My New DIY Home Sub Build

M87NER

Active Member
Hi, After looking around this site for a bit and noticed alot of people building their own enclosure, so i thought id give it a try.... so here's my first attempt... ive done mdf building before in my car but this is me first time for a home build.

few bits of mdf ive just cut.






it begins to fit together.. all cut with a jigsaw..even the subwoofer cutout






Slot port fitted






What it will look like but it will be standing up so port will be at the bottom





Started painting inside of port and filling






The driver im using











this is as far as im at so far as im waiting for my plate amp and acoustic wadding to be delivered..
 
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scoobysmiff

Active Member
Hi, After looking around this site for a bit and noticed alot of people building their own enclosure, so i thought id give it a try.... so here's my first attempt... ive done mdf building before in my car but this is me first time for a home build.

few bits of mdf ive just cut.








it begins to fit together.. all cut with a jigsaw..even the subwoofer cutout








Slot port fitted








What it will look like but it will be standing up so port will be at the bottom







Started painting inside of port and filling








The driver im using















this is as far as im at so far as im waiting for my plate amp and acoustic wadding to be delivered..

Looking good so far, What Model sub is it and what amp are you getting?
 

Member 639844

Former Advertiser
Looks an interesting build, and by all accounts you cant go wrong with the JL audio drivers :smashin:. Looking forward to keeping up with this one.
 

M87NER

Active Member
Looking good so far, What Model sub is it and what amp are you getting?
Cheers, its the JL W0v2, and the amp is the the O Audio Bash 500watt plate amp,

As i got home early today i fitted the bottom panel so now the port is complete





might yet fix another panel to the bottom (port end) so its double thick.. will it make a difference? just wanted a bigger gap between the bottom and the port but if it wont make any difference there's no point.
 
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AngelEyes

Distinguished Member
It is great to see so many new builds underway and every one a different design.

I am very interested to see how you get on with this particular port design.

Well done :smashin:

Adam
 

M87NER

Active Member
It is great to see so many new builds underway and every one a different design.

I am very interested to see how you get on with this particular port design.

Well done :smashin:

Adam
Thanks,

Im Also interested in what sound this port design will give as ive never heard one before.
 

micb3rd

Novice Member
What have you tuned the port to?

Slot ports are good as you can get a good amount of area thus reducing the chance of vent noise at higher levels.
 

Nimby

Distinguished Member
What have you tuned the port to?

Slot ports are good as you can get a good amount of area thus reducing the chance of vent noise at higher levels.
Having said that: Why aren't slot ports flared at the entrance and exit? :)
 

scoobysmiff

Active Member
Having said that: Why aren't slot ports flared at the entrance and exit? :)
I think, it's because of the area that they cover, from my enclosure designing days when I worked in the ICE industry, port noise comes from a port that is too small for the amount of air it is being expected to flow.

I used to use big flared ports for big boxes with multiple enclosures, those bigger ports usually tended to be shorter as well,

Slot ports were not used as much due to the complexity in the manufacturing process, it cost more the have them made.

As a point to note though, most if not all JL Audio enclosures have slot ports so they clearly think they are worth using, and having heard several JL enclosures with slot ports, including the High Output ones, I must say that I would have to agree, they work well, very well!!!
 

M87NER

Active Member
I think, it's because of the area that they cover, from my enclosure designing days when I worked in the ICE industry, port noise comes from a port that is too small for the amount of air it is being expected to flow.

I used to use big flared ports for big boxes with multiple enclosures, those bigger ports usually tended to be shorter as well,

Slot ports were not used as much due to the complexity in the manufacturing process, it cost more the have them made.

As a point to note though, most if not all JL Audio enclosures have slot ports so they clearly think they are worth using, and having heard several JL enclosures with slot ports, including the High Output ones, I must say that I would have to agree, they work well, very well!!!
Thats what i like to hear..

well im hoping to get it all set up for the weekend as im expecting the amp to be delivered this week.

probably not painted though.
 

Member 639844

Former Advertiser
Some slotted ports do get flared a little though, the ones on my Bose speakers are, and I have to say they work well too.
 

Nimby

Distinguished Member
It would be very easy to run a round-over bit in a router along the lip of the port. It wouldn't do any harm and would look a lot smarter. IMO. Where rapidly reciprocating airflow is concerned anything which smooths its flow is useful. I can't imagine slotted ports are so large that they are completely immune to unwanted noise from turbulence.
 

M87NER

Active Member
It would be very easy to run a round-over bit in a router along the lip of the port. It wouldn't do any harm and would look a lot smarter. IMO. Where rapidly reciprocating airflow is concerned anything which smooths its flow is useful. I can't imagine slotted ports are so large that they are completely immune to unwanted noise from turbulence.
already done, i've rounded all the edges and corners off so they are nice and smooth now....makes a big difference in looks,

I fitted the sub in the box today and tested it with a 250watt plate amp from another active sub i have to see if i had any air leaks.... none! :D bonus. even with that 250watt amp i couldnt believe how loud it was! beats all my other subs i have. And the port impressed me... no air noise, well chuffed of what ive made :)

(Pic taken before i rounded edges off)

 

scoobysmiff

Active Member
It would be very easy to run a round-over bit in a router along the lip of the port. It wouldn't do any harm and would look a lot smarter. IMO. Where rapidly reciprocating airflow is concerned anything which smooths its flow is useful. I can't imagine slotted ports are so large that they are completely immune to unwanted noise from turbulence.
I agree, it wouldn't hurt a little and would look much nicer imo but they genuinely are quiet unless they are too small and you are trying to flow more air than it can cope with, same as any port really, one of the benefits of slot ports is that you can get quite a long port in the enclosure even if the enclosure is quite small, just wrap/build the port around the internal space, port space is not included in any equasions iirc.
You can also have the slot port outside the enclosure as well, thats if you want it to look a bit weird mind you :D
 

scoobysmiff

Active Member
already done, i've rounded all the edges and corners off so they are nice and smooth now....makes a big difference in looks,

I fitted the sub in the box today and tested it with a 250watt plate amp from another active sub i have to see if i had any air leaks.... none! :D bonus. even with that 250watt amp i couldnt believe how loud it was! beats all my other subs i have. And the port impressed me... no air noise, well chuffed of what ive made :)

(Pic taken before i rounded edges off)



Looks good, what finish are you going to go for? glad you like the sound of it, JL subs really are very good you know :hiya:
 

micb3rd

Novice Member
30hz tuning will work but you will have to be careful with loud bass below 25hz as you risk having no box or port support to your driver.

25hz-16hz tuning is deffo safer!

Slot ports like any port benifit from a flare at each end, idealy a long 3 inches worth of flare is perfect.
 
B

basshead

Guest
Looking good so far....

To improve things a little further you can add a cross-brace inside it and some 1 inch thick polyester wadding glued to all sides except the back and front panels.

Polyester wadding can be got out of any cheap pillows as long as it's fire rated.
 

M87NER

Active Member
Looking good so far....

To improve things a little further you can add a cross-brace inside it and some 1 inch thick polyester wadding glued to all sides except the back and front panels.

Polyester wadding can be got out of any cheap pillows as long as it's fire rated.
Thanks,

i was going to add a brace in but didnt want to take away any more internal volume as its just on its limits, to be fair its fairly soild with the slot ports adding strength.

Ive got wadding waiting to go in...just waitind for my plate amp to arrive so i can cut out the hole for it (didnt want to put wadding in then to cut a hole and get it covererd in dust).

Why shall i not add it to the back?
 

M87NER

Active Member
Gutted!

got the letter from Parcel Force today saying they have my amp..... i got out of bed at 12:30... they closed at 12:30..... could of got it all finished this weekend, going have to wait till monday after work now to pick it up. 'sigh'
 

M87NER

Active Member
I assume it's because the amp panel may need breathing space, but I'm not 100% sure...
Hmm... ive decided to put the plate amp on the side....

im going to leave a good 2" gap between amp and wadding to be sure.... even though its fire rated...

Roll on tomorrow so i can pick up me amp and get it all sorted... 1st coat off paint should be done tomorrow then :)
 

M87NER

Active Member
Well picked up me Amp from parcel force today..


As you can see they've supplied me with a Hospital grade 125v kettle lead...Hmmm, can i just use any kettle lead and fit it with a 3 amp fuse or what ever it needs ?

Cut the hole out for the amp and fitted all the wadding ect...





Now the fun begins and final steps.. 1st coat of paint.




Have to wait 16 hours between coats.....
 

IronGiant

Moderator
Paint looks nice :thumbsup: You can use any kettle lead, or cut the US plug off that one and replace it with a UK one if you like the blue look :D

Dave
 
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