Mounting options for DIY-MDF screen

pompeysteve

Active Member
Hi,

I've just got my Panny AE100 and at the moment it's projecting onto some god awful textured GREEN wallpaper! - Not the best way of viewing I know.

Anyways, I've read a few posts about using some MDF and Ice Storm 5 / 6 paint with good results. I've got the paint and I can
get some 8x5 or 8x6 MDF from B&Q.

Next thing is how to best mount it. Ideally I'd like it removable,
and maybe even more ideally is to have it "hinged" to the ceiling so that it can just fold up when not in use.

Anyone have some reasonable, and not too pricey,
suggestions as to the best approach?

Thanks in advance

Steve
 

richard plumb

Distinguished Member
not a practical suggestion, but don't stand by the wall when the screen's hung up - if that thing lets go you'll end up as Flat Stanley!
 

RichardH

Standard Member
I had ideas about hinging to the ceiling, but gave up and did a fixed screen intead, and used a wall hanging to drop down when not in use to cover.
I also went for a frame with blackout fabric stretched instead of MDF - a bit more work, though.

I can get some 8x5 or 8x6 MDF from B&Q
Are you sure? I thought the largest they do is 8x4, which would go down to 7'1" x 4 for a 16:9 screen. Another reason I went for frame/fabric.

I'd go for at least the 12mm MDF - they don't seem to do 9mm, and 6mm is too flexible - you'll end up adding battens behind to stiffen it up - I guess if your wall's dead flat and you're not going to hinge it, it'll be OK. Be warned - it's heavy stuff, MDF.

Have a look at the link in my sig for what I did for our screen - it may help!?
 

pompeysteve

Active Member
Hey that looks very cool.. Maybe that would be a better
bet than trying to fix a heavy load of MDF to the wall...

I'm pretty usre the MDF I saw at my local B&Q Warehouse
was 8x5, but I could be (and probably am) wrong

Oh God, there's just so many decisions to make! I've
not even decided where to put the darn thing yet.
 
A

Amelia

Guest
I used a slim-line sliding Door rail. Basically an aluminum rail is mounted on the wall (into wall studs (the wood not plaster)). Then I screwed the nylon runners into the Screens Wooden Frame. The screen is then lifted into place and slides across.

Not sure how much sense this makes, but if your interested in more details, I can provide them.

Best Regards
Amelia
 

pompeysteve

Active Member
Originally posted by RichardH
I also went for a frame with blackout fabric stretched instead of MDF - a bit more work, though.

Have a look at the link in my sig for what I did for our screen - it may help!?

Thanks, can you tell me where you got the screen fabric
from?

I'm leaning towards this solution rather than the MDF.
 

Bert Coules

Well-known Member
It's possible to buy roller-blinds in a light grey blackout material which is very similar in shade to Icestorm 5 ("Masquerade Grey" is the fabric, if I recall correctly.)

I'm currently making a screen using a roller-blind; it comes down behind a cut-out 16:9 frame. The frame stays up permanently - around a window in my case - and though the immediate 4" edge around the picture is black, the rest is painted to match the wall; it's not particularly intrusive.

Bert
www.bertcoules.co.uk
 

Walter mitty

Standard Member
Richard,
I like your home made ceiling mount however I`m not sure how it moves up and down can you enlighten me please thanx
 

RichardH

Standard Member
Colours in brackets refer to the diagram - click on it for a larger version.
The 32mm pipe (black) runs inside 40mm pipe (blue), which is glued using solvent weld to the the threaded flange (red). It is an interference fit - before bonding the 40mm to the flange, they slid easily, but the solvent weld must have made the 40mm pipe contract a bit, because it was very tight, and I had to ream the 40mm out a bit with a file and sandpaper. Even now, it's a bit stiff to slide. On the plus side, it does mean that I don't need to hold it in place when it's pushed up out of the way.

The cables run through the ceiling, and down through the 32mm pipe - this means that they rise with the pipe when the PJ is pushed up, and so they don't get pulled at all - just lifted and raised. I've just created a lovely animation of it - see below - click for large version.

I cut a v notch in opposing sides of the top of the 40mm pipe, and put a bolt through the 32mm pipe, so that it sits in to the notch when the projector/bottom plate (and therefore 32mm pipe) is pulled down. This stops it at the right height and sets the direction for the pj. Is usually needs a little tweak, though (who doesn't!!). Obviously the bolt also prevetns me from pulling the whole length of the pipe through and having the PJ land on my head.

The bottom bit (pink and yukky greeny yellow) is all glued and bolted together, and then screwed to the bottom plate.



 

Walter mitty

Standard Member
Thanks for that richard,

I think it looks great.

I understand now thanks to your clever little animation.

When you slide it up do you have to put a pin through it to stop it slideing back down....... or is it so stiff it satys up on it`s own? If it is stiff I expect it will become free er with use and then you may need to insert a pin.

Many thanks I like it and reckon it`s just about in my region of DIY
 

RichardH

Standard Member
No, it's stiff enough without a pin to keep it up. Too stiff, in some ways - not super easy to bring down. As you say, it may well ease with use. PM me if you need any further help or hints. One thing I will say, though, is that it does wobble a bit when (say) you're adjusting focus or zoom - fine when left alone, though.
 

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