1. Join Now

    AVForums.com uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

n00b Help: Setting Up Sub

Discussion in 'Subwoofers' started by oVerCaffeinated, Dec 31, 2004.

  1. oVerCaffeinated

    oVerCaffeinated
    Guest

    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Ratings:
    +0
    I just got a new sub and I do not know how to connect it. I've searched the net for ages but are unable to come up with anything. The diagram that I got with the sub is unreadable due to the "+" wire actually being white, on white paper :mad: I've drawn out the setup in paint, all I need is a kind person to draw on the wiring.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Dfour

    Dfour
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    Messages:
    3,992
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    71
    Location:
    Bracknell
    Ratings:
    +85
    :hiya: and welcome to the forums.

    go left from amp to sub left, then to left on speaker. Repeat with the right side. Positve to positive and negative to negative etc.
    Im assuming the hfe and lfe are connected by metal spacers. If they are remove the metal bridge and use a small ammount of your speaker cable and bridge them with (right lfr-hfe/left hfe-lfe) to get the best out of them. You get 99% of the effects of bi-wiring without the costs. :lesson:

    Hope this helps :smashin:
     
  3. oVerCaffeinated

    oVerCaffeinated
    Guest

    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Ratings:
    +0
    Thanks, I'll try that and see what happens :) Although the diagram is completely different. It has one of the right speaker negatives connected to the left negative on the sub :confused:
     
  4. theo cupier

    theo cupier
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2004
    Messages:
    1,649
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Amersham, Bucks
    Ratings:
    +113
    Edited because I waas talking an inverted pyramid of piffle about the connectors! nothing to see here.

    Thanks for the advice Ian
     
  5. Ian J

    Ian J
    Banned

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2001
    Messages:
    25,529
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    166
    Ratings:
    +4,906
    In the days before 5.1 I used to have my REL connected to the same speaker terminals on the amp as the speakers were but in my case I had three leads to connect.

    What is the make of sub that you are trying to connect ?
     
  6. theo cupier

    theo cupier
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2004
    Messages:
    1,649
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Amersham, Bucks
    Ratings:
    +113
    Ian - making the purchasing decision at the moment. It's between: MS309, XLS200, Vita 100.

    It's to go with:
    DSP-E800 proc (low level connection for 5.1 movies, via tosh SD220E DVD)
    B1 amp (for front L/R and sub high-level for audio sources)
    Rogers LS4a fronts
    Wharfdale Diamond 7.1 rears
    Dynaudio 42 centre


    Recommendations on sub welcome, btw. I'd rather spend at the MS/Vita level (£200) but would stretch to the XLS if it was worth the extra...

    EDIT TO SAY: I know the XLS and Vita can handle low and high level connections simultaneuosly, not sure about the MS309... that may be the killer reason against the 309 if it can't.

    Oh also downward firing might be v useful with 3 young kids, but not essential!
     
  7. Mandel

    Mandel
    Guest

    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Ratings:
    +0
    Overcaffienated> Does your sub have 4 pairs of speaker connections on it? Also I assume it is an active sub (ie has its own amplifier)?
     
  8. oVerCaffeinated

    oVerCaffeinated
    Guest

    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Ratings:
    +0
    OK, my old sub, it had 4 plugs for the sub "in" and 4 plugs for the sub "out". This sub only has 4 plugs called "in". It is a Wharfedale PowerCube 12". Here is a pic of the back:

    [​IMG]

    The diagram confuses the hell out of me, maybe if they had actually printed it properly I might be able to read it :mad: Maybe it's time for an amp upgrade? But it would be nice to see how it runs on my old Sony :p
     
  9. Mandel

    Mandel
    Guest

    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Ratings:
    +0
    That is very odd. I hope your amp has a line level sub out?

    I had a look at the Brochure for that amp, all the ones in that range except the top one only have 2 pairs of inputs and no outputs. :suicide:
     
  10. oVerCaffeinated

    oVerCaffeinated
    Guest

    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Ratings:
    +0
    OK, with enough light I think I was able to read the diagram, it goes like this:

    [negative = green, positive = red]
    [​IMG]

    Does this look like it could work? For the single wire connections should I use one strand of the speaker cable or both?
     
  11. Nimby

    Nimby
    Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2004
    Messages:
    9,198
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    136
    Location:
    The Danish Bacon Factory
    Ratings:
    +669
    Simplify. You seem to have redundant duplications in your diagram.
    If the sub is active it will accept seperate L&R signal but still play mono.
    The sub has no output terminals so you cannot use the sub to filter your main speakers. So all it needs is a speaker lead (Pos + Neg) from each speaker to the sub. Or just from the amp speaker terminals. Not both.
    (It depends on which cabling you prefer for neatness or shortest cable)
    This assumes your choice of sub can cope with a stereo feed from 4 leads. Some (like REL) can only use 2L + 1R. Or 2R +1L.

    Nimby

    Sorry: I made a typo there. I meant Pos + Neg not L+R concerning the speaker leads to the sub from the speakers.

    Just bridge between the HF & LF terminals on your speakers (respecting pos and neg) as recommended earlier.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. oVerCaffeinated

    oVerCaffeinated
    Guest

    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Ratings:
    +0
    Thanks Nimby :thumbsup: I hooked it up as you directed and it's working. I'm not sure what I was to expect from this sub, but ATM I'm a little under whelmed. I'm going to be tweaking the settings for a while so maybe I'll find a sweet spot. I'm pretty sure the amp is holding it back from it's full potential so I guess I'll be upgrading the system one more time :zonked: Thanks everyone for all your help :clap:
     
  13. Nimby

    Nimby
    Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2004
    Messages:
    9,198
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    136
    Location:
    The Danish Bacon Factory
    Ratings:
    +669
    Try adjusting or reversing the phase of the sub relative to your speakers.
    It might help. It might not.

    Nimby
     
  14. Mandel

    Mandel
    Guest

    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Ratings:
    +0
    Nimby> The problem with that setup is that the main speakers are reproducing full range, the signal isn't having the bass removed. So you're going to get a big spike at and just below the crossover frequency and therefore not be able to have much of the lower bass. Not a criticism, thats how I'd wire it in that situation but as solutions go it's far less than ideal...
     
  15. Nimby

    Nimby
    Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2004
    Messages:
    9,198
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    136
    Location:
    The Danish Bacon Factory
    Ratings:
    +669
    I beg to differ. :)

    My 38Hz (-3dB) 753Fs run full range and my subwoofer rolls off at 60Hz.

    The neighbour's haven't complained yet. :devil:

    Have a look at my (sig) website link for my in-room frequency response.

    (you'll need a microscope) :D

    Nimby
     
  16. Nimby

    Nimby
    Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2004
    Messages:
    9,198
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    136
    Location:
    The Danish Bacon Factory
    Ratings:
    +669
    Sorry Mandel

    I had to go out so I couldn't answer in full. :blush:

    The theory goes that messing with the audio signal to the main speakers will ruin the sound quality of the main speakers. Particularly on music.

    The subwoofer is only supposed to underpin the bass from the main speakers. Not adding to the bass, but merely extending the frequency response downwards at the same output level.

    I'll readily admit that most HT/AV enthusiasts prefer to filter the bass out of their main speakers and let the subwoofer carry all the bass weight. This lightens the load on the main speakers and the main speaker amplifiers into the bargain.

    The real answer is to try both ways if the facilities exist. In this case they don't. Because the subwoofer can't roll-off the main speakers bass via high level output terminals and has no internal crossover.

    One can never really predict a spike or a dip where a subwoofer overlaps the main speakers. Sometimes there's phase cancellation. But sometimes not. In my own case there was a cancellation effect and I needed to raise the upper roll-off point of the subwoofer to fill in the trough. I really ought to investigate phase adjustment but it sounds too nice to mess about with it right now. :)

    Regards
    Nimby
     

Share This Page

Loading...