More pictures of the Cinema Room...getting to the good bits now!!

keithc33

Standard Member
It's taken 6 months to get planning permission passed for my new Cinema Room but finally we are underway. Hopefully you guys can offer me lots of great advice and guidance over the next 6 months, looking forward to the build process and even more I am looking forward to watching a film without the background noise of the kettle and my Mrs wittering on the phone :(

Happy to share images and details if anyone is interested along the way and equally keen to get feedback from everyone...hoping to complete the build in October...let the fun commence :)
 

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keithc33

Standard Member
Subbed :)
Do you have kit list started?

Hi, yes this is the wish list as and when funds will allow...
  • Seymour 150" 2.35 Acoustic electric screen (or I may try and build my own using a motorized roller blind)
  • Marantz SR7012 Receiver (already purchased)
  • LG OLED 65" C8 TV
  • Artcoustic Front and Centre speakers - not 100% decided yet, all depends on cost and if I can find a cheap 2nd hand set
  • Side and Rear surround speakers - KEF Reference Ci2000
  • 2 x SVS PB1000 Subs (already purchased)
  • Epson TW9300 Projector
  • Control 4 Automation
  • Nvidia Shield Media player (already got)
  • Sky Q Box
  • PS4 (got)
  • Pioneer UDP LX500 4K Player
If the wife asks it is definately not a Cinema Room, it is a family living room ;)
 

Munzz

Active Member
Looks good, why did it take 6 months to get planning permission though? Is that the standard timescale?

Looking at doing a similar project myself so just getting my head around planning.
 

keithc33

Standard Member
Looks good, why did it take 6 months to get planning permission though? Is that the standard timescale?

Looking at doing a similar project myself so just getting my head around planning.

Normally planning takes 8 weeks but we had a few complications with the design and had to make a few changes.

In most cases though extensions are pretty straight forward and sometimes don't require planning...

If your property is over 10 years old then you will more than likely have something called 'Permitted Development' rights which means that you can build outbuildings, extensions etc without planning providing you stick to some basic rules.

If you do have PD then you can build an extension at the rear of your property without planning as long as it is no longer than the original house and it is not more than 4m deep.

If it is more than 4m deep then you will need to do a 'Neighbour Consultation' agreement which basically means that a letter is sent to your neighbours detailing the extension, providing there are no objections it will be passed. This normally takes 30-40 days to get a decision.

If you live in a listed building or a conservation area then you may need to obtain Planning, probably best to speak with your local Planning department for clarification.

Hope the above helps, Keith
 

mbmapit

Well-known Member
Is that design finalised? The only reasons I ask is because:

1. I would move the front left and right channels further apart for a better soundstage
2. Those (glass I presume) doors are going to cause unwanted reflections so start considering options now
3. Don't cheap out on the screen, get a good acoustically transparent material (not a roller blind)
4. Try to match your speakers all around to avoid tonal mismatch
5. Consider Atmos now because it's far easier adding in the building stages.

Just my thoughts.

Good luck on what will be a great project.
 

keithc33

Standard Member
Is that design finalised? The only reasons I ask is because:

1. I would move the front left and right channels further apart for a better soundstage
2. Those (glass I presume) doors are going to cause unwanted reflections so start considering options now
3. Don't cheap out on the screen, get a good acoustically transparent material (not a roller blind)
4. Try to match your speakers all around to avoid tonal mismatch
5. Consider Atmos now because it's far easier adding in the building stages.

Just my thoughts.

Good luck on what will be a great project.

Thanks for the input, unfortunately there has had to be some compromising with the Mrs...

1. I would move the front left and right channels further apart for a better soundstage

Ok, noted, I plan on doing a more detailed 3D plan once I have the exact screen size that I will be putting in, there should be plenty of room to move them wider so that will be one of the changes. A row of recliners will also be going in behind the couch so this will be the main viewing position for movies. When the screen is raised we will be watching the TV from the front couch.

2. Those (glass I presume) doors are going to cause unwanted reflections so start considering options now

Yes, this was the compromise...We are having blinds fitted and was planning on acoustic curtains also. Any other recommendations would be appreciated.

3. Don't cheap out on the screen, get a good acoustically transparent material (not a roller blind)

I was planning on building my own using a 4k perforated screen material...that was until I came across Seymour Screens last week and realised that they would make one for me, planning on a maximum 150" (recliners will be approx 4.5m away from the screen)

4. Try to match your speakers all around to avoid tonal mismatch

That's definitely something I will take on board as I wa planning on mixing them up, back to the drawing board I guess

5. Consider Atmos now because it's far easier adding in the building stages.

Already planned, it will be 7.4.2

Thanks again for the info,

Keith
 

Cherrywood

Active Member
Is your space going to be dedicated for films and dark colour scheme etc? If so, maybe worth ditching the TV and going fix screen with speakers placed behind - potentially fully baffle wall. Will defo add to the overall experience
 

keithc33

Standard Member
Is your space going to be dedicated for films and dark colour scheme etc? If so, maybe worth ditching the TV and going fix screen with speakers placed behind - potentially fully baffle wall. Will defo add to the overall experience


I really wish it was but unfortunately it has to double up as a living room, it is having sealed black out blinds which I am having specially made so it will be very dark when it needs to be. The screen will also drop down in front of the TV when we are in movie mode, my thinking behind this is that I don't want the projector bulb being wasted on my wifes choice of viewing...Love Island etc :(

In the day it will act like a Living room but on film night it will hopefully have the effect of a dedicated theater room, that's the plan anyway :)
 

bardel

Well-known Member
Love a design that starts with Sketchup Keith. :)

I would echo some of the others comments with a couple of further tweaks / tips.

So for sure, widen the soundstage of those front speakers. You say you are aiming for 150" screen, I have exactly this size, with Artcoustic speakers behind, the LR channels are fitted almost to the outside edge and give great staging, the way you have indicated them in the drawing with stifle this a fair bit. If your worried about the cosmetics of it, I have an idea for you to consider....

So, I think trying to use an electric screen at 150" in acoustic transparent material is going to be tricky. You may have seen others on here making DIY screens, using spandex based materials. In any case, you will find nearly all acoustic transparent materials are stretchy... Stretchy materials need a frame to be stretched and tensioned over. Roller screens cannot do this with anywhere near the tension they need in my opinion, possibly at smaller sizes, but at 150" I think not. Now I know you seem set on the roller screen with the TV behind (which unless your Mrs is going to spend time out there with her girly friends during the day, I'd wager you will never use), might I suggest the following....

Put a fixed 150" screen on the wall (or maybe a tad smaller if you need the height for...), locating the speakers to a better position, which will be of no consequence to your Mrs coz you won't be able to see them. Build a cabinet (of your width choosing) at the base of the screen and mount the TV within it on an electronic lift (as per end of bed type models), then you will have the best of both worlds. If you don't like the thought of having the screen visible at all times, then take that electronic roller blind idea, and make a blind that drops over the fixed screen to hide it from the room. Tada... Only reservation I have with this idea is that you may be restricted on height to allow room for the TV box below the screen, so time to get your tape measure out. :). You will find a design similar to this on here, I think it's @KelvinS1965 room... Yep, it's this one... When Worlds collide: The dedicated living room cinema (Updated Dec 2018)

For the glass doors, Z wave track heavy curtains would be ideal to kill off the reflections you could have these with black out material to help with the light control. Then if you really want to you can go with the roller blind set inside channels to completely block the light, but you might still want the curtains to cover the flat blind surface. I think having two large sections of curtains on opposite sides will actually look quite nice, I have a picture of something similar when I was looking for my room, I'll try to find it for you...

You haven't indicated in the 3d the positioning of the surrounds, and it's difficult to determine the size of the room. My room is approx 6m wide by 8m long with a 150" screen, I suspect yours maybe slightly longer looking at the building photos. There are some good guides on the Dolby site for speaker positioning which you should take a look at if you haven't already. Looking at your rear wall design you haven't yet indicated where the rear surrounds are, but I think you said you are going 7.2.4. I think it would be good to factor this into the design of the cabinets at the rear of the room and plan to ensure the surround speakers are central to the room layout, ideally with the rears located in line with the front L&R. I realise that this might sound like a pain in the butt right now, but with some careful planning you could make this work as the surround speakers are not particularly big. Also, what are your thoughts with regards to the side surrounds, as depending on the length of the room and your seating position, they could be right in the middle of the windows?

Also, for Artcoustic, these may be hard to come across second hand, but... I know my installer had some available second hand at some point, so probably worth contacting the dealers as well as looking in classifieds.

And lastly... Lighting, I don't think you mentioned it yet, but I'm sure you've thought of it. Quite a hard one to get right (for me at least), I spent ages planning mine, but I'm still not sure it's perfect, so make sure you put some time to this as changing it afterwards could be troublesome!

Sorry for waffling so much, I love the home cinema building DIY threads, so just trying to help with ideas. If you want to see how mine came out, the links in my footer.

Look forward to seeing the progress pics.
 

keithc33

Standard Member
Love a design that starts with Sketchup Keith. :)

I would echo some of the others comments with a couple of further tweaks / tips.

So for sure, widen the soundstage of those front speakers. You say you are aiming for 150" screen, I have exactly this size, with Artcoustic speakers behind, the LR channels are fitted almost to the outside edge and give great staging, the way you have indicated them in the drawing with stifle this a fair bit. If your worried about the cosmetics of it, I have an idea for you to consider....

So, I think trying to use an electric screen at 150" in acoustic transparent material is going to be tricky. You may have seen others on here making DIY screens, using spandex based materials. In any case, you will find nearly all acoustic transparent materials are stretchy... Stretchy materials need a frame to be stretched and tensioned over. Roller screens cannot do this with anywhere near the tension they need in my opinion, possibly at smaller sizes, but at 150" I think not. Now I know you seem set on the roller screen with the TV behind (which unless your Mrs is going to spend time out there with her girly friends during the day, I'd wager you will never use), might I suggest the following....

Put a fixed 150" screen on the wall (or maybe a tad smaller if you need the height for...), locating the speakers to a better position, which will be of no consequence to your Mrs coz you won't be able to see them. Build a cabinet (of your width choosing) at the base of the screen and mount the TV within it on an electronic lift (as per end of bed type models), then you will have the best of both worlds. If you don't like the thought of having the screen visible at all times, then take that electronic roller blind idea, and make a blind that drops over the fixed screen to hide it from the room. Tada... Only reservation I have with this idea is that you may be restricted on height to allow room for the TV box below the screen, so time to get your tape measure out. :). You will find a design similar to this on here, I think it's @KelvinS1965 room... Yep, it's this one... When Worlds collide: The dedicated living room cinema (Updated Dec 2018)

For the glass doors, Z wave track heavy curtains would be ideal to kill off the reflections you could have these with black out material to help with the light control. Then if you really want to you can go with the roller blind set inside channels to completely block the light, but you might still want the curtains to cover the flat blind surface. I think having two large sections of curtains on opposite sides will actually look quite nice, I have a picture of something similar when I was looking for my room, I'll try to find it for you...

You haven't indicated in the 3d the positioning of the surrounds, and it's difficult to determine the size of the room. My room is approx 6m wide by 8m long with a 150" screen, I suspect yours maybe slightly longer looking at the building photos. There are some good guides on the Dolby site for speaker positioning which you should take a look at if you haven't already. Looking at your rear wall design you haven't yet indicated where the rear surrounds are, but I think you said you are going 7.2.4. I think it would be good to factor this into the design of the cabinets at the rear of the room and plan to ensure the surround speakers are central to the room layout, ideally with the rears located in line with the front L&R. I realise that this might sound like a pain in the butt right now, but with some careful planning you could make this work as the surround speakers are not particularly big. Also, what are your thoughts with regards to the side surrounds, as depending on the length of the room and your seating position, they could be right in the middle of the windows?

Also, for Artcoustic, these may be hard to come across second hand, but... I know my installer had some available second hand at some point, so probably worth contacting the dealers as well as looking in classifieds.

And lastly... Lighting, I don't think you mentioned it yet, but I'm sure you've thought of it. Quite a hard one to get right (for me at least), I spent ages planning mine, but I'm still not sure it's perfect, so make sure you put some time to this as changing it afterwards could be troublesome!

Sorry for waffling so much, I love the home cinema building DIY threads, so just trying to help with ideas. If you want to see how mine came out, the links in my footer.

Look forward to seeing the progress pics.

Wow, love your Cinema Room pal, we are having the star ceiling too so will have to pick your brains on that further down the line. Some good points mentioned in your post, hopefully try and answer all of them below...

Screen - In all honesty I would much prefer a fixed screen but I lost that battle some time ago so need a solution. I like the idea of the lift up TV but then I wouldn't be keen on such a large gap between the bottom of the screen and the floor. The internal roof height will be approx 2.7m so might not have enough room anyway, will need to draw it out to scale in SketchUp this week me thinks.
Another option would be to go with a smaller screen, maybe 120" as I am sure this will still be plenty big enough from 4.5m. In your opinion do you think the 120" screen would still have tension issues on a drop down roller?
This is where I was intending to buy from....Seymour AV | Store (F150)

Curtains - That Z Wave Track is just the ticket, will be able to get integrated into the automation which will be a nice touch.

Speaker positions - The interior room size will be approx 5.7m wide x 8.5m long, will know better once I do the detailed drawings later this week.
The side surrounds should just sit to the back side of the doors as this will be in line with the recliners, If they do end up falling on the glass door then the other option (not ideal) would be to fit above the door and face them down, the doors are not overly tall and the seats will be on a riser so they will not be massively above head height, could also get some directional ones if we did have to do this.
The rear wall is a work in progress, you will see that it has a bar in there (for my Mrs) but the rest has not been designed yet. The rear surrounds will be hidden in this unit and covered in speaker cloth or something similar.

Lighting is a headache but something I am doing my homework on, good lighting can make an average room look great and poor lighting can make a great room look poor so it's very important that I get that side of things right. Here are some of the things that we have though about so far...

- Star Ceiling with LED up stand
- ONXY Yellow panels in the bar area with backlighting

The rest is still up in the air at the moment.

It's great to be finally planning this, I have been wanting a movie room for 7 years since I moved here, appreciate the feedback,

Keith
 

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bardel

Well-known Member
Hi Keith, thanks!

So if loosing space at the bottom of the screen is a problem for the Tv, you can go with a hidden ceiling mount such as this.

CHRT - TV Ceiling Hinge & Telescope - Future Automation

I have a z wave track in the cinema and also in the lounge. We have done all the blinds in our house and went for Lutron because the blinds are so quite and also do hem alignment. However, be warned, Lutron is not cheap!

We used Starscape panels, we had a couple of issues with them, mainly to do with inconsistencies in the pre made panels. If I had the time I would be inclined to use their DIY kits so that you can can be sure of the effects you want in the areas you want. Don’t get me wrong, it is really cool, but there are things I notice that visitors don’t which bug me occasionally, but I think you get that with all projects when you’ve been so heavily involved.

I’m going to redo my led up lighting in the ceiling. I originally thought I could use velcro’d on upstand, which actually work very well as I wanted to ensure access to the starscape panels, however as they are fabric trimmed there is some un-evenness that I can’t tolerate!

I think the bar is a good idea to be honest, especially if it’s a social area too. I have my beer and chocolates fridge just outside in the “foyer”

It’s great to try and get everything perfect, but there will always be some compromises, it’s a home not a commercial cinema, so you should be prepared for some flexibility. Just work out what’s most important to you and go with that.

I can’t say for sure about the Seymour screens. I’ve had a Da-Lite tab tensioned 110” electric screen (£3k + from memory about 10 years ago) and whilst it was significantly better than my 85” non-tab tensioned screen prior to that it was always obvious to me that there were imperfections in the screen which got worse over time. Personally I would say this has to be one of your key decisions, fixed frame is so much better in my opinion, but your requirements for hiding with an electric screen may outweigh this. I did see a fantastic screen blind with printed images on it that looked fantastic somewhere that may appeal to you and your Mrs as an idea. I’ll see if I can find it.

Cheers
Barry
 

chazman88

Active Member
Be a little carful putting an Acoustically transparrent screen infront of a TV. AT screens tend to be micro-perforated or a woven material which is necesscary to let the audio through, but this also means it lets light through.

You can very very easily get a reflection from the projection lens off the TV screen back through the acoustic material. Once you notice this it is impossible to "un-see" it.

I dont know if seymour have a solution for this but I know some other manufactures (screen research) have a secondary "black" screen that rolls down behind at the same time as the projection surface to stop the reflections.

Micro-perforation screens tend to be the "rubbery stretchy" material, therefore i would suggest making sure you get a woven screen as these are much much less likely to stretch.
 

keithc33

Standard Member
Hi Keith, thanks!

So if loosing space at the bottom of the screen is a problem for the Tv, you can go with a hidden ceiling mount such as this.

CHRT - TV Ceiling Hinge & Telescope - Future Automation

I have a z wave track in the cinema and also in the lounge. We have done all the blinds in our house and went for Lutron because the blinds are so quite and also do hem alignment. However, be warned, Lutron is not cheap!

We used Starscape panels, we had a couple of issues with them, mainly to do with inconsistencies in the pre made panels. If I had the time I would be inclined to use their DIY kits so that you can can be sure of the effects you want in the areas you want. Don’t get me wrong, it is really cool, but there are things I notice that visitors don’t which bug me occasionally, but I think you get that with all projects when you’ve been so heavily involved.

I’m going to redo my led up lighting in the ceiling. I originally thought I could use velcro’d on upstand, which actually work very well as I wanted to ensure access to the starscape panels, however as they are fabric trimmed there is some un-evenness that I can’t tolerate!

I think the bar is a good idea to be honest, especially if it’s a social area too. I have my beer and chocolates fridge just outside in the “foyer”

It’s great to try and get everything perfect, but there will always be some compromises, it’s a home not a commercial cinema, so you should be prepared for some flexibility. Just work out what’s most important to you and go with that.

I can’t say for sure about the Seymour screens. I’ve had a Da-Lite tab tensioned 110” electric screen (£3k + from memory about 10 years ago) and whilst it was significantly better than my 85” non-tab tensioned screen prior to that it was always obvious to me that there were imperfections in the screen which got worse over time. Personally I would say this has to be one of your key decisions, fixed frame is so much better in my opinion, but your requirements for hiding with an electric screen may outweigh this. I did see a fantastic screen blind with printed images on it that looked fantastic somewhere that may appeal to you and your Mrs as an idea. I’ll see if I can find it.

Cheers
Barry


Thanks Barry, the drop down TV Bracket is a tasty bit of kit, I have just emailed them but something tells me I may need to remortgage in order to buy one, will wait and see!!

I was also looking at the panels from Starscape but it is going to be a large feature at maybe 4m x 5m so decided to go at it myself with the DIY kit, might try to add in one of the shooting stars for the kids, they will love that :)

I emailed Seymour yesterday asking for a quote and some advice on a 130" screen but not had a response yet, would be interested to know if there is anyone in the UK that could make me one. I am pretty sure with some research and guidance I could do this myself but I know that this project can't drag on forever so may need to bring in others to take on certain elements of the project.

The concrete slab goes in next week followed by the walls the week after that, all being well everything will be watertight and ready for action at the end of April :D
 

bardel

Well-known Member
Thanks Barry, the drop down TV Bracket is a tasty bit of kit, I have just emailed them but something tells me I may need to remortgage in order to buy one, will wait and see!!

I was also looking at the panels from Starscape but it is going to be a large feature at maybe 4m x 5m so decided to go at it myself with the DIY kit, might try to add in one of the shooting stars for the kids, they will love that :)

I emailed Seymour yesterday asking for a quote and some advice on a 130" screen but not had a response yet, would be interested to know if there is anyone in the UK that could make me one. I am pretty sure with some research and guidance I could do this myself but I know that this project can't drag on forever so may need to bring in others to take on certain elements of the project.

The concrete slab goes in next week followed by the walls the week after that, all being well everything will be watertight and ready for action at the end of April :D

Im pretty sure Future Automation is dealer only. I have had 2 units from them in the past, 1 a projector drop down mount, the other an end of bed TV lift, both units were north of £1k.

Starscape (before getting a bespoke quote) is £300 per square meter from memory for their infinity panels, standard panel size is (2m x 1m) but they do supply as 1m x 1m also + light boxes and tails, so you're looking at 10 panels (20 sq m) at £6k and probably 4 MiniLED light boxes (approx £700 each again from memory). I only needed 3 light boxes in theory, but I had to get StarScape out to look at my install as we had problems with uneven brightness. They fitted an additional light box so we now have 4 and changed some of the Hydra fibre tail splitters to rectify. So you're looking at about £9k odd I would say unless the pricing has changed from when I brought mine a year ago. DIY route will be much cheaper!

Very busy and exciting times for you ahead! :)
 

keithc33

Standard Member
Very rough 2D floor plan...to be confirmed. Obvious issue is the side surround speakers, they may have to be directional and go above the doors?
 

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bardel

Well-known Member
I think given you are planning on using the rear row (not the bar stools) as your main listening position, your surrounds location is not that bad really.

Any reason why the window on the right is 4m and the left 3.6m? The Symmetry OCD monkey would be hitting me over the head with that one?! :)

Not 100% sure on your locations for the Atmos, I would check the Dolby specs, but I think you should try to get them fore and aft of your main listening position.
 

keithc33

Standard Member
Im pretty sure Future Automation is dealer only. I have had 2 units from them in the past, 1 a projector drop down mount, the other an end of bed TV lift, both units were north of £1k.

Starscape (before getting a bespoke quote) is £300 per square meter from memory for their infinity panels, standard panel size is (2m x 1m) but they do supply as 1m x 1m also + light boxes and tails, so you're looking at 10 panels (20 sq m) at £6k and probably 4 MiniLED light boxes (approx £700 each again from memory). I only needed 3 light boxes in theory, but I had to get StarScape out to look at my install as we had problems with uneven brightness. They fitted an additional light box so we now have 4 and changed some of the Hydra fibre tail splitters to rectify. So you're looking at about £9k odd I would say unless the pricing has changed from when I brought mine a year ago. DIY route will be much cheaper!

Very busy and exciting times for you ahead! :)

Ouch...DIY it is then, maybe slightly smaller also :eek:
 

keithc33

Standard Member
This is the response I just got from Seymour Screens...

Hi Keith-

We actually offer two different types of screen materials. We offer the XD and the UF. If you are sitting 11 feet or closer to the screen material we would recommend the UF and if you are sitting 11 feet or greater we would recommend the XD.

Our screens are based on image width dimensions. Is the 130'' referenced in your email referring to an image diagonal or and image width measurement? The F130 size would have a view-able image width of 130'' inches.

Control4 can control the screen a few different ways. The cheapest and most reliable would to control the screen would be to wire it via relay to the RP60 control box. That would allow for open, close, stop functionality of the screen. We would set the upper and lower limits of the screen travel before it leaves our showroom here. You would need to have a 230v motor and control box as you are located in the United Kingdom.

We could get the image very flat with our side cable tension. Total rough price estimate is near $3000usd.($2500gbp.). To get you an accurate price quote I need to know a few things.

Would you like the F130 (Image diagonal: 141.3'' diagonal image size in 2.35:1 ratio?)
Would this screen case be ceiling or wall mounted?
How much drop is needed from the bottom of the case to where the top of the image would start? (Depends on ceiling height, seating height,image height, and personal preference.)
What color of case would you like? (Black is standard and included in the price of the screen. Other case colors are additional cost.)
What would be your seating distance from screen surface to viewers eyes?
How would you like to control the screen? IR, 12v trigger, relay. (Relay suggested as it operates reliably with Control4 and is cheapest.)
What is your shipping address within the United Kingdom?

Let me know if you have any questions and I will be happy to help.

Regards,

Jon
 

keithc33

Standard Member
Response,,,

Dear Keith,

Thanks for your email.

I take it you've had a look at the Infinity system, but decided to go down the DIY route - either for economy or just for the pleasure of tackling the project yourself?

A 4 x 3 Infinity package with magnetic mounting system retails at £4,136.00, whereas a DIY project to achieve a similar look with the same high star density might be nearer £1,200.00. Scale back the star density and you can reduce costs all the way back to a simple Orion DIY kit at less than £200.00.

As a very rough rule of thumb you're looking at around £1.00 per star for a DIY project, although there are a number of variables which will impact on the final price. These would include where you plan to put the light source relative to the display and what sort of finish you want. For instance, we're happy to sell you the black Melton fabric which we use to face the Infinity panels, or you can just go for a painted finish.

For a DIY approach, my first piece of advice would always be to start by determining the module size for your panels - assuming that you don't have easy access above the ceiling.

So, for a 4 x 3 display you might source some outsize sheets of mdf - 3000 x 2000mm - and do your 4 x 3 display in just two pieces. The downsides here are that larger panels are harder to handle and to negotiate through doors and also that this would preclude the use of the fabric facing.

Failing that, just start with some common or garden 2400 x 1200mm sheets and resize them to 6 equal pieces of 2000 x 1000mm.

You could then use either one or two Infinity mix tails (each 100 mixed diameter fibres) per panel for either 600 or 1200 stars. See this video, if you haven't already watched it.

The components you'd need are priced:

Infinity Panel tail (80x0.5, 14x0.75, 5x1.0, 1x1.5 black jacket) 0
£30.50
Infinity Plasterboard tail 170
£67.50
Carrier tail 1.5m 39
£21.00
Carrier tail 2m 4
£28.00
Carrier tail 2.5m 64
£35.00
Carrier tail 3m 76
£42.00
Carrier tail 3.5m 76
£49.00
Carrier tail 4m 104
£56.00
Carrier tail 5m 207
£70.00
Carrier tail 6m 5
£84.00
Hydra 6 64
£35.00
*Blue cells are stock levels

The first two lines relate to the Infinity mix tails - the fibres which are actually fitted to the panel to create the stars. Panel tails and Plasterboard tails are simply variants of this, at different lengths - 1.6 and 2.5 metres respectively.

Infinity mix tails connect to the light source via the carrier tails and Hydra-6 connectors. Carrier tail is actually a different fibre mix - 69 x 0.75mm - and slightly cheaper than Infinity mix so in all but the smallest projects it makes sense to use a mixture of the two fibre types, rather than to use the Infinity mix exclusively.

For every 6 tails you need a Hydra-6 connector.

So, if you were going for 6 panels, each with 100 stars, you'd use 6 Plasterboard tails and then 6 carrier tails in lengths to suit the distance from the light source to each panel. For 200 stars per panel, use one Plasterboard tail and one Panel tail per panel.

We have had customers who've actually chosen to use the same 1000 x 1000mm module which we use, but our choice was determined largely for ease and economy of packaging and delivery, so this would not normally be my recommendation for a DIY project. Fewer panels means fewer joints.

Light source options start with the MiniLED550 which will do 6 tails, and which is priced at £140.00 in the context of a kit purchase.

I hope this is all clear, but do come back to me if you have any questions. If you'd like be to confirm pricing for a specific configuration I'd need to know where you propose to put the light source.

Best regards,

Peter Fagan
Director
 

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