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Need Electrical Advice...

Discussion in 'Home Cinema Building DIY' started by thedoc, Jun 30, 2005.

  1. thedoc

    thedoc
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    Ok, maybe not the best place to post this, but I can't find anywhere better and I know someone here will have an answer to this query :

    Am I correct in thinking that a dual channel central heating programmer (HW and CH on seperate channels) is basically an electronic, relay operating timeswitch ?

    I am building a bespoke vivarium (reptile accomodation) and need to be able to accurately set timings for two devices.

    One feed is to the thermostat and is very low current draw as it simply signals day and night to the stat - I'm reasonably comfortable this one will be ok.

    The second feed is the power for the fluorescent UV tube controller, which appears to be a transformer/ballast unit. It is this feed I am not so sure whether I can switch via the proposed central heating programmer.

    :lease: Anyone out there know the answer to this ? :lease:


    The plan was to build the programmer into the unit to give a nice control panel rather than using bog-standard mains time clocks which are currently used now and look unsightly.


    P.S Mods please feel free to move this if you feel in the wrong area.
     
  2. Johnny Thunder

    Johnny Thunder
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    Do you have technical specs for the controller?
    You need to look at the rating for the contacts.
    What voltage/current they can switch.
    Remember though, a fluorescent tube rated at say
    20w, uses a lot more power on startup.
    If you are unsure, use the controller to operate the
    coil of a second relay, and a normally open contact
    on the relay to strike the light fitting.
    hth.

    Johnny.
     
  3. thedoc

    thedoc
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    One of the programmers I looked at was stating 3A (240V) on the channels.

    I see what you mean though, on firing the tube up the there is bound to be a big current draw. Presumably if I could find a programmer that can cope with 13A on a channel, or like you say wire up a robust relay that supports 13A then I should be okay I guess?

    Anyone else want to pass sound electrical advice on my hair-brained scheme?

    :rolleyes: ---> :suicide:
     
  4. Johnny Thunder

    Johnny Thunder
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    If it states 3A, that is more than enough Doc.
    I take it the tube is not something like 8'.

    Johnny.
     
  5. thedoc

    thedoc
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    No, the tube is around 16 inch or so long.

    The ballast & transformer is like those ones you see with tropical fish tanks.

    I guess I could also put a 3A fuse between the transformer and the programmer, and then at least it will protect from melt-down ! :rolleyes:
     
  6. wandgrudd

    wandgrudd
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  7. thedoc

    thedoc
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    I was going for the neatest solution that I can integrate into the cabinet design. Hence the reason for me looking at programmers.

    Nice timer in the link, but by the time I have wired two up I will loose space in the hidden section of the cabinet I am going to hide the electronics and wiring -- good idea though.
     

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