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My Garage to HC conversion 'live'

Discussion in 'Home Cinema Building DIY' started by Jamiroquai78, Nov 4, 2004.

  1. Jamiroquai78

    Jamiroquai78
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    Just to let you all know I have been chomping at the bit to start this project and have now had the go ahead from the boss (or my wife).

    We have a detached garage with power sitting off the side of the garden which for the last two years has had nothing but 'shed stuff' in it.

    My aim is to complete it before Xmas ( not long when its just me and a couple of mates doing odd weekends).

    My aim is sub £1000.00 for the build and decoration, so I will post £'s progress as we go.

    I already have the following low-medium range hardware:

    Plus Piano 3200 projector - Great value DSP unit.
    Sony DVD - Multiregion, no macro - £600 new however now 5 years old but I love it.
    X box - You have to experience Gotham 2 on an eight foot screen!!!
    Mission Speakers - Good value 5 speaker package
    M Short Sub - Lovely piece of rumbling bass
    Speaker wire - All Monster of course!

    I am having a dividing wall between the garage door and the room behind to allow me some front storage space. All the other old stuff will go in the eves once it has been boarded out.

    I would be interested on peoples lighting thoughts as I am inclined to go for 8 spots, 4 down each side on a dimmer by the door.

    Pictures to follow after this weekend!
     
  2. gaz

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    sound nice m8 how you gonna heat it if its detached mine is also in a detached garage but i didn't give heating a thought and at the moment i'm using thermostaic fan heater but its to noisey
     
  3. Jamiroquai78

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    I've been thinking about that quite a bit, it rarely gets cold (why I dont understand). I am putting up stud walls and am filling them probably with 100mm thick loft insulation to aid the soundproofing. Again this is due to cash restraints as the acoustic stuff is far more expensive. I am then double layering the plasterboard to give it that bit extra.

    I am hoping the additional benefit of all this will be heat retention, however when complete if required I will get a couple of oil filled rads that you plug in. These seem very safe are easily portable and with the addition of a timer you can get it nice and warm before you go out there.

    I think my problem will be it gets too warm throughout the Summer which I think is harder to manage as it will have no ventilation to speak of.
     
  4. gaz

    gaz
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    Mine was cold in the summer even during the day, dont forget all that insulation you put in will stop the walls absorbing the heat so although its warm in there now that insulation stop any being absorbed to the inside.
    I myself did it on a similar budget to yours and indeed a similar build to yours but instead of using double plaster-board i used 20mm chipboard being a lot denser than plaster board it should help with sound proofing as I understand it anyway, I also covered the chipboard with dark grey carpet so it would keep it warmer i left a 9" cavity between my brick and stud and had to fill it with rockwool (loft insulation) but I still find it cold, even in the summer like I said before i've got no windows in there so when you close the door you can't see your hand in front of your face its that dark but once I heat it it does hold the heat.
    Answer to your last comment if you insulate it like you say I don't think you will have a problem keeping it cool in the summer.
     
  5. hatcher

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    I'll second this - insulation works both ways. Mine was nicely cool over the summer (what we had of it) and those oil filled rads work really well too. I've got two wall mounted (thermostatically & timer controlled) versions and have no complaints. I think it'll be worth insulating the floor as well or at least getting some thick carpet/underlay.
     
  6. Jamiroquai78

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    Cheers guys really appreciate your help on this one. The underfloor isulation is an unknown for me; I have read a thread where someone used the underlay for wood flooring so am tempted maybe to try that and then go over it with carpet underlay and then carpet. Oil filled rads do look like a good option (saw one on your site Hatcher, v nice HC you must be well chuffed)

    Pictures posted Sunday hopefully!!!
     
  7. hatcher

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    Thanks Jamiroquai. Look forward to seeing your pics.
     
  8. gaz

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    with it being a garage i would asume you have a concrete floor the cheapest way to insulate it would be to:
    lay down visqueen and wrap it up the back of the stud no more than 3'6 needed and fasten it to back of the stud work b4 you plaster-board it lay down and level of 3x2 at 400mm on centres and brace it together lay in between the 3x2 poystyrene panels and cover with chipboard
    this is the cheapest and easist way to (diy) insulate the floor and also if there ever was to be a problem with damp then there wouldn't be a problem rising damp never gets higher than 3' hope this helps
     
  9. hatcher

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    Just a quick note on garage floors. They often slope downwards towards to front (in case of spillages and for drainage I suppose). When they insulated my floor (with celotex) and put down a new level concrete screed it was 40mm thicker at the front than it was at the back.
     
  10. Jamiroquai78

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    Thanks Hatcher that kinda makes sense as the stud wall seemed to get shorter when levelled and we couldnt work out why!!!

    Here are the first snaps showing the wall and start of the stud. I got a bit scared thinking the 'throw' wouldnt be long enough as I didnt account for setting the projector 18" from the back wall due to ventilation however I put the projector out there and it still is nearly full width of the back wall.
     

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  11. hatcher

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    Looking good Jamiroquai.
    Sometimes I think I should have built my front wall a bit further back from the garage doors - enough to open them at least. At the time I wanted to maximise the space but it would have provided some useful storage. Never mind - next time :rolleyes:
    Surely you don't need that fan though!?
     
  12. Jamiroquai78

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    I HAD to build it with a space as we do not have the storage elsewhere (new build 3 bedroom) If I put a shed in the garden I would have no garden!!!

    I was quite lucky that it is a large single garage and even with that storage space and a 6" stud wall I am hoping to end up with a HC room 12' x 8' so it shouldnt feel to pokey.

    I need the fan for when Im sitting down and everyone else is working of course!
     
  13. Jamiroquai78

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    Had to let you all know.... sometimes its all about being in the right place at the right time.

    I went to the local theatre last night and the whole place had been refurbed, found the lighting director and asked "Got any chairs over?"

    I have now got three/four proper theatre/cinema chairs depending on my space at home (pulled straight from the National in London no less so come with history free of charge lol) for £25.00 ea. RRP on these little beauties? £150.00 ea! Only slight thing is they are a Lilac colour but hey.

    Now thats HC on a budget!!!
     
  14. MikeRJ

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    Bargain! As you say it's all about being in the right place at the right time.
     
  15. hatcher

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  16. Jamiroquai78

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    Due to the width restraints of my HC I am probably going to have two sets of two, one set fixed and one floating. I will (again probably, you know how things change!) fix them to two raised platforms, one of which will be built against the back wall. The floating one can then be moved into place once the door is closed to give one row of four in effect.

    The platform idea is really due to a long term goal that I want a pair of bass shakers fitted (ideally buttkickers but bloody expensive)and that currently my budget wont allow them to be purchased this side of Xmas :-(
     
  17. Jamiroquai78

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    Quick update for you guys: Had a visit from Andy at http://www.lmp-pc.co.uk/ what a great guy. Thanks Hatcher I found his link on your site and yes he couldn't help enough and he has his own HC in his cellar. If any one needs a mount then drop him a line I got a universal one from him and he came round to make sure it would fit ok ( now thats customer service) :thumbsup:

    My project has slowed down which is why no more photo's. It's my first time at stud walls and to be fair i'm a bit crap :blush: It has taken me the last three weekends to get 3 walls of studding up but hopefully will get it finished this weekend :thumbsup:

    Then the fun starts and I can electrocute myself trying my hand at wiring for the first time (thats the trouble with a low budget you do it all yourself!)

    I am still confident that I will be sitting down at Xmas though....... well kinda confident.

    If I get enough done I will post some pikkies to update, I just don't want to bore you all :boring: with the same old things.
     
  18. hatcher

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    Good to hear thing are progressing J.
    Electrics are easy. Just remember red is live... or is that black?... no, it is red... oh, just get someone else to switch it on first. If there's no bang then it's okay :eek:
    Simple!
     
  19. Jamiroquai78

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    At last the studding is complete :D I cannot believe how long it took me! Here are a couple of pikkies showing my efforts.
     

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  20. Jamiroquai78

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    Next up the wonderful world of electrics and a whole new learning curve for me.

    I was clever enough to put the ceiling up before wiring so now have to run all the cabling round the sides :blush:

    To make this a bit easier I have bought 40mm waste pipes and going to use them "Blue Peter Stylie" (without the sticky back plastic) for running the wires round.

    Just don't ask about the corners I havent worked that bit out yet :suicide:

    The last picture for today shows my nomination for the most bits of wood used in one corner award.

    Next weekend electrics!!! :eek: Be afraid, be very afraid.
     

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  21. gaz

    gaz
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    keep your chin up m8 your getting there it allways takes longer than you think. All your cables in the pipes neat idea should be able to get lots of cables in there, youll be allright 20 years from now when we have 25:3 pro-logic systems lol.
    keep them picy's coming
    garry
     
  22. martian1

    martian1
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    Lovely job about to attemp stud walls myself any tips, what size timber did you use? Keep them pics coming... :smashin:
     
  23. hatcher

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    Studding looks good to me J.

    Good idea to use 40mm, the 32mm I used was a bit tight for the beefer cables like the component lead. Corners are a pain though. A tip for threading wires is to use that wire coil stuff used for net curtains as it's stiff enough to push through but flexible enough to follow the corners, if you have a round end on it - this also makes it easy to hook it out. The 'audio wire' can just be securely taped to the other end of this and pulled through after.

    Keep it going.

    - just looked closer at the pics, are the pipes split like guttering? Above technique may not be relevent.
     
  24. Jamiroquai78

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    cheers guys! :smashin:

    gaz - It actually feels like I am at last getting somewhere wiring this weekend and I have a plasterer sorted for the following weekend. It should actually resemble a room in a couple of weeks!

    martian1 - Advise yes................. dont do it!!!! Pay someone, whatever it costs! Hey I will even chip in so you do not have to go through the hours of pain I injured. However if you are still thinking of taking it on, its not that bad and quite gratifying in the end. I used planed 4 x 2 2.4 metre lengths from Jewsons £1.43 a length which seemed good to me. I used 60 lengths on a 13 x 8 room with one door and nowt else. The big thing if you havent done it already is preparation. Seriously, prep prep and more prep and watch the corners. You will learn so much as you go along like I did.

    Remember when plaster boarding round a corner one sheet will be butted onto anther therefore take that 12mm out of your sums for the verts. Oh and do it at 400mm centres not 600mm like me who had to take it down and start again! :blush:

    Hatcher - Yes it is split for the reason you mentioned about cable sizes. I figure if they have a channel to sit in they should slide around easily ( I hope) and I am putting a string line in also to make it a bit more future proof. I am also thinking of pre-wiring to 7.1 and adding anything I can think of while I have not walls up.

    More picckies net week

    Jam
     
  25. Jamiroquai78

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    :thumbsup: I'm still alive!!!

    Sunday was electrics day :eek: , not a day I was looking forward to. However it was nowehere near as bad as it seemed.

    I have moved the fuse box and laid out all the lighting and socket cables :D

    One piece of advice to all electrical newbies; Before taking anything apart draw it/photograph it so you know how it goes back together. This was a life saver when it came to moving the fuse box.

    Couple of pikkies showing my work, can anyone spot the deliberate :blush: mistake?

    I am putting the audio/video wiring in during this week.

    Plasterer is in this weekend coming and then it will look like a room at last :clap:

    Now its starting to get exciting and all the work seems worth it at last.
     

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  26. hatcher

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    looks like you held the camera upside-down in the last pic :laugh:
    Keep it up J.
     
  27. Jamiroquai78

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    And the winner is Mr H :clap: Well spotted.

    Your prize? A full house rewire free of charge by me! :eek:
     
  28. martian1

    martian1
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    looking great..getting closer :clap: I have managed to attempt stud wall :rolleyes: i wished the time went as quick at work, I think i have discovered the secret of time travel :rotfl: keep pics coming :smashin:
     
  29. dupontin

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    Hey Jam this is looking professional ! man I'm impressed, the studwork is very good, Mine was a bit different as I only had to put studs between the brick pillars, made life easier, however not when it came to glueing the plasterboard to the brick pillars !

    In an earlier photo the cables dont look secure, I guess you were putting in channelling ? or are u fixing to the walls/studs ?

    Also I found it a great idea to recess the fuse box, not to mount it on the outside of the plasterboard. I put plaster behind it and insulation all around.
    It stops it intruding and detracting from the room.

    Plasterboarding was pretty easy, I recommend two people to do it the ceiling was a bit hard but we used a piece of stud timber with a T piece screwed on top as a support.
    If someone else's doing it then no prob, but it was a breeze.

    keep the photo's coming and dont forget the noggins for mounting the rear speakers
     
  30. Jamiroquai78

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    Aw gee thanks Dupontin :blush: I was probably over careful with my stud work as I had no idea what I was doing ;)

    The cabling for the lights and the sockets have been secured to the studwork and that was how I was going to leave it not sure if thats good or bad thing as I havent done it before.

    The audio/video leads are being laid in 40mm piping cut in half so they can slide easier in case I need to thread any others around after the plasterboard is up.

    I actually moved the fusebox out of the room and its now on the storeroom side of the garage which is why its on bare brick and upside down :blush:

    I am fitting all the audio leads tonight and plastering is being done by my father in law( qualified plasterer :smashin: ) and me as his tea boy :rolleyes: over the weekend.

    Really appreciate the tip on the noggins, I would have kicked myself afterwards :mad:

    Martian - well done on the stud work if your a novice like me it takes a loooong time :boring: but I promise its worth it afterwards even though at the moment it probably seems like an uphill climb.

    more pikkies this week

    Jam
     

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