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Need some help on DVD players with Component Out Please

Discussion in 'Blu-ray & DVD Players & Recorders' started by Splinter, Jul 24, 2002.

  1. Splinter

    Splinter
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    Hey all

    I've got a 42" Tosh RP arriving this weekend and i'm now in the market for a multi region DVD player in the price range of 150 -200.

    I was all ready to get the Sony NS700, but now i realise it doesn't have Component Video out which is a damn shame as it looks like a great player. I guess I could always just use RGB for it but it seems like a waste not use the component inputs on the Tosh.

    So then the the other choice seems to be the Toshiba SD220 which is pretty well specced and has component outs. Only problem is I keep seeing that unles you have 1.4 firmware or above you may have some problems. I phoned richer sounds earlier (which is where i need to buy from) and they reckon they're still on the v1.3 batch. So it could be quite a bit of hassle if I go for this model having to send it back to toshiba etc.

    Anyway, would love to hear any other suggestions, maybe there's a player i'm missing with component out - doesn't seem like many offer it at this price range.

    Cheers
     
  2. Reiner

    Reiner
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    was all ready to get the Sony NS700, but now i realise it doesn't have Component Video out which is a damn shame as it looks like a great player. I guess I could always just use RGB for it but it seems like a waste not use the component inputs on the Tosh.

    The difference between using component or RGB (via SCART) is the place where the conversion to RGBHV takes place as this is the signal required by the CRT (aka the "tube").

    Thus using RGB would mean the DVD player does the conversion while using component means the TV will do it.

    Under normal circumstances I would say RGB and component connections are equally good.
     
  3. poggs

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    Get the tosh 220e from

    www.dvdplayers.co.uk

    I got mine a month ago and it was 1.4 firmware then.

    Its only richer sounds that are still shipping the 1.3. They bought wads and got that company whos name I can never remember to hardware mod them all. Now they're stuck with them and palm them off to all the dafties who dont know any better!
     
  4. Jase

    Jase
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    Hi

    Try Leconcepts for the Tosh Here

    cheers:)
     
  5. Splinter

    Splinter
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    Thanks for the help guys. Well after seeing the Toshiba 510 multi-region going for 239 I couldn't resist and went with that. Too good to miss at that price I reckon.

    Just another quick question guys - I'm a bit confused which cables i need for audio. I understand the usual stereo phono connections, but i've got no idea about the coaxial and optical. How many and which type of cables do i need for this type of connection?
     
  6. Peter Shilton

    Peter Shilton
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    To listen to sound in Dolby Digital you need either optical or Coax connectors to the TV.

    Ours takes them both. Personally I brought optical. You will find people on here who say coax is better but I bet 99.9% of the population can't tell the difference. Don't waste your money on a dear one either.

    When you have connected the digital cable, when you put a DVD on (say on EXT 4) and press the sound setp button you get all the settings.

    Hope you are as delighted with your tosh stuff as I am.

    What do you use for front speakers? Did you get the free Eltax ones
     
  7. Splinter

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    Thanks for that Peter.

    Ill be using just the built in speakers for now as I've gone a bit too far over my budget at the moment hehe. A speaker setup is next on the list though.

    So I need 3 Component cables and 1 optical lead - have i got that right?
     
  8. Peter Shilton

    Peter Shilton
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    yes.

    I brought some decent component leads, but according to some on here you can use audio lead just (almost) as well.

    You do need some external front speakers though, otherwise the front doesn't sound as good as it should. Even connect some hi fi speakers and it makes a big improvement. Have you the 42WH18P, with Dolby Digital?

    Did you get the stand? If not, where are you going to put all your other boxes/

    These are all problems that i am still sorting!
     
  9. Splinter

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    I'm getting the 42WT29 - same model as yours just with a free to view digital thing inside. No stand either, so my xbox and dvd player will either go out front on the floor or on a nearby shelf depending on how long the cables are.

    Also, i didn't realise the sound was so bad - I'll see if I can find some hi fi speakers hanging around.
     
  10. Peter Shilton

    Peter Shilton
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    Enjoy it.

    The stand k=makes it sit up too high, and the external spekers ruin the "contempory look. And you needa sub woofer too.

    I had the "free eltax active tower speakers. they sounfd brilliant, the sub sounds brilliant, but they dont pass the wife test. They will have to go as soon as I can find something better.
     
  11. Splinter

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    Cheers mate - gotta be better that my 5 year old second hand Grundig 17" ;)

    Once my bank balance looks more healthy I'll work on the sound side of things.
     
  12. nwgarratt

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    My Sony DVP-NS900V has component output.
     
  13. Justin@UH

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    I agree. The only reason component is on a lot of budget models such as the Tosh SD220e is because the manufactures can just leave the feature enabled on the models all through the world, and in europe just add a scart.

    I honestly think that buying a DVD player with component is a waste of money, if you`re going to buy a DVD player with Component out, make sure it supports Progressive scan, along with the Tv or projector / display. Otherwsie just buy a decent scart lead and use RGB - You won`t notice the difference...
     
  14. poggs

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    Except in those circumstances where you cant use RGB scart. Like in mine!

    ie my Toshiba tv has 3 scarts, only one RGB enabled and thats connected to my TIVO via rgb. Thus I dont have another rgb slot for the DVD player. In those circumstances Component is a godsend, allowing me to watch DVD + Tivo in the highest quality.

    Otherwise, I agree, there does not seem to be any difference between RGB scart and component on my TV. Big difference between component and non rgb scart though.
     
  15. Splinter

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    Agreed Poggs, I needed my RGB scart for my xbox really so component is the ideal solution. after getting everything though i've just found out my Tosh RP doesn't support progressive scanning - doh! Ah well the picture's still damn good using interlaced.
     
  16. Reiner

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    I honestly think that buying a DVD player with component is a waste of money ...

    Should IMHO read: "I honestly think that buying a DVD player because of component is a waste of money ..." unless you need it like poggs explains. Also consider connecting to a proki, not all may support RGB.
     
  17. jiggy

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    I'm in the same situation (42WH18B with GC, X-box, Digi-box and SD220 DVD) but one question:

    Where can I buy a component video cable online?
     
  18. jiggy

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    Whats the difference between 1.3 & 1.4 firmware. What does it mean? I just bought a SD220 DVD for my 42WH18B from unbeatable.co.uk.

    Should I be worried?
     
  19. Nic Rhodes

    Nic Rhodes
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    I can't say I agree with this. Component is the 'natural' format on DVD. All RGB Scart DVD players then convert component internally to RGB. It then goes through a really awful connector. The internal processing of many TVs then convert the RGB signal from the Scart bach into component for the usual digital processing before finally driving the display device.

    If fed with component then this goes through only one set of conversions and is better again. Most Toshiba / Loewe owner with the option of both use components. Many have upgraded for just that reason.

    Now I wonder what the users of really big display devices use? The ones that can really show the difference ;)

    Progressive scan is a lovely idea but many actually prefer a decent interlaced picture rather than the mediocre PS that comes equipped internally with many tv nowdays. Try before you buy, I have yet to find someone who prefers RGB on my Toshiba when they try and most argue the case for RGB before they try. In fact I have seen many players that show a better SVideo picture than RGB Scart, particularly with Toshiba and Tag players.

    All PS is not equal.
     
  20. Peter Shilton

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    Jiggy

    I bought my Ixos component cable from Music Matters in solihull. The website is crap but the cables are OK.

    There are people on here who can find the same thing for a fiver cheaper, but is it worth the hassle?

    Mind you, personally i cannot tell the differance between the £40 IXos cable and the cheap crappy cables that came with the TV that look like hi fi cables. Apparantly to the experts you need 75Mhz cable.

    As to 1.3 and 1.4, apparantly it can cause some problems on things like Matrix etc. look at http://www.avforums.com/frame.html?http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42374 for more details. ( It is under SD220 problems, anyone else ) All you need to know on our tosh.

    BUT, I think mine is ace.


    Hope this is of help.http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42374
     
  21. Reiner

    Reiner
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    Apparantly to the experts you need 75Mhz cable.

    You mean 75 Ohm cable. IMHO a normal Video interconnect x3 will do the trick, too.

    I totally agree with Nic except for the following statement:

    Progressive scan is a lovely idea but many actually prefer a decent interlaced picture rather than the mediocre PS that comes equipped internally with many tv nowdays.

    That IMHO applies if you compare the internal PS processing (e.g. Sony's DRC) with a DVD signal and no processing applied, but feeding a true PS signal from a compatible player (and thus bypassing any internal processing of the TV) will be better than an interlaced pic.
    Problem is only there aren't many PS capable CRT TV out there though again we could argue if PS is really necessary for "small" screens (up to 36"). ;)

    If you have a projector or plasma then PS is surely the way to go, either fed directly from the player or using an external de-interlacer / scaler.
     

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