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my pj setup so far...

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by MAD ANDY, Dec 5, 2003.

  1. MAD ANDY

    MAD ANDY
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    ...unfortunately nothing on the scale of some of you guys with no expense spared lighting and spare rooms and loft conversions etc, but this does us for now anyway :D

    Managed to get the screen up on the wall an retractable to a point where we get a 72" diagonal screen in widescreen mode which suits us :D May have to move it up slightly though in to the coving area as, as you can see, when the image is setup to reach the black sideborders, it also creaps over on to the casing at the top, so moving the screen up a few inches should sort this (I know the obvious answer is to simply pull the screen further out a few inches DOH! but the top of the hearth fire place sticks out a bit and so does allow the screen to sit properly..... however mounting it on hooks out of one of the ceiling joists would allow this but would mean it didnt sit as neat on the wall and also the image would be smaller bringing it closer and so the zoom mode would have to be used which seems to show the pixelation up more. Anyway we are chuffed :D only amateur but thats our 32" TV that looks like a portable next to this and so this being slightly larger than 4 of our 32" screens put together keeps us happy :D just got to work out how I mount the pj on the ceiling now which I'm not as comfortable or confident about doing (in these pics its resting on a socket set toolbox on the back of the sofa DOH!)

    cheers

    screen discreetly retracted
     

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  2. MAD ANDY

    MAD ANDY
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    retracted completely
     

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  3. MAD ANDY

    MAD ANDY
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    retracted to the level we watch it at :D
     

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  4. MAD ANDY

    MAD ANDY
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    this pic taken with lights off but camera flash on (easy to see where it creeps over the casing)
     

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  5. MAD ANDY

    MAD ANDY
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    this pic with the lights off but my digital camera is less than 1.3megapixel and has no low light option so not best focus in the dark DOH!
     

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  6. MAD ANDY

    MAD ANDY
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    last pic taken before we moved in the house so I can see where the joists are if I need to move it forward (just wish i had done the same for the other side so I could see where to mount the pj on the ceiling, any tips for finding the joists??)
     

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  7. Bristol Pete

    Bristol Pete
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    You must like that show Andy...!

    Cap:)
     
  8. MAD ANDY

    MAD ANDY
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    FPMSL!!!! its the missus who likes it mate! ;) as you can see I conveniently only took pics of the laydies on the show...... ;)
     
  9. WeirdFish

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    last pic taken before we moved in the house so I can see where the joists are if I need to move it forward (just wish i had done the same for the other side so I could see where to mount the pj on the ceiling, any tips for finding the joists??)


    Most wiring detectors have a stud finder function that is useful. Or just drill small pilot holes until you find it.
     
  10. Quatermass

    Quatermass
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    I think you can actually buy or hire joist detector electro-gizmos. Sure I saw HandyAndy (not a forum member asfaik) using one. Might be worth trying the local tool hire shop

    Edit: yep, they do exist - www.electrical-distributors.co.uk/cat/itm00732.htm

    Not sure if I would want to buy one from someone who cannot spell metal though :)
     
  11. Seahorse

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    If you have had the ceiling artexed, you are wasting your money on a joist detector.

    My old man was an Artexer and the way to find them is a NO BRAINER. Use a ball pein hammer (rounded end) and gently tap across the plasterboard. You can quite litereally 'hear' when you are on one. The infallible confirmation involves an auger (or massive screwdriver if you're my Dad :zonked: ) push through to confirm the wood.

    One of those toothpaste tubes of Pollyfilla covers evrros nicely...
     
  12. The Hemulen

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  13. MAD ANDY

    MAD ANDY
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    lol does anyone still have that terrible stuff put on their ceilings nowadays? ;)

    nope completely flat and I do have a metal pipe detector gizmo thing, wondering if that will work?

    just found it at B&Q but it doesnt say it finds joists :(

    http://www.diy.com/bq/product/product.jhtml?PRODID=28855&CATID=62296

    this is what I'm thinking of using though to hold it to the ceiling:

    http://www.argos.co.uk/webapp/wcs/s...0001&langId=-1&catalogId=1001&productId=60232
     
  14. Seahorse

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    Homebase to an eletrical/pipe & stud detector in one. Cost me about 15. Didn't like artex though. Hammer worked just fine, already had that, would have saved £15...:mad:
     
  15. Woz!

    Woz!
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    Do what I've done and mount it IN the ceiling - just cut a slot for it to descend from :



    [​IMG]

    http://homepage.ntlworld.com/warren.alexander/ht/ht.html

    it looks like your joists run the right direction to do this too.
     
  16. silent lucidity

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    Nice job Woz!Very impressive indeed:smashin:
     
  17. silent lucidity

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    Forgot to mention I looked at your site;A very worthwhile thing to look at for some of you other guys.
     
  18. MAD ANDY

    MAD ANDY
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    Woz!

    looks very clever what you have done and although my missus loved the look of it hidden away from your pictures and even more so the look of the halogen lights, I made the classic mistake of showing her the other pics as well ie the ones with the upstairs floorboards up and she freaked at the idea of me doing the same as it looks a lot of hard work and although Im up for DIY, not 100% sure on how I would go about doing it all especially the halogen lights (where did you take your feed from?)

    Is that your main front room? or just somewhere to relax?
     
  19. Woz!

    Woz!
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    It's the main front room, hence why I wanted to hide the HT as much as possible.

    I'm really not a DIY person (ask my wife!) but I found this pretty easy.

    The halogens are just downlighters from B&Q - the power is taken from the ceiling rose ( which I've removed and artexed) and run accross from where it used to be, so I didn't need to do any significant wiring. The holes for the downlighters were cut with a little doohickey that you attach to a drill - it's like a drill bit with a saw blade in a circle around it and it cuts the perfect sized hole for the downlighters. I did the lights before the coving, so I was able to hide the cable runs that wouldn't go in the ceiling.

    The floorboards upstairs were a cinch - I borrowed a circular saw from a mate, set it to the depth of the floorboards and ran along where I knew there was a joist (as I could see where the nails had been put). They've all gone back in fine (stack the boards in order of removal, as they will vary slightly in size unless you make a perfect cut). in fact - now that they are back in place, it's not really obvious they were ever up - and we have the flooring upstairs sanded and varnished so it's not like I've hidden them under carpet.

    The only problem I could forsee would be if there was coving already in place - it's then a little difficult to hide wires that need to travel accross joists, where I just came down out the ceiling at the edge and run along where the coving would later cover.
     
  20. MAD ANDY

    MAD ANDY
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    I was going to ask how you managed to take wire from the ceiling rose and run it to lights around the room with all the joists in the way, never thought of using the coving! I assume the coving is not a flush fit on the wall then and there is space behind it? as if so this may be a way for me to also run the projector phono lead around the room also :D and can do a similar thing with the downlighters! :D I understand it will mean me removing the coving to do so, but looking at it I can only assume its glued in place and so should just glue back in place, and as its a new house and so we need to decorate anyway, no better time to do so! :D

    I see what you mean about the floor boards but being new I think we have that cheap chip board stuff and not fancy sandable stuff like you ;) so I will have to have carpet over mine anyway so even if I cut it wrong and it looked terrible it wouldnt be too bad, may have to look at doing a similar thing, just not sure if any piping is behind the area though that I would have to cut! Assume you used a checker gadget thing to see before cutting?
     
  21. theritz

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    Andy,

    No wish to butt in un-invited, but..........

    .. coving is normally put in place with a plaster-based compound, so be careful - you might find that trying to lever it off will damage the coving itself - if it's the gypsum type (plaster stuff covered with grey coloured paper, like the stuff in Woz's pictures), it crumbles at the edge very easily if you lever against it with the edge of a trowel, or similar.



    ........ Just make absolutely sure that you cut it in the MIDDLE of a joist, along the direction of a joist..................... if you cut it on the EDGE of a joist, then you'll have to put in another piece of wood along the edge of the joist in order to have something to attach the chipboard to when replacing it. If you are in doubt as to what's involved, try to find a chippy to do it for you as a nixer - you could save yourself a lot of grief

    BTW, if the chipboard sheet flooring is scred down, (which it should be, not nailed...) then you could just take up the panels and do the work you need to do, including any wiring, and put the panels back down afterwards.

    You should absolutely make sure that you dont go near any pipework - if you're doing the job yoursef, make sure that the depth of cut on the circular saw is set only to a depth equal to the thickness of the flooring.

    Sean G.
     
  22. MAD ANDY

    MAD ANDY
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    theritz

    no probs butting in mate :D thats what these forums are for, and without what you have said I may have just gone ahead and ripped them off the walls.

    hmm you got me thinking about it now though, seems a great place to losely hide wires, just depends at what cost ie replacing all the coving removed if needbe :(

    yeah see what you mean about the joists too, take it the only way to find out where one is is using a joist detector?
     
  23. theritz

    theritz
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    Andy,

    You'll know where the joists are by looking at the chipboard panels and seeing where they've been screwed (or nailed :mad: ) down.

    Look, don't take this the wrong way, but the nature of the questions you're asking indicates that you should be getting this done for you, as opposed to doing it yourself - that's not meant to be snotty or anything - I've learnt my lessons, some the hard way :eek: over the years, and I wouldn't recommend this as a first time foray. It's a straightforward job in one way, but then they're all straightforward, once you know what you're doing.


    If you get someone to do it for you and hang about and see what they're doing, then you'd be better able to tackle a similar job down the line.

    Good luck,

    Sean G.
     
  24. Woz!

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    If you've already got coving in place, I'd think long and hard before removing it.
    As mentioned above, the professionals don't use glue - in fact I was advised and helped by a decorator friend of mine who's worked with professional covers and they use artex. So did I.
    I can't think that I'd be able to remove my coving without taking a chunk of the ceiling with it, because the artex it's stuck up with is harder than the plasterboard that the ceiling's made of.

    Looks like you might be out of luck on the coving front, but if you have screwed down chipboard flooring you may well be able to do all of the work from above anyway (including the downlighter wiring).
     
  25. theritz

    theritz
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    One additional word of warning about chipboard floors............ if the panels of chipboard that make up the floor are ones which have tongue and groove (T&G) edges, you need to be careful about taking them up so that you don't destroy the T&G part, otherwise they'll be horrid when you put them back down........ You'd really need to take them up from the edge of the room working outwards - provided that the guys who putthem down (and put on the skirting) did the job in such a way as to allow them to be removed reasonably easily, without having to pull the skirtings first.................

    Sorry - would love to say "It's dead easy, do X, Y and Z" :D


    Sean G.
     
  26. WeirdFish

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    Just to add my 2p's worth regarding coving....

    It wont come down in any condition to be re-used. In fact I recently changed the coving in one of my rooms, when i pulled the old stuff off it not only broke up it pulled half the cieling down with it:eek:

    Still, that'd allow you to run the cables above the ceiling :p
     
  27. MAD ANDY

    MAD ANDY
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    theritz, nothing taken the wrong way :) advice is advice whether good or bad but still constructive :)

    just got to work out how I would do it above though as by the sounds of it most of the bedroom floor would have to come up to get access to certain areas :( unless I can replace all the coving as it dont sound that expensive from B&Q ie £4 for 2m's hmmm
     
  28. MAD ANDY

    MAD ANDY
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    right, spoke to the site foreman who also confirmed that to put downlighters and run wiring etc it would be much easier to take the chipboard up in sections than remove the coving. He told me the chipboard is 18mm deep and that any pipe runs etc should be lower than the chipboard and that the joiner who put them down should have marked with a pencil where any pipe runs are in order not to nail them when putting them down.

    He said they use screwnails or summat, a nail with a thread half way?

    He also mentioned that the chipboards would be put down before the plasterboard walls so wont be able to remove any as they are tongue and groove and so the only way would be to cut a section out. He mentioned ideally trying to cut where nail runs are so that you are in the middle of a joist to nail them back down but ideally it would be good to put a nogging across between the joists when remove for extra support.

    This way i can install the downlighters like WOZ! has (almost in the same way, 3 above the screen, and 3 to the right of the room) and it should be easier to run the cable feed from the light in the centre of the room over/through the joists and also securely place the transformer somewhere with plenty of air due to heat build up etc...

    ...just got to get a circular saw and the balls to do it lol
     
  29. Woz!

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    Rent a circular saw (shame you can't rent the balls as well :laugh: )

    The first cut is the scary one, then you realise that it's actually a bit of a doddle...
     
  30. rob virgo

    rob virgo
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    good tips
     

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