & blue you need to set up the picture shape; the process is called Deflection. You do this with only the Green gun on (Page 21, controls P1 - P7). After this you shouldn't touch any convergence controls for the green gun.

    What's the problem with the ceiling? Is it not suitable or are you not allowed to hang the projector?

    Regards
     
  5. atrade

    atrade
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    The ceiling is ornate with plaster mouldings covering it, so using the ceiling is a definete no-no!

    I've just set the 150 up on a dresser for now to practice converging it, using the ceiling bracket to angle it up at the wall, Which i think is going to cause a nightmare for getting the thing in focus, or do the 150's have any keystoning options?

    Unfortunatley I dont have a remote for the system and am planning on ordering one from remotes4you website unless anyone has one for sale on here?

    I need the remote because without it I dont think I can enter the test grid, am i right?

    Sorry to ask so many questions, i'll get the hang of this soon enough!

    Also if anyone has the pronto ccf file for the Seleco 150 I would be extremely grateful! I can use that with my symbian 60 remote software and be a cheap ass and avoid buying the remote!
     
  6. Chris Frost

    Chris Frost
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  7. atrade

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    Thanks for that Chris, my manual arrived this morning, cheers for sorting that out for me.

    Ill give that site a try for the remote

    Ill post on here with my latest update depending on how far ive got!
     
  8. sinbrad

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    Correct me if I'm wrong here but I thought the test grid was produced by flicking a switch on the rear of the PJ?
     
  9. atrade

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    The switch at the back needs to be used in conjunction with the remote control (by pressing 0 twice) to get the PJ on the righ channel for the test grid to display.....

    If I run my xbox through scart one and flick the switch it shows the test grid but rolling on top of the xbox image.

    Guess its time to buy the remote!
     
  10. sinbrad

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    Guess I'll have to blow away those cobwebs! :)
     
  11. atrade

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    Right, decided to go with the floor mounted option for the time being, in the 150 manual hints and tip sheet that i got of Chris it says to adjust the tubes by undoing the bolts and moving the R and B until they match with the G.

    Do the tubes move up and down? I cant see any bolts or am I just being a blind git?

    Help! So near yet so far!
     
  12. Chris Frost

    Chris Frost
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    There are 4 bolts holding each tube. The two each on the top rail above each tube, and there are two deeper down holding the under side of the tube (see pic).
    Once the bolts are loose you can move the tube & lens assembly left, right (approx 2"), and up and down by about 1/2".

    Remember to centre all the red and blue convergence controls before you attempt the adjust the lens angle.

    Regards
     

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  13. atrade

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    A couple of new questions! I have the PJ set up on a dresser at the moment angled at the wall, the angle is not severa probably about ten degrees up.

    I have reset all the convergence controls to center and all three tubes look the same, but they seem to be off centre, ive undone the bolts and adjusted the R and G but I can only seem to get the centre boxes of the test grid to match up.

    On the actual lenses you have got your first bolt which seems to be some kind of zoom? And the second bolt which seems to be focus?

    Am I right?

    I cant seem to get a nice sharp picture with the centre few boxes of the grid and they only just seem to line up, any help please!!!

    Here is a diagram of my room as well to see if anyone has any better positions for floor mounting the projector.

    Cheers!

    Dimensions are in feet, sorry for the crap diagram!
     

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  14. Chris Frost

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    I hope that's just a typing error and you meant to say R and B. i.e. not the middle tube.
    That's right. That's why you need to converge R & B to overlap on Green. Concentrate on adjusting the R&B lens angles so that an area about the size of a dinner plate is converged bang in the centre of the test pattern. Everything else will come in with the convergence controls as you follow the instructions.

    No, these are both focus controls. The first bolt does the centre image focus, the second bolt is the focus for the edges of the image. You need to adjust both (centre first, then edge) for each of the three tubes to get a sharp image all over.

    Regards
     
  15. atrade

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    Thanks Chris, thats cleared a lot of things up for me!

    And yes it was a typo!

    I managed to get a reasonable picture last night although after watching a couple of films i noticed the right hand edge wasnt straight anymore. But I think that it wasnt straight to begin with it just took my eyes a while to adjust!

    The Blue tube is giving me problems now, I just cant seem to get a sharp picture, and it is displaying faint blue lines horizontally across the screen which are only really visible during dark parts of a movie.

    Can this be fixed? Is it a dry joint on a controller board or a component blown?

    Another question (Sorry for all the ???!!) I am currently projecting onto a dark blue wall with raised patterned wallpaper, I am going to try and build a screen at the weekend as I have limited funds! Whats the best material to use and do I just have to build a frame and stretch the cloth over it?

    Again sorry about all the questions, pictures coming soon!
     
  16. Chris Frost

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    The blue tube will look much softer than R & G, this is because blue phosphor isn't very efficient. The compromise made is to use a broader beam spot to excite and illuminate more blue phosphor. You get more light, but also a softer image.

    Turn the contrast way down and the brightness up, refocus blue the best you can, then reconverge.

    It's not your wallpaper then ;)

    Are we talking thin faint lines or broad fat ones. Thin suggests the blue G2 setting is too high.

    For a budget screen try using blackout material. Its the stuff used to line curtains and you can get in in white. Its about the cheapest solution other than a bed sheet and a pot of emulsion ;)

    Regards
     
  17. atrade

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    Suppose its time to buy the remote! Cant seem to adjust brightness or contrast without it :(

    The lines on the blue tube are thin, and what is G2 adjustment?
     
  18. Chris Frost

    Chris Frost
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    (dives for cover when he says) "an adjustment that should be left to an expert" :rotfl:
     
  19. atrade

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    If I thought anything on the PJ should have been left to an expert then I wouldnt have started :D

    Is it an adjustment direct on the tube?

    Just finished building the frame for the screen, going to attatch the blackout cloth to it tomorrow, ill up some pics when its all done and attatched.

    Wood for Frame + Brackets = £12
    Blackout Cloth = £9.98

    Not bad! :clap:

    At the minute the PJ is quite high up on a set of dressers, if I was to have it on the floor how far up the wall could I have the image starting? You said before that the 150 allowed for 18 Degrees of movement, how far off the floor would that allow the screen to be?

    And one last question for that day! Is there a way to adjust the brightness and contrast without the remote?

    Cheers!
     
  20. Chris Frost

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    G2 is like a base line voltage that determines how bright or dark the black level will be from each tube. Too low and the images will look artifically contrasty with poor black detail, too high and everything looks washed out. But there's a lot more to G2 than that.

    If you see faint diagonal lines then the G2 setting is definately too high. You should at least reduce the setting, but beware thast it will also change the colour balance of the picture. Do some searches of this forum to learn more about G2.

    At 18 degrees projection angle the base line of the picture will get 0.325 ft/mtrs higher for every foot/metre of throw distance.

    e.g. 9ft throw x 0.325 = 2.92ft higher (2ft 11")

    or 2.75 mtr throw * 0.325 = 0.894 mtrs higher (89.4 cm)

    just take the throw distance and multiply by 0.325 to get an estimate of the increase in the base line height.

    Regards
     
  21. atrade

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    I think the G2 adjustment will need doing, last night i noticed a blue border round the whole screen and th blue horizontal lines are starting to stress me!

    Another thing I noticed, while watching a DVD connected via SCART the picture is fine (Apart from the lines) but when I plugged my freeview box in I get kind of a striped colour effect across the whole picture?

    Any ideas anyone?

    Anyway a couple of pics for now!
    1 - The 150 in action for the first time (Bonus points if anyone can name whats playing on it!)
    2 - How the PJ is set up currently
    3 - The frame I built last night for the screen
    4 - The blackout cloth, only £9.98!! Bargain !!

    Ill attatch the cloth later on today when I get some new staples for my electric staple gun then ill post some pics!
     

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  22. atrade

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    Right update time!

    Ive finished building the screen, was a bit of a trauma trying to get the cloth even on the frame but worked out a technique in the end!

    Attatched the frame to the wall, made sure the Pj was level and straight, re-converged and sat back in amazment!

    The picture is just brilliant! Watched Team America on it last night and was just blown away by how well the DIY screen performs!

    Right onto the problems!

    Still cant work out where the G2 adjustment is, the R,G,B focus controls look like the G2 controls should be mounted below them but all there is is a blanking plate in its place. Im assuming the adjustment will be a pot that will need turning, the only over pot I can see is one at the back of each tube on the neck board.

    Are these the pot's i'm looking for??

    As mentioned in the above post, I am getting a blue border around the whole picture and the extreme top left of it refuses to join with the rest of the image :(

    Someone please help!
     
  23. Chris Frost

    Chris Frost
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    Have you focussed both parts of the blue lens?

    Blue convergence - top left - does nothing happen when you alter the convergence control for the blue left corner, or is it just that there is not enough adjustment available?

    Sorry I can't help with G2 on a 150. It's not something I've ever done with this age of projector. Can anyone else help???

    Regards
     

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