My Xbox one keeps disconnecting from xbox live every 5-10 minutes and keeps kicking me out of games

jackharvey02

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I like to play Tom Clancy ranked and rocket league ranked but every time i play it i get kicked out but it reconnects me 1 min after and it also kicks me out of parties.
Please help
 
I was having a similar issue, not quite every minute, but very often. Was connected wired, unplugged it and went wireless and it's been rock solid ever since. Very odd.
 
I like to play Tom Clancy ranked and rocket league ranked but every time i play it i get kicked out but it reconnects me 1 min after and it also kicks me out of parties.
Please help

Are you connected via wifi or ethernet?
What's your internet speed?
What type of modem/router are you using?
More information is needed for people to help you.
 
Mine is also doing it has been for several days now wireless connection
And I'm with virgin.
 
The best things to try are switch how you're connecting the Xbox to the router/modem.
Doing a hard reset of the console*, and resetting the router/modem.


*either hold the power button until the console turns off or use the reset option in the guide.
This produces the same result as holding the power button, the console will full power off, before starting from "cold".
 
Was also having this issue. I changed my wireless from 5ghz to the 2ghz and it seemed to resolve the issue (for now)
 
I've seen this problem with several types of wifi connections, not just consoles. The problem is more technical than you might think.
I benchmarked the error and packet rates for several routers over the years, using hardwire and wireless. Generally, when speeds are increased for the connection, the packets are burst at a higher rate, which leads to errors in the received packets at a higher rate. You also have the frequency band to deal with. The frequency band is higher, and the doubling of the signal packet along each burst signal means that the errors are doubled. So you are getting double the signal strength and speed, but 4 times the amount of error data, just due to wireless. Over hardwire, you are getting better speeds, and usually cleaner signal, but this decreases with distance and the quality of the cable. Since most in wall cable is cat5, you've got what the modern tech world calls low quality cable. Cat6 or 7 with an ethernet end will give you better quality shielding, and better cable in general. Using cat5 with modern routers, I was seeing about 3 times the error rate, with no adjustment to the speed added (you can put a QOS on things to level them out a bit).
What does all that mean?
Every modem and router keep track of error data on each connection so that they can make an adjustment to the signal to get the packet through properly. This happens very quickly, and is supposed to get cleaner as you average out the packet errors.
"I have 0 packet loss" doesn't mean squat. That just means you haven't had a packet not go through, which is not the same thing as adjusting for error to make it go through. A lot of firmwares today hide the error rates behind misleading values so that you are prone to worries about your connection. It's not false to say your packets haven't failed, but that's not the whole story either.
I've benchmarked a router by wiring it to a monitoring system, something wired to the main board of the router that gives me all the values passing through the processor and memory using the basic operating system underneath all the graphics you see in a special webpage stored on the router. The packet loss bounces up and down from 1-5 then back to 0, constantly. The error rates keep rising. Why? Once a packet goes through correctly, it's not lost. Real simple. The error rate is used to average out the changes to the signal necessary to properly send the packet.
All this tracking takes up memory, and most of these devices come with very little. The system takes up memory, then the extra programming of the functions, then the webpage, and then to add the error rates... ...It's a lot to put on such a limited piece of equipment. When this memory isn't flushed properly, so it can be reused quickly, you get problems with connections.
To quote the full problem more accurately:
If you have one device, using a faster connection shouldn't overtax the memory (so 5ghz connections or combined 2.4ghz\5ghz will work fine). Add more devices, and each one will add to the load on the memory, so the flush process will have a more difficult time keeping up. If a connection cannot continue to function until the next flush, it will idle the connection intermittently (this is known as lag, as it tends to jitter a little; some memory is flushed but it fills right back up again, then other memory is flushed and so on--it jitters until somebody resets their connection use or stops etc, or until all the memory is just on hold for too long). When the memory is all full up and held there for a long time, things appear to freeze or a connection appears "idle" like it hasn't changed, and the system then assumes the connection is off or unused. It marks the memory for a flush, and disconnects the connection before the flush; then it flushes only that connection's memory usage. This is what causes the intermittent disconnect. But to make matters worse, many ISP's will combine the two functions of modem (connected to ISP over a long distance run), and router (what splits connections between your devices) into one hardware piece, both using the same memory space!!! AHHHHHHHHH!!!!! NOOOOOOOOOO!!!!! Both sides will experience errors for different reasons, and flush at different rates.
With only wired connections, this is much easier to avoid, even with up to 15 devices. But people don't want to spend extra money on hardware just so they can work anywhere in their home (that's an extra $10-12k just to run the cables!), it's costly. However, there is a middle ground. I'll get to that, but for now let's move on to what causes error data.
Causes of error:
First, every connection should get some error data at distances of more than 10 feet, with cat5 (the most common, cheapest cable). If you get cat6 or cat7, that pushes to 20 feet. Note that I said you will get some error, not totally destructive error. As little as 1 error per 1000 packets. That said, this is hardwire we're talking about. IF you bend, kink, twist or shape it other than straight line, it will have some strained areas that affect how well the signal travels, but not by much. Placing consoles close to the routing device will increase the clean signal, allowing you to go for longer periods without a problem, but you'll have no control over anything beyond the modem gate. The modem gate is where the modem connects to your isp, and most people don't know or have much control over the wires that make that connection. Bad splicing, poorly placed power transformers (kitchen lighting is a horrible culprit lately, especially with older homes with old electrical systems), open terminators (the wall plugs that are just left open; put in a terminated plug that wraps the plug closed to help, and this is eased a lot, though not completely cleaned--a simple resistor capping of each open cableTV type plug on the wall or at splitters will help to close off some of this problem and offers some benefit to larger homes with more splitters, see an electrician for details), and other kinds of cable damage can degrade the packets before they reach their destination. Packets are repeated at a high rate, in the megahertz range down cat5, or ghz range at cat7. This means that an averaging of the repeats can produce a clean averaged packet, but when it doesn't, the hash packet that get's sent back is off by a little, prompting the packet to be sent again until it can be done right. This all happens relatively instantly, but with the errors being tracked, then averaged, and then used to make adjustments on the fly. This takes up some memory. Going from your home to the ISP has a bit of error rate, and it's usually flushed at faster rates than internal network memory use. Because the internal network has a shorter distance to travel, and fewer possible variances in the connection, it shouldn't have more problems. That only works with all hardwire connections. The internet service industry and the wireless technology industry haven't quite met up yet for functionality. In a vacuum, with one or two devices, and no other wireless routers nearby, no other sources of interference, WIFI works almost perfectly within the same error rates as hardwire. We all have WIFI now, so there are many signals around us, along with Cellphone signals, tv sets, microwave ovens, bluetooth devices, other wireless devices etc. This interference degrades signal and there are more errors. However, the packets are broadcast multiplicatively at a much higher rate than over hardwire (not a faster speed, I'm talking about the actual sinewave signal rate, the frequency of the radio signal), and there are more errors per packet, taking up more memory, much faster. With more devices in different locations, this is even worse. Put the modem and router together and you've got memory filling up from both ends of the device; add more devices of multiple types, with multiple signal broadcasts... ...You are taking up memory faster than you can repurpose it, with way too much interference.
What's the solution?
There's no one size fits all perfectly, but there are some options you can try. First, you can use one or two hardwire drops from your router into specific areas of the house. Place your main modem\router centrally to the building, to cut down on outside signal interference, then put in a drop in areas near the outside wall of the building and place an ACCESS POINT router there. This will allow you to connect some devices with a much cleaner signal, much faster, and still use a wireless connection. Second, set your main router to use a common wireless signal channel for your area, but set your outer ones to use a less common signal channel; this will make your main signal take on some interference, but your secondary routers will experience a lot less, and using a set channel forces the devices to use adjustments to the timing of each signal instead of switching channels which could cause disconnects. Third, Boosters are a great way to stretch the signal through your home, but they need to be placed where they won't cause excessive interference, or the problems will persist. Another solution involves placing your consoles and high-bandwidth devices in the room with the router\modem, then using hardwire to connect. This is a great way to work, but it limits where you place your consoles, and you often need to replan your home's layout to fit this. If these machines were designed to be mobile to begin with, you've just removed their mobility. By far the best option to mix wire and wireless is to use several accesspoints that are hardwired to a main, but wireless themselves.

EXAMPLE:
A gamer pal of mine (he does some design for them too and tests some) bought a large home and had me direct some remodeling of the electrical system. Basically, we redid the lighting power system to move the transformer out of the building to the back yard, along with several other transformers, placing them right next to the main box and running them from it directly on a different circuit than the rest of the house. We also made sure everything was properly grounded. Finally, we had them put hardwire drops in every major area of the house (1 wire drop to each room) leading back to a central box where the telecom connections come into the house. We dropped RG11, RG9, RG6, CAT6, and RJ45, all into that room (the garage), and routed a nice heavy conduit out to the yard where the pole would drop the connections in. It's overground, but hidden under shrubs and garden, shaded most of the day and shielded. This was a long building, with a small garage, medium backyard, small kitchen area. When the construction and all were finished, we placed access points at the outside walls of the house in each major area, and wired them to the main connection in the central office room, all were actually wired directly to the junction in the garage, which was well ventilated and all kept on the same wall. When we were finished, he had consoles in several rooms, some of which had multiple consoles, each connected wirelessly to their own signals, but to the same main network with a 50mb main ISP pipe. In all there were 6 consoles. When all ran online, it worked fine. When the computers were added, there was a slight lag. After setting QOS on the main line, giving the access points priority (just the wireless access point IP addresses, as the gaming systems will balance across those on their own), the games didn't lag anymore, and neither did the computers. Occaisionally, the ISP did send notices that their useage was high, in the 48mbps range, and that they might want to consider a higher bandwidth, dedicated fiber line, but when we asked about it, they said that it wasn't available in the area yet. Go figure. We get their service to work right, then they try to sell us something that doesn't exist yet. Will they ever figure out how their stuff is supposed to be set up?

What am I really saying? Before you switch your ISP, you might check with a contractor\electrician about any transformers in the building that might interfere, and then also try upgrading the connectivity of your entire home with a few drop lines and access points, rather than trying different isp's, none of which will be able to "FIX" the problem. Modern gaming systems are usually tested in a vacuum style lab when built, and so are connection devices. They are tested without external interference, so that they can make claims that are technically correct for a perfect situation, which nobody really has. By the way, the access points are old routers working at 2.4ghz, with a 150mbps total connection in that house. That's what we started with, anyway, and it worked. Keep them 3meters\yards from the devices to make sure you're getting a complete wave signal and amplitude. Cheaply put in a drop line, then put on your own router as an access point; if that doesn't help, set up QOS to prioritize the routers that are connected to gaming consoles. Then use your main signal for computers and such, which will allow them good speed, but keep everything connected on the same logical network so you can connect your devices to each other and share all your files and printers, or other services from your providers.
 

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